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Opensourcepirate posted:poo poo. Started my 98 Jetta TDI up today and a light in the shape of a thermometer was blinking on the dash. Shut her down and looked under the hood and the coolant was well below the minimum. (To be clear, I didn't overheat, the car was just warning me of low fluid). You can just top it off with some distilled water.
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# ? Jun 5, 2011 20:33 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 03:26 |
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Whats the best place to find a replacement passenger side mirror for a '99 A4? Ebay doesn't have poo poo.
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# ? Jun 5, 2011 21:29 |
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PUNCHITCHEWIE posted:If anyone has a MK6 Golf/GTI/Jetta and you have excessive wind noise coming from the doors at high speed you can throw some electrical tape on the door latches to get rid of it. Worked great for me: I swear all the VW touched cars have had this problem since 2009
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# ? Jun 5, 2011 22:06 |
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Tetraptous posted:The engine coolant temperature sensor on my 98 V6 Passat has gone bad. I've picked up a replacement (blue type) sensor, and have attempted to replace it, but my problem is that I can't for the life of me get the old one out. I've removed the spring clip that retains it, and even went as far as removing the intake pipe so that I could get some vice grips in there, but no luck getting it to budge. I assume that after 13 years, the original o-ring has turned to glue and it holding it in there. And advice on bow to get it out without breaking anything? When they're really stuck in there I soak the sensor down with PB blaster or whatever penetrant I have, take the car for a spin, remove the spring clip and twist the sensor in it's socket. If that fails, I leave the spring clip off and pressurize the coolant jug to about 1.5 bar - that's usually enough to pop the sensor out. Just make sure you pull straight up on the sensor and you'll be fine.
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# ? Jun 6, 2011 23:44 |
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Thanks. I was temped to try that on the weekend, but all of the online accounts made it sound like these things always just slide right out and I didn't want to mess anything up, so I just buttoned it up until I could do more research. Up until today, I'd never found it impossible to start so long as the car was just turned off or was dead cold. However, this afternoon my poor wife got stuck after work, as it was exceptionally hot outside and the car just wouldn't start cold with the faulty temperature reading. Hopefully, I will be forgiven!
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# ? Jun 7, 2011 00:51 |
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Dr. Jackal posted:I swear all the VW touched cars have had this problem since 2009 There's also a TSB/Bulletin for wind noise from the rear edges of the front door windows too - we just got the kits for the TSB today.
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# ? Jun 7, 2011 23:54 |
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my1999gsr posted:There's also a TSB/Bulletin for wind noise from the rear edges of the front door windows too - we just got the kits for the TSB today. any of those apply to 2 Door Golf TDIs?
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 01:54 |
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Hey my199gsr, hoping you can answer this one for me.. 2011 GTI with KESSY - when I open the door and get in (before starting the car) I hear a whirrr-click noise coming from the steering column area and a yellow steering wheel icon lights up on the dashboard for a second or so. I also get the same noise as I open the door to exit the car. Is this normal or something to be concerned about? The car starts fine, but the yellow wheel icon isn't really explained in the manual, just says it's a steering lock thing when it flashes. Is it KESSY-related?
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 21:47 |
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Scabrous Teat posted:Hey my199gsr, hoping you can answer this one for me.. The whirring is just the fuel pump priming the system. Not sure about the light.
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 22:01 |
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That's definitely not a fuel pump, unless fuel pumps recently got fairly loud and were placed somewhere in front of the driver. edit: although I've been wrong about things like a million times before.
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 22:04 |
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Scabrous Teat posted:That's definitely not a fuel pump, unless fuel pumps recently got fairly loud and were placed somewhere in front of the driver. Mine makes that sound every time I open the driver's door. It only does this when the car hasn't been driven recently.
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 22:22 |
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Scabrous Teat posted:Hey my199gsr, hoping you can answer this one for me.. Not a big deal at all - your car is using the Kessy system to unlock or lock the steering column when it sees the key or the vehicle is turned off. Since you have no mechanical key to lock or unlock the steering column your car uses Kessy to activate/deactivate the ESCL (Electronic Steering Column Lock).
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 22:59 |
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Dr. Jackal posted:any of those apply to 2 Door Golf TDIs? I've only seen it for the Jettas but the campaign just started yesterday so it's hard to say for sure.
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 23:00 |
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veedubfreak posted:Mine makes that sound every time I open the driver's door. It only does this when the car hasn't been driven recently. Oh I know which sound you mean, but this one's way louder and.. just different somehow, more mechanical.
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 23:11 |
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my1999gsr posted:Not a big deal at all - your car is using the Kessy system to unlock or lock the steering column when it sees the key or the vehicle is turned off. Since you have no mechanical key to lock or unlock the steering column your car uses Kessy to activate/deactivate the ESCL (Electronic Steering Column Lock). What about the yellow steering wheel icon - does that just turn on whenever steering wheel column is locked or unlocked? I'm just paranoid about warning lights
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# ? Jun 8, 2011 23:13 |
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Honeymoon is over for the 1998 A4 2.8 Quattro I bought earlier this year. Both outer CV boots split, no problem. I'm not pleased, but I can fix that. Power steering is leaking out somewhere, but after cleaning the wet spots at the bottom of the reservoir and the front-most fluid line, they remain dry and fluid keeps disappearing. Any likely common causes? I'd rather not dismantle half the system to find the leak. My fuel gauge completely stopped working. I had about a quarter tank, then next start up the needle was showing absolutely empty. I rocked the car and drove over some bumps, and then filled the tank to full to see if the float was simply sticking but no luck. Is there a likely cause for this? Is replacing the sending unit/sensor very difficult? Where should I start for diag?
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# ? Jun 9, 2011 03:54 |
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Scabrous Teat posted:What about the yellow steering wheel icon - does that just turn on whenever steering wheel column is locked or unlocked? I'm just paranoid about warning lights I think it's just indicating that the steering lock is activated or deactivated. I've got a 2011 GTI with KESSY and I get the exact same thing... Completely normal as far as I know.
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# ? Jun 9, 2011 04:00 |
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Cool, thanks a lot guys!
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# ? Jun 9, 2011 04:03 |
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mr.belowaverage posted:Honeymoon is over for the 1998 A4 2.8 Quattro I bought earlier this year. It's likely a failed sending unit which is attached to the in-tank fuel pump. There's a possibility that the instrument cluster is the problem (in the shop I would do an output test to make sure the fuel gauge is capable of moving). Getting the pump and sending unit out of pretty easy - If you pull up the rear seat bottom (or trunk trim carpet right behind the rear seats) there should be a metal cover that's held in place by 3 small screws. Under the cover is the locking collar for the fuel pump and it can be removed by using a hammer and punch to turn it and allow access to the pump. Be careful removing the pump - the float for the fuel level sensor is a little tricky to get out of the hole the pump fits in. Be sure to note which was the pump was facing so you can re-install it correctly. I'm not sure if you can buy the sending unit by itself or if you have to buy the entire pump. EDIT: You can test the cluster once you have access to the fuel pump - there'll be a 4 wire connector on the pump. Unplug it and bridge the 2 smaller wires with a paper clip - you should see the gas gauge change. my1999gsr fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Jun 9, 2011 |
# ? Jun 9, 2011 12:53 |
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my1999gsr: Is it worth while to change the camshaft and crankshaft seals while doing the timing belt job on a b6 a4 3.0l? Also: In 2005 Audi changed the engine code of the B6 3.0L from AVK to BGN. Do you happen to know if they actually changed any parts on the engine? Did they change anything at all besides the code? RapeWhistle fucked around with this message at 17:45 on Jun 9, 2011 |
# ? Jun 9, 2011 17:33 |
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RapeWhistle posted:my1999gsr: If you're going to put your Audi into service position to do the t-belt it's not a bad idea to do the cam and crank seals while you're there. Those seals aren't usually trouble-makers so I wouldn't say it's vital to do them as a preventative measure but if you've got the proper tools and feel comfortable doing them then there's no harm in it just make sure you know what's involved before you start replacing those seals. I can't tell you for sure if there's any different parts in either V6 because to be honest I can't remember which motor is which but I can tell you that Audi rarely changes anything for no reason so I'm betting there are at least a few differences.
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# ? Jun 10, 2011 00:57 |
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I was at the VW Classic in Irvine, CA today and picked up an old VW 100,000 km St. Christopher badge since my Mk. IV R32 just rolled over 62,000 miles this week. I guess these badges were normally mounted on the dash, but I want to put mine on the grille. There are two ~20mm long, 3mm or 4mm bolts with tiny nuts on the back. Has anyone fabricated any sort of badge mount for a Mk. IV grille? The badge looks like this, with the bolts being somewhere around the bottom of the VW logo and the bottom of St. Christopher's hem. Unfortunately the bolts are inconveniently spaced a little less than the distance between two slats on the grille.
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# ? Jun 13, 2011 01:05 |
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What are the repair costs of an audi s5 like? There are a couple 2010's near me with 16k miles. I'm going to assume out of my pay grade.
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# ? Jun 13, 2011 01:32 |
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You have to keep in mind that the S5 has the 4.2L V8 engine which, while great for performance, will probably ruin you at the pumps.
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# ? Jun 13, 2011 02:02 |
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Christobevii3 posted:What are the repair costs of an audi s5 like? There are a couple 2010's near me with 16k miles. I'm going to assume out of my pay grade. Audi is in the same league as BMW and Mercedes. The parts are expensive, maintenance is expensive, and labor is really expensive. Unless Audi does something similar to the BMW certified pre-owned warranty on repairs and maintenance, it's going to be pricey. I don't know what your pay grade is, but you can have surprise $1000+ repair bills once you get up in miles.
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# ? Jun 13, 2011 13:12 |
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The S5 is gorgeous enough to justify extra maintenance costs.
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# ? Jun 13, 2011 14:04 |
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meatpimp posted:The S5 is gorgeous enough to justify extra maintenance costs. Oh definitely. I just don't want to sugarcoat the costs and lead him into financial ruin.
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# ? Jun 13, 2011 14:38 |
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Christobevii3 posted:What are the repair costs of an audi s5 like? There are a couple 2010's near me with 16k miles. I'm going to assume out of my pay grade. The cost of upkeep for an A5/S5 is pretty much the same as any other German "luxury" marque - higher than a Civic or Camry. Parts can be expensive but the shop labor rates vary on location - our shop is less than $100/hr which is on par with many of the chain shops in our area. The S5 is a really fun car to drive and looks amazing so you have to decide if you're willing to spend some extra cash to get one and keep it. The V8 isn't as bad on fuel as you might expect - if you're not hooning around in it all the time and it sounds badass - much meaner than the supercharged S4 does.
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# ? Jun 14, 2011 12:31 |
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my1999gsr posted:The cost of upkeep for an A5/S5 is pretty much the same as any other German "luxury" marque - higher than a Civic or Camry. Parts can be expensive but the shop labor rates vary on location - our shop is less than $100/hr which is on par with many of the chain shops in our area. The S5 is a really fun car to drive and looks amazing so you have to decide if you're willing to spend some extra cash to get one and keep it. The V8 isn't as bad on fuel as you might expect - if you're not hooning around in it all the time and it sounds badass - much meaner than the supercharged S4 does. Speaking of the exhaust note, have you ever heard of a warranty claim being denied for an aftermarket exhaust? I'm not a fan of the stock S4 exhaust and I want to get an APR exhaust, but I don't want to lose the warranty (or Audicare) over it.
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# ? Jun 14, 2011 15:17 |
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SwashedBuckles posted:Speaking of the exhaust note, have you ever heard of a warranty claim being denied for an aftermarket exhaust? I'm not a fan of the stock S4 exhaust and I want to get an APR exhaust, but I don't want to lose the warranty (or Audicare) over it. It depends on what the claim is for, but if you put an aftermarket exhaust on and a fault elsewhere on the car was traced back to it then the claim would be rejected and you also wouldn't have a warranty on the exhaust system either due to aftermarket parts being fitted (Not 100% sure about the last part but I think that's how it is as my dealer).
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# ? Jun 14, 2011 18:06 |
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SwashedBuckles posted:Speaking of the exhaust note, have you ever heard of a warranty claim being denied for an aftermarket exhaust? I'm not a fan of the stock S4 exhaust and I want to get an APR exhaust, but I don't want to lose the warranty (or Audicare) over it. It's really hard to officially get a warranty denied, but dealerships will sometimes fight it anyway. The Magnuson–Moss act protects you (and your warranty) against competently-installed aftermarket devices. An aftermarket exhaust can void things caused by excess vibration from the louder sound, melted plastics from a poor vent location, etc. Your aftermarket exhaust cannot be used to void drivetrain damage unless the dealership is willing to prove in court that it caused the failure and a stock exhaust would not have.
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# ? Jun 14, 2011 18:20 |
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charismaslover posted:It depends on what the claim is for, but if you put an aftermarket exhaust on and a fault elsewhere on the car was traced back to it then the claim would be rejected and you also wouldn't have a warranty on the exhaust system either due to aftermarket parts being fitted (Not 100% sure about the last part but I think that's how it is as my dealer). The way it's explained to us is that if there's a problem and the causal part is found to be aftermarket then you void your warranty on that system of your car. There's little reason for an aftermarket exhaust to cause any problems unless it's mounted poorly or the cat (if it's aftermarket) is too small to work properly. Generally, if we see an aftermarket piece on your car and you're in for warranty work we have to be very careful - if the diagnostic procedure leads us to an aftermarket part being the cause, we call the customer right away and let them know what's going on and go from there.
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# ? Jun 14, 2011 20:25 |
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Where is the ignition/starter fuse located on the 2002 A6 (2.7T)? I've checked the fuse box inside the driver's side on the dash and the ECU box under the driver's side plenum and came up with nothing. Had a bad connection on the starter and I fixed it but the car still won't crank or anything at all, which leads me to believe a fuse blew somewhere. I tried jumping the solenoid manually and it spun, so that's not the issue. e: Maybe a better question - which relay on the relay carrier is for the starter? I don't think the starter system has a fuse, does it? Neon Machete fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 18, 2011 |
# ? Jun 18, 2011 02:00 |
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Okay, bought a 2011 Audi A5 cabrio about two months ago. In love with the car and will gladly drive upwards of 10 hours a day in it. I do have one problem though, the power-top compartment is supposed to be able to fold up to increase trunk space when the top is up, but I cannot get mine to lock in place anymore. I've tried googling for information on it, but all I find is information on the A4 Cab. It's not the same, as those results mention a lever and a cable and tensioner that doesn't exist on mine. The A5 simplifies it, there's only a metal slat that you push and it locks itself in place, taking the rest of the compartment up with it. I'm thinking the heat and humidity of the south are gumming up the spring-lock mechanism, but I'm not sure. Any ideas?
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# ? Jun 20, 2011 13:34 |
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This is probably kind of far out there, but has anyone else had problems with their AM radio? I have a 2010 GTI with the touchscreen satellite radio (no GPS) and sometimes the AM radio just refuses to work. I get faint static on every band. Satellite and FM both work fine, and usually at some later point in the journey, I switch back to AM and it's working again. I'm pretty sure there's something wrong with the radio itself because of situations where I'm listening to an AM station, turn the car off, start the car again, and all of a sudden that station is gone and replaced by faint static. Unless the government is tracking me and interfering with my AM radio ...
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# ? Jun 20, 2011 15:34 |
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chutwig posted:This is probably kind of far out there, but has anyone else had problems with their AM radio? I have a 2010 GTI with the touchscreen satellite radio (no GPS) and sometimes the AM radio just refuses to work. I get faint static on every band. Satellite and FM both work fine, and usually at some later point in the journey, I switch back to AM and it's working again. I'm pretty sure there's something wrong with the radio itself because of situations where I'm listening to an AM station, turn the car off, start the car again, and all of a sudden that station is gone and replaced by faint static. Unless the government is tracking me and interfering with my AM radio ... Did you get your windows tinted? If so, was it metallic? Metallic tint can jack up reception.
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# ? Jun 20, 2011 15:57 |
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Bovine Delight posted:Did you get your windows tinted? If so, was it metallic? Metallic tint can jack up reception. Nope, no tint. It's pretty random, and I have the shark fin antenna on top of my car.
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# ? Jun 20, 2011 16:03 |
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The shark fin is only used for the GPS and satellite radio AFAIK, the AM and FM stations are picked up from embedded antennas in your windshield and rear window.
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# ? Jun 20, 2011 16:22 |
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I need opinions on a the 2004 Audi A4 1.8T. Reliability and such... there's one for sale through a family member. It's been maintained very well (her dad has a lot of money) and for her graduating law school, they bought her a brand new Q7 Diesel. Yes, I know... ugh. Life must be tough. Regardless, they offered me her A4 with 65,000 miles on it for $9,000 flat. It's a 2004. Thing looks flawless. My concern is reliability, because this thing isn't under warranty anymore obviously and I don't have a ton of money for repairing this thing once a month. Should I just pass or is it worth looking in to? edit: forgot to mention I obviously googled everything, and it appears that 2004 is a better year than 2002 and 2003? I'm looking for real life experience, not just edmunds stuff. If this is to be believed... I may end up in this car http://www.edmunds.com/audi/a4/2004/reliability.html Amy Pole Her fucked around with this message at 07:18 on Jun 22, 2011 |
# ? Jun 22, 2011 07:14 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 03:26 |
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Has anyone had luck with logging boost via the inlet pressure sensor on Torque? I have not found a PID that works. Car in question is a 2000 A4 1.8T.
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# ? Jun 22, 2011 18:43 |