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jvick posted:How thick is it? Is it thin enough to where you can just rent a huge floor sander and remove it that way? Between effectively 0 and maybe 2 mm thick. The uncompressed bits are thicker but easy to scrape off.
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Jun 4, 2011 09:21
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General_Failure posted:Our kitchen was carpeted. Well, half of it still is. There are nice floorboards underneath. Unfortunately the carpet had this awful blue foam underlay which was glued to the floor, and has generally fused with it everywhere else as it decayed with age. how the hell do I get it off? I had a degree of success with orange oil and a paint scraper, but a lot of it just won't budge where it has fused. What do I do? I know exactly what you are talking about, we have the same thing underneath our carpet. It's black instead of blue, but otherwise identical. I can't speak to yours, but I don't think mine is glued down, it has just adhered to the floor after decades of people walking across it and what not. What works for me is going over the sections with a scraper and getting up what I can, vacuuming whatever dust remains. Then I go over the stubborn areas with Murphy's oil soap, diluted per the label. I've been doing maybe .5 sqft sections at a time, and the oil soap really makes a huge difference in how easily the crud comes up. Good luck.
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Jun 4, 2011 21:18
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Whenever I see the adhesive crap on This Old House, they take a floor sander to it. Won't you have to sand the floor to do a refinish anyway? Two birds, one stone!
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Jun 4, 2011 21:54
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NancyPants posted:Whenever I see the adhesive crap on This Old House, they take a floor sander to it. Won't you have to sand the floor to do a refinish anyway? Two birds, one stone! Yeah. I was actually looking at it a few minutes ago and realised a floor sander would be wasted. The whole kitchen is maybe 3x4m. Anyone know what smaller items I could use. Hell even by hand I could probably do it in a day, but I've never restored a PO messed up house floor before and have no idea.
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Jun 5, 2011 00:58
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You could do it with hand sanders, I guess. But you'd be on your hands and knees for the whole thing, which is hell on your back and your knees. I don't know of a better way.
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Jun 5, 2011 01:25
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NancyPants posted:You could do it with hand sanders, I guess. But you'd be on your hands and knees for the whole thing, which is hell on your back and your knees. I don't know of a better way. If it's gummy, it's going to gum up sandpaper, power sander or not.
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Jun 5, 2011 02:02
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I agree, I think you'll chew through sandpaper too fast; it'll get clogged with glue/gum I'd try out different solvents and scrape it off then come back after and sand. If you don't need a big floor sander you could use a belt sander
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Jun 5, 2011 02:11
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I bought a Barbara Karst Bourgainvillea vine and I wonder how troublesome the roots might be if I plant it at the front of my house near where my water lines are buried. I don't have many places around my house that would be good for a vine that needs sun all day and other than the water lines this is an ideal location.
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Jun 5, 2011 05:56
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Shouldn't be a problem; their roots are not very big
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Jun 5, 2011 06:03
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General_Failure posted:Our hot water heater is near the bathroom. Almost right outside the wall. In the past few months or so the cold water runs very warm / hot for a few seconds. Why is this happening? How water heaters have little flapper valves in them to prevent backflushing, but it's possible that those valves have degraded. When I was installing my grandfather's water heater I noticed the valves were just little pieces of plastic. Do the cold water lines going in to the heater feel warm if you haven't used any water in awhile?
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Jun 5, 2011 07:11
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Bean Bandit posted:I bought a Barbara Karst Bourgainvillea vine and I wonder how troublesome the roots might be if I plant it at the front of my house near where my water lines are buried. I don't have many places around my house that would be good for a vine that needs sun all day and other than the water lines this is an ideal location. Dang, where do you live that a Bougainvillea can survive outside? Most everywhere uses copper pipe for the service entrance, which roots can't penetrate. The only problem any plant can cause with them is being in the way if you ever had to dig down to them for some reason. So unless you're going to open a water park in your backyard and need to upgrade your water service, I wouldn't worry about it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jun 5, 2011 |
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Jun 5, 2011 17:55
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I've got a wooden bowl that has a bigass crack in it. I'd like to put something on there to patch up the hole to make this water tight again as well as food safe. What kind of glue or filler can I use that isn't going to be toxic? Here's a picture of the crack on the interior of the bowl:  I thought about Elmer's glue since it dries reasonably clear but I figure it will tend to turn to a gluey slurry the next time some stew or something goes in the bowl.
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Jun 7, 2011 17:01
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Any tips for getting primer off of jeans/shirts?
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Jun 7, 2011 22:40
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Associate Christ
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CuddleChunks posted:I've got a wooden bowl that has a bigass crack in it. I'd like to put something on there to patch up the hole to make this water tight again as well as food safe. What kind of glue or filler can I use that isn't going to be toxic?
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Jun 7, 2011 22:44
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grover posted:I think the pros use some sort of pigmented epoxy resin for this. Not sure what specific type, though. Thanks for the lead. I did some checking and it looks like original Gorilla Glue will do the trick.
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Jun 8, 2011 00:01
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I freely admit this is be a stupid question for a frivolous purpose. I want to make a basic box robot costume, but with a working monitor for a face. I want to make a 27" monitor work for an extended period without being plugged in, ie run off of a battery. Is this something that's possible, and what would be the best way to go about it? I've seen power supplies like the Powerpack but a) I'm concerned about the weight and potential heat of the device and b) I don't know whether this would even power the screen for very long. Thanks for any advice / ideas.
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Jun 9, 2011 14:46
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Reo posted:I want to make a 27" monitor work for an extended period without being plugged in, ie run off of a battery. Is this something that's possible, and what would be the best way to go about it? Very rough estimate: 27" lcd is ~200W (based on what google says about apple cinema display) powerpack is 12V @ 28 amp-hours = 336 Watt-hours 336 / 200 = 1.7 hours runtime
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Jun 9, 2011 15:09
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That powerpack is 25 pounds and the screen is going to be at least 20 pounds, resting on your head or shoulders depending on the design. Have you considered a smaller monitor or a long extension cord?
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Jun 9, 2011 16:42
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taqueso posted:Very rough estimate: 200W! That's a bit high. That would be a CRT power rating. LCD's are roughly 25-50 Watts depending on the manufacturer. So: 336 Watt-Hours / 50 Watts = 6.72 Hours However, you need to include the equipment to run the monitor.
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Jun 9, 2011 16:51
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According to cnet the apple cinema 27-inch is 250W! http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/apple-led-cinema-display/4507-3174_7-34184192.html This dell says 105W nominal http://www.amazon.com/Dell-2709W-27-Inch-Widescreen-Monitor/dp/B001TH7FB0
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Jun 9, 2011 17:17
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Powering a 27" display is a monumental task - would you consider a smaller screen? You can get a 10" android tablet that weighs a pound & will run for 5-9 hours on a single charge
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Jun 9, 2011 17:58
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Paint Stripper. So I have about 500 sqf of concrete pad in my basement that is currently covered in mostly latex paint, and some places what looks like a clear sealer. Possibly another coat of some other older paint underneath the first. Here are 2 quick pictures: Picture 1 Picture 2 I would like to get this back down to mostly bare concrete. I am told that using a large diamond grinder is one way but that the dust will make me want to just burn the house down and start over. Also I don't have the machine or any experience using it. So I am looking at some kind of chemical stripper to pull this stuff up. As it is in a basement, there isn't a ton of ventilation and I am not too keen on using something that will either explode if there is a spark or give me brain damage. So I am looking for suggestions/advice on stripping agents or just other ideas. So far something like this seems to be a decent bet: Multi-Strip Low VOC, odorless, non corrosive etc. Any thoughts?
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Jun 9, 2011 18:23
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Hopefully this is a real quick one. I'm just an idiot when it comes to installing things in the home and rather than do it wrong I'm hoping one of you can tell me if I'm on the right track here. I bought a standard window air-conditioning unit from sears. I want to install it in this window:  The lip I've marked A is what worries me, because I don't think it can support the weight of machine. The instructions seem to indicate that the AC can in fact be placed on a thin piece of plastic as such:  If I am wrong that would be great - I just don't want to break the window (we're renting). There is another illustration in the booklet that talks about obstructions. It suggests using a piece of wood to sit the AC on.  Because my window doesn't look like either of the illustrations, would I be correct in placing the wood piece in the area I marked B in the first photo?
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Jun 9, 2011 21:27
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You can grab a short piece of 2x4 and stick it in there. That's what I do with mine and it doesn't have any weight on the plastic at all.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:14
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Most of the weight from the compressor and radiator is going to be hanging out the window. My old window AC unit had a plastic frame that expanded on the sides. The AC sat on that and the lip of the window frame without any problems.
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Jun 9, 2011 22:21
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I used 5/8" thick scraps of wood on either side of the window threshold. Make sure it's tilted out the window slightly so that all of the condensate water doesn't drain back into your house. :/ I installed central A/C last year (after 18-years; had a friend charge it for me) and am glad to be rid of those damned window units.  The 18K BtU one was breaking my back 
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Jun 9, 2011 22:57
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I want to remove the texturing on this wall but I've been watching too much Holmes Inspection and now I'm paranoid about asbestos. What is the likelihood this texturing has asbestos considering its type and that the house was built in 1958?
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Jun 9, 2011 23:24
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Thanks for the quick responses! I put a piece of 2x4 there and it seems to sit just fine.
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Jun 9, 2011 23:54
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Hello! I posted this in the electronics thread but I thought I'd ask here too in case anyone has a quick response. I don't really post about anything but knitting in DIY so...  I recently came across this : http://www.etsy.com/listing/7405937...de-light-switch And I decided that by golly, I wanted one! Except. You know, $35. For $3 of plastic. This will not stand, nope, so I want to make one. The plate is like $.50 or free or whatever, the buttons are like $2, easy enough. Except the buttons are momentary switches and do not normally function as toggle switches, of course. This is where I lose track because I only know how to work on arcade cabs a bit and nothing about interior wiring. Fine fine. The solution that was posited to me was that I should be using a latching relay rated for at least 110v/15a for a standard US light switch. Is there anything MISSING in this solution or can you brilliant people suggest a more elegant solution? If it is beyond my scope I will probably make my boyfriend do it, but I want to make sure I'm at least headed in the right direction. $35!
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Jun 10, 2011 00:18
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Captain Stinkybutt posted:light switches http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Accents-Single-Antique-Reproduction/dp/B0002EVT5Y Then pick up a couple arcade switches and start modding: http://www.sparkfun.com/categories/145 They're likely doing something similar because building your own light switch is probably not to anyone's local building code. VVVV sorry, just edited yippee cahier fucked around with this message at 01:07 on Jun 10, 2011 |
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Jun 10, 2011 01:03
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sund posted:First hit on google, you can probably find cheaper: First hit is page not found. 
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Jun 10, 2011 01:05
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If it doesn't say in the lease, who is responsible for the lawn of a rented house? The tenant or the landlord?
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Jun 10, 2011 01:29
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Corla Plankun posted:If it doesn't say in the lease, who is responsible for the lawn of a rented house? The tenant or the landlord? I think it depends on the state, but generally the landlord. If the landlord is, there will generally be a clause stating that the landlord is responsible for the gardener.
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Jun 10, 2011 01:42
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jvick posted:I think it depends on the state, but generally the landlord. If the landlord is, there will generally be a clause stating that the landlord is responsible for the gardener. Almost always it is the landlord, unless it says differently in the lease, as landlords are usually responsible for maintenance and repairs, etc.
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Jun 10, 2011 01:53
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kafkasgoldfish posted:I want to remove the texturing on this wall but I've been watching too much Holmes Inspection and now I'm paranoid about asbestos. What is the likelihood this texturing has asbestos considering its type and that the house was built in 1958? Highly unlikely. The paint might contain lead, though!  That style of texturing looks much newer than the 1960s. It may be latex. IIRC some hardware stores sell testing kits; you can test a chip. Asbestos is most typically a hazard when it's friable (powdery & airborne). My house, for example, is sided in asbestos shingle siding The only time I have to wrap myself up is if I am cutting it with a saw.
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Jun 10, 2011 02:00
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Reo posted:I freely admit this is be a stupid question for a frivolous purpose. I want to make a basic box robot costume, but with a working monitor for a face. Try looking for a monitor that is LED backlit, as those typically consume less power. Check the spec sheets to for power consumption and find one that is relatively low. Turn the brightness down as much as you can bear to save a little more. You can roll your own "powerpack" with whatever sized car battery you want, and a car power inverter with the right power rating. The spec sheet for the one you linked says it is 28Amp hours, you could try finding your own battery with more capacity depending on your needs. You'll probably want a Sealed Lead Acid(SLA) battery, so there's less chance of spilling sulfuric acid on yourself. Just make sure it's a 12volt, which is what a car power inverter will expect. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Jun 10, 2011 |
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Jun 10, 2011 02:35
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PainterofCrap posted:Highly unlikely. The paint might contain lead, though! Most of the references I've seen suggest it's the popcorn style of texturing which this is clearly not. Since a random internet personality agreed with my hunch, I'm just gonna throw on my respirator and have at it. Thanks! Incidentally, the only way to test for asbestos is to send a sample off to a lab apparently. Home Depot definitely doesn't carry anything and if they did, it'd just be a couple zip-lock bags and an address of a lab.
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Jun 10, 2011 04:24
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I just bought a marble topped table, when I was in the process of buying it the salesmen suggested giving it a coat of wax to protect it from stains and scratches, he seemed to think that just about any non-liquid wax would do, even turtle wax meant for a car. Now that I've done some research I've come to the conclusion it would be a good idea, but have I doubts about using wax made for cars or laminate floors on my new table. Unfortunately all the sites I've found are pretty vague on what wax to use exactly. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good wax? Is stone sealer similar? I've seen it mentioned but it seems to be meant for stone floors not counter tops or tables.
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Jun 10, 2011 08:00
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You can get stone sealer that's meant for countertops. It comes in a spray can and pretty easy to find.
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Jun 10, 2011 18:10
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I'm moving into a new apartment tomorrow; it's a newly renovated unit in a 100-year-old mansion. I did a solo walkthrough about an hour ago and noticed a fairly large gap under my front door (which exists into a common hallway). A couple of the other units' doors were the same way. I included my drivers license for scale. Do they even make draft stoppers that big? Any other ideas?
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Jun 10, 2011 20:04
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