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Bad Munki posted:Looking for a finish that is both food-safe, alcohol-proof, and doesn't look like poo poo. Is there such a thing? Don't know if this ever got answered, outa curiousity what are you finishing? food-safe, alcohol proof, and doesn't look like poo poo? I finished a cutting board with the woodwhispere's recommended food-safe varnish (salad bowl oil) that was thinned out and soaked into wood grain. That cutting board looks nice, is food safe, and AFAIK not at risk from alcohol. You might be looking for a bar finish maybe?
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Jun 8, 2011 19:39
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Novelty wooden shot glasses, if possible.
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Jun 8, 2011 19:42
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bEatmstrJ posted:I would like to build this box (case?). How badly do you want the mitered corners? Your table saw would probably be the best tool for cutting them. I've tried them before when making a box and had a difficult time getting them lined up perfectly, and it wasn't very strong, even with biscuits. Are you going to be able to see the inside of the box? If not you could assemble it with kreg screws, which is a nice thing to own anyway. Also, are you talking about using panels made from glued-up boards or plywood?
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Jun 8, 2011 20:22
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Elston Gunn posted:How badly do you want the mitered corners? Your table saw would probably be the best tool for cutting them. I've tried them before when making a box and had a difficult time getting them lined up perfectly, and it wasn't very strong, even with biscuits. Are you going to be able to see the inside of the box? If not you could assemble it with kreg screws, which is a nice thing to own anyway. Also, are you talking about using panels made from glued-up boards or plywood? Yeah, these questions would help. If you plan to use only four big boards, I'd say the only good way is something like a lock-miter joint. I'm not sure if there's any way other than a router table to make these, though. If multiple pieces per panel, you could use your pick of box joint, then overlay the mitered pieces, like they were just really simple modling. Any way you go, the precision of those miters is going to be critical, so take that into consideration (e.g. read stuff and run tests if you don't know how to ensure your cuts will fit tightly).
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Jun 8, 2011 21:18
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Cobalt60 posted:Yeah, these questions would help. If you plan to use only four big boards, I'd say the only good way is something like a lock-miter joint. I'm not sure if there's any way other than a router table to make these, though. I was planning on using a glue up of pine boards. I do have a router table and the inside of the box probably wont be visible while its in use. I probably wouldnt be opposed to another kind of corner joint as long as I can keep my mitered front faces.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:23
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bEatmstrJ posted:I have a table saw, miter saw, router, jigsaw, 3 long bar clamps, 2 short bar clamps, 2 corner clamps, a bunch of spring clamps and some other stuff. 45° Lock Miter Router Bit is probably the easiest way and eliminates the need for dowels or biscuits; and you can cover the lock joint with a face frame. stubblyhead posted:...but I would like to keep the color as long as possible. Look for a polyurethane with UV inhibitors, probably in the deck stain/finish area. Laminator posted:...should be slightly waterproof to handle glasses of water on the top occasionally. Any suggestions? I would rub on some thinned satin varnish or poly, or alternately buy a can of spray lacquer. For more contrast you could use a dark wood filler, which should stay in the pores but not change the overall color. I would test it on an inconspicuous spot first.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:39
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wormil posted:45° Lock Miter Router Bit is probably the easiest way and eliminates the need for dowels or biscuits; and you can cover the lock joint with a face frame. That bit looks like the way to go. Thanks for the info. Looks like a bitch to setup, but should accomplish what I need. So tell me more about this face frame. How does that work?
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Jun 8, 2011 23:53
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bEatmstrJ posted:That bit looks like the way to go. Thanks for the info. Looks like a bitch to setup, but should accomplish what I need. So tell me more about this face frame. How does that work? Same thing you called mitered front faces, just decorative pieces of wood that attach to the front and cover the joints.
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Jun 9, 2011 03:36
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wormil posted:I would rub on some thinned satin varnish or poly, or alternately buy a can of spray lacquer. For more contrast you could use a dark wood filler, which should stay in the pores but not change the overall color. I would test it on an inconspicuous spot first. 1:1 ratio of thinner to varnish?
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Jun 9, 2011 04:54
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wormil posted:Same thing you called mitered front faces, just decorative pieces of wood that attach to the front and cover the joints. Know of any videos/tutorials for something like this? Do I just make a thin frame and glue it to the front of the other one? How would I clamp it down with the front mitered edges?
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Jun 9, 2011 05:24
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Laminator posted:1:1 ratio of thinner to varnish? There is no magic ratio, the more you thin it, the thinner the film finish so you'll have to judge based on how much protection versus appearance. You can always add more coats easily but it's a pain in the rear end to remove coats. bEatmstrJ posted:Know of any videos/tutorials for something like this? Do I just make a thin frame and glue it to the front of the other one? How would I clamp it down with the front mitered edges? Here's one based on using a Kreg but you can adjust for biscuits, dowels, or just glue. Alternatively, you can 'Norm it' and use a combination of glue and pin nails.
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Jun 9, 2011 07:51
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bEatmstrJ posted:That bit looks like the way to go. Thanks for the info. Looks like a bitch to setup, but should accomplish what I need. So tell me more about this face frame. How does that work? Keep in mind you need a pretty beefy router and alot of patience to get a lock miter bit to work properly. My best advice would be to run the 45 to within an 1/8" of your final size and then use the lock miter to finish it out. What kind of router do you have? I've tried using them with a Triton 3 1/4HP 10 Amp, a Mastercraft Maximum 2HP 11 Amp and an older Bosch and none of them got through easily...
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Jun 9, 2011 13:43
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bEatmstrJ posted:I would like to build this box (case?). Your miter and table saw will take care of all of the corners. Depending what you are going to use the box for, just gluing the joints and clamping it for 24 hours should suffice. I'm not sure how easy Biscuit joints would be with the mitered edge. Also, buying two Merle Adjustable Clamps would help you immensely for clamping the whole thing together. I bought one a few months ago and have used it in just about all my projects so far. If you're going to go the 45* Miter Lock Joint, buy extra pieces of the wood you're going to use. Or have scraps around that are the same thickness and take your time setting up the router right so that all of your joints line up. It will save you a lot of headache down the line in your project. jvick fucked around with this message at 16:49 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 16:44
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wormil posted:Here's one based on using a Kreg but you can adjust for biscuits, dowels, or just glue. Alternatively, you can 'Norm it' and use a combination of glue and pin nails. Did you have a link you meant to post? MarshallX posted:Keep in mind you need a pretty beefy router and alot of patience to get a lock miter bit to work properly. My best advice would be to run the 45 to within an 1/8" of your final size and then use the lock miter to finish it out. I'm using a Rigid 2 1/4HP combo router that I have mounted in a cheap table. Seems pretty beefy. Though I haven't figured out how to tackle the vertical piece with the lock miter yet.
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Jun 9, 2011 18:23
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Can anyone tell me a good place to buy inlay banding. Can't find any in town here and I imagine trying to make some myself would loving suck. Woodcraft and Rockler really dont seem to have much selection.
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Jun 9, 2011 20:07
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MarshallX posted:My best advice would be to run the 45 to within an 1/8" of your final size and then use the lock miter to finish it out. Good point, hog out the miter with your tablesaw before finishing with a router. bEatmstrJ posted:Did you have a link you meant to post? Dammit... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7YEWn1HArI
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Jun 10, 2011 08:02
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wormil posted:Dammit... Kreg sells an enthusiasts model which is a jig for your drill. It's pretty cheap and very neat. Edit: Here we go: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LnhMFNqRZ4&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL Iskariot fucked around with this message at 10:45 on Jun 10, 2011 |
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Jun 10, 2011 10:27
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I actually have an old Kreg Jig, similar to what is now called the Jr. but without the fancy doodads. I keep meaning to upgrade to either the regular kit or master system, I would use it more often.
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Jun 10, 2011 20:42
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After failing miserably at trying to cut a hole with a jigsaw and string, I found this video for making a jig. http://www.5min.com/Video/How-to-Cut-a-Circle-in-Plywood-193901440
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Jun 11, 2011 22:45
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wormil posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7YEWn1HArI I want that wide belt sander! 
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Jun 12, 2011 03:03
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I made this little travel trunk for my bike the other day out of some wall panels, belts and some old couch lining  
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Jun 12, 2011 03:21
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Gen. Specific posted:I made this little travel trunk for my bike the other day out of some wall panels, belts and some old couch lining Holy crap, man! That is absolutely gorgeous!!! Where did you get the leather belts from?
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Jun 15, 2011 01:25
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Just from an op (charity?) clothes shop, I think it was $2 for the brown one and like 30 cents for the hinge belt
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Jun 15, 2011 04:39
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Out of curiosity, how hard do people think it'd be to make table legs similar to this: http://www.chajo.com/work_big_tables/sausalito_table.html If you didn't want to put the curve in it then no big deal, but it looks like two pieces of equal length joined to the bottom piece...can't tell what kind of joint that is but I figure that'd be the trickiest part, and then connected at the top to a flat top piece that is used to connect to the table top. It doesn't SEEM that difficult in theory, but for some people that don't have a large amount of wood working experience, maybe it ends up being a pain? I'm not sure. This is all part of a theoretical table that we may build at some point...
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Jun 15, 2011 18:34
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Levitate posted:If you didn't want to put the curve in it then no big deal, but it looks like two pieces of equal length joined to the bottom piece...can't tell what kind of joint that is but I figure that'd be the trickiest part, and then connected at the top to a flat top piece that is used to connect to the table top. Not that difficult. The curve would be simple with a band saw, you could also jig saw it but it would need a little more cleanup. The bottom is a 45 but I wouldn't rely on a butt joint so I'd have to think it out, maybe a mortise and tenon on a 45, you could also use a loose tenon or biscuits but I'd probably bring the legs all the way to the floor and dovetail the bottom piece into the legs. I like simplicity.
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Jun 15, 2011 22:03
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I'm in the market for a lathe. Can anyone tell me why this: ebay lathe is too good to be true for woodturning?
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Jun 16, 2011 22:53
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Kudaros posted:I'm in the market for a lathe. Can anyone tell me why this: ebay lathe is too good to be true for woodturning? Very similar to the Harbor Freight lathe for $199
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Jun 17, 2011 03:56
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Soooo...don't leave a piece you just Spar Varnished sitting on newspaper to dry.
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Jun 17, 2011 16:02
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Kudaros posted:I'm in the market for a lathe. Can anyone tell me why this: ebay lathe is too good to be true for woodturning? It is. Buy or download a copy of Ernie Conover's book "The Frugal Woodturner" which is THE BEST definitive book by a great woodturner on how to get into turning cheaply, and not regret purchases. It talks all about lathes and what's important.
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Jun 17, 2011 17:40
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MarshallX posted:Soooo...don't leave a piece you just Spar Varnished sitting on newspaper to dry. I made that mistake once too. Never again. I left it straight on the concrete the next time. I hear the best method is to put some nails in a board and let it rest on top of the nail heads.
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Jun 17, 2011 22:54
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bEatmstrJ posted:I would like to build this box (case?). A lot of guys have already given some good advice, but I'm going to put in my two cents anyway. If you want to make well fitted mitered box like the one you've pictured, the key (as in all precision woodworking,) is proper tool setup. From the looks of it, you want to build something like this(?):  or are you leaving the front/back/top/bottom (?) open? If you're mitering the front on, lock miters are an excellent choice. When done in the correct order, the miters will hold the whole box together as well as keep the whole box square. Just prepare the pieces by cutting them to the exact size that you want each face of the box to be. Now, if you're not going to put a front on, like pictured above, I would suggest 45s cut on the table saw and biscuits to hold the whole thing together. Most Biscuit joiners have a 45 degree setting that allows you to reference off the heel of the joint and line it up that way. I only suggest this method over lock mitering because I prefer the aesthetic quality of a straight miter over a lock miter, but to each his own. I used biscuits for this:   The edge is rounded as part of the design, but you obviously wouldn't have to do that. Skinny Bins fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Jun 18, 2011 |
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Jun 18, 2011 19:33
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I'm building something too! I was painting my girlfriend's bedroom walls while she's away on a family vacation, and I noticed that she needs a better way to store all her vinyl. Right now she has two plastic crates filled and the rest of the records just sit on the floor, maybe enough to fill another crate. I've taken woodshop class and a drafting class in highschool, and even built a crappy desk in Iraq, but this will be my first 'grown-up' build. So, I'm excited is what I'm trying to say. Reading almost every page of this thread really motivated me. This is a concept of a shelf that I drew.  I made some design changes to improve the strength and also to take advantage of common lumber dimensions that I looked up on Lowes.com  I cut these out to use as stencils in order to speed up the dovetail process.  I'll be getting the lumber in a few hours and I'll post some more pics when I get some actual work done. The only tools I really have that are relevant for this project is a hacksaw and a dremel, but I think I'll be ok since I'm going to use 1/2"x3" boards. We painted a lot of her vintage bedroom furniture eggshell white, but I think I want to use some oil or wax, something light, to make it stand out. Plus I think it would be cool if there was still some vague 'crate' personality in the finished product. and I want to show off those dovetails!
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Jun 19, 2011 12:31
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Isaac Asimov posted:The only tools I really have that are relevant for this project is a hacksaw and a dremel, but I think I'll be ok since I'm going to use 1/2"x3" boards. Cool project, I can't wait to see the finished shelf. May want to consider a backsaw for cutting all those dovetails.
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Jun 19, 2011 18:48
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I apologize if this has been covered somewhere in the thread. I tried to search it down and couldn't find this mentioned. Lumber.... I was building a couple of small pine boxes this weekend for random tasks and to start getting my feet wet into woodworking, which I think I may want to turn into my new main hobby. I was using 1x12 pine and based on what I'd read that meant that the boards were really .75 x 11.25. So what do I find when I get my 1x12 pine home from Lowes? One 8 foot run of it is .75 x 11.125, the other is .625 x 10.75. So what gives? The standard names aren't the real measurments, but then the real measurements aren't even the REAL measurements? Is this totally normal? Every board has to be planed for width and thickness to even come close to building things accurately? Or is the quality of stock from Lowes that bad and not even good enough to learn on? Methinks I'm off to the libary.
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Jun 19, 2011 18:58
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Most of the lumber from big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot is targeted at the construction industry - they are looking for standard sizes that can be relied on for strength. A quarter of an inch here and there isn't a huge deal for this use. For fine woodworking, you need to go through the lumber pile with a tape measure and calipers to find the few boards that are good enough (usually <5% of the stock). Better still, find a better source for your lumber  Some people are lucky enough to have a good lumber yard near them with properly planed stock. I buy mine from woodworkerssource.com (a great selection but shipping costs are fairly high). dja98 fucked around with this message at 23:00 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 19:05
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dja98 posted:Some people are lucky enough to have a good lumber yard near them with properly planed stock. I buy mine from woodsourceonline.com (a great selection but shipping costs are fairly high). Did you mean woodsource.com? Woodsourceonline appears to be a hardwood flooring distributor in Dallas, but their website is so bad it's hard to be sure.
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Jun 19, 2011 21:32
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dja98 posted:Most of the lumber from big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot is targeted at the construction industry - they are looking for standard sizes that can be relied on for strength. A quarter of an inch here and there isn't a huge deal for this use. Thanks for the heads up. Anyway, I picked up a couple of books from the library. I'm going to wade through them this afternoon. Also, we have one of these in town: http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ so I'll prolly roll down there over lunch this week or next once I get an idea of what I want to tackle next.
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Jun 19, 2011 21:38
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wormil posted:Cool project, I can't wait to see the finished shelf. May want to consider a backsaw for cutting all those dovetails. Man I knew I wasn't crazy. I just measured these boards that I bought and they are 2.5", not 3"... That is really irritating, because I changed all my stencils to work with exactly 3", now all the angles are off. FFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF Whatever, I can make it work. I bought some low gloss tung oil too based on the recommendations in this thread.
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Jun 19, 2011 21:51
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stubblyhead posted:Did you mean woodsource.com? Woodsourceonline appears to be a hardwood flooring distributor in Dallas, but their website is so bad it's hard to be sure. Sorry - looks like my brain failed me. I meant woodworkerssource.com
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Jun 19, 2011 23:00
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"Got stairs in your house?" "I'm not protected!" Well I just fell on my back, then slid down about 10-11 stairs in my house. It hurt like hell for about 2 minutes and there might be bruising which is a good indicator of how hard I fell since it don't bruise. The stairs are currently old wood ones that are painted with about 80 years of oil based paint. I was walking in my socks (mistake number on) and slipped. I'm intending on replacing them with some oak ones that I'll slap some polyurethane on, but that will be just as slippery. What can I do to not make my stairs a deathtrap? I know there are those brass covers that attach to the edge of the step, but I'd like to go with an option that doesn't cover the wood I'll eventually put on them. Is there a no-slip poly finish out there, maybe something with granules in it to increase traction but still looks good? I really want to make sure this doesn't happen again, and if it had happened to my wife I'm sure she would have broken a few dozen bones as she is 5'7", 98lbs and doesn't have the insulation I have (thick skin and a respectable rear end for a white guy).
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Jun 20, 2011 02:41
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