|
Great Beer posted:How worthless is a car with a salvage title? My El Camino took some hail damage last month and the insurance company is offering to either let me keep the car with a salvage title, or take an extra 2k and they take it and most likely scrap it. Id rather not let them have it, since its new engine/transmission have less than 1000 miles on them but I was planning on selling it some day anyway. Define "an extra 2k." Is this 2k over the repair cost? If so, what's the repair cost?
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 00:21
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 16:23 |
|
|
Great Beer posted:How worthless is a car with a salvage title? My El Camino took some hail damage last month and the insurance company is offering to either let me keep the car with a salvage title, or take an extra 2k and they take it and most likely scrap it. Id rather not let them have it, since its new engine/transmission have less than 1000 miles on them but I was planning on selling it some day anyway. Where would you place this car on a scale of "barely running rusty old shitheap" to "concours quality restoration" prior to the hail? What year is it? At any rate, if you do end up getting a salvage title on it, make sure you take tons of pics of the damage prior to fixing it and save them somewhere. That way, when you go to sell it, you have a record of the cause for salvage to let the buyer know exactly what he's getting into. I personally would look at a salvage title car if I knew that it was only cosmetic hail damage or a rebuilt theft recovery or something, vs. flood damage or a reconstructed severe wreck.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 00:36
|
|
|
This is a completely and honestly retarded question. I have an 01 S2000 with 69000 on the odometer. I've done regular oil changes on it myself. I have no idea when my differential has been serviced, but I know it has not been since I bought it in late 09. It's going to need new brakes as well. ANYHOW, I'm currently on TDY in Fort Leonard Wood so I can't really get around doing things for myself, so I'm considering taking it to the Firestone Autocare (I generally don't really go for these places but I have a couple of long trips ahead of me) and I'm scheduling an appointment with them more than likely, since even if I wanted to I can't make it to a dealership (ecck) even if I wanted to on a weekday. Anyhow they have all these options and most of them sound like a an excuse to part me from money: Complete Vehicle Inspection Oil and Filter Change Manufacturer Scheduled Maintenance Flush Coolant/Radiator Air Conditioning Service Flush Brake Fluid Change Transmission Fluid Brakes Engine Tune-Up Battery/Charging Belts/Hoses Tire Replacement Balancing Shocks/Struts Alignment Tire Repair Tire Rotation Wiper Blades thinking of going with the tune up but I think thats just new spark plugs, brakes, and oil and filter. I'm not sure if they even will do the diff. Again I know how to do this poo poo on my own (sans brakes) but I just want to know what kind of rear end loving I'm going to get from these guys. Like wiper blades...who loving pays for that?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 01:32
|
|
|
Edit: NM
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 02:31
|
|
|
Hillary Clintons Thong posted:I have no idea when my differential has been serviced, Complete Vehicle Inspection Oil and Filter Change (should be done, duh) Manufacturer Scheduled Maintenance (60k service?) Flush Coolant/Radiator (when was the last time you did this?) Air Conditioning Service (WTF is this?) Flush Brake Fluid (have you done this in the past 2 years?) Change Transmission Fluid (60k service) Brakes Engine Tune-Up (WTF is this?) Battery/Charging (probably same thing you could get free at autozone) Belts/Hoses (gonna look at them and see if they need replacing, them rape you for replacing them) Tire Replacement (are your tires <= 2/32"?) Balancing (recommended every 6k) Shocks/Struts (probably gonna bounce the car, then recommend replacement for rape) Alignment (good to have done every once and a while) Tire Repair Tire Rotation Wiper Blades
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 02:36
|
|
|
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/05/31/2011-volkswagen-jetta-tdi-joins-autoblogs-long-term-garage/#continued I'm sort of confused by this article and was hoping that you guys could clear something up. The author says that his 2010 Jetta had an unseen oil leak, which ended up seizing the engine/turbo. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't there be some sort of provision for warning the driver well before the oil gets to such critical levels? My Volvo starts to harass me as soon as my wiper fluid gets low, did the Volkswagen seriously not warn the driver that he was on the verge of destroying his engine?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 02:40
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:probably at 30k. Should be serviced again (gear oil changed) at 60k Ugh I need a bunch of this stuff and I know they're going to rake me over the coals but man. Tires should be a good, waiting to get some summers off of tirerack. Looked up what firestone called a tuneup and is just sparkplugs, haha. Oh well we will see what I'm quoted beyond the loving oil change I guess. Just places like this make me paranoid about poo poo and after watching that thing about jiffy lube I just am loathe to go there but I don't know what my other options are around here.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 02:48
|
|
|
Black88GTA posted:Where would you place this car on a scale of "barely running rusty old shitheap" to "concours quality restoration" prior to the hail? What year is it? Its a 1986 model. If rustheap was 0 and restoration was 10, its probably about a 6. Ive had it since high school (7 years now) and loved it as much as a man can love a car (barring creepy territory) but its not going to be winning any awards. Motronic posted:Define "an extra 2k." Is this 2k over the repair cost? If so, what's the repair cost? The repair cost was 6800, thanks to just about every body panel being damaged. The glass was all OK at least.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 02:55
|
|
|
Augmented Dickey posted:http://www.autoblog.com/2011/05/31/2011-volkswagen-jetta-tdi-joins-autoblogs-long-term-garage/#continued Even on my (old rear end) 95 VW it has 2 warning systems for low oil pressure. One for idling and a separate system that warns you if the oil pressure is low above 2500rpms. Not to mention a built in oil temp with a display on the dash. I can't imagine a brand new one not having at LEAST those systems if not with the addition of a low level warning system.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 02:57
|
|
|
Augmented Dickey posted:http://www.autoblog.com/2011/05/31/2011-volkswagen-jetta-tdi-joins-autoblogs-long-term-garage/#continued This reminds me of a post in the mechanical disasters thread where the owner of the car said the oil light came on and he pulled over right away, when the tow truck driver heard that story he laughed because the owner told him that the oil light came on and he drove for another 45 minutes. Boy was that engine hosed. Maybe the oil pressure sensor was bad and never lit the light? Has to be something like that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 03:27
|
|
|
heat posted:This reminds me of a post in the mechanical disasters thread where the owner of the car said the oil light came on and he pulled over right away, when the tow truck driver heard that story he laughed because the owner told him that the oil light came on and he drove for another 45 minutes. Boy was that engine hosed. My neighbors were driving their newish (06, I think) Aveo with what I could best describe as a 'severely oil starved' knock for weeks. I didn't think anything at first because the guy across the street has a rather obnoxious diesel that he loves to tinker on (and break). When I was able to find that it was not only showing a nice bright MIL, but a flashing one, welp.. It's been gone for about 3 weeks now. Wonder if they just had it towed away. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 03:30
|
|
|
Great Beer posted:The repair cost was 6800, thanks to just about every body panel being damaged. The glass was all OK at least. So you can walk away with a check for almost 9 grand? Jesus H christ man, do it. It's am 86 El Camino in average condition. Unless this is some weird emotional attachment. In that case, take the $6800 bucks in repair money, do your shopping well, do whatever prep work you can, turn it into a 10 with that cash, and be a happy man. Based on the fact that you are even asking this question, it seems like you are leaning towards some version of the latter and shopping for permission. You have my permission. But I require before and after pictures.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 03:37
|
|
|
Crossposting this from the BMW thread in the hope of getting more answers: Car is a 99 e46 328i with 172k. So I have a slight honking noise on the first bit of throttle. It can be in nuetral, with the belts off and it still does it. Its definitely something in the intake area, when its grabbing that first rush of air, but I have no idea what it could be. Anyone ever heard of this? Its like a small goose is in my air filter. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsTIkT-Ntjc E- Answered, its the Oil separator/CCV Deceptor101 fucked around with this message at 04:35 on Jun 2, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 03:51
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:Crossposting this from the BMW thread in the hope of getting more answers: That is the most hilarious thing I've heard in a long time. I really don't see what the problem is. Leave it. Alternately, it really sounds like there is a tear in the snorkel. I suppose you could look for that if you really feel the need to fix it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 04:23
|
|
|
Hillary Clintons Thong posted:Ugh I need a bunch of this stuff and I know they're going to rake me over the coals but man. Tires should be a good, waiting to get some summers off of tirerack. Looked up what firestone called a tuneup and is just sparkplugs, haha. Oh well we will see what I'm quoted beyond the loving oil change I guess. Just places like this make me paranoid about poo poo and after watching that thing about jiffy lube I just am loathe to go there but I don't know what my other options are around here. You should ask around to get any other option at all. I wouldn't just a Firestone with it. Honestly, I'd probably take a Honda dealership that wasn't widely denounced as scum over a Firestone for non-tire work.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 04:38
|
|
|
Deceptor101 posted:Crossposting this from the BMW thread in the hope of getting more answers: That is pretty hilarious. What's wrong with the CCV? Is it just a leak somewhere? Also, it kind of reminds me of this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbNxugO-uf0
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 05:07
|
|
|
I've talked to all my classic car friends about this and get a different answer every time - the car is a 1948 buick roadmaster with a 320ci inline 8.. when driving on the freeway for a while, the engine starts knocking badly under load. i get off the freeway, and ease it around on the streets for a bit, it goes away. other than that, the car runs great never gets hot. vapor lock? the fuel line is very close to the upper radiator hose and maybe with increased flow it may heat this up? timing? (getting this right is pretty tricky - ill explain if necessary) warped head? ( the guy who told me this is a weird old kook that hangs out at the cruise in every friday) any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 07:50
|
|
|
My dad had a Toyota Highland Hybrid that wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. It was out of warranty, and the dealer said it was a hybrid part that would be $8k to replace. He said it was "the part that connects the hybrid system with the 4wd system", my sister thought it was the "inverter", and apparently he took it to an independent shop and they thought that he'd need to go to the dealer. Also, because of the radiation thing in Japan parts could take up to 6 months. WTF? Anyone heard of this happening before? He ended up just buying a new car. I figured he was just being screwed over by the dealer but my sister said he did get at least 1, and maybe 2, independent evaluations. I just can't imagine there's any part that is $8k to replace on the car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 12:53
|
|
|
LobsterboyX posted:other than that, the car runs great never gets hot. So are you saying it gets hot(er than normal) on the highway? Pinging is preignition. It's either too lean, or the timing is too retarded. Is this a mechanical or vacuum advance distributor? It sounds like it's not advancing enough, or the timing is just set wrong. I'd start by figuring out how much the distributor is supposed to advance if it's working properly, put a timing light on the thing and check that it's actually advancing. If all that checks out, I'd see if you aren't running the thing lean all the time. If you fatten up the mixture does it still run fine off highway? If so, you very well may be able to fix your issue that way. LobsterboyX posted:warped head? ( the guy who told me this is a weird old kook that hangs out at the cruise in every friday) Ummm...stop listening to him.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 14:08
|
|
|
Brigdh posted:Air Conditioning Service (WTF is this?) Check performance and charge, spray disinfectant/deodorizer into the intake either way. Total cash grab if the A/C's working fine. Total cash grab if it's not, too, since it'll usually be a tack-on charge on top of actually diagnosing and fixing the A/C. Occasionally it'll include cleaning the condenser in case you're too feeble to operate a garden hose yourself. Most likely brought to you by the charming made-up aftermarket services people at BG. Hillary Clintons Thong posted:Looked up what firestone called a tuneup and is just sparkplugs, haha. That's pretty normal. Most vehicles don't really have anything else to do anymore between adaptive engine control and permanent coil on plug setups. Maybe a PCV valve if it's taken a dump. My last tune-up consisted of replacing my spark plugs, road testing, and telling me my air filter was dirty. (I naturally declined to pay for 15 minutes of shop labor to install an air filter.) Car-stupid people know "a tune-up" is a thing they should have done on a schedule, so hey, tune-up it is.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 16:22
|
|
|
I was hoping maybe they'd adjust my valves or something. Oh well I found out that I have tomorrow off so maybe I can go to Honda at least.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 18:03
|
|
|
Molten Llama posted:
Don't they usually at least include serpentine belts and air/cabin filters as standard in a tuneup?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 18:25
|
|
|
If my oil pan gasket was indeed leaking before I changed it (I'm pretty sure it was) , it wasn't the only leak, because the ~1 quart of oil per tank of gas has to be going somewhere. Nothing at all drips out onto the garage/driveway, as far as I can tell. There's a bunch of crud below the exhaust manifold, so after work today I'm going to blast it off with a power washer and drive around for a bit to see if I can pinpoint the leak. It will probably be the most likely culprit, the oil pump. gently caress my life. 01 Integra B18B1 engine, in case anyone has an idea.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 18:31
|
|
|
Motronic posted:If that's the case (everything but the rubber lines) and its as bad as you say, it's entirely probable that you can put the thing on a lift with someone in it to stomp on the brakes and be able to SEE the line(s) bulge. So then brake lines stretch like this due to old age? Or maybe they put lovely lines in I didn't know about? I would think the first scenario is more probable.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 19:30
|
|
|
rcman50166 posted:So then brake lines stretch like this due to old age? Or maybe they put lovely lines in I didn't know about? I would think the first scenario is more probable. The rubber gets old. It's unlikely that any new lines they put in would be bad out of the box, as they need to be DOT approved unless they are marked "for off road use only". They probably just didn't change them.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 19:46
|
|
|
89 honda accord coupe with a 2.0 sohc engine. Got an intermittant crank no start situation. Cranks normally for days and if you just keep cycling the key it fires up right away. Ignition relay? Edit: just pinned out the main relay and it functions per the diag chart I followed. INCHI DICKARI fucked around with this message at 21:58 on Jun 2, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2011 20:53
|
|
|
I have a 06 Mazda 6 and the interior headliner fabric is detaching near the top rear window on both sides. Does adhesive spray work ? Google is giving mixed info on sprays and is saying it's best to remove and respray and refabric. Anyone dealt with it? Just bummed because my car is pretty new imho for the headliner to start coming off.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 03:20
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:Toyota Highland Hybrid that wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. I just can't imagine there's any part that is $8k to replace on the car. The system in that car is EXTREMELY complicated, but with such a vauge "oh we are going to replace these parts" with out actually stating "we are replacing the flux capacitor and Mr Fusion because its not fluxing and making fusion" it sounds like they are just throwing parts at it in the hope it works. Though a no-start sounds like it would be something in the hybrid system not telling the engine to start. Sounds like it could be something as simple as a relay or way more complicated than that. *I have no clue how hybrids work, poo poo looks futuristic, hence the Back to the Future references. And I don't know the correct term of the active process of "fusion"
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 03:29
|
|
|
MomJeans420 posted:My dad had a Toyota Highland Hybrid that wouldn't start a couple weeks ago. It was out of warranty, and the dealer said it was a hybrid part that would be $8k to replace. He said it was "the part that connects the hybrid system with the 4wd system", my sister thought it was the "inverter", and apparently he took it to an independent shop and they thought that he'd need to go to the dealer. I haven't heard of it going wrong, but it is the case that the Highlander has extra hybrid components to power the rear wheels. It's basically an extra motor and planetary gearset that purely electrically drives the rear. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hybrid_Synergy_Drive#Hybrid_Synergy_Drive_.28HSD.29 If it's really to do with the rear wheels, then it'd probably be any of those extra mechanical bits.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 03:34
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Pinging is preignition.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 03:50
|
|
|
14 INCH DICK TURBO posted:89 honda accord coupe with a 2.0 sohc engine. Got an intermittant crank no start situation. Cranks normally for days and if you just keep cycling the key it fires up right away. Ignition relay? The relay will only crap out when it's either real hot or real cold. Pop it open and heat up the solder joints enough to re-flow the solder a bit. The ignitor tends to crap itself on those too, but it's usually an all-or-nothing, and when they're going the tach will usually get twitchy. Is it carb or EFI? If it's EFI, if you can get to the ECU (I want to say it's either under the passenger side carpeting in the footwell, or under the drivers seat) there's an LED under a window on it that'll blink any codes. edit: crap I forgot those don't store codes, the LED will only blink if the CEL is lit. v  v
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Jun 3, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 04:53
|
|
|
What's the difference between a higher gear ratio versus a lower gear ratio on a Jeep? Such as 4.88 vs 3.xx?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 05:30
|
|
|
some texas redneck posted:The relay will only crap out when it's either real hot or real cold. Pop it open and heat up the solder joints enough to re-flow the solder a bit. Yes but only if the MIL is on... My money is also on the PGM-FI main relay flaking out. When it misbehaves pop the fuel return line off the throttle body and see if gas squirts out while cranking. If it doesn't then its the relay, or the fuel pump itself.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 05:32
|
|
|
Iron Squid posted:What's the difference between a higher gear ratio versus a lower gear ratio on a Jeep? Such as 4.88 vs 3.xx? Sometimes it means the ability to drive 65 without exploding the engine.  Higher ratio means more torque, but also means the engine has to rev higher to go at X speed. Lower ratio means less torque, but the engine can rev at a lower rpm for high speed cruising.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 05:33
|
|
|
Iron Squid posted:What's the difference between a higher gear ratio versus a lower gear ratio on a Jeep? Such as 4.88 vs 3.xx? This is the gear ratio in the differentials. Higher numbers are a larger geardown. More gear down, more low-end acceleration and lower top speed; you also get a lower crawl speed, which is really nice for manual transmission jeeps on rocks. Crawl speed is when you have your transfer case in 4L, transmission in first, engine idling, and the clutch fully engaged (foot off the pedal).
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 05:34
|
|
|
ChangoBat posted:I have a 06 Mazda 6 and the interior headliner fabric is detaching near the top rear window on both sides. Does adhesive spray work ? Google is giving mixed info on sprays and is saying it's best to remove and respray and refabric. Anyone dealt with it? Just bummed because my car is pretty new imho for the headliner to start coming off. Here's why you're getting mixed information: it depends. What typically makes the fabric fall down is not an adhesive failure. Most headliners are some manner of fiber board, with a layer of foam glued to it, and the fabric you see glued to that. Just about every failed headliner I've seen has been because the foam is falling apart (I've always lived in humid areas on the east coast - your mileage may vary). No amount of spray adhesive is going to fix that (but staples are a ghetto way to hold it up for a while). If you have a different problem, it might work for you.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 13:11
|
|
|
Time for another repair of my BMW! For those who care I fixed the window regulator, and once you know what you're doing it's not a hard job at all. Paint repair on the other hand... Now, when I bought the car it had a big ol' hole in the back box from rust, so the dealer said he'd replace it for me. Of course, I become less naive as I get older and I should have realised at the time that I was going to get a sub-standard job. Well, no surprise, my exhaust has a leak and it seems to be coming from where the new part of the exhaust was attached. What I want to ask you chaps is if you have any recommendations for back boxes. It's an E36 chassis BMW, a 318iS. I learn about cars as I go and I don't really know what to look for as I've never dealt with exhaust systems before.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 13:18
|
|
|
This morning there was an incident with a lurking wheely bin, and it's knocked my wing mirror into component parts. It looks all smashed to hell, but as far as I can see there's no broken plastic anywhere, so it should just slot back together. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to do it, and the joint feels locked in that position. The car is a Merc C270 CDI. Help me AI, help!
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 14:01
|
|
|
am i double clutching properly? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGV305v2Iyw been trying to teach myself and recorded it for the first time. read a little theory on what it does mechanically and im wondering if i might be slightly early blipping the throttle. (before the clutch is out in neutral therefore only rev matching the engine and not the transmission?) fakedit: i also noticed that i move my heal back instead of hovering it when shifting down twice and that i was wearing socks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 15:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 3, 2024 16:23 |
|
|
Few months ago I picked up a 2000 rs with brand new motor. Few days after, the cel came on with p0420. I foolishly replaced the front o2 and cleared the code. A few days went by and the code came back. Before I could replace the rear o2, the cel started flashing and the engine began sputtering out and misfiring. I limited it to the parts store and replaced the spark plugs and wires (in the parking lot har har). Old plugs had no electrode left and were pitch black (covered in unburnt fuel???). Cleared the code again, car ran fine for about a week. Cel came back on (same code), and I've been driving it like this for a few weeks. Car recently started sputtering just a little bit on occasion (normally around 2-3k rpm). Is it a fair assumption that the catalytic converter is clogged (185k miles on exhaust) and causing excessive back pressure to eat/foul/corrupt spark plugs which then makes my car sputter? Or is there something else that could cause this (does a bad rear o2 cause misfires?) that I should check before I drop $500+ into new cats?
|
|
#
?
Jun 3, 2011 19:03
|
|