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I have a couple really basic questions. I am slowly redoing a basement bathroom and will probably get a real plumber in to do the high-pressure water part (though feel free to convince me otherwise). I have a 2-piece shower drain for a molded shower: http://www.osb.ca/products/Product-Detail.php?cat=64&productid=SD35 It has only one gasket and a cardboard-looking gasket. What order do I put these onto the shower (ie: rubber gasket on top or bottom of base of shower?) The top part screws into the bottom part which presumably is cemented to the ABS drain (the instructions say that much at least). Should the cementing be done before assembling the drain to the shower or after?
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May 26, 2011 04:05
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bssoil posted:I have a couple really basic questions. I am slowly redoing a basement bathroom and will probably get a real plumber in to do the high-pressure water part (though feel free to convince me otherwise). I have a 2-piece shower drain for a molded shower: It depends , i can't really see that to well. Can you give me a picture of the gasket itself? Or a better picture of the shower drain itself. Usuaally the rubber gasket goes between the bottom of the shower and the pan. Then you put the cardboard washer on (its a friction washer). And then put the nut on. Also put putty on the topside between the shower and drain to keep poo poo from getting in there.
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May 26, 2011 16:51
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It looks pretty much identical to what is shown here: http://www.bmicanada.com/products/bmi_specs_2pc_shower_drains.pdf I am tempted to follow that protocol, but I am not 100% sure if that is a good idea. On the actual shower there is a bit of a dip where the drain will sit and it looks like water would tend to puddle there, which according to those instructions is why you don't use putty.
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May 26, 2011 17:37
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bssoil posted:It looks pretty much identical to what is shown here: Why would putty keep the water from pooling anywhere? Its such a thing layer it would only raise the drain up like 1/16th of an inch. You can also sillicone it if you want. This shower isnt going on a concrete floor is it?
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May 26, 2011 17:52
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:This shower isnt going on a concrete floor is it?
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May 26, 2011 19:00
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bssoil posted:That was the plan, is that bad? I know I need to level it. Here is a video of how they work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q26twSvvhL8&feature=relmfu
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May 26, 2011 19:51
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What type of boot/flashing do you use to put a vent through a flat rubber roof?
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May 27, 2011 19:20
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Hillridge posted:What type of boot/flashing do you use to put a vent through a flat rubber roof? A Decktight rubber flashing like this. You have to cut to fit. Always cut it a little smaller since you want it to be a tight fit. They usually come with a size gauge to show where to cut. 
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May 27, 2011 19:51
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I hope this an appropriate thread for random questions. The hot water in the house is noisy when it is used, there is a sort of pulsing of water that can be heard from the roof water tank full of cold water. Whenever the hot water is used instead of the sound of cold water gradually refilling at the same rate as hot water coming out of the tap the cold water will suddenly come on and off with quite a bit of noise. The floating valve thing has been replaced but it has not helped. This is not my video but I found it on youtube and it resembles the problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E6gGasCDzMI Is this a common problem, and what sort of solutions are there? It never used to do this, it randomly started being noisy like this sometime last year.
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May 28, 2011 15:36
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FlyingDodo posted:I hope this an appropriate thread for random questions. The hot water in the house is noisy when it is used, there is a sort of pulsing of water that can be heard from the roof water tank full of cold water. Whenever the hot water is used instead of the sound of cold water gradually refilling at the same rate as hot water coming out of the tap the cold water will suddenly come on and off with quite a bit of noise. The floating valve thing has been replaced but it has not helped. I am not certain for sure. Anyone else know?
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May 29, 2011 07:22
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:That type of drain makes it a bitch to install the pan. If you get the type of drain that attaches to the pan then you slide the pan over the already glued in pipe . They have a rubber washer that is long that goes between the drain and the pipe. Then a metal nut screws inside of the drain to seal the the rubber around the drain.
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May 29, 2011 17:22
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bssoil posted:Thanks for the advice. I'm going to go ask re: a better drain at a plumber shop, and might even give Home Depot or Lowes a shot, and see what they say. Ya because homedepot or lowes is full of knowledgeable people. The plumbing supply house may help but most of them have never installed them. The one I gave you is your best way to do it. If you did it with the drain you had, you'd have to cut that pipe perfect and glue to the drain while setting the pan. If that pan ever had issue or you have a slight leak you will have to either cut the pan out or find a way to cut out the drain.
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May 30, 2011 05:39
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Ya because homedepot or lowes is full of knowledgeable people. The plumbing supply house may help but most of them have never installed them. The one I gave you is your best way to do it. If you did it with the drain you had, you'd have to cut that pipe perfect and glue to the drain while setting the pan. If that pan ever had issue or you have a slight leak you will have to either cut the pan out or find a way to cut out the drain. Do you have any recommended brands or models?
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May 31, 2011 17:54
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bssoil posted:Yep that's what I figured from the guy at Lowe's. He said that the drain I have is the drain he would use and then went on to tell me how precise (and difficult, I gathered) the installation would have to be. He said the pipe from the trap is usually dry fitted but I can't pull mine out so I'm going to leave it. He did not recommend any alternatives, but I trust you over some dude at lowes, even though you're just some dude on the internet. He talked like he was a plumber, but why would a plumber be working at lowes??? Sometimes plumbesr who can't find work do work at lowes , most times its just a handyman who thinks he knows the gently caress hes talking about. And to dry fit any pipe is jsut stupid. Slowly when that pipe leaks (you wont really know if it does or not) it will erode the dirt under your shower and over time could compromise the slab and foundation. For brands Oatey makes an UPC approved drain. Basically any drain like the one in that video that lets you seal the drain once the pain is in place will be fine.
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May 31, 2011 18:19
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We are looking to build a break-room in my computer repair shop and would like to put a kitchen sink in it. However, the drain is on the opposite side of the room we are planning to convert to the break room. The shop is on a concrete slab and the only drain any of us know about is on the opposite side of the building by the existing bathroom. The room is across a hallway from the only drain, so going through an interior wall is out. We would prefer to not have to cut through the slab to run a new line if we don't have to. Does something exist that can pump everything up and run a drain line through the attic and then tie in to the existing drain on the other side of the building?
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Jun 1, 2011 02:22
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:A Decktight rubber flashing like this. You have to cut to fit. Always cut it a little smaller since you want it to be a tight fit. They usually come with a size gauge to show where to cut. I got one of these of the peel and stick variety, but it has no instructions with it. Do I absolutely need EPDM primer to adhere it, or do I just need to clean the roof really well before sticking it down and using a roller to smush it to the roof? I'm hoping the latter, because no one seems to sell primer in less than a $35 gallon jug.
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Jun 1, 2011 03:01
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OK, so this problem is already fixed, and I probably know the answer (half-rear end home builder), but this puzzles me. Our original kitchen sink in the house we just bought goes down to the trap as 1 1/2 inch, normal. On the other side of the under-sink cabinet from the trap, it comes out of the slab as a 3" pipe, with a 3x3x2 tee, and a threaded plug on top. The 2" tee shoots over, converts to 1 1/2", and catches the trap. I know it's mostly lazy plumbing (they just randomly stabbed the hot and cold PEX lines coming out of the floor in the middle of the cabinet too), but what the hell is the 3" line out of the slab for? Isn't that kinda excessive for a kitchen sink drain?
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Jun 1, 2011 03:54
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Hillridge posted:I got one of these of the peel and stick variety, but it has no instructions with it. Do I absolutely need EPDM primer to adhere it, or do I just need to clean the roof really well before sticking it down and using a roller to smush it to the roof? I'm hoping the latter, because no one seems to sell primer in less than a $35 gallon jug. Honestly I have never put one down other then on metal roofs. I imagine if you got another type of cleaner to clean the rubber you would be fine. The primer is just there to clean the surface so the glue can adhere to it. Maniaman posted:We are looking to build a break-room in my computer repair shop and would like to put a kitchen sink in it. However, the drain is on the opposite side of the room we are planning to convert to the break room. The shop is on a concrete slab and the only drain any of us know about is on the opposite side of the building by the existing bathroom. The room is across a hallway from the only drain, so going through an interior wall is out. We would prefer to not have to cut through the slab to run a new line if we don't have to. Does something exist that can pump everything up and run a drain line through the attic and then tie in to the existing drain on the other side of the building? You have a couple options. You can run an exterior wall with a drain , grading it at a 1/4 per foot. But its unlikely that you'd be able to grade it properly by the time you got it there. You could find a sump pump that could handle the pressure of pumping up into the Attic. If you know where the sewer is located outside you can trench around your building also.
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Jun 1, 2011 04:00
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GD_American posted:OK, so this problem is already fixed, and I probably know the answer (half-rear end home builder), but this puzzles me. It could be used as an end of the line clean out. If you kitchen sink is the furthest from the sewer you need a clean out that allows you to access the largest pipe in the house (3 inch, sometimes 4, depending on how many bathrooms you have and state code) This way if a plumber needed too they could snake out the entire 3 inch line from that plug. Not saying it would be fun to do and they should have put it in the floor somewhere. But it is what they did.
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Jun 1, 2011 04:05
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That makes more sense, since the only other thing I could figure was that they switched floor plans after pouring the slab and it was supposed to be a toilet. But true to form, if that was their intent then they hosed up, because the plug was about 1" under the dang bottom of the sink so you'd have to remove the entire sink to use it as a clean-out. Plus the second bathroom is further back from the macerator pump -> sewage line. Plus the way they piped it you couldn't use barely any of the under cabinet. Par for the course with what I'm discovering weekly in this house.
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Jun 1, 2011 04:30
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GD_American posted:That makes more sense, since the only other thing I could figure was that they switched floor plans after pouring the slab and it was supposed to be a toilet. So I take it this is a new house? It could have been been plumbed just retard. The plumber could have through he needed that 3 inch stack for something upstairs and it turned into a cluster gently caress.
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Jun 1, 2011 04:32
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Well it's new to me, but it was built in 2007. Apparently the builder had money troubles, never finished the subdivision and sold the remainder to another builder who is slowly finishing it. There's nothing really money pit about the house, and it's a weird but great layout, but there's definitely small craftsmanship issues all over. Some that are normal nowadays with rush construction, some that are pretty unforgivable. I'm finding them continuously. Also since this is the plumbing thread let me state that the American Standard Champion 4 rules, and all other shitters drool
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Jun 1, 2011 04:37
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GD_American posted:Well it's new to me, but it was built in 2007. Apparently the builder had money troubles, never finished the subdivision and sold the remainder to another builder who is slowly finishing it. The only other reason that 3 inch was run to the kitchen sink was to meet cross section of the house. Do you only have one other bathroom? I've installed and used a champ 4 and yes they are a badass toilet. I actually prefer the Cadet 3 by american standard. Its half the price and ive yet to clog mine. I've heard from my boss that the champ 4 has some insane warranty where it shouldn't ever clog. But I haven't researched it so don't quote me on that. And really no one should be flushing random poo poo down a toilet.
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Jun 1, 2011 04:54
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Well I don't even flush paper towels since I know that macerator is the weak link in my system. But it's nice to know that I finally own a toilet that can finally stand up to my intestinal output. As for the bathrooms, I have a master bath in one corner of the house (NE), the second bath in virtually the exact opposite corner (SW), the sewage line is on the east side to the street, and the kitchen sink is virtually dead center in the house.
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Jun 1, 2011 04:59
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GD_American posted:Well I don't even flush paper towels since I know that macerator is the weak link in my system. But it's nice to know that I finally own a toilet that can finally stand up to my intestinal output. Well technically to meet the cross sectional of a vent. If you have a 4 inch under your house You'd need a 3 inch vent and two 2 inch vents. But you wouldn't take a 3 inch vent out a kitchen because well that is stupid. And kitchens usually don't have a 2x6 wall to run a 3 inch in. Also speaking of the macerator pump. Dont let your wife flush a tampon. I know not all woman do this but specially with that pump. It can cause issues with the string.
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Jun 1, 2011 05:09
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Maniaman posted:We are looking to build a break-room in my computer repair shop and would like to put a kitchen sink in it. However, the drain is on the opposite side of the room we are planning to convert to the break room. The shop is on a concrete slab and the only drain any of us know about is on the opposite side of the building by the existing bathroom. The room is across a hallway from the only drain, so going through an interior wall is out. We would prefer to not have to cut through the slab to run a new line if we don't have to. Does something exist that can pump everything up and run a drain line through the attic and then tie in to the existing drain on the other side of the building? Sure. We've got the same thing going on in our office. I solved it with one of these. It's been in almost a year and its been working great.
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Jun 1, 2011 15:40
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Motronic posted:Sure. We've got the same thing going on in our office. I solved it with one of these. It's been in almost a year and its been working great. Wow that is pretty impressive that it can pump 19 feet vertical.
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Jun 1, 2011 17:14
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wow that is pretty impressive that it can pump 19 feet vertical. Yeah..the pump that comes with that kit is a beast. We use the same ones at the local fire department (without the floats) for pumping basements after floods. We've had the same 5 of them through the last 3 floods (plus miscellaneous other events). It's amazing some of the crap they pass through them and keep on going. Each must have at least 200 very hard hours on them at this point and they pump like new.
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Jun 4, 2011 20:13
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I've got a probably with my toilet, and I'm trying to identify what the exact issue is. Currently, when I flush the toilet it flushes normally, except the water level raises a couple of inches, and then takes about a minute to return to the normal level. Then the toilet starts glugging and the water level drops a couple of inches below normal. Last week the toilet was blocked completely, and I had a plumber out who identified a clog quite far into the drain, which he said was just years of build up, but that's now been cleared. Any ideas what could be the cause of the problem? I've googled it, and the most common result is a blocked vent pipe, but I got the impression it would cause problems with other parts of my house as well.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:12
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Brown Moses posted:I've got a probably with my toilet, and I'm trying to identify what the exact issue is. Currently, when I flush the toilet it flushes normally, except the water level raises a couple of inches, and then takes about a minute to return to the normal level. Then the toilet starts glugging and the water level drops a couple of inches below normal. There could be something in the toilet too. Does it do it with just flushing water or only if you flush toilet paper? If it does it with water too it could be a clogged vent pipe. And depending how the bathroom was plumbed the toilet may have a separate vent. You can try and get on the roof and run a snake down it.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:25
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It does it with water as well. Is it worth investigating the u-bend first, or will it almost certaintly by the vent pipe?
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Jun 9, 2011 16:32
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Brown Moses posted:It does it with water as well. Is it worth investigating the u-bend first, or will it almost certaintly by the vent pipe? Well if it was something in the P Trap of the toilet and it was backing up on only water it most likely wouldnt flush a solid at all. How long ago did you have a plumber out there? You can pull the toilet and put a decent amount of water in the toilet drain and see how it acts. If its gurgles then you know its not the toilet but the drain itself.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:48
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I had the plumber around last week, he rodded the drains all the way down to the sewer cover about 20 feet away to make sure it was clear. The main problem was the previous owners seem to have renovated the house and covered up the drain access close to the toilet, so he had to crack open the pipe, rod the blockage, and put a new one in. It's also on the ground floor, so it literally just comes out the back wall, then straight into the drain. I've been avoiding flushing anything too solid, just in case it really backed up, but the toilet paper all seems to be going eventually, but because the flow isn't too strong it doesn't always get washed away.
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Jun 9, 2011 17:00
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Brown Moses posted:I had the plumber around last week, he rodded the drains all the way down to the sewer cover about 20 feet away to make sure it was clear. The main problem was the previous owners seem to have renovated the house and covered up the drain access close to the toilet, so he had to crack open the pipe, rod the blockage, and put a new one in. It's also on the ground floor, so it literally just comes out the back wall, then straight into the drain. It could be the toilet itself. Older toilets dont really have the energy to flush quickly and sometimes they can back up. I suggest trying a toilet paper flush and see how it does. Did the toilet always do it or did it just start recently?
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Jun 9, 2011 17:15
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Its only started to glug recently, but it might have been draining poorly before and we've only just noticed because we are more aware after it got blocked. Once or twice the water level went really high, then drained, but that could have been caused by toilet paper not flushing away properly and blocking it a bit. I also poured a full bucket of water down it to see if a weak flush was an issue, but it drained in the same way.
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Jun 9, 2011 17:26
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Brown Moses posted:Its only started to glug recently, but it might have been draining poorly before and we've only just noticed because we are more aware after it got blocked. Once or twice the water level went really high, then drained, but that could have been caused by toilet paper not flushing away properly and blocking it a bit. I'd call up the plumber and tell him the issue came back. it shouldnt have came back this quick if he snaked through it. he may have no got it all the way.
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Jun 9, 2011 21:56
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Thanks for the advice, I'll get him back in to take another look.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:03
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Brown Moses posted:Thanks for the advice, I'll get him back in to take another look. If you play your cards right it should be his fault for not fixing it the first time so having him back out hopefully will be free.
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Jun 10, 2011 17:03
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By the way I've worked at a specialty plumbing retailer for the last 3 years so maybe I could help out with a couple of these basic questions as well. Just saying hello.
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Jun 15, 2011 02:19
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el samuel posted:By the way I've worked at a specialty plumbing retailer for the last 3 years so maybe I could help out with a couple of these basic questions as well. Just saying hello. Go right ahead, it wont bug me.
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Jun 15, 2011 02:21
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