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Fangs404 posted:Just a quick question: what do you guys pay to have a tire installed on your bike? I bought a new front tire online, and the place near me quoted me $60 (the wheel is on the bike, so that includes them taking the wheel off, installing the tire, and putting it back on). My usual rates are 80 if you bought the tire elsewhere, 40 if you bought it with through the shop, but I usually negotiate down to 40 with tires I bought elsewhere somehow.
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Jun 13, 2011 22:42
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Last time I had tires mounted, I took the wheels off the bike and it cost me $60 for the pair, stems and envirohippie fees included.
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Jun 13, 2011 22:51
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For me it's always been $40 for outside tire, $30 if store bought and the wheel has to be off the bike. Plus tax and tire disposal fee. Had CycleGear pinch a tube putting a tire/tube on, which was a pain in the rear end. Had to take the wheel back off, do another hour of driving total, and have a sub-par tube used in replacement. Takes them like half an hour for a regular tire, even. Those guys seem to have no idea what they're doing. hayden. fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jun 13, 2011 |
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Jun 13, 2011 22:58
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Wow, the local mechanic in DC quoted me $90 per tire if I brought the tires along with me (wheels still attached to the bike). Good thing I decided to hold off for a bit, going to shop around for something cheaper now. Anyone have any suggestions for the Washington, DC area?
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Jun 13, 2011 22:59
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Someone will do it cheap on craigslist if you want to deal with those people.
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Jun 13, 2011 23:00
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I have a friend who takes his CBR wheels into Walmart to get internet-bought tires mounted for like $15 each. That's cheap but I don't know if I'm keen on trusting Walmart with my life.
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Jun 13, 2011 23:01
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clutchpuck posted:I have a friend who takes his CBR wheels into Walmart to get internet-bought tires mounted for like $15 each. That's cheap but I don't know if I'm keen on trusting Walmart with my life. I didn't even know Walmart did this. Do you -really- need to balance motorcycle tires or can you lever new ones on and ride them just fine?
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Jun 13, 2011 23:23
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BlackMK4 posted:I didn't even know Walmart did this. I think just like car tires, they'd wear unevenly if you didn't balance it. I'd think it could even be dangerous at high speeds. Thanks for the answers. $60 seems reasonable.
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Jun 13, 2011 23:31
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BlackMK4 posted:I didn't even know Walmart did this. I've heard a few people say that tires now are built pretty well so even if you don't balance it's not a dealbreaker. My local shop balances but it's easy enough for them that it's not worth skipping 2 minutes to do it. I believe it's an hour of labor (60 bucks) for them to mount both tires on the bike. 15 a tire if you bring it in off the bike.
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Jun 14, 2011 00:10
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Agrias120 posted:Wow, the local mechanic in DC quoted me $90 per tire if I brought the tires along with me (wheels still attached to the bike). Good thing I decided to hold off for a bit, going to shop around for something cheaper now.
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Jun 14, 2011 00:28
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BlackMK4 posted:I didn't even know Walmart did this. I always forget to balance them. Line up the marking with the valve stem, they've worked fine on every bike I've ever ridden, from my sumos to my racebikes. 
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Jun 14, 2011 00:51
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Good enough for me 
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Jun 14, 2011 01:33
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Does anyone have any experience with these Suburban Machinery handlebars? I like the lower profile look of them, but I'm hesitant to buy them. I'm basically hoping that the clutch level will fit onto them at a different angle, because on the stock bars I feel like I'm really reaching with my fingers to even wrap around the clutch lever which, naturally, isn't comfortable at all for prolonged periods of time. Maybe I was just spoiled by the ergonomics of my CB450, though.bigredcat posted:Lemmie know what you figure out. I'm in Alexandria, so would be good to know for future reference. I've heard good things about The Motorcycle Factory down in Woodbridge, but I don't know about their pricing just yet. Agrias120 fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 15, 2011 |
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Jun 15, 2011 18:38
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Agrias120 posted:Wow, the local mechanic in DC quoted me $90 per tire if I brought the tires along with me (wheels still attached to the bike). Good thing I decided to hold off for a bit, going to shop around for something cheaper now. Lemmie know what you figure out. I'm in Alexandria, so would be good to know for future reference.
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Jun 15, 2011 18:50
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Got my Hammergrips put on today! 
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Jun 16, 2011 00:42
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Agrias120 posted:I've heard good things about The Motorcycle Factory down in Woodbridge, but I don't know about their pricing just yet. BigRedCat posted:Lemmie know what you figure out. I'm in Alexandria, so would be good to know for future reference. 
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Jun 16, 2011 01:25
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Endless Mike posted:Why aren't we going riding? I was waiting on my invitation to arrive. If someone wants to organize a DC goon ride I'd be down.
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Jun 16, 2011 19:53
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I'm out of town until the 26th, but if we don't all go get into some shenanigoons the weekend after that I'm going to be so mad. You guys can all laugh at my ugly SV, it'll be fun! EDIT: BigRedCat, what's your e-mail? I'm going to try and organize an outing for, at the very least, you, EndlessMike and I. Agrias120 fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jun 17, 2011 |
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Jun 16, 2011 20:07
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King Nothing posted:Tried that, it might have taken off a tiny bit but after scrubbing for 20 minutes I gave up. Guess I'll give a claybar a try next. Finally got around to using a (zaino) claybar, these things are magic. Can't tell the stickers were there at all anymore. They also look and feel exactly like silly putty so maybe try that first and spend 1/10 the cost.  edit: looks like one of the push pins holding my lower fairings together came out. Those things are a pain in the rear end to work with anyway, is there any reason I shouldn't replace it with a screw and nut? King Nothing fucked around with this message at 18:34 on Jun 18, 2011 |
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Jun 18, 2011 18:06
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I'm trying to decide between two SV650's and was hoping to find some input from you guys. The first is a 2003 Naked with 8,000 miles. The current owner has a bad back and cannot ride. I could probably get it for $2,600-$2,800. It has some cosmetic damage but is mechanically sound. Frame rash is from it falling against the wall of a trailer while being transported and rubbing. Scratch on the exhaust, and 2 small scratches on the passenger seat cover. https://picasaweb.google.com/j.morris.moore/Suzuki?authkey=Gv1sRgCO7GmaK-zOTQGQ&feat=email The second is a 2008 SF with just under 4,000 miles. Cosmetically perfect and does not seem to have any mechanical issues, although lately he's been storing it uncovered. The seller is asking $4,000 for it. http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=141098 Right now I am leaning towards the 2003 due to the price and the naked bike wont make me so nervous about tearing up some plastic and ruining the value of it. Roy G. Bivouac fucked around with this message at 16:50 on Jun 19, 2011 |
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Jun 19, 2011 16:16
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Roy G. Bivouac posted:I'm trying to decide between two SV650's and was hoping to find some input from you guys. I was thinking about flying up to Boulder to buy that SF before I found one locally for the same price, it looks like a good deal. Only thing I didn't like about it is it still has the stock exhaust and who wants that. Naked vs. S will have a slightly different seating position so keep that in mind, and the 2003s are slightly different from the 05+ in terms of buying some aftermarket parts, but it already has an exhaust which is the major part that's different for 03-04. You can probably talk the Boulder guy down a bit more, he's been trying to sell that bike for a while.
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Jun 19, 2011 16:44
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Too make matters worse (or better) there's now a 2006 650s in town asked at $3,500
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Jun 19, 2011 16:49
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I'd go for the N model for a better street riding position. Plus it's cheaper. Minor damage is ok, try and bargain him down a bit more.
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Jun 19, 2011 16:53
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I went out to start my bike today, and it's not starting ('01 SV650S). I experienced something identical last month, and I replaced the battery which fixed the problem (the battery that was in there was really old). Now it's doing the same thing it was doing before I replaced the battery - electrical stuff turns on (lights, etc.), and it tries to turn over, but it just can't. I'm guessing the R/R is dead. Does this sound about right? I read that to test it, you need to turn on the bike and rev it to 5000rpm, but I obviously can't turn on my bike. It looks like http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/products/563641-suzuki-32800-24b11-hard-parts-rectifier-assy?comment=%3B+MODEL+X%2FY%2FK1 is the part I'd need, but gently caress that's expensive. http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/catalog/1999-2001-Suzuki-SV650-SV-650-Regulator-Rectifier has the same one that is $60 cheaper. What do you guys think I should do? [edit] Man, svrider is loving amazing. So apparently there's actually a design flaw in the design of the first gen SVs with regards to the R/R. It's pretty much guaranteed that it'll fail due to the fact that the wires they used are too small gauge. A lot of guys end up completely replacing the R/R and wiring with a CBR600RR R/R which is higher quality. A guy on svrider actually has all the parts and will do a bang-up job on the wiring for users. The new one more or less ends up looking like this:  And it's pretty much plug-n-play. Pretty sure I'm gonna buy a new one through him. He actually has a spare R/R lying around, so I could probably get the replacement by the end of this week. And I'm actually gonna try jumping the battery tomorrow to see how it responds, and I'll multimeter some poo poo to see how everything looks. Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 00:05
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The same thing happened to my '01 S. I replaced the R/R using an ebayed FH008 (from a CBR600RR) and an FH008 kit from Eastern Beaver. Everything works now, and I've been commuting on it nearly every day this season. D'Ecosse on svrider (assuming he's "the guy") actually shipped me some terminals free of charge after I hosed up soldering the ones I got from Eastern Beaver. His kit looks much easier than the one I used, although you won't get to inhale quite so much lead solder smoke. Also the plug for the stator wires doesn't appear to be weather-sealed, although I don't know how important that really is. I the kit I used included a Metripack 280:  Bear in mind that I'm astonishingly unqualified to give advice on electrical work, although so far my bike runs and my house hasn't burnt down.
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Jun 20, 2011 04:43
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Roy G. Bivouac posted:I'm trying to decide between two SV650's and was hoping to find some input from you guys. I ended up getting the 2003 for $2,500 with some extras! MSF is next week, and then a long cautious learning period on my new biek.
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Jun 20, 2011 04:53
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You can get the 2003 SV650 for less. After I found a gorgeous K3 SV w/ 9k miles with a slightly dented tank, I got it for $2,300. Use the fairings to negotiate your way down.
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Jun 20, 2011 04:58
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Loucks posted:The same thing happened to my '01 S. I replaced the R/R using an ebayed FH008 (from a CBR600RR) and an FH008 kit from Eastern Beaver. Everything works now, and I've been commuting on it nearly every day this season. I'm really happy to hear this. And yeah, he's "the guy". I just went out and tried to jump the battery, but when I whipped out the multimeter, I discovered that the voltage across the battery once the ignition is on is 10V and drops rapidly. Pretty sure the battery is shot, too. Luckily, it still has a warranty thanks to Batteries Plus. I'll probably go ahead and replace the R/R and get that new battery, and hopefully that'll solve my woes. I just wanna go ride!
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Jun 20, 2011 04:58
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So after months of my bike not starting, I finally tried jumping the solenoid using the screwdriver/arc welder technique. I touched by screws together at the same time with some pliers with insulated handles. Wow, the starter now fires! The button the handlebar is still non-functional. Does this mean my problem is the solenoid or the connection to the solenoid from the handlebars?
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Jun 20, 2011 14:32
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Captain Apollo posted:So after months of my bike not starting, I finally tried jumping the solenoid using the screwdriver/arc welder technique. Either or/both. Check that the wiring/plug isn't damaged, but it's likely it's the starter solenoid, for some reason they like to go on SVs after they sit.
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Jun 20, 2011 19:25
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Going to order a new one today. I guess I really should go to Harbor Freight and just get a volt meter to test the connections or something right? I think I'm going to start a thread of my terrible attempts at repairing my sv. I'm taking it apart to really clean it up. Last time I had to take it apart and put it back together, it was outside in a dorm parking lot. NOw that I have a agarage maybe I can do it a little better
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Jun 21, 2011 14:49
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I got a $10 multimeter off Amazon and it's been a great investment edit: http://www.amazon.com/Palm-Size-Handheld-Digital-Multimeter-DT830B/dp/B00066ZZO4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308666750&sr=8-1 only $6.50 now
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Jun 21, 2011 15:32
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Veritas posted:can ninja 650r's play too? Hope so! Just bought one of them. It's a 2008 too, just like this post 
naem fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 18:39
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hayden. posted:I got a $10 multimeter off Amazon and it's been a great investment
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Jun 22, 2011 00:48
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I just ordered that one, thanks! how the gently caress do I use it :[
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Jun 22, 2011 01:29
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I have only a very simple understanding of how to use it. There's two main sections that I use, the top left for stuff powered on batteries (cars, bikes, etc) and the top right for stuff like wall outlets. I read it was important to note use the dial wrong because you could fry the whole thing. You want to use the number the you KNOW will be higher than what you're checking, so since bikes use 12 volts batteries you want to set the dial to 20 in the top left. Black stick to the ground, red stick to the wire. There's also the continuity tester on the bottom right, where you place one stick on either side of a wire and it tells you if the sticks connect. If an electrician reads this they'll probably explode in anger. Also, I touch the wire I'm testing all the time and sometimes wonder if I'm one step away from killing myself while doing so. I figure it's only 12 volts.
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Jun 22, 2011 02:24
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hayden. posted:Also, I touch the wire I'm testing all the time and sometimes wonder if I'm one step away from killing myself while doing so. I figure it's only 12 volts. It's not the voltage that'll kill you coming off a battery; it's the amperage. Here's a picture showing how to do it:  The 2 cables that come with the multimeter will be plugged into the diamond spots. You'll turn the dial to the hexagon. Then just touch the black cable to the negative terminal of the battery and the red cable to the positive terminal.
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Jun 22, 2011 02:45
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Okay but I know my battery works. What would be the way to test a 01 sv650s relay?
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Jun 22, 2011 03:17
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Black probe to ground, touch the red probe to the wire you want to test. edit: actually, you should probably not listen to anything I say. hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jun 22, 2011 |
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Jun 22, 2011 03:28
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For the switch, check the continuity across it in both positions. Set it to 200 ohms (straight down, basically), and put a probe on either terminal. It should read 0 (or, well, anything, really) in the on position, and just have a "1. " in the off position (maybe reverse - I swear I've heard of bikes that do it opposite). I can't really help with the solenoid. That is how it would work in my head, but I honestly don't have any idea if that's right.
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Jun 22, 2011 03:30
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