|
Rontalvos posted:I'm in the central valley but will be moving to LA in august to go to school, and I'm in LA once a month or so, next time I'm down there I will definitely come in.
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 05:57
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 22:58 |
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:Is the GC in addition to the time attack car? Any reason you're going with the GC other than its incredible light weight (1993 1.8L Impreza with crank windows = ~2600lb)? I was under the impression that the stock body was less rigid than the GD. yes, in addition. This will be the new one. Cage helps with the stiffness. You want to go fast in time attack, you need a lot of power, a lot of downforce, and the least amount of weight possible. Good chassis setup helps too so some JRZs are on the way.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 06:18
|
|
|
nm posted:You will be shocked how much cheaper work is down there. all those loving kids working out of their garage for $40 an hour.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 06:19
|
|
|
jamal posted:all those loving kids working out of their garage for $40 an hour.
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 06:25
|
|
|
and who needs a business license or insurance or ase certification anyway?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 06:55
|
|
|
jamal posted:and who needs a business license or insurance or ase certification anyway? What are you, some sort of commie? Invisible hand!
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 15:58
|
|
|
jamal - what is entailed in switching the GC to 5x114.3? Though, I assume you guys are using the trans and motor from an STI so the axles aren't different. Swapping a stock drivetrain to 5x114.3 would be much harder I imagine?
|
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 20:50
|
|
|
yeah this already had 5x100 sti axles and uprights and an R180 which makes it a little easier, but there's still a lot involved. The front struts are wider where they mount to the uprights, so we had to change the suspension (JRZ double adjustable RS-pros on order), and then the front uprights/bearings/hubs, and I also had to get some spacers for the front abs tone rings because the sensors are in a slightly different place. For the rear, since it already has sti uprights and axles the swap is simple. All we have to do is pull out the 04 hubs and put in 05-07 hubs since the upright and bearing is the same from 04-07. Then of course rotors and wheels also need to change and we got some sti aluminum front control arms and whiteline adjustable rear lateral links because the car had stock RS ones on it for some reason. If you don't already have the R180 and sti rear uprights is more of a pain the rear end because the parking brake, caliper mounting, and axle spline count are all different. So you pretty much have to swap on the whole rear end to do it. However, if you just want the kick rear end bolt in front wheel bearings, 6-gun racing machines and re-drills the uprights and hubs to work on a 5x100 car. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jun 15, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 14, 2011 23:26
|
|
|
I'm looking at a 2005 Outback 2.5XT 5-speed with 83200 miles on it. I'll be using it as a daily driver for a 35-40 mile round trip commute to work, with an eye towards road trips and camping/beach activities. What kind of maintenance should I expect to have in the next 25k miles? I'm thinking timing belt and clutch mostly, but coming from a 99 M3, I have no idea what to expect in terms of pricing at a dealership. Thoughts? Or should I run away quickly?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2011 23:05
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:You might be thinking of the new Legacy's 6-speed box, which is not only fragile but features the dreaded cable shift linkage. In what ways is it fragile, or is it just because the new one is ugly?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2011 23:37
|
|
|
Along the lines of the other poster's odd-noise-in-neutral issue, my manual '05 LGT has developed a very intermittent grinding/whining noise on startup. Clutch in, start the car, clutch out, no noise. Idle regulates down and the noise starts as a bit of a metal-on-metal noise and gets progressively louder. Even a tiny poke at the clutch pedal will stop the noise. Doesn't seem to happen on the road. It doesn't seem to happen all the time on starts either, just occasional "cold" starts after it has been sitting for >1 hr. No other funny business with the car shifting or clutch fully disengaging or anything. Does this sound like a symptom of a failed/failing throwout bearing? Clutch slave cyl? Normal part of Subaru ownership?
|
|
#
?
Jun 15, 2011 23:59
|
|
|
multiprotocol posted:I'm looking at a 2005 Outback 2.5XT 5-speed with 83200 miles on it. I'll be using it as a daily driver for a 35-40 mile round trip commute to work, with an eye towards road trips and camping/beach activities. What kind of maintenance should I expect to have in the next 25k miles? I'm thinking timing belt and clutch mostly, but coming from a 99 M3, I have no idea what to expect in terms of pricing at a dealership. Thoughts? Or should I run away quickly? Don't service a subaru at a dealer. hallebarrysoetoro posted:In what ways is it fragile, or is it just because the new one is ugly?
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 01:03
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:
Throwout bearing. very common on subarus with push type clutches. I've been through three and last time put in a $100 TSK sleeve kit. Fucker still squeaks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 01:22
|
|
|
jamal posted:Throwout bearing. very common on subarus with push type clutches. So, one of those brand-specific weak points well-known amongst independent mechanics and brand enthusiasts but which is mysteriously never addressed by the brand engineers? Awesome. You bought the Sumo TSK? I think this would be the appropriate one for my car: http://www.sumoparts.com/transmissionsleevekittskreplaces30502aa051-1-1-1.aspx Seems to be a relatively thoroughly-engineered part (it looks like they took the time to understand the root cause of the problem), I'd guess that a clutch/pressure plate replacement at the same time is advisable? What's the ballpark labor cost for those, and is there anything else advisable to do at the same time?
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 01:50
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:is there anything else advisable to do at the same time? That could be an expensive question 
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 02:11
|
|
|
Sockington posted:That could be an expensive question Well, I figure as long as I'm staying away from suspension stuff I won't spend any *real* money, though I guess with Subarus there's also the whole turbo thing. The car is bone stock aside from the wheels/tires on it, and I guess aside from putting an LSD into the front diff, I can't imagine anything else I would want to do with the transmission out, so it was an honest question. Here's the car in question, pic has been up here before: 
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 07:26
|
|
|
Jamal, ever find that stock bumper reinforcement?
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 11:32
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:I guess aside from putting an LSD into the front diff, I can't imagine anything else I would want to do with the transmission out I have a 1-ways Cusco up front on my LGT wagon. It is awesome.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 18:32
|
|
|
Sockington posted:Jamal, ever find that stock bumper reinforcement? no, it seems they all got thrown out in the move. There's always this one: http://oswaldperformance.com/IMPREZAFRONTBUMPERBEAM.aspx The perrin beam they use with the FMIC kits is $165. jamal fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jun 17, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 18:56
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Well, I figure as long as I'm staying away from suspension stuff I won't spend any *real* money, though I guess with Subarus there's also the whole turbo thing. The car is bone stock aside from the wheels/tires on it, and I guess aside from putting an LSD into the front diff, I can't imagine anything else I would want to do with the transmission out, so it was an honest question. yeah unless you want to pull the transmission apart I would just go with a new clutch if it's needed. How many miles? Labor to do it all should be around $400. As for the noisy bearing, I'm thinking about rigging up some sort of a spring to keep the fork and TOB in contact with the pressure plate. it's what subaru does on the pull type clutches and just a tiny amount of pressure against it stops the noise.
|
|
#
?
Jun 16, 2011 19:00
|
|
|
Annnnd..... there's another 145 bucks blown on a non successful attempt to fix the 06 WRX. I really cant cope with this crap anymore, I am sooooo close to burning the fuckign thing
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 10:41
|
|
|
How much of a concern is 93k miles on this car? http://newyork.craigslist.org/mnh/ctd/2444078263.html My girlfriend's looking for a new ride and she loves Legacy GT's. She loves the one I linked but said, "too many miles". It's visually pristine minus the mysteriously missing shift-knob. Are there big scary expensive repairs coming up at that mileage? Because I really want her to get this thing. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 15:32
|
|
|
Wamsutta posted:How much of a concern is 93k miles on this car? You should just assume that any Subaru at 100,000 miles needs Head Gaskets and a timing belt. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 15:59
|
|
|
I don't know if anyone would know the answer to this question or not, but how much would it cost to replace a roof panel on a '09 Legacy? A local dealership is doing an as-is hail sale and has a special edition there with 18,000 miles for 16k and I am intrigued enough to figure out if it is worth the hassle or not. It is a 5-speed, which for some reason are hard to find used in my area. I looked at it earlier this week and the hood and rear only have a couple small dents but the roof is pretty dinged up.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 16:16
|
|
|
16 seems like too much to me, after the repair you'd be getting close to the cost of a new one (19-20k?)
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 16:50
|
|
|
Yeah, I had some extensive hail damage repaired on my 2002 WRX when it was new and it came out to around $3,750 and spent a week in the body shop to boot. So, between repair cost and diminished value, I would say that $14.5k would be a good price for that car, not $16k.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 17:18
|
|
|
Wamsutta posted:How much of a concern is 93k miles on this car? Just get the usual compression/leakdown tests done. That'll give you an idea as to the health of the motor. Other than that be sure to go over it like you would anything else. If you don't mind the automatic, that is a fantastically clean *looking* car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 17:59
|
|
|
Amandyke posted:Just get the usual compression/leakdown tests done. That'll give you an idea as to the health of the motor. Other than that be sure to go over it like you would anything else. If you don't mind the automatic, that is a fantastically clean *looking* car. I'd want a manual, but my gf wouldn't. Thanks for the words folks. I'll try and convince her that 93k isn't too old (  ) of a car to buy, and if she warms up to it I'll get the tests done.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 18:02
|
|
|
Make sure that whoever inspects it checks the banjo bolt for the turbo oil feed; it's a common problem on that generation of turbo Legacy and might give you leverage to push back on the price if it has to get done.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 18:03
|
|
|
Has anyone here put mudflaps on their Impreza? If so, would you say it was difficult at all?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 18:29
|
|
|
bull3964 posted:Yeah, I had some extensive hail damage repaired on my 2002 WRX when it was new and it came out to around $3,750 and spent a week in the body shop to boot. Great, thanks. The guy said they were firm on the price, which I don't know is true or not but I don't feel like haggling so gently caress him. I might be better off waiting for the new Imprezas anyways.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 18:38
|
|
|
105k service is a timing belt and water pump and the like and will usually be around $1000.Yakattak posted:Has anyone here put mudflaps on their Impreza? If so, would you say it was difficult at all? the rallyarmor ones come with all the hardware and brackets and stuff to make it an easy bolt on deal.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 19:00
|
|
|
Wow, just had HonkNRalph bring his IR 3/8" Impact over and we still can't budge these damned cam sprocket bolts. I'd use my 1/2" 450 ft/lb'er but it won't clear the condenser. Was really starting to think about ripping out the A/C yesterday just to get clearance for the 1/2" impact. These bolts are driving me nuts. I wish I'd taken pictures of some of the methods we've tried. One involved cutting up the timing belt, folding one end over, riveting it, and using it in my strap wrench. I really thought that one would work, but the timing belt kept ripping where we'd folded it over. For those keeping score at home this is a 1997 Legacy Outback which I'm doing timing belt/seals/everything on so it'll pass inspection. Been eyeing up various shitbuckets on Craigslist as these bolts have continued to frustrate me, but man, this is MY shitbucket, and it has the advantage over the Craigslist ones in that I have an intimate knowledge of its shittiness. I'm planning on sticking this out until I either break all these lovely plastic sprockets or the car becomes more hornets nest and rust than steel. Yellow jackets are loving all of this car's crevices.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 19:31
|
|
|
Yakattak posted:Has anyone here put mudflaps on their Impreza? If so, would you say it was difficult at all? Make sure you get the second generation of Rally Armor flaps if you are getting RA flaps; the first generation is a little wider and can interfere with huge-rear end tires when you turn the car lock to lock. I can't tell from your post history what kind of WRX you picked up, so if it's a GE/GH/GR or GD sedan feel free to ignore everything I've said.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 19:51
|
|
|
 Isn't this how most folks to it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 19:51
|
|
|
Jared592 posted:Wow, just had HonkNRalph bring his IR 3/8" Impact over and we still can't budge these damned cam sprocket bolts. I'd use my 1/2" 450 ft/lb'er but it won't clear the condenser. Was really starting to think about ripping out the A/C yesterday just to get clearance for the 1/2" impact. These bolts are driving me nuts. yeah that won't get them. I use a 3' bar and really have to lean on it. I cut the timing belt, make a loop in it, drill a hole, and hold it together using a bolt and washers so that it slips over the crank pulley. Leave enough belt so you can wrap it around two cam pulleys and then back under itself. Then as you try to loosen the pulley it will tighten the belt's grip. jamal fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jun 17, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 21:26
|
|
|
After my last HPDE in my STI (2010, Stage 2 if it matters) I found that near the end of 20minute sessions my brakes were going to the floor which was really uncomfortable on track. My upgrade list to work around this looks like this: * Motul RBF660 * Stainless Lines * Pads(Ferodo 2500 or HP+) I know the fluid and lines will make a difference, but I'm wondering what pad to go to. So, I'm eyeballing the Ferodo 2500's, or the Hawk HP+ (preference as they're the cheaper of the two). I would really prefer to have pads that will be decent on the street and that won't require me to switch them out for track days. Will this setup hold up to 4-5 20 minute sessions on track with no fade? Will the HP+ be good for this? They're my preference as they're significantly less expensive. Any suggestion of other pads to try out?
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 21:30
|
|
|
allonblack posted:I know the fluid and lines will make a difference, but I'm wondering what pad to go to. So, I'm eyeballing the Ferodo 2500's, or the Hawk HP+ (preference as they're the cheaper of the two). I would really prefer to have pads that will be decent on the street and that won't require me to switch them out for track days. If I may, I'd highly recommend just swapping pads and fluid to start. The lines won't really make much of a difference. By far the biggest bang for your buck will be quality fluid, followed by a decent track pad. If you are putting on track wheels, consider taking the extra 10 min to swap out some track pads at the same time. Compromise pads usually have really metallic, rotor-chewing properties to make them work on the street with a higher-temp carbon compound for fade-resistance on the track. This means they're dusty, noisy, and less effective on the street, while on the track they are less effective than a true "won't work till its warm" track pad. E: this is speaking from experience as someone who daily drove a track car with HP+s -- they do the job but they're not ideal.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 21:51
|
|
|
daslog posted:
Going to try to do what Jamal's talking about now. Don't quite have it clear in my head but we'll see what I can come up with.
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 23:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 22:58 |
|
|
allonblack posted:After my last HPDE in my STI (2010, Stage 2 if it matters) I found that near the end of 20minute sessions my brakes were going to the floor which was really uncomfortable on track. I've done a significant amount of reading that suggests cooling is a huge crutch on our platform. There are a couple different options for directing airflow to the rotors, rally sport direct has some listings. I'm also unaware as to the actual effectiveness, but grimspeed has a master cylinder brace that could assist with some pedal feedback as there exist claims of firewall flex sans the brace. thealphabetsez fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Jun 17, 2011 |
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2011 23:08
|
|