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yeah not like that. You want to wrap it around basically like I have shown in my drawing. I actually cut out a section of belt and make a loop by drilling two holes and putting a bolt and washers through so it slips over the crank pulley. then I leave the rest of the belt just long enough to wrap around the two cam gears and then back under them. We're pulling a motor for a rebuild tomorrow so I can take some pictures. Another blue legacy gt wagon coincidentally. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Jun 7, 2011 |
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Jun 7, 2011 03:28
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jamal posted:We're pulling a motor for a rebuild tomorrow so I can take some pictures. Another blue legacy gt wagon coincidentally. Tell him to put in an LSD.
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Jun 7, 2011 04:37
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So a few weeks ago it was time for a tranny oil change. On my last drive before the change I was on the highway at around 80ish in fifth gear. I let out the throttle to stop accelerating and the gear slipped out with out me knowing. When I pressed on the throttle again the RPMs started to rise, so I looked down and a saw that the car wasn't in gear. I rev matched and tried to shift back into fifth but all I got was a horrible grind. So I shifted to fourth and kept going. A little while later I shifted into fifth and everything was fine. So I did the oil change, and I put in Uncle Scotty's Cocktail, as the guy before me used a mix of RL Shockproof and something else, so It would be to drastic a change. When I was wiping off the magnet on the plug bolt it had these wonderful shavings on it: I have no idea where these came from so I'm kinda asking for some help here. The bit on the upper right is actually black rubber that I can squeeze with my fingernails and not pictured is a little red/orange that was tiny and could fit inside one of the bends of the shaving on the lower left. The were no other noticeable shavings/filings present not even on the paper towel that I used to wipe the plug clean. I drove fine for a few days but then it came back. I have a video here of the shifter walking back and forth with the throttle, forward when I let off the gas and back when I press a little bit. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D0SBZSiSFHA My dad said that he doesn't think those are from a gear but maybe from a bearing. I did some research I read online that it might be the fork, or the ball bearing that keeps the gear from backing out, or a loose nut, or the bushing, and I really hope that I don't need a rebuild. The car has 111,xxx miles on it, it's Cobb stage 2 with a downpipe and and an exhaust, and a short throw shifter. And in the two years that I owned it I haven't been beating on it too much. Just some pulls from second or third gear, and I hardly ever launched. Also, I have absolutely no problems with any other gears at all. Thanks for any input and sorry for the dissertation.
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Jun 7, 2011 07:02
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I used a strap wrench around the pulleys to get them off. The strap piece fits between the the two pulleys with a little effort. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-piece-rubber-strap-wrench-set-94119.html 
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Jun 7, 2011 11:09
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nm posted:I think they're cursed. ABP or the dark one? I love the darker color. I blew up a dark blue LGT in december. They're all cursed. Still miss that car 
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Jun 7, 2011 11:37
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Lowclock posted:Impact gun or rope trick. Jamal, pics would be awesome. In the meantime I'm going to pick up the set of strap wrenches daslog mentioned above and give it a shot with those. I'll let you know how that works out. I'm also interested in a spare EJ25D (car is a 97 Legacy Outback) cam sprocket if you happen to have any lying around the shop. I need the upper right-hand one, the top one of the two you have circled in your picture. I'll pay whatever you ask, because it'll be cheaper than going to the dealership regardless.
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Jun 7, 2011 14:50
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Anyone have a spare TMIC for a Legacy GT or 08+ WRX burning a hole in their pocket? Found a leak in mine yesterday. JB Welded it to buy some time, but I'd like to replace it sooner rather than later.
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Jun 7, 2011 15:15
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Jared592 posted:Believe it or not, a 450 ft/lb-rated impact would not budge these, though I did have to use a U-joint just to get it to fit in there (doing this with engine in-car). I had to use this with a 5-foot piece of pipe on it to break the first one loose. These are on tight. part number is 13044AA020 and from subarugenuineparts.com it's $80. Our machine shop might have some around and we've got to drop stuff off today so I'll check. passenger intake, right?
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Jun 7, 2011 17:34
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I've been having a persistent misfire/hesitation occuring at low load around 2700 RPM (gets much worse when the A/C is on, to the point where shifts that end up at this RPM are rather rough). The misfire is not severe enough to trigger a code for some reason, despite being audible in neutral if I keep the revs between 2500 and 3000. I logged for a while to see what was up, and it looks like cylinder 3 in particular is misfiring. I had been told by a shop in the past that it was likely a coil problem, and replaced the coil, but the problem is starting up again. I also have a loud, high-pitched whistling that's coming from the area of the right side of the intercooler (perspective being when I'm standing in front with the hood up). However, the whistling only seems to happen after the BPV vents, which makes me think it must be the BPV gasket. Does this seem correct? Is it likely just exacerbating the cylinder 3 misfire, or does it seem more likely to be the cause of the misfire? And, how difficult is it to replace the BPV gasket yourself? It doesn't look too difficult to get to... Edit: some car info would probably be helpful. It's a 2009 STi, and the BPV has been crushed (I might just replace it with an aftermarket BPV if anyone has recommendations). BobTheFerret fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jun 7, 2011 |
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Jun 7, 2011 18:08
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coilpacks hardly ever go bad on these things. is it modified to the point you can't bring it to the dealer? stock injectors? It does also sound like the BPV is leaking which is easy to fix. The are two bolts, just don't cross thread them into the soft aluminum intercooler (I see it happen a lot). jamal fucked around with this message at 18:41 on Jun 7, 2011 |
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Jun 7, 2011 18:32
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jamal posted:coilpacks hardly ever go bad on these things. is it modified to the point you can't bring it to the dealer? stock injectors? While you're at it, swap that BPV for a BOV like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5mrQmQ_W8E&t=20s
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Jun 7, 2011 18:50
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clearly you need an hks ssqv
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Jun 7, 2011 19:02
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http://www.scoobymods.com/mod-transfer-case-removal-5th-t6049.html?t=6049 Well I found that after some more searching. I hope this is it, and that I didn't wait too long to fix it.
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Jun 7, 2011 23:07
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Amandyke posted:While you're at it, swap that BPV for a BOV like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5mrQmQ_W8E&t=20s I've heard of the duck call BOV before, and it's hilarious. I'm going to go back to stock soon - the mechanics at the dealer near me have basically told me that the bits that have broken that I've had to fix in the past are definitely under warranty, and that they'd be happy to do warranty work on it, but they don't feel comfortable working on cars that have been "heavily modified" (read: more than an intake and a catback). Jamal posted:coilpacks hardly ever go bad on these things. is it modified to the point you can't bring it to the dealer? stock injectors? Non-stock injectors (1000CC), intake, electronic boost controller, TGV deletes, up-pipe, external wastegate, downpipe. Stock catback. I went a little crazy with the modifications trying to prepare for a bigger turbo in the future, which was fun, until things started to break. Wouldn't be a problem if I weren't in the middle of nowhere, with no access to a garage... I feel pretty ridiculous sometimes with how loud the unsilenced intake and bypass valve venting sound are as it is. The EWG was my alternative to a much louder catback, since the car sounds downright quiet cruising around town. Honestly, I'd like the car to stay quiet, as well as be quite a bit faster than stock, but that doesn't really seem to be something that's catered to.
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Jun 8, 2011 03:34
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ok you have a bad injector, leak at the tgv delete, or a cracked ringland.
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Jun 8, 2011 04:46
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jamal posted:part number is 13044AA020 and from subarugenuineparts.com it's $80. Our machine shop might have some around and we've got to drop stuff off today so I'll check. passenger intake, right?
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Jun 8, 2011 12:52
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vreUlIu3-x4&feature=youtu.be How much stupidity can you see in this video? Sometimes, I hate being a subaru owner.
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Jun 8, 2011 15:02
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c355n4 posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vreUlIu3-x4&feature=youtu.be
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Jun 8, 2011 15:27
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That whole video is painful. No helmets, spectators hanging over a barrier on the outside of a turn, PEOPLE STOPPING ON THE TRACK AND GETTING OUT OF THEIR CARS!??!?! What a horrible organization, whoever ran that...
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Jun 8, 2011 15:34
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While I know it's a youtube comment, it pretty much summed up my thoughtsquote:..."I caught that whole thing!"...and the car hasn't even finished coming to a stop. Got to love this YouTube generation!..
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Jun 8, 2011 15:34
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Is that even an actual racetrack? No track would allow that. Google indicates that the track is currently not in operation, so maybe they snuck on?
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Jun 8, 2011 16:15
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Blaise posted:That whole video is painful. No helmets, spectators hanging over a barrier on the outside of a turn, PEOPLE STOPPING ON THE TRACK AND GETTING OUT OF THEIR CARS!??!?!
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Jun 8, 2011 16:20
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I just notice the red honda put on its 4-ways. That'll help.
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Jun 8, 2011 16:24
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Oh LegacyGT.com...quote:Sorry for the delay. Anywho new intercooler is $4k, so this one being in very good condition, let's say $1k or so. Complete air filter housing is $760, so let's say $200 or so; again in very good condition. Engine cover is $800 () let's say $250 or so. Radiator brace is over $200, I forgot exactly how much, but $100 should do it. You pay shipping on the intercooler, I'll pay shipping on the rest. Not trying to rob anybody, just hate to see almost new parts go to waste. Thanks. welp.
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Jun 8, 2011 17:13
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Bud Manstrong posted:Oh LegacyGT.com... ffffffffffffffff Looks like he fixed it though. Sure hope he never buys anything from that dealer...
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Jun 8, 2011 17:32
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Holy gently caress, it gets better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPpdN-8zC9U&feature=player_embedded Where is track safety, track officials, event officials, ambulance, tow? Who the gently caress are all these random "bros" on the track. Evidently this was a http://cscs.ca/ Event? Goddamn.
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Jun 8, 2011 17:35
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Bud Manstrong posted:Oh LegacyGT.com...
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Jun 8, 2011 18:09
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nm posted:I just notice the red honda put on its 4-ways. That'll help. I personally like the fat chick getting out of the passenger seat that runs like Forrest Gump
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Jun 8, 2011 18:37
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After my '09 Impreza 2.5i has sat parked for a long while - defined as definitely after parking overnight, but not after even an hour at a store - when I first start rolling forwards I hear some sort of noise that sounds like it's coming from the front end. So essentially I'll start the car, release the parking brake, pop it into reverse, back up, then stop, shift to first, and start moving and after a moment, maybe after the first full rotation of the wheels(approximately?) there's a single sort of thunk and after that things are fine. No more noises follow, and I don't hear it again during any shifting, any stop/start traffic, etc - it's only after it's been sitting for an extended period. Any ideas what this might be before I leave it with the dealership overnight so they can hunt it down?
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Jun 8, 2011 18:49
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Do you live in a salt state and/or does this happen only after rain or snow?
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Jun 8, 2011 19:56
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nm posted:Do you live in a salt state and/or does this happen only after rain or snow? I live in Colorado and information is conflicting, but points towards no salt, instead prefering sand and/or MgCl. Though this does appear to happen after any parking more than a few hours, regardless of recent precipitation.
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Jun 8, 2011 20:23
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Nice Subaru service manager reloaed the ECU of the WRX last night - and the mysterious issue turned out to be a Denso programming issue in the ECU that allows the voltages to be interpeted as a fault. I like a working WRX. I also like one that is rather more responsive than I remember, the issue must have been causing problems for longer than I realised
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Jun 8, 2011 22:32
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I recall reading something on nasioc that said it was something to do with the ABS system initializing? Mine does it too.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:42
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Is it possible to "stretch out" or damage the socket in the control arm that holds the bushing? After my ALK bushing came loose, we put the stock bushing back in, which also came loose. Now I'm thinking we might have stretched or damaged that hole with the press, and I might be out a brand new control arm.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:48
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Cat Terrist posted:Nice Subaru service manager reloaed the ECU of the WRX last night - and the mysterious issue turned out to be a Denso programming issue in the ECU that allows the voltages to be interpeted as a fault. And your "slow" WRX was faster than your STi. Now what? 
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Jun 8, 2011 23:08
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blargle posted:Is it possible to "stretch out" or damage the socket in the control arm that holds the bushing? After my ALK bushing came loose, we put the stock bushing back in, which also came loose. Now I'm thinking we might have stretched or damaged that hole with the press, and I might be out a brand new control arm. steel or al? seems possible. If the alk got cranked in at a funny angle it could mess up the arm for sure. You could get a new arm or have it staked or welded to keep it in place. I've done a bunch of them and have never had the bushing slide out of the control arm. Have had a couple destroy themselves but that seems to usually be because they were put in at the wrong angle or upside down or something.
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Jun 9, 2011 00:56
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I think the stock arms are steel on the WRX. Will pick up a new one up tomorrow and try again.
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Jun 9, 2011 01:16
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if it's a wrx then yes, steel. You could have them make a couple spot welds around the top and bottom of the arm to keep the alk in place. Or maybe just hit it really hard with a hammer.
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Jun 9, 2011 01:44
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I bought a 2011 WRX (Black) in April and after a few hundred miles, it seems to have developed a sound that Subaru cannot duplicate or find an issue with. It now has 1970 or so miles and I am a bit concerned. Description of issue - Sounds like something is clicking (clunking?) into position. Almost like an old AC unit engaging but it sounds more hollow and the sound can be heard from slightly different places underneath the car. The sound can be heard from outside the vehicle but is more pronounced inside. The sound is coming from underneath and mostly just in front middle of the driver and passenger seats. Here is how I can duplicate the sound most of the time and it seems to be worse in colder weather: 1) Back or pull into a parking space 2) Set the e-brake and leave the shifter in the middle (neutral) 3) AC can be on or off 4) Wait about 4.5+ hours, the longer the louder the sound to a point 5) Get in car and start it 6) Press the break and clutch 7) Put the car in gear, mostly reverse gear 8) Put down the e-brake 9) Go back or forward (forward would be an additional step of moving the shifter from reverse to first) 10) Sound will come from underneath the car, with and without the clutch being engaged. My locks do not auto lock and I do not have any real fancy options to cause any noises. Hopefully that was detailed enough. The car is amazing in all other aspects and this is my first WRX so I would like it to be 100%. I can get pics later if anyone is interested. draccio fucked around with this message at 02:28 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 02:25
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2153168 Looking at this bugeye, any red flags stick out? Test drove it last week and it pulls strong and transmission/clutch felt strong. As he notes on the last page there is a slight stutter in lower gears at low revs. What might that be a sign of? I think I can pick it up for <11k including a compression/leakdown and a new tune. Seems like a lot of power for the $.
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Jun 9, 2011 03:29
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