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Well, the A4-style (Mk4 if you prefer) was offered with a 1.8T or one of 2 VR6 engines with either an automatic or 5 speed trans. Mk5 was offered with a 2.0T with a DSG automatic or 6 speed manual. Mk6 has a revised 2.0T engine again paired with a DSG auto or 6 speed manual. There are variants in each model such as the R32 and other limited edition GTI-type cars but the ones I've listed are the most common packages you'll see.
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May 28, 2011 17:13
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my1999gsr posted:Sedan or Avant? Avant 08 a4 s line w/ bluetooth but not nav. I have the ipod doc in the glovebox that I don't use, too.
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May 29, 2011 00:32
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havelock posted:How easy is it to remove the center console trim pieces in a B7 ('08) A4? I have the Symphony II stereo with no nav and I'd like to hook up an aux in and route the connector to the little tray under the arm rest. I can't seem to find good instructions for how to get the trim off anywhere online. It's a 6spd. Most of those pieces are held on by compression tabs and can be pried off with a plastic trim remover tool (or flathead if you're brave). Here's a link to a video demonstrating a short shifter installation where the first part involves a lot of the trim removal you'll probably have to do: http://audishifter.com/videos/B6_B7_A4-S4_install_vid.wmv
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May 29, 2011 08:33
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Hello again! I've got an Audi TT with the 1.8 turbo motor and a few weeks after I got it the accessory belt starting squeaking around town and at idle but went away when I got up to speed, was bloody embarrassing so I replaced the belt and the tensioner (pain in the arse) and it had been as quiet as a mouse for a year or so up until I left the car for a couple of months in the carport and now it's worse than ever! I could still hear it on the highway and the noise settles down a little when I put the air-conditioner on and goes away completely when I put the clutch in. The reason for all the information I'm thinking maybe one of the pulleys is causing the noise and wondered if there is a better solution than just replacing the belt again.
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May 29, 2011 13:33
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Ok, so my previously mentioned problem somewhere in this thread appears to be a transmission issue. A fatal transmission issue. 2004 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro @ ~ 138,000 miles. Because the transmission is toast, along with a timing belt/water pump situation coming up, some cosmetic defects, and a broken windshield, I was offered $1000 cash for the vehicle. To be honest, I think I'm being low-balled. According to NADA, clean-retail I'm looking at around $10,000. I guess the question is -- do I make the necessary repairs/maintenance mentioned above to bring it near clean retail -- or do I dump this thing for $1000 - which I'm lucky to get? I've had transmission specialists quote me numbers all over the place. The ones with warranties are coming in around $2600-$3,000 and a new timing belt/water pump is in the neighborhood of $1700. Thus, my math says I should bring it back to life. Is this logical? WWJD?
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May 30, 2011 02:58
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telarium4 posted:A fatal transmission issue. Well you probably are being low-balled, but if the car isn't running and you're unwilling to repair it then you're going to get those kinds of offers. Your math might be off because right now the used market is so messed up with fuel paranoia, hilarious overvaluation on 4-cyl cars, and inflated pricing in general; to the point that book value is even more irrelevant than usual. Depending on your locale (and nearby demand for AWD euro cars) you could likely repair the car, do some minor cosmetic repair, detail it, and sell it for more than you might expect. You might not be able to get the $10,000 NADA tells you but I think you would get more than the cost of repair. Unless there's other benefits or someone has you over a barrel with due fees or something, I'm not sure how "lucky to get" $1000 you are. So I say put down the NADA and instead look at how much similarly equipped 100k+ mile cars are actually selling for in your area, then use that to make a better choice about dumping it or repairing it.
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May 30, 2011 10:24
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telarium4 posted:Ok, so my previously mentioned problem somewhere in this thread appears to be a transmission issue. A fatal transmission issue. It sounds like it could be just a simple solenoid problem to me. If you are really adventurous enough you could swap around solenoids to see if you can isolate it, and then grab a working one from who knows where, maybe a junkyard, because as far as I know they only sell solenoids for the 5HP19 as kits and they're expensive as gently caress. E: Just checking them for resistance doesn't tell you much because they're mechanical. Swapping them should shift the problem if they're actually an issue, though. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jun 2, 2011 |
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May 30, 2011 11:28
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Appreciate all the advice. I have a couple months before owning it might become an issue (really, just a parking issue). I've had two different shops tell me it's a transmission issue - but perhaps I'll try a solenoid swap. The trans is hard shifting now, and not merely dying upon hard braking - so I'm more inclined to believe it's a mechanical issue. Maybe I'll get a third opinion on the transmission. I feel as though $4500 might be departing my bank account soon.
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May 30, 2011 21:53
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telarium4 posted:Appreciate all the advice. I have a couple months before owning it might become an issue (really, just a parking issue). If it's a solenoid issue they can be tested (at a basic, internal resistance level) to determine if they're ok or not ok and that's a fairly simple procedure. If all your K solenoids check out then it's time to have a look at the trans fluid to see if there's any debris in there. You don't have a CVT do you? We replaced quite a few valvebodies for hard-shifting. As to whether or not you should shell out the cash to fix the car, it really depends on you - if you can afford to pay to have the problems repaired then you should - you're taking a pretty big hit if you don't. Personally, I wouldn't take such a low price - $1000 is a little low. Maybe call around to the salvage yards in your area and see if you can source a new tranny yourself and have a shop install it.
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May 30, 2011 23:02
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Nope, not a CVT. Trans fluid was replaced. Shop said it was 'dirty' but there wasn't any debris in it. They were hoping that replacing the fluid would fix the issue. It didn't. Not entirely sure if they checked the solenoids.
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May 31, 2011 03:35
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telarium4 posted:Nope, not a CVT. Trans fluid was replaced. Shop said it was 'dirty' but there wasn't any debris in it. They were hoping that replacing the fluid would fix the issue. It didn't. Well, troubleshooting the solenoids would be my next step. Did the shop you went to drop the tranny pan or just drain it?
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Jun 2, 2011 00:54
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A few months back my 2003 Passat just decided to leave its brake lights on for no reason and after a week or two it stopped. More recently, maybe a month ago, the cruise control ceased functioning. Then yesterday the brake lights simply ceased functioning. I checked the bulbs and fuses and found nothing wrong, so I decided to google it up. I found this mentioning a recall on the brake switch for this year and model. (It's 62246). I'm going to call around to the VW dealerships in the area, but based on the last recall we went through with it (engine oil sludge) it takes forever to get the vehicle in for a repair. I've been told the part is fairly cheap, but I'm not sure if this is something I would be able to do on my own or if I should really have a professional do it. I'm not horrible with cars, but the replacement instructions I've seen seem to indicate it's a delicate more than laborious task which is why I'm concerned. (I found a guide w/ pictures here.) Would I be stupid to try this?
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Jun 2, 2011 03:56
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That may be the same problem I had a while ago on my 2006 A4 (faulty brake switch). Things got handled fairly swiftly at the dealership after I told them what was wrong with it, but they weren't particularly helpful with the diagnosis.
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Jun 2, 2011 04:00
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my1999gsr posted:Sounds like two different problems. If your interior fans only run on setting 4 than you've got a blown fan resistor. If you're not getting cold air with the A/C on and the fan on then you've got a problem with the A/C itself - a R134a leak, boned compressor or something similar. If you've still got warranty then of course it'll be VW that pays for the diag and repair... Unless you've had some kind of collision that punctured your A/C condensor or something. You were dead on with the fan resistor. They said the AC was fine, including fluid levels and all that. I guess it just doesn't feel as cold as it used to. But that could be because it's been something like 100 degrees everyday now and it's having a hard time getting such hot air so cool, I guess? Anyway, warranty covered it so i'm happy. Then I went to detail my car (which i've been neglecting because I didn't feel like doing it while something inside of it was already broken) and went to fill up the windshield wiper fluid, which has been empty for months now (again, same issue). Well, as soon as the fluid went in, it drained right back out. I checked around and couldn't see any cracks but it just has to have one. I can even pinpoint why it has one. A few months ago I absolutely drilled a raccoon doing 50, right on the front, right side bumper. So happens thats where around where the windshield wiper tank is located. Now that is most certainly not covered by warranty, so what should it cost to repair?
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Jun 3, 2011 00:18
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I just bought a B5 Passat with the 1.8T and a 5-speed. It's a 1999 with an AEB engine. It's currently at 82,750 miles. It has several problems. It came with only a basic key, no remote, though I know it has keyless entry. Somewhere along the line a previous owner must have lost or broken it. The local VW dealer wants $210 for a new key/remote and the labor involved to program it --pretty ridiculous. What other options do I have to affordably get a key/remote? Like I said, I have only 1 key, so some of the programming procedures involving 2 keys won't work for me. It has a problem with the locks where if I use the key to lock the car from the outside (arming the alarm), the alarm goes off. There's no way to lock the car using the key without arming the alarm, from what I can tell. My current work-around is to lock the car from the passenger door's inside switch. I think this has to do with a faulty part that detects the position of the door locks. The CCM thinks the door is unlocked when it isn't and sets off the alarm. Does this sound right, and how can I find out which door has the problem so I can take it apart and either replace or repair (I'm pretty good with electronics) the module? I changed the oil the first week I got it. While under the car I noticed tons of crystallized coolant covering the oil pan. It seems to have been coming from the water pump and the coolant hose connections for the oil cooler. I found a jug of Dex-Cool in the trunk and wanted to really thank the P.O. I bought a timing belt kit that includes a waterpump from Blauparts that I plan on installing soon, but I want to replace the coolant hoses while I'm at it. Since I don't have EKTA, I don't know which parts I need (Autohaus has many hoses listed and it's quite confusing as they're all for different engine codes). Then there's some more minor stuff, like the mirror switch's joystick being missing and the cruise control not working. The left sideview mirror glass also vibrates at cruising speeds --it's kind of annoying. The car feels like it has a lot more "slop" in the drivetrain when starting out or shifting than other cars I've had. I think it's just motor mounts. Should I definitely buy OEM mounts, or are cheaper alternatives of decent quality? I'm definitely due to replace my front control arms, there's a lot of slop in the ball joints, making staying straight on a highway more of a challenge than it needs to be. Is this a job I should do at the same time as my timing belt/waterpump replacement? Which brands are suitable replacements? I've heard Febi parts are good, Meyle are ok, but not as great, and then don't know whether to trust OEM or not. I've also seen kits by Ocap, which I've heard nothing about. Between these kits, which is the best choice?: Blauparts Ocap with improved tie-rod ends Any of these ECS complete kits. My VIN is WVWMA63B2XE163194, how do I know which kits I can get for my car, in the case of ECS? I can't figure out the significance of the leading "3-" in their product descriptions. Hunter2 Thompson fucked around with this message at 02:57 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 02:42
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el topo posted:That may be the same problem I had a while ago on my 2006 A4 (faulty brake switch). Things got handled fairly swiftly at the dealership after I told them what was wrong with it, but they weren't particularly helpful with the diagnosis. I had over 10 brake light switch replacements in my '01 Jetta. The brake lights would either stay on or not come on at all, but if the brake lights wouldn't come on, it also meant that the car wouldn't come out of park. Talk about a pain in the rear end. I got to where I would just buy a couple of switches and leave them in the car for when the current switch would inevitably fail.
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Jun 3, 2011 05:34
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Just moved to Germany and am considering a 2001 VW Golf 1.6 5-speed with 122,000 kms. Brand new timing belt. The 1.6 seems to be extremely popular over here, which I consider to be a good thing. That is, however, about the extent of my knowledge. Any notorious issues with this drivetrain? Anything to look out for specifically during an inspection/testdrive?
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Jun 3, 2011 06:13
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meatpotato posted:I just bought a B5 Passat with the 1.8T and a 5-speed. It's a 1999 with an AEB engine. It's currently at 82,750 miles. Not VW-related, but what happened to your BMW? I remember reading your thread about a year ago but I haven't seen it pop up recently.
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Jun 3, 2011 16:00
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SwashedBuckles posted:Not VW-related, but what happened to your BMW? I remember reading your thread about a year ago but I haven't seen it pop up recently. Wow, somebody remembers! It's still a project of mine, but I've had a lot less time to work on it since I've restarted school in the US. My current job has a machine shop, so I'm slowly taking advantage of that to make/modify parts. Right now I'm focusing on re-wiring MegaSquirt and fixing corners I cut when I rushed things the first time. To be honest, I could have it together and running in a couple of weekends but I just haven't had whole days to devote to it recently. This Passat will help though. The BMW was my only car and it was horrible to find out halfway through a job that I'd need a special tool or some tiny part I forgot, like a hoseclamp and not be able to drive and buy one.
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Jun 3, 2011 19:35
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meatpotato posted:This Passat will help though. The BMW was my only car and it was horrible to find out halfway through a job that I'd need a special tool or some tiny part I forgot, like a hoseclamp and not be able to drive and buy one. Get ready for special tools with a VW, they love them. Finding parts isn't too bad though.
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Jun 3, 2011 21:40
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Billy Tully posted:Get ready for special tools with a VW, they love them. Finding parts isn't too bad though. Jesus Christ, springs and shocks on my GTI was a loving nightmare. Might as well have had to import 17-point star sockets from Mars.
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Jun 3, 2011 21:50
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teh jhey posted:Jesus Christ, springs and shocks on my GTI was a loving nightmare. Might as well have had to import 17-point star sockets from Mars. What special tools did you need for that? The spreader?
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Jun 3, 2011 21:55
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Billy Tully posted:What special tools did you need for that? The spreader? The spreader, and some 12 point star for the pinch bolt, then a big triple square for axle bolts. Then we had to jury rig some allen wrench insanity to torque the top nut down onto the strut. Also, not a special tool, but the strut bearings are threaded, which means someone had to blindly drop bolts down from above while the other person lined up the whole assembly and held on for dear life. teh jhey fucked around with this message at 22:05 on Jun 3, 2011 |
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Jun 3, 2011 21:59
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teh jhey posted:The spreader, and some 12 point star for the pinch bolt, then a big triple square for axle bolts. What generation is it? On MK4s (and below) it should be a regular pinch bolt and you dont have to take the axle out if you drop the subframe a little on the passenger side. Im not sure what you mean by the threaded strut bearings, all Ive ever had to do is put the strut and spring together off the car then it was just the thin top bolt that held the "hat" on. There is a special tool (haha) for the top strut nut but Ive always used an impact gun for that.
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Jun 3, 2011 22:09
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Mulloy posted:A few months back my 2003 Passat just decided to leave its brake lights on for no reason and after a week or two it stopped. More recently, maybe a month ago, the cruise control ceased functioning. Then yesterday the brake lights simply ceased functioning. Replacing the brake light switch on your Passat is really easy and I believe the switch is around $25-$35. You might have to remove a plastic panel in the driver's side footwell to get to the switch (a couple of screws hold it on) but you twist it counter-clockwise to remove it and clockwise to install the new one. The switch has 2 tabs that act as locks when you twist it into place and they're shaped differently to match slots in the bracket where it's mounted. If you're nervous I can post some pics of the switch to give you a better idea of what it really looks like.
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Jun 4, 2011 03:14
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ShowTime posted:You were dead on with the fan resistor. They said the AC was fine, including fluid levels and all that. I guess it just doesn't feel as cold as it used to. But that could be because it's been something like 100 degrees everyday now and it's having a hard time getting such hot air so cool, I guess? It depends on exactly why the fluid is leaking. You could have just knocked the washer pump out of it's gasket which allows all the fluid out. If that's the case, you just press the pump back into place and you're done. If the washer jug is broken then it should take around an hour to replace it and I would guess the jug would be between $50-$85 but that's only a guess. I'd advice you to take the car to your VW dealer and tell them you're leaking washer fluid - they might just cover it under warranty anyway.
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Jun 4, 2011 03:19
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my1999gsr posted:It depends on exactly why the fluid is leaking. You could have just knocked the washer pump out of it's gasket which allows all the fluid out. If that's the case, you just press the pump back into place and you're done. If the washer jug is broken then it should take around an hour to replace it and I would guess the jug would be between $50-$85 but that's only a guess. I'd advice you to take the car to your VW dealer and tell them you're leaking washer fluid - they might just cover it under warranty anyway. Ah, ok then. I'll do that. Thanks.
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Jun 4, 2011 03:21
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meatpotato posted:I just bought a B5 Passat with the 1.8T and a 5-speed. It's a 1999 with an AEB engine. It's currently at 82,750 miles. The updated upper control arms have proven to be FAR superior to the original ones - it's very rare that we replace the newer pieces. I can't really comment on the non-VW parts since I don't have any experience with them.
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Jun 4, 2011 03:35
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Billy Tully posted:What generation is it? On MK4s (and below) it should be a regular pinch bolt and you dont have to take the axle out if you drop the subframe a little on the passenger side. Im not sure what you mean by the threaded strut bearings, all Ive ever had to do is put the strut and spring together off the car then it was just the thin top bolt that held the "hat" on. There is a special tool (haha) for the top strut nut but Ive always used an impact gun for that. If it's a triple-square pinch bolt then I'm guessing Mk5+.
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Jun 4, 2011 03:37
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my1999gsr posted:If it's a triple-square pinch bolt then I'm guessing Mk5+. Bingo. And by the bearing being threaded, I mean that instead of threaded posts that stick up out of the "hat", there are threaded holes that you have to drop bolts down into. The former is much easier in that you can just shove the posts up into the engine bay and thread nuts onto them. Much like the issue where, instead of lug nuts, the car has lug bolts, so you have to hold the wheel on the car with your knee, line everything up perfectly, and shove the bolts through. Has anyone determined a reason for that?
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Jun 4, 2011 05:27
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teh jhey posted:
I've read its so you don't drag the wheels across the threads on the bolts. The hub should support at least some of the weight, unless you have aftermarket wheels. BMW and Mercedes use lug bolts as well for most of their cars. If you remove your wheels often it might be worth getting on of these: http://oemplus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31_100&products_id=327
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Jun 4, 2011 19:38
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teh jhey posted:Bingo. I've got a long threaded rod for doing front struts - I just thread it into the hat and pull the whole strut assembly up into place so the bolts can reach the other holes. Not having wheel studs is a super pain in the rear end when you get into 20" rims because of the weight or even worse, aftermarket wheels that don't have a centering ring so you have to gradually tighten each wheel bolt by hand so that the bolt taper centers the wheel. No idea why German cars are like that - it's just part of their.... charm?
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Jun 4, 2011 20:41
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I feel like an idiot. I've been looking at used VW and Audi 1.8Ts between $5,000-$10,000 on Craigslist and typing in "Audi" yeilded a 2002 Audi TT for $9,000. I'm new to VW and Audis and always thought the TT was some crazy fast car. I didn't even realize it came with the 1.8T until today! Its also AWD though, maybe I'll look into these more. EDIT: Also, what's the deal with the 1.8T with the bigger turbo and addition intercooler? Super Aggro Crag fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Jun 5, 2011 |
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Jun 5, 2011 03:47
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Super Aggro Crag posted:I feel like an idiot. I've been looking at used VW and Audi 1.8Ts between $5,000-$10,000 on Craigslist and typing in "Audi" yeilded a 2002 Audi TT for $9,000. I'm new to VW and Audis and always thought the TT was some crazy fast car. I didn't even realize it came with the 1.8T until today! Its also AWD though, maybe I'll look into these more. The TT with the 225hp 1.8t is a big deal, otherwise no other 1.8t is anything special.
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Jun 5, 2011 04:14
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Is it a special badged Audi TT? I'm just wondering how to spot it via Craigslist ads.
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Jun 5, 2011 04:17
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Is it a special badged Audi TT? I'm just wondering how to spot it via Craigslist ads. It will cost a lot more than a regular TT unless the owner is clueless.
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Jun 5, 2011 04:20
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Super Aggro Crag posted:Is it a special badged Audi TT? I'm just wondering how to spot it via Craigslist ads. 225 hp TTs come with 2 exhaust tips and a 6-speed transmission only. 180 hp cars will have a 5-speed or tiptronic, depending on the year. They also came with only 1 exhaust tip, but aftermarket fake tips were sold. The engine bay also looks different from a 180 hp TT. Here's a 225. Note the orientation of the intake manifold and the height of the oil cap.  Here's a 180 hp car. 
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Jun 5, 2011 07:13
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poo poo. Started my 98 Jetta TDI up today and a light in the shape of a thermometer was blinking on the dash. Shut her down and looked under the hood and the coolant was well below the minimum. (To be clear, I didn't overheat, the car was just warning me of low fluid). I guess I'll try to get some G12 on Monday, and look for leaks. Think it's reasonable to drive the car if I keep an eye on the temperature gauge?
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Jun 5, 2011 10:43
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If anyone has a MK6 Golf/GTI/Jetta and you have excessive wind noise coming from the doors at high speed you can throw some electrical tape on the door latches to get rid of it. Worked great for me: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5214965-Driver-s-door-rattle-fixed.-Driver-s-door-wind-noise-fixed
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Jun 5, 2011 19:33
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The engine coolant temperature sensor on my 98 V6 Passat has gone bad. I've picked up a replacement (blue type) sensor, and have attempted to replace it, but my problem is that I can't for the life of me get the old one out. I've removed the spring clip that retains it, and even went as far as removing the intake pipe so that I could get some vice grips in there, but no luck getting it to budge. I assume that after 13 years, the original o-ring has turned to glue and it holding it in there. And advice on bow to get it out without breaking anything?
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Jun 5, 2011 19:57
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