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Leroy Diplowski posted:I'll be sure to check the wiring harness and connections. If all of the power accessories work would that be a good indicator of solid wiring elsewhere? Is the 2.2 an otherwise solid motor? The wiring harness degrades due to heat. Since the engine bay is the hottest area in the car, the process is accelerated there. The functionality of the power accessories in the interior will not tell you whether there are problems with the engine harness. What you're looking for specifically are issues with the exposed wiring in the engine bay. If you can take a wire between your fingers and rub/roll it back and forth between them, and the rubber insulation on it crumbles off, the harness is bad. The engine in the car is a B230, which is solid and shouldn't give you any trouble in naturally aspirated form. LH 2.2 just refers to the fuel injection system.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:34
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I also wouldn't be overly worried about wiring harness issues. It tends to be worse in drier climates (Arizona/California) than the SE, and an '87 while not immune to the problem has had it ameliorated slightly by a change in the harness manufacture after '85. Definitely check it out thoroughly, but don't go in automatically expecting to have a problem. I've got an '85 that has been in SoCal for the last 12 years and there's a little insulation degradation on my harness but it has not given me any issues so far.
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Jun 1, 2011 18:44
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Noticed today some ticking valves....issue or not? Just a steady tic tic tic before I shut off the car, no change in driving performance.
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Jun 1, 2011 23:45
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Which engine?
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Jun 1, 2011 23:48
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Any goons in Douglassville, PA? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190504808954&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_6116wt_1143 I hate ebayers who won't ship. I need a dash for my 164 project. Thinking of submitting a fairly low offer and giving the rest to someone who can help me get it to Mississippi.
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Jun 2, 2011 02:58
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Splizwarf posted:Which engine? 2.3L high pressure turbo 5 cyl on the 98 v70R
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Jun 2, 2011 04:24
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Leroy Diplowski posted:Thinking about taking a 4hr greyhound bus trip (the tallahassee area is the volvo black hole) to buy this car sight unseen. I talked to the guy for about 30 mins and he seemed pretty stand up. Apparently it's immaculate. Am I out of my mind? aright, which one of you bought the thing right out from under me?
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Jun 2, 2011 13:16
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Right, I have not had a good day. I've been dreading swapping the control arms on my V70 but it actually only took me about an hour and a half all in. However I managed to gently caress up the inner cv joint (rhs), it seems I managed to pull the knuckle out so it all had to come apart to put the joint back together. It seemed to work, built it will back up & spinning the disk shows the bearings aren't in their cage again. To top it off I can't get the ball joint back out in order to pull the shaft again. I either need a big strong man or a spring compressor or I'm not driving to work on Monday. I swore a lot.
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Jun 4, 2011 20:23
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Found a 2000 V40 on craigslist. I didn't even know they made those. If it didn't have 140k miles, I'd be very interested... turbo 4 cylinder in a virtually unknown body style is awfully tempting.
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Jun 4, 2011 20:46
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EVERYWHERE 
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My mom has one. It is nice inside but the 1.4T engine is meh.
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Jun 5, 2011 01:12
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Right, I'm going to go out & have another go at putting my inner cv joint back together. Does anyone know of a good guide to do so? Matthewsvolvosite repair database seems to say that rebuilding an inner joint should be done only on the bench, meaning I've got to pull the entire RHS driveshaft, a task I'd rather avoid i.e.will avoid like the plague. Also, the pics I can find seem to show a three-bearing arrangement inside the inner joint, whereas mine is definitely 6 ball bearings in a slotted cage. edit: a rzeppa joint as shown below apparently... 
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 12:50 on Jun 5, 2011 |
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Jun 5, 2011 11:55
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Pronounced "sheppa" (in the US anyway) if you need to explain it to a parts counter or a mechanic.meatpimp posted:Found a 2000 V40 on craigslist. I didn't even know they made those. If it didn't have 140k miles, I'd be very interested... turbo 4 cylinder in a virtually unknown body style is awfully tempting. We have one and it loving rules. See my previous posting for how spry and great the little bastard is. It comes stock with seats that have racing bolsters built in, and for a reason. For what it's worth, 140k is actually pretty good for the year; work it out: 11.5 years times 12,000 miles a year is 138K, that's not bad. You could do that with a 25-mile commute. I can probably help you with it, I rebuilt the entire engine on ours thanks to my wife's parents not telling her why you should change the oil. On the upside, I can vouch for the fact that they'll still run after 30,000 miles on the same oil; she stopped driving it because of the clouds it was making, not because it wouldn't start. Although, on the note of advice-giving, I'm starting to get worried about astrollinthepork, we haven't heard from him in too long.  mikerock posted:My mom has one. It is nice inside but the 1.4T engine is meh. It's a 2.0 rebadged to a 1.9 in the American market. The 1.4 is Euro-only and it's the bargain basement model.
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Jun 5, 2011 16:10
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Well I pulled the entire driveshaft, it was relatively painless. I then completely cleaned out the joint, rebuilt & repacked it, it went fairly smoothly as soon as I'd wrapped my head around which way the grooves mate. Slid it straight back into the transmission, everything bolted back up together quite rapidly. Test drive: All good. LHS: Not bad enough to warrant doing yet 
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Jun 5, 2011 19:40
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Congrats on getting it fixed, there was a guy on Swedespeed who just went through that, I was gonna link you his thread. In C70 land, I shaved .8 seconds off my 1/4 mile time today! 15.4 @ 92 mph. All I've done since the last time I ran was spark plugs, so I attribute it to the track, it was gripping well and really fast. Several local Volvo dudes laid down personal best 1/4 mile times. I think this is the last time I'll run the C70, as I made the clutch stink and I'm really not interested in making it any faster. But man was it fun, I've established that I'm 1/2 second faster than a stock S60R. And I have a better 60' time than my buddy's heavily modded S60R. The only bummer was that the massive HP 740 wagon wasn't able to run, he hasn't had time to get it back together after putting a roll cage in it. The surprise of the day was the flat black S60 2.4T AWD which has a big turbo and a tune, it was the fastest car there running consistent 14.4s. And before number discussion comes up, keep in mind that we're at 5800 feet, a stock S60R will run about a flat 16 here, and a stock T5 runs about 17. We had good turnout. Some pics:    
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Jun 6, 2011 04:51
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Car: 1997 Volvo 850, non-turbo, manual, 127k miles. My rear O2 sensor is shot. this is the cheapest I've found for a replacement, but why is a new extension harness required? Wouldn't I have the existing harness? Or do replacement sensors have a shorter length to them? Everywhere I check says the extension is required, so it's not just this brand or something.
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Jun 6, 2011 13:52
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_bNBHatNm8 One more yard run, a DMV visit, and some random things here and there, and this thing is gonna be road-worthy~
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Jun 9, 2011 05:15
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Now I know what to do with the spare shortblock I have in the barn.  That's awesome that you got that together and running so quickly-what turbo do you have on there?
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Jun 9, 2011 06:48
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zundfolge posted:Now I know what to do with the spare shortblock I have in the barn. A 15g Reason it wasn't done last week is because FCP takes forever to ship parts. We probably have four solid days of labor for this thing at this point. Plans: -Complete Stage 0 before we move forward. Too many people go for "the turbo" and "the standalone engine management" and "the rods" without realizing that the car needs to actually run first before you start upgrading everything else. This is the anti-Turbobricks project: a running, reliable, low-budget project car instead of a non-running, unreliable, high-budget half-car. --Replacing driver's side engine mount --Braided transmission lines to replace hackjobbed hoses --Intercooler brackets, new radiator --Replacing all old rubber with newer silicon bits --Hook up boost gauge --Properly wire head and taillights -Bigger turbo, swap in our 42lb injectors, install boost controller -Put in our Sparco seats -Slap some Winnie the Pooh stickers on the back and put some Beanie Babies on the dash for ultimate sleeper status -Put in new valve springs if valve float occurs Our goal for the car is 200whp with the 15g @12psi, orange tops, and 8v computers. It's a base point for a solid build and we plan on adding more upgrades as time goes on. (Including my old 700RMS 12" Dayton sub  )
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Jun 9, 2011 07:23
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2 questions: 1/ when persuading my ball joints out I snapped off the rusted remains of one front disk brake back plate. Should I remove the other one or find a replacement? Are they important? 2/ I need to give the paintwork some loving, can anyone link me a guide for cutting, polishing, touchups etc?
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Jun 9, 2011 07:36
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98 S70 Power steering leak, no obvious tears on hose. Works fine if i top it off. Found the instructions on refurbing the power steering unit on an RH 850 (not the pump). not that it sounds tough but i feel like i'd just eff it up though. new one on fcp is 350 but a 3 dollar bottle of fluid lasts a bit... oh and already tried Lucas stop leak. Which has improved things but still leaks on hot days. Anyone have any experience rebuilding theirs? zenless fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 14:24
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zenless posted:98 S70 Power steering leak, no obvious tears on hose. Works fine if i top it off. Found the instructions on refurbing the power steering unit on an RH 850 (not the pump). not that it sounds tough but i feel like i'd just eff it up though. new one on fcp is 350 but a 3 dollar bottle of fluid lasts a bit... oh and already tried Lucas stop leak. Which has improved things but still leaks on hot days. You might try a Maval rebuilt rack: http://www.mavalgear.com/catalog.html not sure who would have them stocked.
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Jun 9, 2011 14:38
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With out sounding like a complete tard. Is it normal for volvo's to have the timing belts run out in the open with out covers? Either way its 
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Jun 9, 2011 15:01
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BrokenKnucklez posted:With out sounding like a complete tard. Is it normal for volvo's to have the timing belts run out in the open with out covers? It's pretty common practice, but it's not particularly wise-without the belly pan on (which is also pretty common, at least on RWD cars), there's a nice gap for stuff to get kicked up into the belt and gently caress things up. In the case of Xovaan's car, there may not be a way to run a timing cover. The Volvo 16V motors use a different block than the 8V motors, and while the head bolts on to an 8V shortblock, I don't know if the bolt holes of the 16V timing cover line up.
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Jun 9, 2011 15:30
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BrokenKnucklez posted:With out sounding like a complete tard. Is it normal for volvo's to have the timing belts run out in the open with out covers? Normally, there's a cover, yeah. They just get taken off.  
TheJeffers fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Jun 9, 2011 |
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Jun 9, 2011 15:36
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Yeah, the 16v + T swap uses one of the DOHC cam gears in place of the old auxiliary shaft / oil pump gear and the added size rubs slightly on the bottom half of the outer timing cover. I plan on spacing it out with washers so it doesn't rub because having a slight gap is better than no protection at all. The top part also won't fit and I'm figuring that out once I figure out a solution to my exhaust problem. (3" downpipe won't clear the firewall with the Yoshifab adapter and 90+ so I'm either going to put on my old full 2.25" exhaust or simply get a shop to fabricate me a differently-angled downpipe. Today the car had its first test drive and it did wonderfully. Been fixing most of the previous owner's hack job wiring (and trust me, it is horrible even by Tbricker standards.  ) Ran some proper battery cable from the trunk to the starter (replacing the speaker cable that was acting as starter power and ground prior...), somewhat fixed the brake and head lights, fixed the minor cam seal leak with all new seals and gave the turbo water cooling.Gonna be putting in some chips and 48lb injectors after we get the exhaust hooked up and a boost gauge installed then I'm gonna spank some Evos~ 
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Jun 10, 2011 05:06
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Just caught up with thread since March. Haven't checked this thread for awhile. Lots of RWD cars which is cool. Needs more FWD love though. Here's a quick pic of my car: I made a thread on Volvospeed after I got the car detailed. Here are some more big pics of it: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/145256-volvo-s70-after-detail/ . If you really don't want to go to Volvospeed, here is the imgur link: http://imgur.com/a/iA1FK .
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Jun 11, 2011 08:34
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If anyone in the New England area is looking, I have a 89 240 I want to sell for 500$. It has 111k on it, and currently doesn't run because of some kind of fuel issue. It will start, and then stall out after a few seconds. You have to wait about 5-10 minutes before it will do the same thing again. It needs a battery, tires (ones in the pics aren't included) and corner marker lenses. It also needs a good cleaning. Look at it here : http://imgur.com/a/EsyDX and http://imgur.com/a/qjy19 If I can't get 500$ for it, I'm just going to start taking it apart and scrap it.
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Jun 14, 2011 13:16
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ease posted:If anyone in the New England area is looking, I have a 89 240 I want to sell for 500$. It has 111k on it, and currently doesn't run because of some kind of fuel issue. That thing is way too clean to scrap.  Make sure you post an ad on Turbobricks, as someone will almost certainly take it for that price. It sounds like a really easy thing to fix, too.
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Jun 14, 2011 15:42
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Oxphocker posted:Noticed today some ticking valves....issue or not? Just a steady tic tic tic before I shut off the car, no change in driving performance. 2.3L 5-cyl high pressure turbo. Anyone have ideas on this one? Also, I had a question on trying to find a particular bolt...the air guide under the radiator is held on by two bolts that are metric in size but it's a very coarse threading. Does anyone know where to get these? I asked the dealer and they sell packs of them but only ten at a time and it's like $20. I only need two but I need to find the correct sizing in order to find them online. I tried taking the bolt to the local home depot and the local parts store and couldn't find it at either.
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Jun 16, 2011 17:27
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Oxphocker posted:Also, I had a question on trying to find a particular bolt...the air guide under the radiator is held on by two bolts that are metric in size but it's a very coarse threading. Does anyone know where to get these? I asked the dealer and they sell packs of them but only ten at a time and it's like $20. I only need two but I need to find the correct sizing in order to find them online. I tried taking the bolt to the local home depot and the local parts store and couldn't find it at either. If you can't get them from a scrappers, how accurately can you measure the bolt? If you have a digital or vernier caliper you can measure the thread diameter and pitch.
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Jun 16, 2011 17:50
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They're coarse threaded because they're sheet metal screws. Any other generic sheet metal screw should do it. I think they're the same size as fender bolts from older Volvos as well, might try those as there should be an abundance at junkyards. Hell, I have about 20 of them myself just sitting around from parts cars.
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Jun 16, 2011 17:59
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 I don't have calipers, however I'm holding a quarter next to it for scale. I know it's metric (between 10-13mm) on the bolt head and the washer near the head is loose but won't thread off. It should be the same as any 98 V70...if you are going to drain the radiator, you have to take this air guide off first and there is one bolt on either side pretty close to where the fog lights hang if you have those on your car. The plastic guide slides off to reveal the underside of the radiator. It's those bolts I'm trying to find.
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Jun 16, 2011 18:10
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I found a bit of a problem Sunday morning when I went to start my '93 240. I had just unlocked the doors and went around to the back of the car to look at the diff to see if it had been leaking much (I have to replace the pinion seal where the driveshaft meets the diff) when I noticed a stream of fluid start to pour from underneath the engine. I opened the hood and saw a puddle of green fluid sitting in the plastic debris guard under the engine, and no coolant in the expansion tank. I thought it was just a leak in a hose or seal somewhere, but here's where it gets weird. I refilled the expansion tank to the max fill line with coolant and then started it up. I let it get up to temp and looked for leaks but didn't see any. Since it didn't seem to be leaking anymore I figured I would go get my other car (40 miles away) and simultaneously put some load on the engine to see if that caused any leaks. When I checked the level after the trip it was a little higher than before I left, and there were no visible leaks anywhere. I waited around for a few hours to let the engine cool off, figuring maybe it would leak then. I still found nothing. I pulled off the debris guard and started looking around for leaks in more detail. All the hoses were pliable with no visible cracks, no leaks around the radiator, water pump or headgasket. I'm stumped. The drive belts look a bit worn and they squeal a bit when the engine is first started, but the only thing I've done differently in the past week or so is use the A/C.
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Jun 17, 2011 00:36
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Oxphocker posted:I don't have calipers, however I'm holding a quarter next to it for scale. I know it's metric (between 10-13mm) on the bolt head and the washer near the head is loose but won't thread off. It should be the same as any 98 V70...if you are going to drain the radiator, you have to take this air guide off first and there is one bolt on either side pretty close to where the fog lights hang if you have those on your car. The plastic guide slides off to reveal the underside of the radiator. It's those bolts I'm trying to find. This is a scrapyard job really, anywhere you can buy that bolt from will probably charge as much as volvo. Go to a scrapper & pick every bolt & fixing you can find off your model, I did this on a previous car & was charged £5 for like 3lbs of bolts & clips.
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Jun 17, 2011 07:17
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I talked to the parts guy at the Volvo dealer, he said those screws are very hard to find...even the techs in his shop have a hard time getting those. So I'm just going to buy a bag.. So if anyone needs a machine screw I can probably hook you up soon....
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Jun 17, 2011 07:56
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I bought that exact screw yesterday at the dulles Volvo dealer for $2. If anybody needs one, pm me and I'll go get more
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Jun 17, 2011 12:13
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Oxphocker posted:Noticed today some ticking valves....issue or not? Just a steady tic tic tic before I shut off the car, no change in driving performance. I would say to open the hood and make sure it's coming from the engine. The EVAP valve and the air pump can sometimes give a clicking noise also. If it is valve tapping then there are a few things to check. Excess crankcase pressure, low oil, bad (old) oil, bad oil pump, or clogged lines from the oil pump to the oil jets. If you haven't changed your oil then try that first. Check your dipstick and make sure you have enough oil. Check the dipstick tube and see if you get any smoke coming out. If all those things are good, I would look towards the oil pump. Here is a thread that has some info on it: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/104112-ticking-from-top-of-engine/
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Jun 18, 2011 09:05
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I'm thinking about picking up a late eighties, maybe later depending on what's available, 240 sedan in the Portland area. My parents are helping me out and I need to give them some idea what maintaining these cars costs on a yearly basis. This seems awfully vague; I apologize. I'm just looking for a ballpark figure. A Volvo specialist in the area said I'm probably looking at paying 750-1000 to keep the thing in good shape. Up to 1500 to keep every little thing up to snuff. I intend, however, to learn a thing or two about the car so I'm able to perform some routine maintenance. I imagine this will come out of necessity with an older car. Do you 240 owners find yourself digging into your pockets fairly often for necessary repair? I suppose it's worth noting that I'm young, and I'll probably be a little hard on the car. Nothing crazy, though. I'm not a reckless or moronic driver, just a little lead-footed. The plan also entails picking up a standard. Seems like a worthwhile skill to pick-up since I have the opportunity. Beaucoup Cuckoo fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Jun 18, 2011 |
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Jun 18, 2011 19:19
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$1500 a year? That seems pretty steep, hell $750 seems like you could practically keep it in Concourse show mode for that kind of money yearly. I put about $150 into my '85 240 every year whether it needs it or not, occasionally I need a more pricey fix like a $600 steering rack or $500 worth of dampers, but that's like every 10 years at most. There are approximately 5 moving parts on these, they're bulletproof and put together like legos, and every car from 1979-1992 has roughly the same parts so you can pick and choose across the range (if you're limited to only X models at the junkyard, or whatevs.) Obviously you can find a broken lemon if you look hard, but most of the RWD cars will run forever no matter what you do to them. I've had a variety of them and over the years I've jumped mine, rallycrossed them, driven over curbs at full speed, not changed the oil for years at a time, and I think about the worst thing I've ever done to a Volvo 240 mechanically through abuse/use is bend some rims. Ask Xovaan about going from a fresh-faced new 240 owner to an engine and transmission-swapping madman in about 12 months through tinkering on his!
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Jun 20, 2011 21:15
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The only bad thing about buying a used 240 is undoing all the deferred maintenance if previous owners haven't kept up with it. That can take a decent investment, but my experience mirrors Ether Frenzy's-once it's running well, $150-$250 a year should keep a 240 going quite nicely. Portland is 240 heaven-check out OVTuners.org or Turbobricks if you're looking for a local enthusiast community. You might be able to roust some DIY assistance if you need it.
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Jun 20, 2011 21:57
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