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Wow, they call it a VRX in some places? That's a bit desperate.
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Jun 3, 2011 02:17
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| # ? May 27, 2024 20:55 |
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Well done mod, can i get a full view of the car and see how the plate looks? is that the default place for the front license plate on an evo?
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Jun 3, 2011 02:19
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mutt2jeff posted:I think he is confusing plastidip with spray paint. The plastidip just peels off with a pressure washer. Or just with your fingers. I usually spray some rubbing alcohol which causes it to lose adhesion and swell a little. coolskillrex remix posted:Well done mod, can i get a full view of the car and see how the plate looks? is that the default place for the front license plate on an evo? kimbo305 posted:Wow, they call it a VRX in some places? That's a bit desperate. Shaocaholica fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 02:21
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mutt2jeff posted:I think he is confusing plastidip with spray paint. The plastidip just peels off with a pressure washer. Ding ding ding. I wasn't aware of that. Carry on.
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Jun 3, 2011 03:17
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Beast Pussy posted:If you ever park it near Publick House on a Thursday night I might catch it! I don't go into many other parts of the city as often as I used to but that may change now that its the season for cycling. I enjoy playing with cars in city traffic for some reason. Well mr. Pussy, send me an e-mail to muffinpox@gmail.com and we can meet there!
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Jun 3, 2011 03:44
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Muffinpox posted:Well mr. Pussy, send me an e-mail to muffinpox@gmail.com and we can meet there! Prepare for bizarre trucking fanfics and offers of "trying out this shift knob"
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Jun 3, 2011 03:47
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That's why you never get into cars with strange internet people Kimbo 
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Jun 3, 2011 04:08
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Shaocaholica posted:Put on my front plate with double sided tape... That is a hell of a lot of work for the plate mount. A friend of mine ordered rare earth magnets and mounted some inside his bumper and some on the back of his plate mount, which is similar to yours. A little bit of felt on the magnets on the back of the mount and there's no damage to the bumper. It holds like a champ and hasn't come off once. When he wants it off, all it takes is a slight pull and an upward motion and--boom--no plate, no holes. And for content, this is what I just finished:  Finally got around to pulling my front bumper to install my OE bixenon projectors. I also figured out that my $20 ebay VAG-COM cable can code a lot more of my car's ECU than I thought it could. I was able to recode the car from halogens to bixenons myself. 
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Jun 3, 2011 06:31
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DropShadow posted:That is a hell of a lot of work for the plate mount. A friend of mine ordered rare earth magnets and mounted some inside his bumper and some on the back of his plate mount, which is similar to yours. A little bit of felt on the magnets on the back of the mount and there's no damage to the bumper. It holds like a champ and hasn't come off once. When he wants it off, all it takes is a slight pull and an upward motion and--boom--no plate, no holes. I might do this in the future but its kinda scary that someone can just take your plates if they knew or maybe a pedestrian bumps your car and it falls off. I guess the trade off is that my method is more secure than magnets but isn't removable on a whim.
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Jun 3, 2011 09:31
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Shaocaholica posted:I might do this in the future but its kinda scary that someone can just take your plates if they knew or maybe a pedestrian bumps your car and it falls off. I guess the trade off is that my method is more secure than magnets but isn't removable on a whim. Is there a problem with people stealing plates in CA? I've only heard of it happening once or twice here in the midwest. I think I'm going to do the rare earth magnets soon as well. I have a towhook plate mount right now but I'm getting tired of it.
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Jun 3, 2011 16:31
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Finally got the warranty replacement front shock for my MG in the mail. It also serves as the upper control arm, so when the shock arm started to wobble at that castle nut, the car became pretty much undriveable.
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Jun 3, 2011 18:51
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I got tired of having 6 inches of wire holding my door panels on because I was dumb and put the tweeters in a lovely spot. I knew it would be a problem when I put the things in 3 weeks ago, so I just twisted the wires together and hoped it didn't sound lovely meanwhile. Last week I bought some of these things hoping it would solve the problem.  They sucked - two of the four just broke when I was trying to crimp them on, and the two that lived...  Explains why my tweeter was blinking in and out at random. I scoured my junk drawer for a solution, and came up with this:  Off a dead PSU. I'm leaving the other two wires in case I need anything else on the door later. Soldered on..  And good to go.  I wish leaving the wires where I could get at them behind the window switches without yanking the entire panel off was my idea, but I just sort of tucked them there without paying attention when I did the speakers originally.
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Jun 3, 2011 19:20
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wow.. for car audio why didnt i ever think of using molex? Makes so much sense compared to those lovely little crimp on things that are so out of spec most of the time they either dont go on, or they are so loose that theyll just fall off terminals. You know you can yank out the loose wires right? they should come out really easily.
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Jun 3, 2011 22:34
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coolskillrex remix posted:wow.. for car audio why didnt i ever think of using molex? Makes so much sense compared to those lovely little crimp on things that are so out of spec most of the time they either dont go on, or they are so loose that theyll just fall off terminals. You know you can yank out the loose wires right? they should come out really easily. Run Cat-5 ethernet cable as your 8 audio wires 
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Jun 3, 2011 22:56
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Javid posted:I got tired of having 6 inches of wire holding my door panels on because I was dumb and put the tweeters in a lovely spot. Heh. Aluminum to copper solder joint...  What were you trying to crimp them with? If it cost less than $25 that's why it broke the fuckers(and your palm). Also if you double back the stripped end, tin it, and then crimp it they usually hold better on the smaller wire gauges.
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Jun 3, 2011 23:08
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Sockington posted:Run Cat-5 ethernet cable as your 8 audio wires Would that be a good idea? Most car audio stuff is unbalanced and cat5 might be noisier than standard RCA.
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Jun 3, 2011 23:10
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Sponge! posted:Heh. Aluminum to copper solder joint... Almost all speaker wire unless you pay big $$$ is copper clad aluminum soo...
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Jun 3, 2011 23:11
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What a silly place for a component tweeter. E: VVV What Lowclock fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 23:13
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What did I do to my ride today? I got fair up the bitch that's what!
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Jun 3, 2011 23:15
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tobu posted:What did I do to my ride today? I got fair up the bitch that's what! What now? That's some crazy moon language right there.
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Jun 3, 2011 23:42
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[img]http://i.imgur.com/AHNeW.jpg][/img] An argument against working on cars while drunk.
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Jun 4, 2011 00:47
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Took the front license plate holder off the Cobalt SS since we don't have front plates in PA. This involved removing the headlights, headlight brackets, and bumper cover to remove the bolts from the backside of the bumper cover. Before:  After: 
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Jun 4, 2011 00:47
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meatpimp posted:What now? That's some crazy moon language right there. drat, I thought Americans and English also used the term 'get fair up the bitch'. I thrashed it is what I'm trying to say. It needs an 'italian tune-up' but currently the ECU is limiting the engine to 6000rpm (new turbo has thrown the tune out of whack) so it hasn't been abused in a while.
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Jun 4, 2011 00:57
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Lowclock posted:What a silly place for a component tweeter. Nobody is less thrilled with that decision than me, but you can't un-saw a hole, so here we are.
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Jun 4, 2011 00:59
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tobu posted:drat, I thought Americans and English also used the term 'get fair up the bitch'. There's "got all up in that bitch" for Americans, but I dunno that I would understand to mean hauling rear end if you said that about a car.
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Jun 4, 2011 00:59
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Took the front license plate holder off the Cobalt SS since we don't have front plates in PA. This involved removing the headlights, headlight brackets, and bumper cover to remove the bolts from the backside of the bumper cover. It looked better with the plate because now you have three ugly holes.
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Jun 4, 2011 02:18
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wav3form posted:It looked better with the plate because now you have three ugly holes. They're plugs.
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Jun 4, 2011 02:48
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kimbo305 posted:There's "got all up in that bitch" for Americans, but I dunno that I would understand to mean hauling rear end if you said that about a car. Yeah, as an American I'd read that as suggesting you'd robbed the car aided by a brick. Imperador do Brasil posted:They're plugs. Get some little European headlight wipers from a junkyard and put them in instead of plugs to confuse people. Bonus points if there's a clock assembly driving each one and they can tell time.
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Jun 4, 2011 02:56
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Imperador do Brasil posted:They're plugs. Oh ok that's much better. Maybe the picture makes it look worse than it is. I hate having a front plate though... here in VA we have to have them.
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Jun 4, 2011 03:08
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Splizwarf posted:Yeah, as an American I'd read that as suggesting you'd robbed the car aided by a brick. kimbo305 posted:There's "got all up in that bitch" for Americans, but I dunno that I would understand to mean hauling rear end if you said that about a car. This hurts a little but I was sure everyone used this phrase. It turns out that maybe only my small town does use it and that also I was raised in redneckville and I'm fiercely living in denial. As for "fair up the bitch" - it is normally used when referring to tractors, cars, horses and girls. "Look how hard Bruce is revving tits off that commedore. He's fair up the bitch."
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Jun 4, 2011 04:46
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Did my first oil change on the RS 4 today (the maintenance plan has expired). I'm gonna bleed the brakes later tonight to prepare for NJMP. I'm so not looking forward to putting the drat belly pan back on, though. Not only does it have what seems like dozens of attachments and tabs (like the one on the TT), but you also have four cooling ducts to line up. I'll save reattaching that thing for last.  I also got to try out a set of Jack Point jackstands. I've always been nervous having the car on stands since there is no real good place underneath to put them. It has lifting points on the corners, but obviously one of those will be needed for the jack. So I've been using the front subframe, with which I was never really comfortable. These stands allow the car to be jacked up at the lifting points with a special pad, then the jack stand is slid around the jack and the pad is lowered onto the lip of the stand. They're pretty expensive, but a very slick design.  
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Jun 4, 2011 21:39
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DogDodger posted:Did my first oil change on the RS 4 today (the maintenance plan has expired). I'm gonna bleed the brakes later tonight to prepare for NJMP. I'm so not looking forward to putting the drat belly pan back on, though. Not only does it have what seems like dozens of attachments and tabs (like the one on the TT), but you also have four cooling ducts to line up. I'll save reattaching that thing for last. I work at a Audi certified body shop. Every day we rack these cars on our 2 post lifts at the same points you have your stands on now (the pinch welds). It's perfectly fine to lift the car up at that point, and the soft rubber pads won't mar the rocker pinch welds. Also, the higher up you can get the car, the easier it will be to get those undercovers on. A couple extra small jack stands might help you out to get them into position. Great looking car. I've been lucky enough to drive a few at the shop, very impressive.
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Jun 4, 2011 22:03
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DogDodger posted:Did my first oil change on the RS 4 today (the maintenance plan has expired). I'm gonna bleed the brakes later tonight to prepare for NJMP. I'm so not looking forward to putting the drat belly pan back on, though. Not only does it have what seems like dozens of attachments and tabs (like the one on the TT), but you also have four cooling ducts to line up. I'll save reattaching that thing for last. Those jack are the most clever thing I've seen in a long time.
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Jun 4, 2011 22:10
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Ricecop69 posted:I work at a Audi certified body shop. Every day we rack these cars on our 2 post lifts at the same points you have your stands on now (the pinch welds). It's perfectly fine to lift the car up at that point, and the soft rubber pads won't mar the rocker pinch welds. Also, the higher up you can get the car, the easier it will be to get those undercovers on. A couple extra small jack stands might help you out to get them into position. Hey thanks a lot. I've thought about that, and prefer to use the pinch welds on the TT since the rubber lifting donuts tend to collapse, but the cracking the plastic on the RS 4 had me concerned. Sorry about the filthy underside. Not worries now, though.  
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Jun 5, 2011 00:40
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 Feels good man. 260hp/300ftlbs.
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Jun 5, 2011 02:05
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I got this sexy machine running today. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7ZeUjZSnKk
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Jun 5, 2011 02:48
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Drove it 950 miles to the east coast with the big Yakima carrier on top, two children in the back and the wife riding shotgun. I'm now in Myrtle Beach. Got 27mpg out of the Mazda5, which considering the load and the carrier, doesn't seem too bad. Unloaded highway I can get as high as 32mpg. Also, I killed a lot of bugs.
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Jun 5, 2011 03:14
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meh
Sovi3t fucked around with this message at 15:45 on Jul 9, 2014 |
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Jun 5, 2011 09:20
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Just put new Ignition points in my Caddy. The book calls for a 30 degree Dwell. The old points were set at 18 The new points I set at 30. It runs much better.
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Jun 6, 2011 01:00
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Filled the 540i up with nearly 2 gallons of Delvac Super 1300 15w40 and a Wix 51144. poo poo is like less than half the price of Mobil 1, and it runs better on it. It also has a little collapsible pour spout thing that also helps break the vacuum so it pours real nice without going everywhere and I don't need a funnel.
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Jun 6, 2011 01:24
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