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Spent memorial day in Central Park. Here's a shot of my friend Jim, which is my favorite of the day.
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May 31, 2011 18:48
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| # ? May 9, 2024 07:46 |
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Most of the people I hang out with are hippie musicians who prefer tube amps for their instruments and have extensive vinyl collections, so they think it's super-rad that I'm shooting in an "analog" format anyway. If someone approaches me on the street, I explain that my gear used to be my grandpa's and my FM2 was the same camera he used to take my baby pictures. The story is enough to melt any hater's heart and turn them all 
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May 31, 2011 18:56
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My dad sold his SRT 100x before I could buy it off of him. Then he died. The end.
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May 31, 2011 23:20
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evil_bunnY posted:Then he died. The end. Remind me never to wrong you... 
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May 31, 2011 23:29
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I'm thinking about upgrading from my K1000 to the Canon F-1 being sold here: http://tucson.craigslist.org/pho/2412475528.html I emailed the guy and he wants $250 for the body and all of the lenses and accessories. None of the lenses seem incredible, but the body seems to be in nice shape and it comes with a Canon Power Winder F and the Speed Finder.      Should I go for it? Anything I should be looking for other than making sure everything seems clean and functional?
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Jun 1, 2011 01:38
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I wouldn't bother. If you want to upgrade to something with a coupled meter, get another Pentax body like an ME Super or something. They're dirt cheap, plentiful and excellent.
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Jun 1, 2011 01:58
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8th-samurai posted:Awesome stuff  Everyone on CL around here thinks "accepting reasonable offers" means "you pay what I paid when I bought it, plus inflation."Some lady in North NJ was selling off her darkroom stuff to set up a photography non-profit, and thought her half-empty jugs of developer were worth %75 of the paying price. Her $30 SS dev tank with reels is $30, because she never used it 
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Jun 1, 2011 04:05
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I have a couple of quick questions about using film. I am just about to receive my first film SLR (Pentax PZ-70). I plan on shooting both black and white and also colour. After reading through this thread, I have seen that Tri-X is the way to go for B+W. Do people have any suggestions for what film to use for color, or will any old roll do? Around where I live, there is one local camera shop, and at least two retailers that I know of that do photo processing. Are there any particular places that I should definitely steer clear of when getting my film developed?
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Jun 1, 2011 04:29
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Man_alive posted:After reading through this thread, I have seen that Tri-X is the way to go for B+W. Do people have any suggestions for what film to use for color, or will any old roll do? With color film, what you're shooting has a lot to do with which film to use. So what are you planning on shooting?
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Jun 1, 2011 04:32
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Man_alive posted:After reading through this thread, I have seen that Tri-X is the way to go for B+W. Do people have any suggestions for what film to use for color, or will any old roll do? The new Portra 400 is pretty good. It's fine grained with a lot of exposure leniency .
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Jun 1, 2011 04:41
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Bodega posted:Should I go for it? Anything I should be looking for other than making sure everything seems clean and functional? Don't bother, you can get an A1 or AE1 for about $50-75 on ebay with a 50mm 1.8 (or if you are lucky a 1.4) and FD mount lenses are cheap, to the point it's not worth going for anything other than the canon branded stuff. I have an A1 and 50mm 1.4, 28mm 2.8 and 135mm 3.5 and spent about $150 on the whole deal (bought separately). Watch out for squeaky canon shutters though, but they are easily fixed.
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Jun 1, 2011 05:00
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Fiannaiocht posted:The new Portra 400 is pretty good. It's fine grained with a lot of exposure leniency . Basically this. From what I've read, Portra 400 should basically be your go-to high-speed film at this point. It's got excellent latitude, is designed for a digital workflow/scanning, and can be PP'd either high contrast or low contrast. It even looks pretty good up to 1600. I don't shoot a lot of high speed color but when I finish my last couple rolls of 400NC it's going to be Portra 400 from here on out. For 100 speed film, I really like Reala. Other people like Ektar or slide films (Fuji is king here).
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Jun 1, 2011 05:01
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Bodega - I just loaded up some Reala 100, so I'll let you know how it turns out, going to be doing some general outdoor/landscape shooting. Also, shot the last half of the roll that was in the SRT102 when I got it...turns out it's Ektachrome 100, lord knows how long it's been in there. Years, the question is how many. Should be interesting to see how it turns out.
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Jun 1, 2011 05:12
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HPL posted:With color film, what you're shooting has a lot to do with which film to use. So what are you planning on shooting? I'm not too sure what I want to do just yet. I suspect I will be leaning more towards portraiture work than anything else with what I shoot on film. Fiannaiocht posted:The new Portra 400 is pretty good. It's fine grained with a lot of exposure leniency . Paul MaudDib posted:Basically this. From what I've read, Portra 400 should basically be your go-to high-speed film at this point. It's got excellent latitude, is designed for a digital workflow/scanning, and can be PP'd either high contrast or low contrast. It even looks pretty good up to 1600. I don't shoot a lot of high speed color but when I finish my last couple rolls of 400NC it's going to be Portra 400 from here on out. Thanks for this. I will look into the Portra and see how I go from there.
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Jun 1, 2011 05:23
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Man_alive posted:I'm not too sure what I want to do just yet. I suspect I will be leaning more towards portraiture work than anything else with what I shoot on film. Reala or Fuji 160S would be great for that. You don't normally want crazy colors for portraits. I think Reala has been discontinued or something because it's a lot harder to find nowadays but 160S is almost the same thing.
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Jun 1, 2011 05:35
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slide: velvia negative: portra 160NC bw: acros is the bulk of what I use
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Jun 1, 2011 06:42
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How susceptible to moisture and liquid is undeveloped film? What happens if a camera gets a little wet? What about temperature extremes? max cold/hot?
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Jun 1, 2011 06:51
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if it's 35mm, I've heard that if you drop your camera in the water, you can just put the film in a canister full of water quickly and tell the lab
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Jun 1, 2011 06:57
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I'm sort of out of film temporarily, but I have a friend who is into it, and wants to do some printing. She sent me a question about a vague offer someone posted on a mailing list she's on: "I have an entire darkroom available. Enlarger (color head filter pack) for both color and black and white printing. All the trays, grain focusers, sink, easels, beakers, film canisters, chemicals, extra lenses for printing 35mm or 21/4 negs etc…. everything you need to have a full working darkroom. Everything is in good working condition. $800 obo" quoted verbatim. It is INCREDIBLY vague and I am going to tell her to ask for a lot more detail, but that price can't be right, can it? Is there some kind of gold standard for darkroom equipment that could legitimately cost eight hundred dollars? I've seen darkroom printing setups on craigslist for a fraction of that price, but then again they could be crap equipment. So I guess my question is less about that PARTICULAR setup and more about whether there is any kind of setup that would legitimately cost eight hundred dollars.
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Jun 1, 2011 09:02
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First roll of film on a new camera, got it developed by a small local lab, need a little help troubleshooting what's going on in the bottom left. Is it some kind of light leak or is it something from the developing process? It was only on 2 or 3 shots out of 12, always in the same position/pattern.
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Jun 1, 2011 10:16
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Martytoof posted:So I guess my question is less about that PARTICULAR setup and more about whether there is any kind of setup that would legitimately cost eight hundred dollars. You could easily spend that setting up a darkroom from retail. Good easels are multiple hundreds new and aren't exactly cheap used either. Also the convience of someone else picking up all the accoutrement the darkroom is nice because you don't need to nickle and dime yourself buying stuff like tongs ect. That said there is enough stuff for darkroom out there on the cheap I would not feel bad about negotiating that price a bit lower. Anyone around here have any experience with pyro/staining developers?
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Jun 1, 2011 12:20
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Martytoof posted:So I guess my question is less about that PARTICULAR setup and more about whether there is any kind of setup that would legitimately cost eight hundred dollars.
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Jun 1, 2011 13:49
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Martytoof posted:So I guess my question is less about that PARTICULAR setup and more about whether there is any kind of setup that would legitimately cost eight hundred dollars. Yes. A variable-contrast cold light system enlarger could easily cost that. Basically, it's a cold light with a computer attached. Once you find your proper exposure you just focus, input the setting, and hit go.
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Jun 1, 2011 14:02
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Pushed 35mm Tri-x to 3200 last night at a concert in Central Park last night. These are just quick scans off the first couple of rolls. I am hoping I can do more with them in the darkroom, but these show some promise.  Oh and FYI - HC110 Dilution B 30 mins, 6 initial inversions then 2 every 5 mins. mysticp fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Jun 1, 2011 |
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Jun 1, 2011 16:45
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Thanks for the info on the darkroom equipment. I had no idea it could get that pricey, though I'm not sure why I expected that to be true.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:30
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Martytoof posted:Thanks for the info on the darkroom equipment. I had no idea it could get that pricey, though I'm not sure why I expected that to be true.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:48
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Martytoof posted:I'm sort of out of film temporarily, but I have a friend who is into it, and wants to do some printing. She sent me a question about a vague offer someone posted on a mailing list she's on: Your friend lives within five miles of me. We're on the same local mailing list.
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Jun 1, 2011 21:25
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As far as darkroom stuff, I got an enlarger, easel, grain focuser, trays, tongs, daylight tank with thermometer, safelight bulbs, plus about $80 worth of paper all for $50. Still haven't used it because I don't have a room I can print in with running water, but a good deal.
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Jun 1, 2011 22:00
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atomicthumbs posted:Your friend lives within five miles of me. We're on the same local mailing list. It's a small world
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Jun 1, 2011 22:31
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Got back a roll of Ilford Delta 400 today. I've been slowly teaching myself more about film and experimenting with different brands, but I'm in love with this stuff. I shot a concert in someone's living room the other night, where there were only maybe 1 or 2 dim lights and the photos came out quite nice. 36330034  36330031  36330026
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Jun 1, 2011 23:19
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What do you do about keeping partially used film in your cameras while they sit around in a hot apartment or house? All of the other rolls I have shot but not yet developed get packaged and sealed and go into my freezer. But I don't know what to do with the partially used rolls in my film backs. I won't be able to pick up the camera again until the weekend. In the meantime, it's close to 100 degrees outside and it's warming my apartment up to over 80 degrees while I'm at work. Is this pretty much fine and nothing to worry about, or should I be taking better precautions here?
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Jun 1, 2011 23:38
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I was fooling around with the zone system for a few days on the weekend with Portra 160NC film that had been in my room for months. My room almost never gets below 70 and reaches 80 quite often, it came out fine. Pretty sure I left slide and other films in a scorching car after exposing it too, don't remember problems with that either.
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Jun 2, 2011 02:53
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Thanks for the equipment info. I told my friend to just ask what the kit actually contains in some significant amount of detail so I can help her come up with a realistic counteroffer to eight hundred dollars, if that's even warranted. I'm sure I'll be back in here asking your guys' opinion
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Jun 2, 2011 05:39
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Mannequin posted:What do you do about keeping partially used film in your cameras while they sit around in a hot apartment or house? I wouldn't worry about it, the only time I have ever had problems with film fogging because of heat was 100+ Georgia summers and leaving film in direct sun in a car. Even then, about half the time I did something stupid like that the film was fine. Once I left two bricks worth of slide film sitting in my car for a few days while I was moving in July and it was still good.
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Jun 2, 2011 06:02
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Oh god, it's happening. I'm buying more film cameras. I bought a clean looking AE-1 yesterday. Came with the 50/1.8, 100-200/5.6, 188 Speedlite. I think the 50mm is unable to stop down. Actually on both lenses the DOF preview doesn't seem to be working. But when I open the back, set the shutter to B and the aperture down to 22, can see that the 100-200 is stopping down. But the 50mm is staying wide open no matter what setting I put it on. Should I just throw it in the trash? Actually, I'd rather just stick to shooting my Pentax MX to be honest (even though the AE-1 shutter sounds incredible!!), but I'm scared to even try and sell the AE-1 without a working 50mm attached too it. Good thing I only paid $20 for everything.
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Jun 2, 2011 17:32
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Mightaswell posted:Oh god, it's happening. I'm buying more film cameras. It only becomes a problem when people recognise you as the guy with film cameras and just start giving them to you. I'm surely at well over 50 now.
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Jun 2, 2011 19:14
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Guys guys. I just bought a FED 3! The shots I've seen I liked and it's a beautiful looking thing. What film should I buy and use?! I'm so excited. Is there a thread for talking about 35mm range finders? STOKED.
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Jun 2, 2011 19:18
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Mightaswell posted:Should I just throw it in the trash? Actually, I'd rather just stick to shooting my Pentax MX to be honest (even though the AE-1 shutter sounds incredible!!), but I'm scared to even try and sell the AE-1 without a working 50mm attached too it Your MX is M42 mount right? I'll trade you a 50/1.4 and 135/2.8 for the AE-1 body.
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Jun 2, 2011 19:19
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brad industry posted:Your MX is M42 mount right? I'll trade you a 50/1.4 and 135/2.8 for the AE-1 body. No it's K mount, but M42 adapters are plentiful. Is the 135mm a takumar? Let me do some quick research about how metering works on screwmount lenses.
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Jun 2, 2011 19:23
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| # ? May 9, 2024 07:46 |
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The 50 is a Super Takumar, 135 is a Vivitar I inherited from someone. I've got a M42 2X teleconverter too. I have a Spotmatic with a busted meter and this poo poo is just collecting dust in my studio. I know the K mount was designed to be backwards compatible with M42 so they should work. Let me know because I have some FD lenses somewhere but no body to put them on  .edit: and if anyone wants this Spotmatic you can have it for the cost of shipping. Works fine but I think the meter may be gone (or maybe I'm just not using the right battery). brad industry fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Jun 2, 2011 |
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Jun 2, 2011 19:31
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