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My coworker took delivery last week (ordered it in March I think) of a WRB 2011 WRX Hatchback and finally brought it in to work tonight. So pretty, so jealous. That being said, I still like the styling of the older wagons better.
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Jun 20, 2011 12:36
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daslog posted:
There is nothing special about Subaru oil - it's just another brand with a dealer markup
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Jun 20, 2011 12:47
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Cat Terrist posted:There is nothing special about Subaru oil - it's just another brand with a dealer markup Actually, the cost of it is pretty reasonable. It's the same cost as Rotella 5w40 that I'm putting in the '02.
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Jun 20, 2011 13:55
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jamal posted:I highly recommend 5w40 Yes, the filler cap says 5-30, but the manual says 5w-30 for loving cold to like 100F and 10-40 for about 30F to roughly infinity. 5-40 is just the best of both worlds. They just don't make dino 5-40 and I think subaru wanted to keep average cost of ownership figures down (hence the original 7500mi on dino juice rec).
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Jun 20, 2011 16:19
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nm posted:It is worth noting that this is actually in the manual. Actually, it's not anymore. In the 2011 owner's manual addendum, they make it clear that 5w30 is the only weight oil you should be using in the car. They say you CAN use 5w40 and (i think) 10w30 if you can't get 5w30 synthetic, but the next oil change must be back to 5w30. I can grab a scan of that page later on tonight if anyone wants to see it, but the language is pretty much the same as it is for anything less than 91 octane. You can use it if you have no other choice, but you should switch back to the recommended with the next change. Because of the change and the fact that I don't know of any decent 5w30 synthetic oil locally, I'm just going to keep using the subaru synthetic while I'm in the warranty period. I'll probably switch to the Rotella 5w40 once the warranty is done, but for now that would actually give them grounds to deny a warranty claim if I routinely used it since it is not the correct oil according to the maintenance schedule. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 16:46 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 16:35
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bull3964 posted:Because of the change and the fact that I don't know of any decent 5w30 synthetic oil locally, I'm just going to keep using the subaru synthetic while I'm in the warranty period. I'll probably switch to the Rotella 5w40 once the warranty is done, but for now that would actually give them grounds to deny a warranty claim if I routinely used it since it is not the correct oil according to the maintenance schedule. I'm doing the same thing for the same reason. Subaru oil, filter and 3500 mile changes leave no room for them to argue.
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Jun 20, 2011 17:31
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It would annoy me, but I have a Subaru dealer closer to my house than any auto parts store and the oil costs the same as the Rotella anyways. Bonus is I have a nice invoice from subaru stating what I bought and it's in their computers as well. So, there's really no question of what was used.
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Jun 20, 2011 17:36
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bull3964 posted:It would annoy me, but I have a Subaru dealer closer to my house than any auto parts store and the oil costs the same as the Rotella anyways. It's their burden to prove that you didn't use appropriate oil anyway. You think that they wouldn't still try to weasel out of a new motor if they didn't want to replace it? All they'd have to say is "driver abuse" and refuse the warranty repair. Use whatever oil you want to, they're not going to do a chemical analysis on it to match it to subaru branded oil.
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Jun 20, 2011 18:30
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Amandyke posted:It's their burden to prove that you didn't use appropriate oil anyway. You think that they wouldn't still try to weasel out of a new motor if they didn't want to replace it? All they'd have to say is "driver abuse" and refuse the warranty repair. Use whatever oil you want to, they're not going to do a chemical analysis on it to match it to subaru branded oil. I think you are confusing the issue. This isn't about Subaru branded oil, it's about the right weight of the oil. 5w30 synthetic is the only oil weight approved to use on turbo Subarus from 2011+. Period. If you do not use a 5w30 synthetic, they can deny any warranty claim on engine internals out of hand. They flat out have to prove abuse. However, if I can't prove that I used the correct fluids according to the maintenance plan, my warranty is void. Again, it doesn't have to be the Subaru branded oil, but I would have to prove I used a 5w30 synthetic.
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Jun 20, 2011 18:37
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bull3964 posted:They flat out have to prove abuse. However, if I can't prove that I used the correct fluids according to the maintenance plan, my warranty is void. Again, it doesn't have to be the Subaru branded oil, but I would have to prove I used a 5w30 synthetic. Strictly speaking, the same burden of proof for them proving abuse carries over to everything else warranty related as well. Granted it's something that they can actually test for in the case of oil. And it makes it somewhat more fluid to have the paperwork showing that you purchased 5w30 synthetic oil. But it's still up to Subaru to prove that you used something other than 5w30 synthetic.
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Jun 20, 2011 18:44
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I somehow managed to miss this thread but I own two Subaru's, a 11' Legacy that I purchased for my wife, and now an 06' Outback XT limited that I just picked up last week.   I have always been a Subaru fan so it's nice to have both of our cars be safe and reliable.
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Jun 20, 2011 18:52
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Amandyke posted:Strictly speaking, the same burden of proof for them proving abuse carries over to everything else warranty related as well. Granted it's something that they can actually test for in the case of oil. And it makes it somewhat more fluid to have the paperwork showing that you purchased 5w30 synthetic oil. But it's still up to Subaru to prove that you used something other than 5w30 synthetic. Honestly though, showing up with zero or incomplete maintenance records is really all the proof they need. Anyways, the point I was trying to make is it doesn't really make sense not to use the Subaru Synthetic if you have a dealer close by. I believe some people have done a UOA on it and it fairs pretty well. It's comparable in price to other synthetics. And Subaru has a record of when and what you bought which will help, however so little, if you have to make a warranty claim. If you are doing anything that needs a better and fancier oil, you are likely doing something that will instantly void the warranty anyways.
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Jun 20, 2011 19:04
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Regeared the car in February from 4.11 to 4.44 with an FXT gearbox. Speedo/odo is off. Now that I got cash, I need to convert it. The VSS is three wires, I should be able to splice in some kind of converter box. Anyone got any recommendations? Would be sweet if I could adjust it to my gravel size too and be supper accurate as well for TSDs. This is what my initial hunting around found: http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=287/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm
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Jun 20, 2011 23:47
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Cat Terrist posted:Who wouldnt have a Forester STI in a blink? At this point, it looks and functions like a small SUV / crossover. I just don't think many people who Subaru NA is aiming it at would want it to be lower / more hardcore.
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Jun 20, 2011 23:55
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How difficult is it to replace a fender liner? My front driver's side is pretty much shredded from the PO
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Jun 21, 2011 00:55
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VolumeBroadcast posted:My sister has an automatic 09 XT and I can say its actually a blast to drive. Haven't ridden in a new outback so I cant give my .02 there, but if she wants something extremely versatile its hard to beat a forester XT. What year is your car? I've got an 09 WRX and Rotella T6 has been amazing. Like 10k oil change interval amazing and it still has life left in it according to Blackstone. I'll send you the test reports if you want, just drop me a PM.
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Jun 21, 2011 01:00
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JayKay posted:How difficult is it to replace a fender liner? My front driver's side is pretty much shredded from the PO   Not hard. The fender liner is held in by plastic clips.  You'll break some of them. Get a box of replacements. I have no idea what the gently caress they're called, but I had some heavy duty ones I put in after I ripped my liner off and twisted my fender.
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Jun 21, 2011 01:20
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Cat Terrist posted:There is nothing special about Subaru oil - it's just another brand with a dealer markup Must be something to do with "the idiot who brought her 2011 Forester in and it had a Valvoline sticker with Synth-Blend. With the wrong Filter."
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Jun 21, 2011 01:25
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Slow is Fast posted:Regeared the car in February from 4.11 to 4.44 with an FXT gearbox. Speedo/odo is off. Now that I got cash, I need to convert it. The VSS is three wires, I should be able to splice in some kind of converter box. Anyone got any recommendations? Would be sweet if I could adjust it to my gravel size too and be supper accurate as well for TSDs. Swap the reluctor ring from your old transmission and do it the right way. E: Sucks because now I think you're going to have to remove the whole trans again. Hope you kept the old one. Lowclock fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 01:31
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Were there any engine changes from 2010 to 2011 on the WRX that prompted to change to synthetic? I've just been getting the regular recommended oil when I get get it changed at the dealership for my 2010.
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Jun 21, 2011 01:47
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DrChu posted:Were there any engine changes from 2010 to 2011 on the WRX that prompted to change to synthetic? I've just been getting the regular recommended oil when I get get it changed at the dealership for my 2010. It allowed them to put the recommended OCI to 7500 miles. That's the only reason for the change.
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Jun 21, 2011 04:26
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Cat Terrist posted:Well the 04 was certainly a good deal more than the quoted power of 210 hp - yep we get the 09 at 190isk Kw, the newer XT however certainly isnt that much now. You've got me confused here. I was under the impression that the 04 and 05 Forester XT were the same, while 06 and later were downgraded. If there was a change between 04 and 05, what was it?
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Jun 21, 2011 07:53
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FecalFajita posted:You've got me confused here. I was under the impression that the 04 and 05 Forester XT were the same, while 06 and later were downgraded. 05 was closer to it's published power and a few more doodads to weigh it down.
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Jun 21, 2011 08:21
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Lowclock posted:Swap the reluctor ring from your old transmission and do it the right way. No way in hell those plastic sensors would have not shattered into a million pieces when I did the swap in February. I need something adjustable for tires anyways and I don't want to put a rally computer in yet.
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Jun 21, 2011 11:56
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In the ever maddening quest of one man to fix his Subaru.... The problem came back, got out and immediatly checked the passenger side AVCS plug. And what do you know it was water fouled. How, I dont know. Clean it off, car runs again. Back home, dry plug, no problems. I got the feeling I am onto something here finally
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Jun 21, 2011 12:29
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Slow is Fast posted:No way in hell those plastic sensors would have not shattered into a million pieces when I did the swap in February. I need something adjustable for tires anyways and I don't want to put a rally computer in yet. It's a metal gear-looking wheel inside the trans, I don't know what you're talking about shattering.
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Jun 21, 2011 12:35
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I'm starting to notice quite a loud chattering noise when using the clutch when the WRX is cold. It goes away after 5 mins of driving. It happens whenever the clutch is not either fully depressed or fully released. Throw out bearing? Is this common? Just hit 5000 miles. There are no dealers nearby, getting it fixed is going to be a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 21, 2011 15:25
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Cat Terrist posted:05 was closer to it's published power and a few more doodads to weigh it down. I know the 05 has power seats, a ECU that isn't interchangeable with the 04, and they offered the limited trim with the 5spd option. But what was changed to lower the power? The factory tune? Anything mechanically? FecalFajita fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jun 21, 2011 |
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Jun 21, 2011 17:08
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Slow is Fast posted:Regeared the car in February from 4.11 to 4.44 with an FXT gearbox. Speedo/odo is off. Now that I got cash, I need to convert it. The VSS is three wires, I should be able to splice in some kind of converter box. Anyone got any recommendations? Would be sweet if I could adjust it to my gravel size too and be supper accurate as well for TSDs. I used that one when I swapped a new speedo into my Mercedes, worked great.
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Jun 21, 2011 19:02
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Slow is Fast posted:
People usually call them "pop-its" but they're technically nylon rivets. Search around and you can find replacements. Get a door panel tool and you shouldn't break any though.
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Jun 21, 2011 21:04
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My local Lowes has a drawer full of automotive fasteners.
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Jun 21, 2011 21:09
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bull3964 posted:My local Lowes has a drawer full of automotive fasteners. Mine doesn't. Surprisingly, the only stores around me with the most automotive clip things is OSH.
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Jun 21, 2011 21:29
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I'm looking for some new fender liner rivets too, but the plastic bit of the fender liner that the pop clip goes into is actually what's torn on mine. I was told auto body supply shops usually have 'em, but I was kind of hoping for some online supply shop of them where I could just order a kilogram and never have to worry about it for the rest of my life.
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Jun 21, 2011 22:53
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FecalFajita posted:I know the 05 has power seats, a ECU that isn't interchangeable with the 04, and they offered the limited trim with the 5spd option. Factory tune. They went from being a 13.8 0-400m car to a 14.2 0-400 m car, That doesnt sound like much but it's enough to juuuuuust bring them back to the WRX and allow the WRX when it got the 2.5 to jump ahead again. If you jump into a 04, you will notice the difference. Thinking of an 06 - dry AVCS plug, no issues. Plot does indeed thicken
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Jun 21, 2011 22:57
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sanchez posted:I'm starting to notice quite a loud chattering noise when using the clutch when the WRX is cold. It goes away after 5 mins of driving. It happens whenever the clutch is not either fully depressed or fully released. My RS did the same thing. Chattering going into gear when cold. Went away when I did the clutch job. Usually it's the throw out bearing. Odd that it would be doing that on a new car. Choadmaster posted:I used that one when I swapped a new speedo into my Mercedes, worked great. Thank you. I'll be ordering one of these. Got a TSD at the end of July that I need to get dialed in for. The cool thing about the 04 FXT's (USDM at least) was that it was pretty much a few things away from an STi motor. I want to say same block with different heads, not sure exactly. You can slap on the VF39, STi ECU, STi top mount, and STi upipe. Pair all that up with a stock 4.44 gearbox and you've got a toaster that hauls rear end using other peoples hand me downs.
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Jun 22, 2011 02:09
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About to go check out a pretty reasonable looking bugeye WRX at a subaru dealership tomorrow. The price is decent, but it has 120k miles and the carfax says nothing about timing belts or really any service heavier than oil changes and a cv boot, so it makes me wonder. What's the service interval supposed to be for the timing belts, and how much do they usually cost? I live in north texas, if that makes a difference.
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Jun 22, 2011 04:41
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm looking for some new fender liner rivets too, but the plastic bit of the fender liner that the pop clip goes into is actually what's torn on mine. http://stores.ebay.com/idarco Doesn't look like they have Subaru, and I dunno if the unit price is that great for you.
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Jun 22, 2011 04:49
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Still no wet plug / car problem. Actually got a glint of hope now the problem is found
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Jun 22, 2011 09:49
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an audible groan posted:About to go check out a pretty reasonable looking bugeye WRX at a subaru dealership tomorrow. The price is decent, but it has 120k miles and the carfax says nothing about timing belts or really any service heavier than oil changes and a cv boot, so it makes me wonder. What's the service interval supposed to be for the timing belts, and how much do they usually cost? I live in north texas, if that makes a difference. I really don't know if stuff like that will show up on a carfax report. Timing belt change interval is 105k miles. If there's no service documentation that the timing belt change was done, assume it hasn't been. It may be the reason it was sold in the first place. A full timing belt, tensioner, waterpump, pulley, coolant change at the dealership costs around $900 or so. This should factor into the price negotiations. Otherwise, the car is a ticking time bomb.
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Jun 22, 2011 16:04
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bull3964 posted:I really don't know if stuff like that will show up on a carfax report. Timing belt change interval is 105k miles. Also have them do the usual compression test/leak down if you get serious about buying it.
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Jun 22, 2011 16:53
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