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Manifest posted:I've always just done two sprays of dullcote. Is the glosscote layer just there to give it a thicker shell? Yeah. Everyone always says to do it, but unless you are carrying metal models around loose I don't think you need to worry about two coats of matte chipping.
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Jun 11, 2011 00:03
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Manifest posted:I've always just done two sprays of dullcote. Is the glosscote layer just there to give it a thicker shell? Does two things: one, it adds a nice candy shell that actively protects your models from being damaged, and two, it acts as a security barrier when your dullcote wears off: when you start seeing shiny spots on your space marine shoulderpads, you know it's time to dullcote them again. Plus, I'd rather not have my painjobs ruined by cheese-and-ham-fisted grognards or tacky-fingered prepubes that have no idea how to handle a model. Yes, this is a problem for me. 
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Jun 11, 2011 00:11
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Decided to see what I could do with the air brush just leaving a coat of white over the black primer. I am impressed, even though I will be stripping this at a later date to give it a proper undercoat and match the yellow right its amazing how easy and fast this went.  I wish my primer was already here... *edit* This took about a half hour most of it being stopping to give the yellow a chance to dry and taping with some success.
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Jun 11, 2011 01:36
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I think I might be getting better at this. 
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Jun 11, 2011 02:23
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The difference between gloss and matte finishes is that a matte finish is a "cracked" version of the gloss coat. Painting gloss, then matte, allows a solid layer underneath that protects your models better than matte by itself. I've always just done two layers of matte coating, but I'm lazy and never thought about it before. I have much more trouble with models breaking then I do paint rubbing off.
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Jun 11, 2011 02:53
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Inverse Icarus posted:I think I might be getting better at this. You are.  Your lines are cleaner, you metal looks really good. Your highlighting on the cloak needs some work. Maybe thinner paint? I'm having a hard time coming up with a nice purple blend of my own so I feel ya there. You could try highlighting the black on the hair but I think that clean, flat black looks better than not well done highlights, and black is harder to highlight than a lot of other colors.
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Jun 11, 2011 03:03
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GoodBee posted:You are. just do a feint drybrush of a dark blue or grey on the hair. You can't have fur/hair/whatever without drybrushing! It's like the table quality painter's most sacred creed.
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Jun 11, 2011 03:10
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Miles O'Brian posted:This is how I do it; Awesome thanks!
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Jun 11, 2011 04:53
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So yeah I painted a stompa now you all get image spam. The whole thing:   Grots and gubbins:      This guy made his own little mini-stompa  Mek:  
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Jun 11, 2011 06:44
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I know it's perfectly in line with your scheme, but honestly it seems a little too monochrome. That much surface area and only really the one shade of blue. Maybe vary the tone a little bit?
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Jun 11, 2011 06:51
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Yeah it's monochrome but I tried doing different shades of blue and it looked weird. In my defense the combo of enchanted blue and metallics is basically the worst thing ever to photograph. There's more variation in metallic shades and weathering than is evident in the pictures. Edit also I should have done more checks but ughhhh.
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Jun 11, 2011 06:55
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Yeah, I can see where the particular light setup can wash out those metals in the full body shots. Must be tough to shoot something that basically fills your tent. Up there on the closeups of the shoulder and whatnot it looks like you've got good stuff happening. Maybe wash over some of the blues, like they've been painted at different times and weathered at different rates? Or do that and then repaint more blue over the top of them for a touched up section? Dunno. I'm still jealous of your sponge technique or however it is that you do that. Fix fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Jun 11, 2011 07:12
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Thanks man. I'll spend some time mucking around with it tomorrow. A lot of my normal techniques (aka cheats) using washes, etc don't work on something this big. So I'm having to figure out new methods. And you just reminded me (how could I forget?): That little platform with the mini-stompa? Magnetized! I magged up one of my deffkoptas to fit on it. Now I can run it as the weird deffkopta-launching stompa GW released a sheet for. Probably never will, but hey, it looks cool. edit quote:I'm still jealous of your sponge technique or however it is that you do that.
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Jun 11, 2011 07:21
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Fyrbrand posted:So yeah I painted a stompa now you all get image spam. I love this. You sir are awesome.
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Jun 11, 2011 08:17
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Real hurthling! posted:just do a feint drybrush of a dark blue or grey on the hair. You can't have fur/hair/whatever without drybrushing! It's like the table quality painter's most sacred creed. I went to do this, and then realized that apparently she has crap in her hair that I didn't notice before. She has like bones woven in, and headbands or whatever. I ignored the headbands, but painted the bones.  
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Jun 11, 2011 09:16
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Fyrbrand posted:So yeah I painted a stompa now you all get image spam. drat, I love blue Orks. If I were to start my orks all over I would do blue so hard. I got a red-orange-yellow thing going on my guys. And be more specific on that "sponge" stuff. Did you do it for both the blue and the scratches? Was it really with a sponge?
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Jun 11, 2011 15:08
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will blow your mind.
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Fyrbrand posted:So yeah I painted a stompa now you all get image spam. Its things like this that makes me want to make a ork army
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Jun 11, 2011 15:10
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Fyrbrand posted:So yeah I painted a stompa now you all get image spam. 
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Jun 11, 2011 15:49
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah it's monochrome but I tried doing different shades of blue and it looked weird. In my defense the combo of enchanted blue and metallics is basically the worst thing ever to photograph. There's more variation in metallic shades and weathering than is evident in the pictures. If you did the skull plates on the head and chest in white instead of blue I think that would help a lot. It looks great though.
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Jun 11, 2011 16:31
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WhiteOutMouse posted:drat, I love blue Orks. If I were to start my orks all over I would do blue so hard. Thanks dude (and everyone else). The blue is not done with sponges. I basecoat the entire vehicle in boltgun metal. Then I take a lovely brush and go to town stippling at random over the model. Depending on the project, I may do all my washes, rust, etc before the blue. Here I did not, as the model was so big I would be wasting a ton of effort that would be covered up. On my smaller models, like kans, I then go over the blue with a 50/50 enchanted/ice mix, leaving a little of the first layer showing. On the big stompa, that didn't look too hot. But it looks nice on smaller stuff- helps the blue pop. The weathering was done with foam, but people tend to call it sponge weathering. I use blister foam or pluck foam I've pulled from model trays. At a suggestion from PV, I did successively lighter layers of Scorched Brown, Brazen Brass, and Boltgun Metal. It's super easy to do. Just dip the foam into thinned paint, then dab some off so it's not too heavy on the foam (unless you want super heavy weathering I guess). Then start dabbing it on edges or wherever. I do sponge weathering on some of my marine stuff too, using just black then boltgun. Edit: Chenghiz posted:If you did the skull plates on the head and chest in white instead of blue I think that would help a lot. It looks great though. poo poo that's a good idea. I messed around with it a bit just now, per Fix's suggestions, but basically I am completely over any more painting on this thing. I did some serious marathon assembly/conversion/painting to have it ready and I barely want to look at it, heh. Can't wait to show up to the campaign-ending Apoc game tomorrow, to have it die on turn 1.  Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 16:36 on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Jun 11, 2011 16:33
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I also play Deathskullz and I'd love to have that Stompa. Nice job!
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Jun 11, 2011 16:39
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Whoa, loving Pine Sol's crazy. I dropped my Grey Seer in to strip the Krylon Flat White so I could properly clean and scrub the mini before repriming, and when I came back two hours later, the water had gone opaque and the paint sloughed off in chunks when I picked it up. That's absolutely nuts. Does it work its way through sealers, too? I'm giving serious thought to repainting my original Clanrats now. e: also, Tamiya white putty afixes sand to bases like gangbusters, hot drat. Blade_of_tyshalle fucked around with this message at 17:05 on Jun 11, 2011 |
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Jun 11, 2011 16:44
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Blade_of_tyshalle posted:Whoa, loving Pine Sol's crazy. I dropped my Grey Seer in to strip the Krylon Flat White so I could properly clean and scrub the mini before repriming, and when I came back two hours later, the water had gone opaque and the paint sloughed off in chunks when I picked it up. That's absolutely nuts. Does it work its way through sealers, too? I'm giving serious thought to repainting my original Clanrats now. Pine-sol makes plastic soft, so beware of that. I prefer Simple Green for plastic minis because it doesn't ever make them soft.
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Jun 11, 2011 17:18
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Chenghiz posted:Pine-sol makes plastic soft, so beware of that. I prefer Simple Green for plastic minis because it doesn't ever make them soft. Indeed, a quick scrub with a toothbrush after will start to wear down much of the raised detail on plastic.
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Jun 11, 2011 17:25
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So, I was back at my parents' this weekend, looking at my old warhams (last touched around 10 years ago) - and I've been considering getting back into painting, mainly for D&D. Surprisingly (for me, anyway) various of my old paints are still liquid albeit somewhat settled out (the old-style pop-top paints all survived, the newer screw-tops dried out) - but all my brushes are beyond hosed, having as they do, no bristles left, at all. Can anyone suggest a decent UK vendor for brushes for someone who's not yet sure of his skill, and for whom it's definitely not yet worth investing in Winsor and Newton? Thanks in advance.
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Jun 11, 2011 17:28
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magnetbox posted:Indeed, a quick scrub with a toothbrush after will start to wear down much of the raised detail on plastic. Oh poo poo? I have no idea if Simple Green is available in Canada.
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Jun 11, 2011 17:31
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Inverse Icarus posted:I went to do this, and then realized that apparently she has crap in her hair that I didn't notice before. She has like bones woven in, and headbands or whatever. already looks a lot better/less like the character dunked her head in crude oil. I always misinterpret details on bare or black primed metal too. I switched to a dark grey primer and it's a lot easier to tell what the gently caress you're looking at.
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Jun 11, 2011 17:40
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Xeno filth? Not on my watch:      I've been painting these guys bit by bit for two and a half years. As a result, they don't look amazing since I painted a lot of stuff (most of the white, initial blue basecoat, red fists etc) when I wasn't as good of a painter. I hadn't touched a paintbrush in a month and it was a fun way to get back into the rhythm of it. PS that Stompa owns, but I'll echo the sentiment for more color variation. I'd paint a few plates rustier or using Tin Bitz or something, just to break things up.
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Jun 11, 2011 18:13
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Does anyone know of a US website that stocks the larger 60 mL bottles of Vallejo primer? Their website only lists some Spanish ones, and the war store only seems to have the tiny bottles. And this might be silly but updating the OP with popular hobby supply sites might be an idea.
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Jun 11, 2011 18:13
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Got over my painter ADD to finish a Cryx Stalker today. Just needs a smear of snow paste to finish everything off and tie it into my other models: 
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Jun 11, 2011 18:15
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richyp posted:You could try painting the whole area in astronomican grey, drybrush white then wash with a light wash of badab black/blue mix. I ended up looking at what I had, and decided on 3 parts gray to 1 part "Menoth White" (p3 paints). It worked alright, but is more brown than blue (which I'm alright with). WIP (still need to drybrush white on top) 
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Jun 11, 2011 19:50
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Mr_Happy_Pants posted:Got over my painter ADD to finish a Cryx Stalker today. Just needs a smear of snow paste to finish everything off and tie it into my other models: I really like the shading in your greens. How did you do it?
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Jun 11, 2011 19:51
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 TRIP REPORT; I'd heard good things about a product called Biostrip 20 so I picked up a tub to try for myself. It promised to be an easy paint stripping method that was Non-toxic, Non-caustic, Odourless and safe for plastic. Here are my findings. Take 1; 500ml Tub of Biostrip 20, Thin plastic tub of Bad Moon Orks, Stiff brush, Kitchen  Kinda looks like PVA/Elmers or something, with a similiar texture. Not quite odourless, but certainly not unpleasant. Coat models in tub.  Celebrate that you made it this far without killing yourself!  Wait an hour (or until you're inebriated)  Time to check! Looks... disappointing. I turned the tub upside down a couple times to spread the fluid during the hour wait. Oh well, lets scrub one up in the name of science!  Run under hot water and scrub with stiff brush. Refuse to wear gloves because FUCKIN SOCIETY AINT TELLIN ME WHAT  Hey... it actually turned out great! I did all of them because gently caress waiting longer. Glue is intact, I actually had to break an arm off to reach the nooks and crannies of a single Ork and it was a mighty struggle. Metal Tankbusta torso comes up clean as the day it was cast. Plastic holds its detail despite scrubbing. Its a little discoloured by the primer, but otherwise clean as I could have hoped.  All in all, this is now my all-purpose paint stripping method. I even put the lid back on the tub o' orks and intend to use the same fluid to do a few more. In retrospect, I would probably wear some gloves, my hands feel a little dry. I also managed to transfer the Biostrip via my fingers onto the brush handle, which now has bare patches.
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Jun 12, 2011 01:33
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Safety tip: If you are using anything that breaks down and strips acryllic paint then you probably want to have something on your hands. Without gloves then odds are that at best you'll end up with peeling skin.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:02
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Inverse Icarus posted:What palettes do you all use? My tabletop. I recently pulled almost all the layered paint off of it in one go. It's about four mm thick and 6"x25". It's nice how acrylics dry into a plasticine substance that doesn't bond well to finished, smooth surfaces.
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Jun 12, 2011 02:24
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Fryband what blue are you using for that Stompa, because its going on my Epic orks. Can't wait to start painting 6mm.
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Jun 12, 2011 03:05
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So I am trying to get one of my models off a base. I put it in a freezer. Is that the right path to removing the base?
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Jun 12, 2011 03:11
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Depends. Was it assembled with super glue or plastic cement?
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Jun 12, 2011 03:25
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This thread is intimidating as poo poo, but I have a small question. I've decided to bite the bullet and paint the figures that came with the Blood Bowl game I've purchased recently. I really don't have more money to throw around on stuff like this, so I'm looking for the cheapest intro paint set you think would work for slapping together a couple teams. I don't need magic. Just some stuff to get the job done. I went to one store and the intro Games Workshop paint set was like $30 plus dollars. Am I crazy for thinking that seems pricey for what I want?
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Jun 12, 2011 03:34
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MasterSlowPoke posted:Depends. Was it assembled with super glue or plastic cement? I got it off :p It was a scary process!
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Jun 12, 2011 03:34
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