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so I had a stud that sheared off for my exhaust manifold and it's causing a small leak, is this something that can wait till I have the money to get it done (a month or so) or is this something to max out my credit card to do because it will gently caress up the turbo?
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Jun 2, 2011 23:57
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You're going to lose some pressure, and you will notice the difference - but trying to get those studs out is a bitch and a half. You can try to gently cinch down the others, but if one snapped, the others can't be too far off. That said, if it isn't throwing an MIL from this, you'll be fine - but boost and gas mileage will suck.
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Jun 3, 2011 22:22
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Faerunner posted:He finally ran the car a bit with the hood up and noticed a funny hiss. So, after popping that back together the displayed fuel economy on the SID has gone from a solid 16MPG to a solid 21MPG, mixed highway/city, though it's been a bit more highway than usual with my fiance driving it to work across the city at night (Though 376 has had a lot of stop and go traffic). Occasionally the engine will surge a bit when it's cold, but no more than about 1200RPM, idling at around 800-1000 normally. I still want an answer to #3 up there: Does that hose need a clamp or will suction be enough to keep it in place? Or, given that it's already kind of fallen apart once, should we just replace the brake booster vacuum hose? It's only about $40 online and we've got a decent sized order queuing up on RockAuto already.
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Jun 4, 2011 06:12
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Faerunner posted:I still want an answer to #3 up there: Does that hose need a clamp or will suction be enough to keep it in place? Or, given that it's already kind of fallen apart once, should we just replace the brake booster vacuum hose? It's only about $40 online and we've got a decent sized order queuing up on RockAuto already. Yay for a rainy weekend here keeping me from finishing the drat 9K yet again. I've never had one fail - but if the hose is going bad anyhow, I'd seek to replace that to ensure it's working properly. If you cinch down a clamp too hard, you've just bought a new hose and valves, anyhow. For $40, I wouldn't screw around with it.
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Jun 6, 2011 18:15
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I need a wheel  but I can't find them online... at least not that match what I have. I can't find the style I have and I can't afford to shell out a grand for a whole new set. Anyone parting out a saab in the area doesn't have wheel that match mine either. Any chance anyone has one I can buy?
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Jun 8, 2011 21:43
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Four Banger posted:I need a wheel Check Craigslist or SaabNet. Daily. I bought a complete wheels-and-tires 5x110 w/ new goodyears (under 500 miles) for a couple hundred bucks. I'd offer you my 'spare' set of redrilled ASAs just to take them, but you're too drat far away, and they are NOT worth shipping.
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Jun 8, 2011 21:49
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Viggen posted:Check Craigslist or SaabNet. Daily. I bought a complete wheels-and-tires 5x110 w/ new goodyears (under 500 miles) for a couple hundred bucks. I've been watching Kijiji (craigslist is dead here) and saabs don't show up very often locally, especially being parted out.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:19
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Four Banger posted:I've been watching Kijiji (craigslist is dead here) and saabs don't show up very often locally, especially being parted out. Yeah, you've got your same share of nutty collectors there, but really, SaabNet does have a few canadians who show up, who may be able to give you a good pick-n-pull place. SaabCentral, and SaabLink are also some good choices. I actually got my last set of gen-correct BBS wheels 1400 miles away and ended up getting free shipping when a friend from the area came out to visit.  Is it just beat to poo poo, or you can't get a seal? What's wrong with the one you have? (I've never seen that style in the wild, and I have a set of 90 900 V6 wheels)
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Jun 8, 2011 22:22
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Viggen posted:Yeah, you've got your same share of nutty collectors there, but really, SaabNet does have a few canadians who show up, who may be able to give you a good pick-n-pull place. SaabCentral, and SaabLink are also some good choices. I actually got my last set of gen-correct BBS wheels 1400 miles away and ended up getting free shipping when a friend from the area came out to visit. Curbed it right before putting on the winter steelies. Going down hill in the first storm of the year (which also happened to be an ice storm), rear end in a top hat runs a 2 way stop, I lose control trying to avoid his dumb rear end, spin round 180 smash drivers rear into the curb, cracked it bad. I was like 3 minutes from home too.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:28
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Four Banger posted:Curbed it right before putting on the winter steelies. Well, poo poo. 5x110 is rather rare everywhere, too. I'd suggest just getting whatever cheapest junker you can find from a parts car (or two), and remounting those two. I'll ask around for you, but again, never seen that style in the wild. I love this style, but I'd be damned if I'd pay $500+Shipping.
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Jun 8, 2011 22:36
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Four Banger posted:I need a wheel Here ya go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAAB...=item2eb45d600b
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Jun 8, 2011 22:51
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keykey posted:Here ya go: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SAAB...=item2eb45d600b I guess that would explain why I can never find them when I look for them, they're from a 9-3. Thanks a bunch though. Sent them an email for shipping to Canada and hopefully I cna get one here ASAP so I can get these drat winter tires off.
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Jun 9, 2011 00:18
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You should really be able to go to a yard and pick up a whole set for cheap. Also, my dad wants to buy another house and needs to cut out some loans, sold my step moms 9-5 Aero and is now using my for sale Viggen. Pretty funny seeing a 50 year old racing around in a Viggen with powder coated BBS's. When he left my house he did a block long burn out. Best dad.
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Jun 9, 2011 03:29
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Mcqueen posted:When he left my house he did a block long burn out. Best dad. I've given up on doing those (or attempting to) - last time I did that on my cul-de-sac with the still-in-parts-drat-you-work 9k, I had a smartass 'stang owner ask me if I had an engine fire from the smoke billowing from the front. <  >Sorry, they don't match.  Viggen fucked around with this message at 17:12 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 17:08
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I have to figure out where my power has gone. I have the girlfriends 9-5 today and I couldn't get it to do any burnouts. Is the turbo needle supposed to go into the red? Mine sits at the edge of the yellow. I know it doesn't really mean anything, but it should reflect something, shouldn't it?
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Jun 14, 2011 22:18
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blindjoe posted:I have to figure out where my power has gone. I have the girlfriends 9-5 today and I couldn't get it to do any burnouts. First of all, what year, and LPT or HOT? It should crawl up to yellow, and back down again. Try this quick little test: Get it going very lightly after warmed up, then nearly floor it. See if it does anything, then. I don't have a gauge on my LPT, but I could tell there was a leak by the lack-of-oomph when crawling uphill, and the lack of spool noise-and-feel. If you can't get it to at least mid-yellow, I'd do a pressure test on it (or have it done), your o-rings may have become brittle and it could be sucking up air, the exhaust manifold studs may be loose, or old and brittle, and leaking exhaust.. there's a million little places for these suckers to lose pressure, I swear.
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Jun 14, 2011 23:01
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Viggen posted:First of all, what year, and LPT or HOT? 2002 9-5 linear. The needle sits all the way through yellow and sits right at red. It seems slow, but maybe I am expecting too much. It does have a mitsubishi turbo on it instead of the normal one, and it hasn't had a reflash or anything. I need to figure out how to get open sid, and buy an ecu so I can put the header on it.
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Jun 14, 2011 23:09
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blindjoe posted:2002 9-5 linear. Well, a TD04 with G17 logic ain't gonna do a hell of a lot. It's functioning as it's supposed to, and the dumb-boost gauge is saying you're getting proper pressure for the LPT, so, I'd start with that; you may still be low pressure, but, well, no poo poo - you sure are now.  Make sure you have PCV #6 installed, too. Look up part 55561200, here on eEuro. Pictures were posted earlier in this thread somewhere to identify if you have already had this done. Viggen fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 23:13
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Viggen posted:Well, a TD04 with G17 logic ain't gonna do a hell of a lot. It's functioning as it's supposed to, and the dumb-boost gauge is saying you're getting proper pressure for the LPT, so, I'd start with that; you may still be low pressure, but, well, no poo poo - you sure are now. PCV #6 installed. I also swapped the engine, and done all maintenance that everyone says that needs to be done. I'm keeping my spare engine just incase this one sludges up again or chews through another set of main bearings. Any suggestions on the easiest/cheapest way to get reprogrammed?
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Jun 14, 2011 23:20
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blindjoe posted:Any suggestions on the easiest/cheapest way to get reprogrammed? Get an EC from a thrashed machine and get really friendly with someone who has a Tech2 to remarry everything. If you badflash your EC, you're getting into a shitload of more expense. If your lucky, someone may let you borrow an Aero EC. Make sure you use the proper plugs, blah blah blah, but you seem up to date on that.  Edit: Checked with a few folks I know who store 'known good' for diagnostic, and none have a compatible EC they would loan out.
Viggen fucked around with this message at 23:43 on Jun 14, 2011 |
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Jun 14, 2011 23:32
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Replaced the front brake rotors/pads today. Not coincidentally, discovered something I absolutely loathe about the Saab. Yikes.
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Jun 20, 2011 01:49
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blindjoe posted:
I got a tune for my 900 from JZW tuning out of Colorado. It took a little longer than expected because my spare ecu couldn't be reprogrammed due to age, and I had to source a couple of different ones to try, but I eventually got the tune done for about $300. He was extremely helpful before, during, and after I had the tune done and helped me through some diagnostic issues aswell. His prices are reasonable, I think the tune for T7 ecu's run about $300. You probably wont run into the problem with dead computers like I did. If and when I have another tune done I would probably go to a more local guy in NH who helped me with the dead ECUs so I can have the car there to get more fine tuning for what I want. I would also consider doing it myself, as there are a lot of resources for T5 tuning on your own. There are other companies that will do tunes also, but they are generally twice as much as JZW. TL;DR: http://www.jzwtuning.com/products.shtml Edit: John (JZW) also sends you some nice stickers with a tuned ECU, if that's your thing. localized fucked around with this message at 03:58 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 02:09
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Regarding the previous gen 9-5s with the clamshell type hood -- is there something about the hood that makes it hard to latch closed? It's rare that you see a car driving around with its hood ajar (closed but not fully locked), but I've seen a few 9-5s driving like that. Could it simply be because it's wraparound down the fenders so it's hard to tell if it's closed?
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Jun 20, 2011 03:49
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Faerunner posted:Replaced the front brake rotors/pads today. Not coincidentally, discovered something I absolutely loathe about the Saab. Yikes. Wheels all rashed? They will be. I'm down half my fleet. 91 still ain't working right and loaned out the 2K. Wonder if I'll get either of them back.
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Jun 20, 2011 23:27
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Dinged one spot on the left wheel. But it wasn't the reverse-from-every-other-vehicle-I've-ever-seen-lugs, it was the brake rotors. Even using the caliper bolt trick to get them off it still took about an hour of PB Blaster and violence to get each one off.
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Jun 21, 2011 00:22
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Faerunner posted:Even using the caliper bolt trick to get them off it still took about an hour of PB Blaster and violence to get each one off. You're the right year for that, too. I looked at the rotors on my 2K and said 'oh gently caress this' and paid someone to do them for me. I was then called a complete jerk for giving them such a poo poo job. Bitches get stuck on there good. Won't even share the joy of taking off the decade-old struts. Viggen fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 00:25
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Viggen posted:You're the right year for that, too. I looked at the rotors on my 2K and said 'oh gently caress this' and paid someone to do them for me. I was then called a complete jerk for giving them such a poo poo job. Bitches get stuck on there good. Won't even share the joy of taking off the decade-old struts. You had trouble with your struts? Replacing all four on my car was surprisingly easy. What part did you have trouble with?
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Jun 21, 2011 00:47
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localized posted:You had trouble with your struts? Replacing all four on my car was surprisingly easy. What part did you have trouble with? Getting the front ones off. The car was in CA most of it's life, but it was well-driven (I picked it up with nearly 160k on it at 7 years old), and they were very, very factory. I also left it to sit outside in two years of the worst winters I've ever seen in the desert before I bothered to, it being the 'bad weather car'. Anyone got any new-or-barely-used IDMs for sale? I'd prefer black, but I'd take a red for the 91 (if I ever get the f'n thing finished). It's LH, not Trionic - so whoop-de-doo.
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Jun 21, 2011 01:19
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Oh, also, a side note: Driving a lot more highway miles (Though a lot are stop and go I hate 10PM rush hour) the last tank, we only pulled 18.8MPG Going to have to fix that. Tires are inflated properly and relatively new, MAF has been cleaned, oil doesn't need changed yet, cruise control is always on when possible, never driven above 70 (Well... almost never) What's next on the "Improve the fuel economy" list? It's an SE so it's HOT, not LPT, I'm sure that has some appreciable effect, even outside full boost, right?
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Jun 21, 2011 01:41
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Faerunner posted:Oh, also, a side note: Driving a lot more highway miles (Though a lot are stop and go What kind of tires? I had some cheapo generic Hs on my LPT, and man, when they started to wear I went from 30+ down to about 22.. highway. They were wearing fine, just, crappy tires. I bought some new-to-me BBS w/ nearly-brand-new Goodyear all-seasons, balanced, and back to about 28. HOT is always a bit more hungry than LPT, but unless you drive really aggressively, you should still be able to pull 26+ highway. Worst I did with my HOT was about 22. Try gently tightening the bolts on your exaust manifold? If that's leaking even just a little, you're going to be sucking air and it's not going to be nearly as happy. Check the O rings for your intake nipple and bypass; they could be getting old and crackly. They're under $10 to replace both. Check the hoses from the boost control solenoid. Look for leaks, crackling. How's your boost pressure? Still easily hopping up into the yellow? If so you probably don't need to adjust the wastegate. If you've had the battery disco'd for awhile, it's going to retrain itself, and will go kind of crappy and lurchy for a little while.
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Jun 21, 2011 01:54
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Tires are Cooper CS4 Touring, boost gauge goes up to the line right before the red zone, battery hasn't been disconnected in the year we've owned it. It just started raining a bit and my fiance needs to head to work soon, so I'll pass on what he needs to check on in the morning to him. Thanks. I'm tempted to blame at least 4MPG loss due to his driving though. His foot is like lead bolted to mahogany strapped to a fruitcake covered in black hole material sometimes. I just filled the tank this morning so I'm going to insist since I paid for the gas that he drive a lot more nicely this time around for scientific purposes.
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Jun 21, 2011 02:09
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Faerunner posted:Tires are Cooper CS4 Touring, boost gauge goes up to the line right before the red zone, battery hasn't been disconnected in the year we've owned it. Yeah, everything's probably fine, honestly. The studs/exhaust manifold is a pretty common issue and with the age of the car, the o-rings and hoses are pretty good to become suspect. I wouldn't really worry about 19 highway if you were joyriding at all in a mountainous region. Going down a hill, my DFE hops to ~620, up the same hill, drops back to about 420 - and this is after not resetting the SID for 1k miles.
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Jun 21, 2011 02:15
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We're in Pittsburgh, so mountainous applies pretty well even in the city. Beyond the aggressive driving though, there is NON-STOP stop and go traffic no matter where you go, even on the highway, so highway miles are still probably as bad as city miles. On one hand, I miss that our Civic got 30+ MPG no matter how you drove it. On the other... Saab convertible! The radio needs to go though. It stopped playing CDs, even commercial ones. Oh, and the LCD on the air conditioner is slowly going bad. The SID is perfect though, at least.
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Jun 21, 2011 02:21
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Has anyone replaced the hatch in an NG900/OG9-3? Mine is rusting out and I am going to pick up a new one this week. I heard from the parts guy at a local SAAB shop that they are apparently a bitch to replace and I should take it to them. I asked for details, but he didn't know so I don't know if it was an attempt at trying to get a customer or if he was actually trying to give me a ProTip™.
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Jun 21, 2011 02:56
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localized posted:Has anyone replaced the hatch in an NG900/OG9-3? Mine is rusting out and I am going to pick up a new one this week. I heard from the parts guy at a local SAAB shop that they are apparently a bitch to replace and I should take it to them. I asked for details, but he didn't know so I don't know if it was an attempt at trying to get a customer or if he was actually trying to give me a ProTip™. Sounds pretty easy: http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/NG900/index.html?bID=284944 My guess is that the worst part is how frickin heavy it is. I had trouble holding it up while replacing the gas struts.
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Jun 21, 2011 03:54
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kimbo305 posted:My guess is that the worst part is how frickin heavy it is. I had trouble holding it up while replacing the gas struts. I've /almost/ done this on the 9K. As long as you can get someone to help you stabilize it and a couple 2x4s to help prop when changing struts, you're gold. Just don't be a retard and slam your thumb in it like I did.
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Jun 21, 2011 04:22
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Word from beyond: He reset the fuel economy meter when he left, drove 15 miles to work, it's displaying 27.xMPG right now as he managed to miss the stop and go traffic. Let's see how long before he gets it down to 17 again.
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Jun 21, 2011 05:03
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Faerunner posted:Word from beyond: He reset the fuel economy meter when he left, drove 15 miles to work, it's displaying 27.xMPG right now as he managed to miss the stop and go traffic. Just FYI, it will do that. I'm sure it's a programming error but until you get over 500 miles distance, it hops around like a crackwhore in methville.
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Jun 21, 2011 07:05
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Took the SE out for a little drive+smog, and managed 27.2 average while idling for about 20 minutes while they tried to figure out the posting errors on the terminal. $148.00 to re-register a 2001 9-3 SE. Really now, is an $85 local tax horribly necessary? Edit: Holy crap. Estimated new-tax on a 2008 9-5 non-Aero is $500. Per year. 
Viggen fucked around with this message at 21:19 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 20:14
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Faerunner posted:The radio needs to go though. It stopped playing CDs, even commercial ones. Oh, and the LCD on the air conditioner is slowly going bad. The SID is perfect though, at least. Here's a factory stereo w/ the speakers for $75 out of Sacramento. Make sure it's been unmarried, if you want it.
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Jun 21, 2011 21:39
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