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Chernobyl Prize posted:Carfax came back with an accident from the first owner but it has no details and the current owner claims to have not known about it nor is he able to detect where an accident might have occurred on the car. Run away. 325s are a dime a dozen, there is no reason to go near one with an unknown accident. Or even go near any car with an unkknown accident in its past.
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Jun 8, 2011 00:45
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Chernobyl Prize posted:It's a 2006 325i with 104,000 miles vs wait for a good ZHP Really, truly, strongly consider travelling if you find a good ZHP. They are better cars in every way, and since they are far more maintainable, once out of warranty they will age better.
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Jun 8, 2011 01:19
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Chernobyl Prize posted:It's a 2006 325i with 104,000 miles Don't bother. There's nothing special about that car to make it worth that price and hassle. It's a uber common automatic 325i, has higher than average miles, had an accident bad enough to show up on Carfax. The price isn't nearly good enough to justify that. If you're hunting for ZHPs/330s, you'll regret getting a 325i pretty fast. At least get a 330, it's worth it. I was on the ZHP hunt, but I found a beautiful loaded black/black 2004 330Ci 6MT with 55k miles, a clean carfax, and extra set of wheels with Blizzaks for about the same price as that 325. It's not a ZHP, but the performance difference is pretty minimal and I actually prefer the silver trim and Style 71s to the ZHP shadowline trim (on a black car) and Style 135s. Edit: Also, the 2006 is an E90. A good E46 ZHP/330 looks waaaay better than one of those pre-facelift E90s. Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:26 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 01:19
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Thanks guys. I think I will try to be patient and wait for the right ZHP. On the other hand... 2004 M3 for $15,500! http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2424093088.html And now I know what "reconstructed title" means.
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Jun 8, 2011 01:25
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Chernobyl Prize posted:I've never had a BMW but I've decided I want one. I've been watching craigslist and ebay waiting for a good ZHP in my area (Oregon) but they seem to mostly be in the south and east coast. If you're willing to drive to LA, they have a number of ZHPs on sale at any given point. Except this guy... http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2413680302.html is some guy who seems to be unable to get rid of his vehicle. If its the same guy, he wants to sell this so he can go and buy a huge SUV for his family. Its been about 5 months and he's been having a hard time selling the car. THis seems nice: http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.j...&standard=false
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Jun 8, 2011 01:27
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Sterndotstern posted:They are better cars in every way, and since they are far more maintainable, once out of warranty they will age better. What do you mean by this? The fact that they're a little more special so the original owner is more likely to have taken good care of it?
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Jun 8, 2011 01:27
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Shadowhand00 posted:If you're willing to drive to LA, they have a number of ZHPs on sale at any given point. Except this guy... Thanks. I really like the car in the 2nd link. Forgive my ignorance but why are the BMW emblems red/white instead of blue/white? Does it have something to do with that big pink sticker on the window?
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Jun 8, 2011 01:32
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It's a little personalization people like to do. These days you can get the roundel in just about any color combination if you look for it. So I did the CCV/oil separator today. Man that thing was a pain in the rear end, it is DEEP in there and there is almost no room to maneuver. I'm really glad I bought all the hoses. Mine didn't break like in the DIY videos, but they looked pretty dirty, and I never want to get in there again. Mini-goose in the intake is now gone! I still seem to have a air-rush sound when I first hit the throttle. I'm guessing there's a bit of an air leak, I didn't replace the intake boots (finances) but it almost sounds like it's coming from the top of the intake manifold. Anyone have a good way of diagnosing this stuff? Also I think I'm going to need to page Dr. Vanos soon, goddam I need a shorter commute so I can stop putting miles on my baby.
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Jun 8, 2011 01:37
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Chernobyl Prize posted:Thanks. I really like the car in the 2nd link. Forgive my ignorance but why are the BMW emblems red/white instead of blue/white? Does it have something to do with that big pink sticker on the window? Looks like he changed them because he thinks they are awesome. I think it looks kinda tacky to be honest. I also just saw this car here (but Florida) http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=830142 Are you looking for Manual or Automatic? This one's manual, but in Texas (road trip!) http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=849226
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Jun 8, 2011 01:38
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BraveUlysses posted:For anyone who is curious, swapping the z3 1.9L steering rack is loving awesome. 2.7 turns ltl! you mean onto an e30 or e36? I plan to do this for my e30 318is track car, looking forward to cutting a hole into the firewall for proper fit 
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Jun 8, 2011 01:43
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Just filled up my tank for the third time since I've owned my 330, and for the third time the car nailed its own MPG calculation down to the decimal point compared to the manual trip odo/gallons filled calculation. I'm super impressed, especially since each tank was very different driving styles. Tank 1: 22.5mpg - enjoying new car's gas pedal, pretty even mix of city/highway Tank 2: 26.8mpg - 75/25 highway/city, moderate aggressiveness, cruising 75-80 Tank 3: 20.6mpg - super lead foot on fun drives, rest mostly city & commuting in traffic Amazing that it's getting about the same fuel economy as my old Miata despite an extra 1000 pounds, 1.2 liters, and 2 cylinders. Seems it really is getting nearly 30mpg cruising on the freeway at ~75mph, as indicated by the instantaneous MPG gauge. Hurray modern technology (and super tall sixth gears)! Guinness fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 01:46
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I just took a long drive and managed 26 MPG with my 540i doing about 75-80 ish. Its amazing what these cars will do if you keep your foot out of them. The spouse's X3 just pulled an amazing 25 MPG. Pretty drat good for a AWD SUV with a great engine. RapeWhistle: I will pester the crap out of you until you tell us about that 7 series. Looks like it would be a really amazing road car. edit:vvvv - And even when you do have your foot in them, they still get reasonable MPG's. BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 01:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Its amazing what these cars will do if you keep your foot out of them. That's the hard part though, because it's also amazing what these cars will do if you really put your foot into them. I used to get such poo poo gas mileage in my old E34 535i 5MT back in the day. That M30 was unbelievably bulletproof, but it was an ancient and thirsty beast even by 1990 standards (it evolved from the 1961 M10). I'd be lucky to get 21-22mpg on the freeway, and would get 13-15 in the city and in stop and go. God it was a fun car, though. The E46 is hugely improved in that arena, though, and the M54 is a way more modern and efficient motor even when getting caned. E: It's kind of nuts to think that that old M30, when new, was putting down almost the same power as the M54, though, with only 0.45 extra liters. Not as responsive as the M54, but just nearly about as smooth in its delivery. Guinness fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 01:57
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e: GDI SALR! To stay relevant, I get the same mileage in my 540i as I did in my 525i. Maybe because I still accelerate at the same speed most of the time, but that uses relatively less throttle on the bigger motor. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 02:20
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Welp, I went and looked over the e38 740i today - I might as well make my notes here. Body/Chassis: -between 10 and 15 small paint chips -few scratches -front bumper has a hole in it just below the passenger headlight(owner claimed something in the road jumped up and hit it, sounds right) -light curb rash on all four wheels -cracked seal around rear passenger-side door -tires are nearing their end -not a spot of rust on the car -these things are mostly expected for an 11 year old car that was dd'd for most of that time Interior: -light wear on center arm rest -cup holder below center console does not stay in, that motherfucker was booby trapped too and fell apart.(dont give a gently caress about cup holders) -passenger rear window motor broken -driver side mirror does not adjust with in-car control -nice stereo, mix of infinity and focal components hooked up to a 5 channel amp Suspension/Drivetrain: -axles have play, right side 1", left side 0.5" -during test drive, noticed loose steering wheel, about 1.5-2" of play Engine: -compartment is very clean -new hoses, belts, radiator -flapping sound coming from belts area, owner claimed to have never heard it before -owner admitted there is an oil leak, confirmed oil on subframe. owner claimed he's never had to top off oil between changes. Test Drive: -car shifts, handles, and accelerates well -I kept smelling that sweet sweet smell of burning motor oil  I'm not sure about the car anymore. I guess the motor oil smell just scared me and made me wonder how bad the oil leak is. Any advice here people? If I bought the car as-is I would only feel comfortable offering 6k knowing that I need to replace tires pretty soon and axles soon after. In other news, I went and looked at a truck today. What a piece of unmaintained poo poo. The owner also let me take it for a test drive WITH HIS TWO loving KIDS in the truck with me(he was not in the truck at this time). At least they kept their mouths shut and put on their seat belts. RapeWhistle fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 02:44
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I would not be surprised if it's power steering fluid and not oil.
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Jun 8, 2011 02:53
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Lowclock posted:I would not be surprised if it's power steering fluid and not oil. That sounds more likely to me as well.
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Jun 8, 2011 03:02
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Nitr0 posted:That sounds more likely to me as well. That's the first thing I said when he mentioned the oil leak, but he seemed certain that it was not PS fluid. He's not a dumb guy either, but who knows.
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Jun 8, 2011 03:06
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Shadowhand00 posted:Looks like he changed them because he thinks they are awesome. I think it looks kinda tacky to be honest. Thanks Shadowhand00, that first car you linked is almost exactly what I'm looking for. I would prefer an 05-06 and that the leather be black but everything else is all there. It looks like the steering wheel is alcantara but the upholstery is leather, is that something to worry about? I've only seen them match. I don't really have a preference for Manual vs Auto. I've been spoiled by automatics but I've never had a fun car that would make a manual worthwhile. I'll have to expand my search to LA. Although it seems when I look in southern Cali that windows are tinted dark and I don't think that'll fly in Oregon.
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Jun 8, 2011 04:01
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Chernobyl Prize posted:Thanks Shadowhand00, that first car you linked is almost exactly what I'm looking for. I would prefer an 05-06 and that the leather be black but everything else is all there. It looks like the steering wheel is alcantara but the upholstery is leather, is that something to worry about? I've only seen them match. 95% sure this is a ZHP: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2421266149.html It's been popping up for at least a couple months now so it's possible that there's something that's putting people off like a reconstructed title. If you look into it let me know the details. It's essentially my perfect car in every way minus the wheels, but I won't be in the market for another car until the wife and I get our savings built up a bit. Breaks my heart though to let it sit there. A Red/Black, 6spd Manual, ZHP with lowish miles is pretty rare from what I've seen and it'd be my ideal setup.
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Jun 8, 2011 18:34
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One last resource: http://www.zhpmafia.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?8-BMW-330-ZHPs-For-Sale-(vehicles-only) ZHP Mafia has a nice collection of info, I just think the name of the website is pretty lame.
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Jun 8, 2011 18:40
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How do you know for sure if it's a ZHP just from the photos? I look for the clear signal lights and the black window lining. I can't always see if the wheels and steering are M branded. Are the red gauge needles only red for ZHPs? As far as I can tell I think this is a ZHP, the person selling doesn't seem to realize though. Maybe they do though, it's overpriced. http://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/2427463767.html
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Jun 8, 2011 19:39
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That's not a ZHP, that's a sport package with the optional 18" style 71s. The other dead giveaway is lack of shadowline trim. It'd be a very good car, but it's way overpriced. Chernobyl Prize posted:How do you know for sure if it's a ZHP just from the photos? I look for the clear signal lights and the black window lining. I can't always see if the wheels and steering are M branded. Are the red gauge needles only red for ZHPs? 2004+ coupes with sport package, not just ZHPs, have clear corners from the factory, but it's also a common aftermarket modification. Shadowline trim was a factory option on ZHPs, but it's a common and easy modification that a lot of owners do to their cars. The red gauge needles are only on the ZHP. The Style 135 wheels are also usually a dead giveaway, along with the M-branded wheel and shifter. I know ZHPs are great and all, but a really clean 330 sport package is definitely worth considering if you don't want to wait and wait and wait or fly across the country for a ZHP. Guinness fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 19:42
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Guinness posted:I know ZHPs are great and all, but a really clean 330 sport package is definitely worth considering if you don't want to wait and wait and wait or fly across the country for a ZHP. Thanks for the info. I'm not locked in on a ZHP but I figure I should look for the best. I've been enjoying reading at all the BMW ads and I'm not in a rush to make a purchase. It's been a learning experience for sure!
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Jun 8, 2011 20:10
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Woodgrain trim interior is the biggest giveaway. Followed by the front bumper. FYI I looked for ~2 months before finding a good ZHP, then I got to negotiate with the dealer for it for 45 days due to their ridiculous asking price. Have fun on your search! (lol)
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Jun 8, 2011 20:20
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Chinatown posted:FYI I looked for ~2 months before finding a good ZHP, then I got to negotiate with the dealer for it for 45 days due to their ridiculous asking price. Have fun on your search! (lol) Yeah, people selling used "regular" BMWs are bad enough with overvaluing them. I've seen some positively retarded asking prices on pretty run-of-the-mill Bimmers. When someone with a ZHP (who knows what it is) is selling it, they seem to think it's plated in gold when coming up with an asking price. Maybe there are people out there paying ludicrous prices, I don't know, but when I was E46 hunting I saw a number of ZHPs for sale with crazy price tags that went unsold for weeks/months. Yeah, they're fantastic cars, but they 1) aren't THAT rare, and 2) aren't THAT much different from a 330 sport. The very slightly hotter engine and slightly shorter rear diff are cool but ultimately not a huge difference. The steering rack is the same on all the later 330s, and the suspension on any used BMW with 50k+ miles is going to need freshening up/replacing/upgrading in short order regardless, so the suspension difference is pretty moot. Beyond that it's mostly cosmetic stuff, much of which can be easily done to a non-ZHP car for little cost. I've driven both and IMO the ZHP isn't worth the 3-5k premium sellers seem to demand compared to a similar condition 330 sport. Don't get me wrong, if you're willing to wait it out and play the game with sellers to get a fair price, get a ZHP. They are the "best" E46 short of an M3 without a doubt, but just not by as much as their almost-mythical reputation would have you believe. Guinness fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jun 8, 2011 |
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Jun 8, 2011 21:05
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Lowclock posted:
I mean BMW E90 engineers went out of their way to ensure routine service items are as painful as possible. The annoying "lifetime service" decisions like: in-tank fuel filter, no rear diff drain plug for that "lifetime" fluid, ridiculous oil change intervals, byzantine airbox cover that has like 10 torx screws plus clamps, silly bulb change procedures (jack up car, remove wheel, remove fender liner...?), the list goes on. In short, they are designed to be even less user-maintainable and to maximize the dealership service revenue model. This means that they are even more likely to be neglected during their post-warranty years, meaning they'll likely be more short-lived in the long run. Not to mention that early run cars still tend to have fettling to be done in the design, versus a mature (but not obsolete) platform that has all of the advantages of the new cars with none of the disadvantages.
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Jun 8, 2011 21:07
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Sterndotstern posted:Not to mention that early run cars still tend to have fettling to be done in the design, versus a mature (but not obsolete) platform that has all of the advantages of the new cars with none of the disadvantages. It's kind of like how that old saying goes for Apple products: never buy the first revision of a new model, wait until the kinks and annoyances get worked out. The same tends to hold true for cars, especially BMWs. I'd much rather have the last car off the line of the old generation than the first car off the line of the new.
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Jun 8, 2011 21:10
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Guinness posted:Just filled up my tank for the third time since I've owned my 330, and for the third time the car nailed its own MPG calculation down to the decimal point compared to the manual trip odo/gallons filled calculation. I'm super impressed, especially since each tank was very different driving styles. I've filled my car up four times now and I've averaged 8.2 L/100 km across all four fills, which is 28.6 mpg. Granted, most of my driving is on the highway, but I don't have the luxury of an overdrive sixth gear in my transmission either. That said, I don't think my next fill is going to be anywhere near as good; I took the car out to a trackday on Monday, put on jointly by the local BMW club and the two BMW dealers in town. It was mostly an instructional session, but we still got to put in a number of hot laps on the track. I am totally blown away at just how high the limits of my car are; suffice it to say, they're much higher than my own personal limits. I also got a chance to drive an X6M...what a mind-altering experience that was. A vehicle that tall and that heavy shouldn't be able to go that fast or corner that well.
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Jun 8, 2011 21:49
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Well, poo poo. So tonight, of course I am going to pick up my phone I left at a friend's house when the 540 dies at a light, which it does from time to time, but now it won't start. poo poo. I end up coasting it into a church parking lot. So it will act like it's starting, kicks over just fine, but then dies right out. Gunning the engine kind of works but you can't really hold it because it's obvious the computer is like NO NO GAS WHAT ARE YOU DOING I REFUSE. Goddammit. Just for shits, I do a stomp test, and OF COURSE dead in the water out in the middle of nowhere, it works fine the first time. Gives me a 1215, MAF again, and that's all. So I walk home, 2.5 miles in the humid heat, ugh. Get home, have my brother take me to get my phone, go back to the car and think, well, if it truly is the MAF, if I unplug it, it should run. And it does. Idles smooth, accelerates great, drove it home and you'd never know it wasn't connected if not for the CEL. I get home, leave the engine running and connect the MAF back up, engine instantly dies. So is it pretty conclusive at this point that the MAF needs replacing? I've cleaned it repeatedly, checked the contacts in the connector and the engine does not run with it hooked up. Just looking for a little confirmation before I send Pelican $312. AlternateAccount fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 05:59
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Yeah unless you have a giant vacuum leak you're still missing it's probably the MAF at this point. I wanted to say that there's a company out there that makes much less expensive aftermarket ones, but I can't seem to find them. There's also a couple on ebay. E: VVV I don't know, they're used, obviously. If it works, you saved a bunch of money. If it doesn't maybe you can dispute it with paypal or something? If you can afford it I'd probably just get a new one. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 06:22
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Lowclock posted:Yeah unless you have a giant vacuum leak you're still missing it's probably the MAF at this point. I wanted to say that there's a company out there that makes much less expensive aftermarket ones, but I can't seem to find them. There's also a couple on ebay. I'll look it over one more time, assuming that the leak would have to be from the airbox back to the intake manifold, I can't imagine where it could be. Do you feel good about eBay purchases? People charging $80 for parts that go for $300 at retail make me anxious.
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Jun 9, 2011 06:53
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You can also test the MAF with an ohmmeter. I forgot the pins and values you need to check, but it should be in a manual (Bentley or the lovely Haynes). If it runs fine with just the MAF unplugged, it can't be a vacuum leak. I'd buy an original used one if it were me, they usually last ages as far as I know.
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Jun 9, 2011 11:50
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This window regulator repair took a surprisingly little amount of time. The hardest part was removing the trim clips at the top. 60 minutes start to finish, and I was taking my time.
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Jun 9, 2011 20:16
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As I was pulling in to my complex today I had the battery light blink on for a second when I stopped at a stop sign. Before I had fully noticed and reacted, it went off. I accelerated away, then two stops later it came back on and stayed on. The first thing I checked was that power steering was still working, as I know if you get a battery light and lose power steering it means a belt just went and the water pump is no longer spinning, but in this case the belt is still intact and everything is spinning properly. I'm fairly certain this means either the alternator has failed or there's a problem with the battery. Are there good home tests for these, or should I limp it to the nearby Autozone? If it is the alternator, I see that's $250 or so online and it's described as a fairly easy job. I know there's an early E36 325iA at the local pull-a-part, is there any chance the alternator on the M50 is the same as on an M54? I'd rather not spend $250 if I can avoid it.
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Jun 9, 2011 20:53
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I would just limp it over to napa, what ever and test it. How old is your battery? Just make sure you spend a little extra and get a GOOD battery if it is that. Also if you get lucky, there is a shop that rebuilds alternators/starters way cheaper than what any where else can do. He rebuilt my boat's alternator for 60 bucks compared to 300 bucks for the one from the marina. So far 3 years old and no problems, it looks just like a 1 wire GM unit anyways. Its worth a shot.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:06
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The battery is just over 3.5 years old, the one that was in the car when I bought it died a few days later and it was replaced by the dealer. I did the voltage test and found high 11s at the battery both off and running. I also found that the positive connector was loose enough to twist, but no amount of tightening would help this. It seems to be a badly designed connector where the screw force is not directly operating the clamping part but rather pushing a wedge-like thing which forces the two sides together. There's about a half mm gap which can not be closed and the cable rotates freely on the post. I also checked the voltage from the under hood terminals while running and saw high 11s for a few seconds, followed by nothing at all. While strange, I don't think this is relevant. e: I have now fixed the clamp so it actually grips the battery, but unfortunately it does look like it's the alternator. After getting the clamp on, I started up the car and since I had no light I decided to take it for a lap around the block. About half way around my radar detector started chirping about low voltage, then the TCS, ABS, and parking brake lights all went yellow a few seconds later. By the time I was pulling back in to my complex the airbag light was also on and when I checked the voltage it was down to 7.97v with the vehicle running. I'm having trouble finding info about any possible rebuild kits. It seems like a simple enough job for a weekend and I have a vehicle available to me through work to use for the time, so if anyone has any links to rebuild resources I'd appreciate it. wolrah fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 22:30
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ynotony posted:This window regulator repair took a surprisingly little amount of time. The hardest part was removing the trim clips at the top. 60 minutes start to finish, and I was taking my time. Did BMW finally stop riveting the loving things in place after the e36?
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Jun 9, 2011 22:31
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wolrah posted:I did the voltage test and found high 11s at the battery both off and running. I also found that the positive connector was loose enough to twist, but no amount of tightening would help this. You could always do what I did on my Honda and wad up something nonconductive next to the terminal so it stays tight. It would kind of do the same thing while the connector was just flopping around like that.
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Jun 9, 2011 23:20
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wolrah posted:I did the voltage test and found high 11s at the battery both off and running. I assert you have either a) bad alternator, b) a bad battery ground, or c) all of the above. I'd recommend checking the battery ground first. Also, beware that there are two different alternator mount brackets with different thread pitches.
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Jun 9, 2011 23:31
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