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As I posted in another thread, I will be overhauling my WRX a bit including doing its 105k service. Is there anything else I should do while I am doing the things on this list? Engine: Replace Camshaft Belt/Water Pump (Pump driven by camshaft belt.) Replace Spark Plugs Replace serpentive belts A/C: Find and repair leak in A/C system, recharge Brakes: Inspect brake system Flush brake lines Simple stuff: Replace Air filter Replace Fuel Filter Change Oil/Filter Change diff fluid to redline lightweight Replace Wiper blades Replace driverside foglight bulb (H3 type) Cosmetic: Replace rear bumper cover Replace Pass. Side front fender Replace inner fender liner (Drivers side front) Suspension: Replace inner and outer tie rods Perform Alignment I am up to about $414 at rock auto, so I figure I might as well keep going. Anything I shouldn't replace aftermarket? All the belts are gates, tie rods are Moog and plugs are NGK platinum.
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May 27, 2011 01:35
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Lord Gaga posted:Suspension: Have you considered a quick refresh with some new and stiffer bushings?
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May 27, 2011 01:46
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Are you on the stock oil pickup tube?
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May 27, 2011 01:50
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PCV valve. I know it's easy on NA's, not sure if it's a pain in the dick on turbo cars. Trans oil? And like Sockington said, bushings. I've done all of them and love it.
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May 27, 2011 01:53
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Slow is Fast posted:PCV valve. I know it's easy on NA's, not sure if it's a pain in the dick on turbo cars.
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May 27, 2011 02:12
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blargle posted:Are you on the stock oil pickup tube? I dont know. Slow is Fast posted:PCV valve. I know it's easy on NA's, not sure if it's a pain in the dick on turbo cars. Trans oil is already lightweight shockproof and man that was the best mod I ever did to my car. I simply could not go into 1st above 3mph, now I can go in at 20 no problems. I couldn't believe it. The onyl other thing as instantly awesome was buying my tactrix. Sockington posted:Have you considered a quick refresh with some new and stiffer bushings? I have not, which bushings should I look at?
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May 27, 2011 02:48
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Lord Gaga posted:I have not, which bushings should I look at? Depends where you want to improve. I started doing bushings due to lack of response from the throttle and braking. Messing around on dirt roads really showed me how unresponsive the car was to fine throttle and braking inputs. I did all the group N mounts, the rear diff mounts, etc, but the magic bullet for fixing that on my car was the trailing arm bushings. TiC's Klunk Killer was where I first started, and it was a good cheap easy start. I did the lat links and trailing arms when I did my drivetrain swap and toasted the stock bushings to get parts out. The lat links are also cool, I definitely notice more lateral rigidity, almost feels like a bigger sway bar out back. I still need to put my steering rack bushings in. It all depends on where you feel you can improve the car and how much you want to spend. Better to know what you want to fix then just buy things to add to your mod list. Poke around on http://turninconcepts.com/index.php and look and read about the stuff. Plus they give you army dudes in your order.
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May 27, 2011 02:56
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I'm not really sure what is next for me as far as mods. Right now I am just trying to get the car back to being fun to drive (this heat is miserable). So far my only mods are Sumitomo HTR ZIIIs (purchased from the sales link in this thread IIRC), Tactrix 2.0, and an open turboback. I have a large eBay intercooler but it doesn't seem to fit properly and, well, effort. EDIT: Also I have stoptech brakes, which are awesome and have both prevented front end accidents and caused rear end ones. (People follow too close) It is my daily driver so I'd really like mods like suspension that make it more fun to drive without eating up reliability or gas mileage. Short shifter and now maybe bushings are probably coming after the general tune up. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 15:24 on May 27, 2011 |
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May 27, 2011 03:06
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c355n4 posted:"Crashed" the impreza at Beaverun. I have to now arrange to get it towed back. Unless someone knows someone near Wampum, PA :x. I hit an embankment and somehow snapped the front right axle at the outer CV Joint and possibly damaged other suspension components there. Just heard back. "The suspension is undamaged and we have a driveshaft on order." Only damage was the driveshaft snapping. Thank god... I'll try to get a picture of the driveshaft from him.
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May 27, 2011 18:17
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c355n4 posted:Just heard back. Great news. My rally service buddies brag about how fast they do halfshaft swaps. You'll be back in business in no time.
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May 27, 2011 19:44
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Slow is Fast posted:Great news. My rally service buddies brag about how fast they do halfshaft swaps. You'll be back in business in no time. You aint trying unless you can change it in 2 minutes. Hell, myy STI managed to change them for me! NOw.... A few weeks ago, I got a CEL and a few kms later the car refused to idle and went into limp home mode. I tried to get codes but made the mistake of leaving the battery disconnected and thence the ECU reset. I have changed hte fuel filter in the meantime just to make sure it wasnt blocked. The car threw a CEL this week but the stumbling idle and then the limp mode waited till Friday evening to return. So thins time I did not disconnect the battery and grabbed a ECU reader - however the engine, even while clearly not running well, high idle and almost no response to the throttle - no codes at all! This evening we put a datalogger on it and found the timing was going nuts and leaping everywhere with the knock sensor also going overtime. Put the same datalogger on Miss Jess car and definatly had none the above - so we established the datalogger is good and we have two very different readings from basically similar cars. Really confused why if the car is knocking there's no codes beign thrown. I cant even imagine why a standard car would even be getting knock so there is most likely some sensor failing. Oh, the car also this evening was nto in limp home so...... odd. Very odd. I would have thought with the ECU clearly seeing somehthing up it would have registered codes. Any ideas?
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May 28, 2011 14:09
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Get a Tactrix and do some real logging?
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May 28, 2011 17:42
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Wrar posted:Get a Tactrix and do some real logging? We even have the pretty graphs and .csv files. Unfortunatly whatever is going on is being missed.
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May 29, 2011 00:49
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Exorcism time.
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May 29, 2011 03:46
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c355n4 posted:Exorcism time. Actually considered. Also considering the possibility I have a timing belt threatening to give way - while it's just touched 100,000 km it's also close to 6 years old. There's also crank angle sensor and alternator or just an old fashioned plug not correctly seated. So unless someone has a good idea, it's basically replace everything until we find it. I'm kinda hoping someone has a good idea, unknown problem hunting aint fun
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May 29, 2011 04:15
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If it's knocking at low load, I wouldn't be surprised if one of the coilpacks are loose. I'd imagine that would be registering a code though. Around here we generally replace the t-belt at 90k km as we've had some high profile failures well before 100k, leave alone the Subaru recommended service interval. Is the car tuned? Sometimes you can "turn off" the misfire/etc codes (with Cobb or RomRaider), which still throws a CEL but no code will be returned by a code reader. I'm assuming this is your 06 WRX, though, which would mean stock tune. You replaced the fuel filter, but that doesn't necessarily mean the pump is good, either. I dunno if there's a way to bench test it. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:46 on May 29, 2011 |
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May 29, 2011 04:41
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Ruled out everything simple like ignition leads and plugs?
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May 29, 2011 04:54
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Seat Safety Switch posted:If it's knocking at low load, I wouldn't be surprised if one of the coilpacks are loose. I'd imagine that would be registering a code though. Around here we generally replace the t-belt at 90k km as we've had some high profile failures well before 100k, leave alone the Subaru recommended service interval. Well I did change the plugs not long ago. No tune, just standard. THe plot thckens tho, I just removed the belt shield and the MAP, checked the filter and fired it back up - are these cars supposed to work without a MAP sensor connected?? Plus, when I had the whole lot back together it's distinclty quieter and runnign better. I did reset the ECU but it was still running at that point. It does get worse when the ambient temperature is warmer. I'm starting to think something just plain loose altho that's just wishful thinking.
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May 29, 2011 05:55
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I'm pretty sure the WRX has a MAF sensor, not a MAP one. Have you tried cleaning it yet? I had weird idle problems with mine when I first got it, and while cleaning the MAF a dead mosquito fell out. I think it should be able to run without the MAF but I'm not sure how well.
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May 29, 2011 06:16
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm pretty sure the WRX has a MAF sensor, not a MAP one. Have you tried cleaning it yet? I had weird idle problems with mine when I first got it, and while cleaning the MAF a dead mosquito fell out. Speaking of cleaning maf's, got my car back from the tuner on friday. Running just fine again after a re-tune. So new rule: Getting a tune? CLEAN YOUR MAF FIRST
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May 29, 2011 08:05
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We found it - by an unusal process of elimination "So what sensors DONT the datalogger have codes defined for?" And then we realised the datalogger was pulling codes for a pre 06 WRX and had no code defined for the electronic throttle. Pull plug.... hey relicated issue! Pull plug on my partner's 07 - hey now it's doing the same thing! So the electronic throttle has failed. That sounds expensive. Also saw oil in the intercooler. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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May 29, 2011 08:50
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Cat Terrist posted:Also saw oil in the intercooler. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
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May 29, 2011 09:02
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nm posted:Don't all 2.5 turbos do this regardless of problems? Not a lot, but an oil coat is pretty normal. Do they? I dont know. It wasnt like a huge amount so it's not something I'll stay up worrying about. Besides I think replacement TD04's are cheaper than repalcement throttles x_X
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May 29, 2011 09:06
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nm posted:Don't all 2.5 turbos do this regardless of problems? Not a lot, but an oil coat is pretty normal. Yep they all do. Not unusual to see a 2.5T with less than 5000kms and have oil in the cooler pipes.
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May 29, 2011 09:38
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ChunksNensja posted:Yep they all do. Not unusual to see a 2.5T with less than 5000kms and have oil in the cooler pipes. Neato then, dont need to worry. Where the hell I'm going to get the throttle replacement fromw with being reamed is a better question now, cant imagine OEM would be cheap
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May 29, 2011 10:10
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My 06 pisses a fair bit of oil into the intercooler and throttle area so it's not much to worry about, as others have said. Don't you guys have proto-teenagers who occasionally crash their high-output Subarus into fixed obstacles at the side of the road? The TB should be far enough back that it will not be affected by a tree or ditch crash. It should even be cheap for a full-service yard to pull. edit: I believe there are also cable throttle conversion kits, which may be to your taste. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 12:39 on May 29, 2011 |
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May 29, 2011 12:35
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Cat Terrist posted:Neato then, dont need to worry. Where the hell I'm going to get the throttle replacement fromw with being reamed is a better question now, cant imagine OEM would be cheap Has the car had a flat battery or had it disconnected recently before the code showed up? These cars tend to have a shitfit when the ECU registers low voltage and throws code P0670 which is for the electronic throttle system. Even though there is nothing wrong the ecu tends to go nuts and start loving with the throttle system until the code is cleared. If the code is genuinely for a throttle system fault it could be that the relay for the electronic throttle is sticking. Just a possibility as i've never seen a throttlebody need to be replaced before.
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May 29, 2011 12:40
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I'd like to thank the guys that told me not to buy that RS earlier. The one with the NA motor with a turbo strapped to it. The woman my friend sold it to emailed him saying she only got 100 miles out of it before a piston ring cracked (or something like that, I can't remember the specifics).
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May 29, 2011 15:44
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Yakattak posted:I'd like to thank the guys that told me not to buy that RS earlier. The one with the NA motor with a turbo strapped to it. The woman my friend sold it to emailed him saying she only got 100 miles out of it before a piston ring cracked (or something like that, I can't remember the specifics). With the shadiness he was giving you for that car, I don't think you should call him a friend.
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May 29, 2011 16:29
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kimbo305 posted:With the shadiness he was giving you for that car, I don't think you should call him a friend. I'm just going to hope he wasn't educated enough about it to know.
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May 30, 2011 01:16
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I'm having some transmission noise shifting into 1st and 3rd on my 2000 OBW 5-speed and I've heard good things about the transmission cocktail from http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=31&products_id=76 Anybody have input? I don't have the time or money to replace the synchros and won't for a little while, everybody seems to think this will either solve most problems or stave off repair for quite a while.
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May 30, 2011 10:15
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Just get the OEM Super S
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May 30, 2011 19:30
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Amandyke posted:Just get the OEM Super S Agreed. A number of those cocktails have been shown to increase wear anyhow.
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May 30, 2011 21:20
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nm posted:Agreed. A number of those cocktails have been shown to increase wear anyhow. Thirded. Get the OEM subaru super special smurf blood. From what I read on the "uncle scotty's cocktail" thread. It's about half and half. Some say it's the greatest thing in the world, others say it goes bad and wears your gears. I'm in the camp of redline or extra S, otherwise cheap junk if you dont care.
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May 30, 2011 23:02
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nm posted:Don't all 2.5 turbos do this regardless of problems? Not a lot, but an oil coat is pretty normal. It seems like most turbo cars do this but within each community they pretend it's some unique thing. I know VW/Audis are expected to have a tablespoon or so of oil in the intercooler (mine has more as it's an overachiever).
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May 30, 2011 23:25
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Well, the 01 Forester was dripping Oil from the head gaskets and generally running like crap, so it was time to bit the bullet. My son and I took the plunge and decided to do them in the garage. He's going to college to be a mechanic, and convinced me that he could take on the job. First need to get the land yacht out of the way.  The parts: Intake Gaskets, Valve Cover Gaskets, Exhaust Manifold Gaskets, Hose Clamps, Valve Cover Bolt Gaskets, Radiator Hose Clamps, Exhaust Bolts and springs, Head Gaskets, Timing Belt, Spark Plug gaskets things, Timing Belt Tensioner, O-ring that goes behind it, a thermostat. Total Cost: I have no idea, and will probably never know since my wife is the office manager at the local Subaru dealer and she deals with these things somehow. In the background is a weedwacker that died a smoking death on Saturday, (they don't like start fluid) Some old tires, and a dented fender that is now an experimenting board for my Cut and Buffing experiments. Also, some old tires that my son uses to bring home Subaru engines that he collects. Not pictured because they were forgotten on the first parts run, Antifreeze, spark plugs, and some 1 inch clamps.  Tools! Stuff we used: Bungie Cords (3), Coffee, Snap On deep sockets, and a fancy tool for getting the crank pully off that we borrowed. Stuff we forget on the first run, a fancy funnel for antifreeze, the breaker bar is around somewhere, a scotchbrite pad for the heads, and a whizz wheel to to clean off the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.  You don't need this crank pulley tool, but it's pretty handy and makes it easier.  I'm not normally a Subaru guy as old Cadillacs are my thing. I thought this was a neat trick to prop the hood up higher. I'm sure 99 out of 100 people know this, but here it is: You can put the prop on the strut tower to move the hood out of your way.  Airbox removed. My son explained to me that the long penis looking thing at the end (not pictured) reduces the noise from the intake.  I had drained the oil before my son (pictured) got there. He wasn't happy with the mess I left on the cardboard.  Draining the coolant into a cheapo walmart storage container.  The spark plug seals were pretty bad, as you can see.  Radiator has to come out. Look at all that space!   My son assures me that this is how the pros do it at the dealer. 4 Bungie cords hold everything out of the way.  Looks like I'm not the only one who likes my Forester. Acorns and a mice nest.  If you don't have that fancy tool, just setup a breaker bar and give the engine a couple of quick clicks to losing the bolt. The engine spins the bolt loose. Make sure you cut off the fuel first though. We didn't have to do this since we had fancy dealer tools, but it's a good tip I thought I would pass along.  The old timing belt. SOHC is a lot easier! Just get some leverage on that that tensioner and stick in a nail or a grenade ping to hold it up.  Exhaust out.  Now this is where we take the nuts off the motor mounts. Then we jack up the engine Just high enough to stick a socket under one side. This sets the engine aa nice angle so we can remove the head bolts. If you jack up the engine too high you can pop the boots off the CV joints, but you just slip them back on if that happens.  See how it's higher on the right side? You can fit a torque wrench in no problem.  First head off.  Scotchbrite pad where the headgasket goes, Whizz wheel the intake and exhaust manifold gaskets.  Here is a picture of me doing something almost useful. Probably spark plugs.  Both head gaskets replaced, and the new timing belt in. We made sure all three marks are lined up, then we screwed it up, then we fixed it.  Then it's just put poo poo back together, add oil and coolant. We borrowed this funnel from one of the techs. You just overfill the coolant so its halfway up and let the engine run for 30 minutes to get the bubbles out. Once it's done, just stick the stopper in and take it out. It's pretty neat.   And that's the adventure. This was the first time my son or I had ever done anything involving taking off heads and putting them back on. He's just finished his first year at tech school, and he's already working at the dealership learning all kinds of stuff. Best of of the whole day was that moment when I realized that my son has surpassed my automotive skills, and that made be a very proud parent. Maybe I'll buy him an SA account or something...
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May 31, 2011 02:08
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Shoot you already had an impact gun sitting right there. That would have zipped that crank bolt right off without spinning the engine or anything. That always seems to be the safest and easiest way of removing those as long as you can get it on there somehow.
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May 31, 2011 02:20
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Lowclock posted:Shoot you already had an impact gun sitting right there. That would have zipped that crank bolt right off without spinning the engine or anything. That always seems to be the safest and easiest way of removing those as long as you can get it on there somehow. Not enough space unfortunately, but yea that's the best way to do it if you pull the engine.
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May 31, 2011 02:25
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Could someone tell me precisely what tools I'll need to replace the front brake pads and a wheel stud on a 93 Impreza? apart from sockets and a hammer that is...
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May 31, 2011 03:45
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ChunksNensja posted:Has the car had a flat battery or had it disconnected recently before the code showed up? These cars tend to have a shitfit when the ECU registers low voltage and throws code P0670 which is for the electronic throttle system. Even though there is nothing wrong the ecu tends to go nuts and start loving with the throttle system until the code is cleared. If the code is genuinely for a throttle system fault it could be that the relay for the electronic throttle is sticking. Where is that relay located? Changing the throttle did make a difference but the main issue is still there.
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May 31, 2011 12:10
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