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I am far from a Subaru guru, but I do know bearings better than most. Idler is a real possibility. Access to a stethoscope? Might be able to zero in on it from the timing cover.
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Jun 11, 2011 07:23
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jamal posted:that bolt holds the transmission case together and the pitch stop mount to the trans. You'll want to take off the IC, feed that bolt through the hole on the black bracket right above it, and then tighten it down. Did you have a clutch changed or transmission work done to the car or something? I have no idea how or why that would be like that. Thanks Jamal! You're clearly right. And I'm mystified as to why it would be that why. It must have been some work the PO had done. I'll follow your advice, tighten that up in there and see if anything else looks out of place. I appreciate the info.
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Jun 11, 2011 13:55
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Cat Terrist posted:You do not need DBW to do that. Reference my STI, which has that and more and that's a cable. All this is doing is proving electronic nonsense is worthless when a good old fashioned cable Just. loving. WORKS Is there some problem with Subaru DBW? Does it affect the latest cars?
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Jun 11, 2011 15:52
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Shaocaholica posted:Is there some problem with Subaru DBW? Does it affect the latest cars? No, ct is just pissed. I can't really blame him. The dbw on dodge's sucks even worse though. So much delay between when you floor it and when the ecu decides to actually do something.
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Jun 11, 2011 16:35
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Okay, my '99 OBS made the 1400-mile trip over the mountains hauling a trailer with all my worldly possessions in it. It now has 156k miles on the clock. Before the trip I had a bunch of work done to make sure it was roadworthy - timing belt, brakes all the way around, tune-up, oil change, and addition of a trailer hitch. The real issues were the brakes (leaking cylinders in the back) and the tune-up (one spark plug wire had worn through and was occasionally shorting out, causing lack of power). I also had the AC recharged. The car drove fine on the trip, and it's been two weeks since then with no issues... until a couple days ago. I got a CEL, which I haven't checked yet because I was in such a hurry to get packed for the trip that I forgot my code reader, and I haven't found an Advance Auto or similar yet that will let me read the code for free. However, the light was coming on occasionally long before the trip indicating "decrease in catalyst performance" or something like that, so I suspect it's that issue rearing its head again. Like I said, the car still drives fine, though it does feel maybe a little down on power now. Yesterday a more worrisome problem appeared - a loud "thud" noise that seems to come from the front left corner of the car somewhere. It doesn't happen all the time - maybe three or four times over the last two days - but I've been trying to take notes on what might lead to it and it seems like it's more likely to do it if I accelerate (and force a downshift) while turning the wheels to the left, like accelerating into a left-hand turn from a stop light or accelerating around a round-about. This is with a 2.2L/4EAT, by the way. The sound is kind of horrifying - it sounds like the diff or axle or something is trying to break free of the car - and I can feel it through the floorboards. Also, I don't know if it's my imagination, but using the air conditioner seems to make the thud stronger. I'm going to get the CEL checked on Monday one way or the other, but is there anything else I can look at? The transmission fluid level was good when I checked it today; nothing looks amiss as far as the CV boots or the ball joint or any of that stuff. The only weird thing is that there appeared to be water still dripping down the control arm and onto the floor of the garage, despite the car having been parked there for almost four hours now. I've been using the A/C pretty regularly (I never used to use it before) because I suddenly find myself in an area that's hot and humid. So maybe the humidity has something to do with the pool of unevaporated water on the garage floor. But it still seems weird to me. I just put $1700 into this car so I hope it lasts me until the end of the year and then makes the return trip through the mountains without needing a new transmission or something.  Edit: In retrospect it may have done it a handful of times while driving through the mountains, though at the time I eventually convinced myself that the noise was coming from the tow hitch and I was just feeling it through the chassis. infrared35 fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jun 12, 2011 |
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Jun 12, 2011 03:01
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jamal posted:Drive by wire is fine once you re-map it. Plus it lets you do cool stuff like anti-lag, flat foot shifting, and launch control. How much wind tunnel/simulation testing do you do on the aerodynamic "package" on a car like that? Or do you just test it in the real world and tweak it iteratively?
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Jun 12, 2011 03:09
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pretty much nothing. There are some real aerodynamicists who give pointers here and there but it's mostly a trial and error thing. An actual smart person made us the rear wing and we spent all of last year developing the front end of the car to balance it out. March last year:  August last year:  November last year  Now:   Lap times have improved significantly and the driver is a lot happier with how it feels. The car has two broken suspension position sensors, so if those were working we'd have a much better idea of the aero balance of the car. Last time out we only did three laps, telemetry didn't work, and the motor blew up. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jun 12, 2011 |
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Jun 12, 2011 05:54
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Shaocaholica posted:Is there some problem with Subaru DBW? Does it affect the latest cars? Lets see, the XT had the most woeful DBW that was a shocking progrmming, the 06 has never been as crisp as the STI's cable OR had the throttle response of the 20 year older VR4 and frankly DBW is a supposably good idea with lousy execution that has never given you a scrap more that cable. And now yes when it fucks up it's either spend lots of money fixing or tear your hair out trying to find the fault, while all the while every singe cable issue I have ever had has been a wrecker run and a 1/2 hour fix. It's likely I'm going to be forced to go aftermarket to fix a stupid programming mistake if another firmware change doesnt fix it and that REALLY pisses me off. Becuase I change one thing then I'll change another and in five years time everyone will be pointing to my car as the ultimate badass WRX just like the VR4 got such a reputation with all I did to that - that's fine for a race car, it's not fine for a road car. I do not want to go down this path
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Jun 12, 2011 11:18
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Rontalvos posted:So I pulled the accessory belts off my 2000 outback with the 2.5L and took it for a spin around the block, even with nothing running it still has the above-4k-only-under-load squeal that I'm now thinking is the timing belt? or a timing belt idler? Could be the Water pump or the Tensioner. Either way, after 20k miles since belt neither is going to be under warranty.
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Jun 12, 2011 12:31
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A local guy is selling an obd2 EG33 with harness, ecu, and sensors for 700 bucks. AI tell me not to buy this.
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Jun 12, 2011 15:35
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Slow is Fast posted:A local guy is selling an obd2 EG33 with harness, ecu, and sensors for 700 bucks. AI tell me not to buy this.
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Jun 12, 2011 16:51
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Hey Jamal, I know this is a long shot but if you have someone with a 2011 WRX that wants to dump the stock wheels and (low mileage) stock tires lemme know. Could use a second set and my tires are getting bald. That said if you have some slightly used stock tires you want out of there I'd take those off your hands too.
Tremblay fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Jun 13, 2011 |
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Jun 13, 2011 01:41
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Cat Terrist posted:DBW Not for nothing, but seeing as you're pulling your hair out on this issue: Wouldn't it be worth at least the time investment to start testing components/comparing with a similarly equipped car before you start throwing more parts at it? since this was apparently not an issue before? In as much as finding another local with an 06 and start testing the electrical components attached to the DBW and engine management (so tps/throttlebody/maf/etc - or whatever equivalent components) measure resistance and see if you can note a trending/difference between the systems? i.e. lagged response/dropped voltage kind of thing (deadspot in the tps?)? Not saying you probably haven't already done this to some degree in talking to other mechanics/experts - but I'm talking literally doing the tests side by side.
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Jun 13, 2011 03:52
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I'm selling the stock stereo out of my 07 WRX if anyone is looking for a cheap upgrade to MP3 cds / Sirius / Aux in. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=34347255
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Jun 13, 2011 05:48
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DEUCE SLUICE posted:I'm selling the stock stereo out of my 07 WRX if anyone is looking for a cheap upgrade to MP3 cds / Sirius / Aux in. If not (you did get the cable out!), we should talk shipping. Send me a PM! 
Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:53 on Jun 13, 2011 |
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Jun 13, 2011 06:48
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I'm trying to find an audio recorder that can capture the weird squeal that I have above 4k rpms above half throttle in any gear in my 2000 OBW, my dad who is no subaru expert but is a car guru thinks it might be transmission related? or CV joints? I feel like CV joints would be a clunking and would make noise all the time instead of just at high rpms under load. Is there a great subaru shop in the SoCal area it might be worth taking my wagon to? Fake edit: How much play should there be in a 5-speed stick? Is 1-2 inches of sideway play while in-gear too much? How do I fix that? Real edit: VVVVV I'm new to subarus, I'm not familiar with any shops anywhere, care to elaborate? Rontalvos fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jun 13, 2011 |
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Jun 13, 2011 07:10
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Rontalvos posted:Is there a great subaru shop in the SoCal area it might be worth taking my wagon to? I can think of at least one
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Jun 13, 2011 07:12
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Rontalvos posted:Real edit: VVVVV I'm new to subarus, I'm not familiar with any shops anywhere, care to elaborate? New to the thread, too, apparently. jamal works at a shop. He just did engine work for nm's Legacy, in fact.
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Jun 13, 2011 08:21
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 Derp. and here I thought I was following the thread pretty well. I'm in the CA central valley but will be moving to socal in 2 months for school, if I can't figure anything out by dicking around with it myself I'll probably resort to taking it in. Sorry for not recognizing you jamal, apparently my brain is on cruise tonight.
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Jun 13, 2011 09:09
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ssjonizuka posted:Not for nothing, but seeing as you're pulling your hair out on this issue: Wouldn't it be worth at least the time investment to start testing components/comparing with a similarly equipped car before you start throwing more parts at it? since this was apparently not an issue before? In as much as finding another local with an 06 and start testing the electrical components attached to the DBW and engine management (so tps/throttlebody/maf/etc - or whatever equivalent components) measure resistance and see if you can note a trending/difference between the systems? i.e. lagged response/dropped voltage kind of thing (deadspot in the tps?)? Not saying you probably haven't already done this to some degree in talking to other mechanics/experts - but I'm talking literally doing the tests side by side. I also have an MY07 and thats the first thing we tried. Yes, there's a 04 STI, a 06 and an 07 WRX in the garage. With a MY99 WRX on the cards as well. THe plot thickens however - the problem is gone again BUT the multimeter came back with some food for thought as to voltages across the entire car - not in the DBW system however which was unexpected. We have in general a step down of .5 volt when the lights are on over the 07. There is also for the way of a hint also a smell of sulfate in the engine bay - anyone like to guess what we are now thinking the issue is?
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Jun 13, 2011 12:21
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Cat Terrist posted:I also have an MY07 and thats the first thing we tried. I was saying 06 for 06 just because wouldn't the canbus system create enough differences in the 07? Good to see you (have always been, admittedly) doing your homework. 
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Jun 13, 2011 13:53
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jamal posted:I can think of at least one
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Jun 13, 2011 16:06
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Hey all, I've got an '07 Legacy Spec.B that's approaching 60k miles and needs some maintenance. I brought it into Autologix in Kitchener because I've heard that the guy is great with Subarus and he's highly recommended from people in the area. Anyways, I'm getting the tranny and rear diff fluid changed(with the S-line fluid or whatever it's called), brake fluid, coolant flush and grease the calipers (these loving calipers need service every ~12 months it seems). He guessed it would take about 4.5 hours and quoted about $600 for the work. Does this sound fair? I think the tranny fluid is like $15/qt? Not sure how much I need but he thought the tranny itself needed about 4.5L.
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Jun 13, 2011 19:04
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Final-Reality posted:Hey all, I've got an '07 Legacy Spec.B that's approaching 60k miles and needs some maintenance. I brought it into Autologix in Kitchener because I've heard that the guy is great with Subarus and he's highly recommended from people in the area. I've seen his ads on Kijiji and emailed him back when I was trying to get my EJ25 heads cleaned. He never replied
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Jun 13, 2011 19:09
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Sockington posted:I've seen his ads on Kijiji and emailed him back when I was trying to get my EJ25 heads cleaned. I'm surprised.. I stopped in on my lunch hour and spent 2 hours there talking to the guy. Mostly about subies in general but he showed me his GC Impreza with a 3.3L H6 SVX swap, a motor he's putting in an STI that'll run 30lbs of boost, NO intercooler and meth injection (and 91 pump fuel apparently), and a Ferrari F355 that caught fire that he's rebuilding. He definitely knows his poo poo, I'm just wondering if the price is fair.
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Jun 13, 2011 19:45
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Final-Reality posted:I'm surprised.. I stopped in on my lunch hour and spent 2 hours there talking to the guy. Mostly about subies in general but he showed me his GC Impreza with a 3.3L H6 SVX swap, a motor he's putting in an STI that'll run 30lbs of boost, NO intercooler and meth injection (and 91 pump fuel apparently), and a Ferrari F355 that caught fire that he's rebuilding. He definitely knows his poo poo, I'm just wondering if the price is fair. Call the dealership and an independent shop for the same repairs. That will give you a ballpark on the estimate's validity.
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Jun 13, 2011 20:52
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Sockington posted:Call the dealership and an independent shop for the same repairs. That will give you a ballpark on the estimate's validity. Thanks, I'll stop in at my friends VW mechanic to see what he'd charge.. I already told the stealership in town no thanks and they were the ones who told me I needed the work done, so I won't bother going back in to ask how much it'd cost (they quoted me $100 per axle just to grease the calipers). While I'm at it, is there anything else that should be serviced while I'm having this done? Other than the banjo filter (I'm hoping to have a downpipe installed this summer and I'll have the filter replaced then, apparently it's much easier to get at with the DP removed). VVV Yeah, they sound and feel rough.. I thought the front pads might be getting worn but the dealership said they looked fine. I had the same "rough" sounding/feeling brakes a year ago and greasing the calipers fixed it right up so I'm assuming it's the same problem again. Salty winters and all that.. Final-Reality fucked around with this message at 21:02 on Jun 13, 2011 |
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Jun 13, 2011 20:55
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Final-Reality posted:Thanks, I'll stop in at my friends VW mechanic to see what he'd charge.. I already told the stealership in town no thanks and they were the ones who told me I needed the work done, so I won't bother going back in to ask how much it'd cost (they quoted me $100 per axle just to grease the calipers). Are you actually having any issues with the brakes that would require them to be re-greased? I don't think my 03's have ever been re-greased and when I replaced my pads 6 months ago, the pins were still looking just fine.
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Jun 13, 2011 20:59
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I got an alignment a few days ago after installing struts/springs, and the car corners well, but something doesn't feel right. It's a bit dead on center, and takes more effort when turning in. Zero toe all around, here's the camber specs: LF: -1.7 RF: -1.6 LR: -1.0 RR: -1.5 I'm thinking the non-adjustable rear camber is what's making the car feel funny, especially that right rear wheel. Should I go with rear camber bushings (KCA326) which are supposedly a pain in the rear end, or replace the lateral links (KTA125)? It's also possible the shop screwed up and didn't re-tighten the bolts and my toe slipped out. Btw Jamal, you were right about the ALK. The press is crooked, and damaged the control arm.
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Jun 13, 2011 23:19
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So, my friends mechanic said he could do all the fluid changes for like $250-300 if I supply the tranny fluid, which is a lot more reasonable I think. He said the coolant shouldn't need to be flushed until the timing belt needs to be changed so I'm going to skip that. Now, can I get the Subaru S-Line tranny fluid from the dealership? Or should I go somewhere else? Also, any idea how much I would need for the STI 6-speed + R180 diff?
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Jun 14, 2011 00:00
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Final-Reality posted:So, my friends mechanic said he could do all the fluid changes for like $250-300 if I supply the tranny fluid, which is a lot more reasonable I think. He said the coolant shouldn't need to be flushed until the timing belt needs to be changed so I'm going to skip that. Wasn't the Spec.B a 6speed in a 5speed box? I thought I remember jamal saying something like they weren't as strong as the STi 6speed (I'm probably wrong though). EDIT:\/\/\/ Ya, that was it. The new one. Sockington fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 00:26
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Sockington posted:Wasn't the Spec.B a 6speed in a 5speed box? I thought I remember jamal saying something like they weren't as strong as the STi 6speed (I'm probably wrong though). edit: I'm also pretty sure the Spec B 6-speed was the same one that the Australians shoved in their H6 Legacy/Liberty. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 00:28
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there are some JDM stis without dccd as well. Should be the same deal. I'm not a fan of the new 6-speed box.
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Jun 14, 2011 02:00
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jamal posted:there are some JDM stis without dccd as well. Should be the same deal. However, like you said, the DCCD system was only added on the Type RA version 1 STI; v2 and v3 also only had DCCD with an STI Type RA. I'm unclear on when DCCD became standard for "all" STIs, but my guess is v7 with the advent of the 6-speed. The Type-RA 5-speeds (in both the STI-tuned Legacy special editions and the Impreza WRX STI) are a little burlier with wider gears. I seem to remember jamal said awhile ago that this became the default for USDM WRXes after 03 (mid-02?) because of our penchant for busting gearboxes like apes. Also note that if you're going to install a JDM 5- or 6-speed that the 5th and 6th gear ratios are a lot shorter than the USDM units; it makes the JDM STIs absolute rocket ships (even at our elevation you can crack off a mid-13 second quarter in a V2) but you should be aware of the fuel economy consequence. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 02:40
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no I mean there are JDM 6-speeds without DCCD that came in some of the ver 7 stis. We have one in the drat blue GC. Speaking of which, shocks and wheels and uprights came off today. JRZs should be here by the end of the week. Going to put this stuff together in the meatime:
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Jun 14, 2011 03:04
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Oh, I didn't realize. What's the black thing at the top? Looks kind of like it mates to the back of the hub assembly, but I don't understand why they'd be separate like that. e: I guess that must be one of the front suspension uprights. It looks a lot burlier than the stuff sitting on the back of my hub. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 03:15
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So after further investigation that squeal sound is evident if I stab the gas with the car stationary and the trans in neutral at high rpms. Now to test it with the clutch pedal depressed to completely rule out the trans as a sound source. What does this mean? Timing belt? Engine bearings?
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Jun 14, 2011 03:44
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Where are you in socal? Our shop is aq motorsports in torrance you can just come by any time (9-6 during the week) and I'll look at it.Seat Safety Switch posted:Oh, I didn't realize. yeah it's an sti upright, and bolt in front bearing/hub assembly along with a new rear hub and bearing for a 5x114 conversion on our new GC race car. About a grand total to do it.
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Jun 14, 2011 04:38
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jamal posted:yeah it's an sti upright, and bolt in front bearing/hub assembly along with a new rear hub and bearing for a 5x114 conversion on our new GC race car. About a grand total to do it.
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Jun 14, 2011 05:25
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I'm in the central valley but will be moving to LA in august to go to school, and I'm in LA once a month or so, next time I'm down there I will definitely come in.
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Jun 14, 2011 05:39
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