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Wazzu posted:Not sure about the fluff on where your army is placed still, or the fluff on how eldar ranger cloaks work, but I think grey done up like the panels underneath would work most naturally and contrast as a nice natural tone ot the bright eldar colours. I could easily be wrong though. I admit that I don't really have any fluff for the army beyond Generic Craftworld Force; the driving force is mostly the color scheme and visual elements, not any particular background or setting. I picked the basing as a good contrast to the models themselves. Ranger cloaks are supposed to be cameoline, like Scouts/Snipers from other races. Essentially the cloak functions like a chameleon's skin, detecting the surrounding terrain and adjusting its appearance to mimic it. If I was a really good painter it would be a chance to some advanced blending, or showing the transitions in the cloak's 'match' very clearly. Unfortunately that's kind of beyond my skills. I think the grey might be a good idea. It will echo the terrain elements on the bases and contrast well. I'll give it a shot on a sample guy and see how it goes. Thanks!
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Jun 17, 2011 14:47
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You poor saps, drying out your brushes using things. I just squeeze the bristles out with my finger tips.
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Jun 17, 2011 15:09
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MasterSlowPoke posted:My brother turned his into a Tzeentch Daemon Prince, which is a pretty cool transformation. I don't really like any of the greater daemon sculpts. *sorry for owning a lightbox and only using my iphone. My room was blindingly bright yet the pictures still come out murky. Was a miracle the auto-whitebalance did as well as it did. BWARK!  Oh, and I inherited some guy's demons since his gf was on his back, and he had a balrog. For my money they are the one of the best bloodthirsters. I added bloodletter horns and borrowed that axe from the original bloodthirster model, plus some spiky ork shoulder pads as wrist/knee pads and a soulgrinder plate for a shoulder pad. I also made his wings look all grim and dark, other people have done this before and done a better job (Helps me count him as skarbrand since it is up for interpretation if his wings still work  ).  
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Jun 17, 2011 15:11
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will blow your mind.
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Bistromatic posted:Count me in as well. In fact all the really old GW stuff is terrible, ranging from amusingly bad to just plain bad. But a lot of it had personality. The new GD are just plain bad.
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Jun 17, 2011 16:03
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GoodBee posted:I've got some Slaanesh stuff lying around that I don't know what to do with. It's a greater daemon, 10 daemonettes, a unit of noodle riders, a Masque and a fiend. I'm never going to play daemons so they've just been sitting in a box. Maybe a BloodBowl team? Mordheim warband!
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Jun 17, 2011 16:43
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WhiteOutMouse posted:those pictures are awful. use my camera.
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Jun 17, 2011 19:03
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Post 9-11 User posted:You poor saps, drying out your brushes using things. I just squeeze the bristles out with my finger tips. What?! You're never supposed to touch the bristles with your gross oily fingers! Manifest posted:Mordheim warband! Mordheim has Chaos now?! The last time I played was when it first came out. One guy at the shop has been bugging us to play again.
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Jun 17, 2011 19:11
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So, how many of you paint your models on the sprue before you put them together? I am making a lot of WW2 tanks at the minute, and I am finding it a pain to paint the tracks decently when I have put the model together. Is it easier to do everything beforehand whilst everything is still on the sprue? I just feel like it is more of a hassle if I do it that way rather than just doing it when the model is fully made. I dunno, I may try it out on the next one I make this weekend. If any of you have tips on how to do it I would appreciate it!
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Jun 17, 2011 19:27
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Pogue_Mahone posted:So, how many of you paint your models on the sprue before you put them together? I am making a lot of WW2 tanks at the minute, and I am finding it a pain to paint the tracks decently when I have put the model together. Is it easier to do everything beforehand whilst everything is still on the sprue? I just feel like it is more of a hassle if I do it that way rather than just doing it when the model is fully made. I dunno, I may try it out on the next one I make this weekend. If any of you have tips on how to do it I would appreciate it! For me this really depends on the model. If it's obvious that the model will be difficult to paint in full I will paint in pieces, assembling bitz together as whole as I can without covering anything up (like the Hive Tyrant above in which the body is assembled buy the head and arms have been left off for better access). If it's a small model that I'll be doing a ton of and don't care too much about detail behind crevices (i.e. 40 termagants) I'll just paint them fully assembled.
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Jun 17, 2011 19:31
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For WWII stuff, you may as well do some of the broad coloring with spray cans and a little half-assed masking. That will save you more time than painting on the sprew. The point is to get crevices anyway. The innards of tank treads will probably stay black regardless of the look you're going for.
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Jun 17, 2011 21:16
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Captain Invictus posted:Man, those are some serious tits on that bloodthirster. Sure that's not a Keeper of Secrets cosplaying one? It's even got a sorta gimp mask going on there. Does GW(FW?) still make the old-style chainfists? The new ones look like a crappy conversion instead of something to cut man-sized holes in starship doors with. Pierzak fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Jun 17, 2011 |
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Jun 17, 2011 22:23
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Crossposting from the 40K thread because, well, its my collection and I'm proud that its basically all painted  How much warhammer do you guys have? I decided, seeing as now I'm on holiday after University, to find out. It took 2 hours of laying out models and totting up points, but now I have the answer. Behold... The Raven's Repentance Chapter Myrianus IV PDF Children of Terra Grey Knights Strike Force Some Statistics 291 models 11815 points 20 HQ options (led by Chapter Master Anduriel, AKA Lysander) 13 Troops Choices 11 tanks 1 Superheavy Tank 95% painted 5 pots of Mechendrite Red & 4 of Red Gore 2 years Fielded most of it in an apocalypse game once. Slaughter in my favour. Overview: http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/LordTw15ted1991/Army%20Pictures/IMG_1257.jpg Lemans http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/LordTw15ted1991/Army%20Pictures/IMG_1268.jpg Librarians http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/LordTw15ted1991/Army%20Pictures/IMG_1276.jpg Nemesis Dreadknight http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/LordTw15ted1991/Army%20Pictures/IMG_1264.jpg The Stormlord http://i653.photobucket.com/albums/uu254/LordTw15ted1991/Army%20Pictures/IMG_1281.jpg Phew! If anyone is interested in more pictures I can post them! E: Fixed the pics Lord Twisted fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jun 18, 2011 |
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Jun 17, 2011 22:37
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I am interested in those pictures, because they are not found.
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Jun 17, 2011 22:42
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GoodBee posted:What?! You're never supposed to touch the bristles with your gross oily fingers! Mordheim has EVERYTHING. If you do a little googling, you can find a copy of the rules that's been fan-edited to add all the errata, and town crier issues that added rules for all the different races. I had a few printed up for my group and spiral bound at staples.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:04
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Theres no need to be cryptic - post that poo poo. The rules are free on the GW website so there is no :files: issue.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:08
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Pogue_Mahone posted:So, how many of you paint your models on the sprue before you put them together? I am making a lot of WW2 tanks at the minute, and I am finding it a pain to paint the tracks decently when I have put the model together. Is it easier to do everything beforehand whilst everything is still on the sprue? I just feel like it is more of a hassle if I do it that way rather than just doing it when the model is fully made. I dunno, I may try it out on the next one I make this weekend. If any of you have tips on how to do it I would appreciate it! Paint them on the sprue, or in bites before assembling? I take most of my stuff off the sprue, partially assemble it, and then paint it all up. Then I'll finish the assembly completely. This can make it much easier to get into some of those nooks and crevices and so on. Painting on the sprue is just insane. You would still have to cut the pieces off the sprue when you were done, and that would mean having to do tons of touch-up on every piece. It's not worth it.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:11
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Yeah I was wondering about that. I was reading a guide on some WW2 model site that reccomended painting on the sprue, but I just thought that it sounded a bit OTT. I have just finished assembling a Tiger I. I have it in 3 parts (chassis, top of tank and turret) and I have just primed them seperately and will paint them seperately. Its just that in the Tamiya instructions they show you what colour detail pieces and wheels should be, and they reccomend you painting them before making the tracks/adding detail pieces. This means I have to prime approx 30 odd little wheels and paint them before assembly, and that just seems a bit too much effort for me! I might try it out though to see if it adds much to the finished model.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:19
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Miles O'Brian posted:Theres no need to be cryptic - post that poo poo. The rules are free on the GW website so there is no Copyright still applies to stuff that GW posts online. They get to do whatever they want with their copyright, we don't. This only matters so far as GW cares to monitor a forum and file a motion based on something it sees, though, which it isn't doing.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:30
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issue.
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Miles O'Brian posted:Theres no need to be cryptic - post that poo poo. The rules are free on the GW website so there is no :files: issue. I wasn't trying to be cryptic, I just didn't have the link handy. But now I do! http://www.megaupload.com/?d=3n5pr39p Fuckin print that bitch up and enjoy. I'm starting a city tabel to play this on after my lizardmen army.
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Jun 17, 2011 23:53
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Fixed the pic links  Also, what do you guys recommend instead of Green Stuff for modelling with? Sod that stuff price wise.
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Jun 18, 2011 00:26
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Lord Twisted posted:Fixed the pic links Don't buy greenstuff from GW. You can get it online (or from GF9) in giant slabs for dirt cheap.
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Jun 18, 2011 00:29
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Does anyone have advice on painting neat border highlights for the flat panels on the Dark Eldar Raider? As seen here: http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m1420239a_99120112012_DERaider1_873x627.jpg I have a very hard time loading my brush with the right consistency of paint to where it flows out like I want. I've got a nice kolinsky sable brush with a sharp point but I'm missing some crucial skill for paint control.
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Jun 18, 2011 02:47
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Lord Twisted posted:Fixed the pic links Procreate (horrible name) is supposed to be much easier as its a little less elastic and cures a bit harder, but I've never used it before myself. Trollforged for US/Heresy for UK are the places you want to buy greenstuff etc from since they try and keep their stock fresh (keep it in the fridge etc)
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Jun 18, 2011 03:03
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ghetto wormhole posted:Could anyone show me some pictures of Cadians with grey armor and/or give me tips on a color scheme? I want them to at least sort of match my Steel Legion vehicles which will be Adeptus Battlegrey. Adeptus Battlegrey seems a little dark on Cadians so I tried a 50/50 mix of Astronomicon Grey and Badab Black which looks pretty good, but I can't figure out what color to paint the fatigues. My dudes have black armour and grey fatigues if that helps. Pics from when I was motivated to paint:       Armour is Chaos Black with Shadow Grey and Space Wolves Grey highlights. Fatigues are Adeptus Battlegrey washed with Badab Black, then highlighted with Codex and Fortress Grey and washed again.
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Jun 18, 2011 03:13
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I've been really impressed with [url=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmiyEVluEt4]this guy's[url] series on weathering a tank using the FW weathering powders. Do you guys have any experience with them? Do you have a preferred brand? I'd like to get something that results in a mud effect similar to the base of my existing models for my battlewagon. I'm also considering going back to my models and possibly adding some pigmented dirt and mud to their legs. 
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Jun 18, 2011 04:35
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Your orks are the best, you should post them all.
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Jun 18, 2011 09:05
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adamantium|wang posted:My dudes have black armour and grey fatigues if that helps. Pics from when I was motivated to paint: They look great but why didn't you paint the eyes? WHY? WHY?
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Jun 18, 2011 13:35
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Captain Odo doesn't need eyes.
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Jun 18, 2011 13:44
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Ashcans posted:Captain Odo doesn't need eyes.
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Jun 18, 2011 14:35
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Crayvex posted:They look great but why didn't you paint the eyes? WHY? WHY? 1) My brushes were years old at the time 2) They're tabletop quality 3) I've got 101 Guardsmen to paint and if I do one, I'll do all 202 eyes. e: should I buy googly eyes y/n
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Jun 18, 2011 15:00
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Can any one recommend a varnish that can be used with an airbrush? I've been looking at the Vallejo ones but I'm not sure they are meant for airbrushing.
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Jun 18, 2011 15:49
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I use 2 parts Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer and 1 part of their thinner. It goes on very easy and comes out very very matte, awesome stuff all around. Going by the first google result so you can get a look at the bottles, i have no idea about the store itself: http://www.modelcars.com/model-master-flat-clear-lacquer.html http://www.modelcars.com/model-master-thinner.html
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Jun 18, 2011 16:40
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I honestly wouldn't recommend any varnish at all for use through an airbrush. Dried varnish is a pain in the rear end to clean up, and when it dries inside an airbrush, you run the risk of damaging the airbrush beyond repair. I'm sure you can do it, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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Jun 18, 2011 16:42
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Whoops, i kinda assumed my own toolset here. I agree with sushi that i wouldn't pour varnish into my good or only airbrush. I think i have mentioned it before but i have a herpa airbrush with interchangeable nozzles. I have one nozzle and pot reserved for varnish and so far cleaning hasn't been much of a problem and if it somehow gets hosed a replacement nozzle is 2 Euro. It's single action and not fit for detail work really but perfect for basecoating, preshading, varnishing etc.
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Jun 18, 2011 17:01
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Bistromatic posted:herpa airbrush Now this? This I would spray varnish through. Exchangeable gravity-fed cups, cheap but durable assembly with easy-to-replace parts (that are also inexpensive); even if you let it dry out inside, I don't imagine it would be beyond salvage.
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Jun 18, 2011 19:09
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This seems like the place to ask this since it's not game specific. How many people here regularly or ever attend tournament with a fully painted requirement? What do you think about that? I started playing 40K about 15 years ago and we had monthly tournaments where everything had to be fully painted. I remember staying up late the night before a tournament painting my new stuff so I could play it the next day. We made sure everything was fully painted too. Somewhere along the line the painted requirement was relaxed to "Must have 3 colors of paint on every model". This ended up with jackasses painting 3 color dots on the bases of stuff then showing up every month with the same army. That was about when I quit playing. I've been playing WarMachine/Hordes lately and they have a Hardcore tournament with a fully painted and based requirement (plus other rules). Most of their other tournament formats don't have a painting requirement. There is an option in the Steamroller rules to add a painting requirement to your tournament. I'd like to but I think everyone would be mad at me if I did.  What got me thinking about this is there is 40K tournament going on at my shop today. There are 22 players and 11 are fully painted. I thought it was way less but I actually walked around and counted.
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Jun 18, 2011 20:10
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Someone in either this or the 40k thread said they have a house rule in their games where painted models have the preferred enemy rule against unpainted ones, obviously that only works for 40k but I'm sure you could figure out something similar for other games. We all thought it was a pretty cool idea.
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Jun 18, 2011 20:51
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I think if youre going to do a tourney like that, you need to have some sort of slow-grow paint and play type thing leading up to it. wm/h players vary a lot when it comes to painting.
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Jun 18, 2011 20:58
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I think both options should be available to players. Seeing well painted armies and cool conversions really adds a lot to the tournament experience. Personally I'd rather gimp myself a little and play fully painted than have one or two silver warriors on my side. Most of the locals at my gaming place play fully painted even in casual games and it's much easier to keep to that standard once you have most of the staples painted. On the other hand some people don't have the time or energy to paint up all their stuff. Especially new players that might buy plenty of pewter before they find what works for them. I don't think they should be totally blocked from competitive play. Organizing a tournament with painting requirements if there are not many players who already have or are very close to a fully painted list they want to play probably won't work. Maybe do 25p mangled metal/tooth 'n claw or something at first and see what happens? You can have hardcore painting requirements in any SR2011 tournament nowadays, not only 50pts with hardcore time limits.
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Jun 18, 2011 21:16
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PaintVagrant posted:I think if youre going to do a tourney like that, you need to have some sort of slow-grow paint and play type thing leading up to it. wm/h players vary a lot when it comes to painting. I can't get slow-grow to work around here. Right now I'm trying to bribe people to paint with a chance to win a battle engine. The people who want to paint anyway think the assignments are too small. The people who don't want to paint complain about painting in general. Even if I say right now that all tournaments (for any game) starting in Jan 2012 will be fully painted, I'll still get people bitching about "What about new players? What about new Armies?" Back in the day we would play pick up games or go to weekly game night with our unpainted new stuff but we couldn't play with it in the tournament with it until it was fully painted. We understood this and we didn't bitch about it. Edit: I guess I was wondering when the change in attitude happened. I think it happened here when 40K changed editions (2nd to 3rd? maybe later) and everyone's fully painted armies all suddenly became illegal at the same time.
GoodBee fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Jun 18, 2011 |
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Jun 18, 2011 21:19
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