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If you're insistent on dipping, use Minwax Polycrylic, which is an acrylic stain + varnish, instead of Minwax Polyshades, which is an oil-based polyurethane. Thin it 1:1 with acrylic floor polish (Future, Kleer, etc) and dip or brush it onto your models. You won't have to shake anything off, and it's infinitely cheaper than buying GW washes.
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Jun 22, 2011 17:28
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Sneakily cross-posting my deffkopters from the oath thread  The first one took me about five hours, the other two took me two hours each at most. That's progress.
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Jun 22, 2011 17:42
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Thanks, Simpo for suggesting Fimo polymer clay a few pages back and also for the sculpting links. Picked up a huge amount of Fimo classic at a nearby hobby shop that had them on clearance and I find it so much easier, and cheaper to work with. Here are three models I've been working on the last couple of days. They are a little larger than normal (about 1x3" for the smaller two, 2x4 for the dragonman) but I like how the Fimo classic is firmer and not as sticky as greenstuff. I still use the green stuff for fiddly details that are hard to stick to the model like the dragonborn's armor spikes and the wereboar's tail. The friggin Mississippi heat and humidity today means that I'm going to have to re prime the last two but hopefully I'll have them painted soon too. These larger scale models gives me a chance to practice painting techniques as well since all I had done before was watercolors.
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Jun 22, 2011 17:51
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Anyone have a replacement wash for Thraka Green? I've decided to give little or no money to GW, so I am looking for a wash which is the same or as close to Thraka Green as is available.
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Jun 22, 2011 17:57
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The Dark Project posted:Anyone have a replacement wash for Thraka Green? I've decided to give little or no money to GW, so I am looking for a wash which is the same or as close to Thraka Green as is available. ...look up Coat d'Arms?
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Jun 22, 2011 18:03
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Chance II posted:...Is the top one Gruagach from Hellboy? If it is, that's awesome. If it's not, congratulations because you've accidentally modelled an existing character.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:07
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The Dark Project posted:Anyone have a replacement wash for Thraka Green? I've decided to give little or no money to GW, so I am looking for a wash which is the same or as close to Thraka Green as is available. Get some Vallejo/Other brand glaze medium, with this miracle stuff you can add any colour you like to it to make washes that have the same properties. So you could use a couple drops of dark angels green to about 10 parts medium and voila.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:08
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PierreTheMime posted:...Is the top one Gruagach from Hellboy? If it is, that's awesome. If it's not, congratulations because you've accidentally modelled an existing character. Ha yes that is Gruagach. I wanted to start with a reference before free styling and I really like the look of Mignola's monsters.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:14
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The Dark Project posted:Anyone have a replacement wash for Thraka Green? I've decided to give little or no money to GW, so I am looking for a wash which is the same or as close to Thraka Green as is available. http://www.thewarstore.com/product52180.html Vallejo Game Color Green Wash is what I would suggest. I could probably do a side by side if you really want. Coat d'Arms is who made the oldest GW paints and it's where you go to find colors that are long out of print. For Thraka Green and more recently out of print stuff Vallejo is a better match or just plain easier to find.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:15
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Chance II posted:Here are three models I've been working on the last couple of days. I love that pig. He looks like a boxer, like he's about to step into the ring with Apollo Creed and get turned into bacon.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:17
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Excellent. Vallejo it is then. If it can help me make my Spirit Hosts looks like this, then that's what I will use. Alternatively, could I possibly make some with future floor finish? Or won't it work as well? The Dark Project fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jun 22, 2011 |
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Jun 22, 2011 18:20
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The Dark Project posted:Anyone have a replacement wash for Thraka Green? I've decided to give little or no money to GW, so I am looking for a wash which is the same or as close to Thraka Green as is available. Coat D'Arms do a full range of washes that are supposedly meant to match GW's. They also are cheaper, get more and I find their normal paints to be better quality than GW, Vallejo and P3 paints (even though they make p3) I have not tried the washes though.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:21
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The Coat d' Arms super green wash is nothing like Thraka green. It's a crazy neon green wash, brighter than Scorpion green.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:22
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MasterSlowPoke posted:The Coat d' Arms super green wash is nothing like Thraka green. It's a crazy neon green wash, brighter than Scorpion green. Ok that is a bummer then, a quick search tells me that they dont make a dark green one either. This is what I have gotten up to at work tonight. I had to borrow a new fire dragon from a bloke at the gaming club because I thought I had an extra one, submitted a list for the tournament this weekend and it turns out I only had 4 fire dragons, whoops. So I am probably going to have to strip the new fella and return it when the tournament is over.  Only got to finish painting these guys, do some finishing touches on Eldrad and paint some bases and the army is complete.
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Jun 22, 2011 18:41
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The Dark Project posted:Anyone have a replacement wash for Thraka Green? I've decided to give little or no money to GW, so I am looking for a wash which is the same or as close to Thraka Green as is available. Cheapest washes ever, Les Bursley's wash recipes: http://www.awesomepaintjob.com/index.cfm/resources.recipes
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Jun 22, 2011 19:35
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Indolent Bastard posted:Cheapest washes ever, Les Bursley's wash recipes: He varnishes his models with gloss varnish. then sprays washes, and then uses Rubbing Alcohol on a foam rubber makeup applicator to remove the washes from the upper parts of the model. If you watch this, you will see: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpyoxsJ1UoQ Edit: while watching his videos, I like to imagine that it is actually the speed at which he paints.
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Jun 22, 2011 20:23
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Sole.Sushi posted:I think maybe doing a red marble effect might be nice, or perhaps some awesome cinnabar would be cool too. For the metal, a tarnished silver would complement the aged stone idea, still keep in line with the rest of your army, and give you a nice bit of play-around with the colors. Otherwise, go with the jade if you really want to set them apart, though I'd suggest tarnished iron instead of the gold. Still has good contrast, but adds to the whole really old statue motif. I think the red marble/stone with tarnished iron would look really awesome on Immortals but I'm afraid that doing them in a red would either make them clash with the red I've already got or they would just blend in too much. I'm not really set on jade but I think I'm set on green. I did up part of this guy as a test last night and I'm liking it. It looks more gemstone than jade but I'm okay with that. The wash was still wet on this. I think I want to go with a bronze for the metal bits.  And because this is SA. This is what one of our friends was playing with last night. He doesn't see a problem with this. I told him I'm posting pictures of this on the internet and mocking it. 
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Jun 22, 2011 22:55
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that sure is a limp lance
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Jun 22, 2011 23:06
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How did you paint that jade on because I want to use it and some cut up sprue to make some WYRDSTONE.
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Jun 22, 2011 23:07
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Black primer Vallejo Dark Green (Same as GW Dark Angel Green) P3 Iosan Green (Close to GW Snot Green but more jewel tone) 50/50 Iosan/Vallejo Scorpion Green Thraka Green Wash I just got in some Secret Weapon Bases in and they look great. I haven't tried working with them or pinning stuff to them yet but I'm excited.
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Jun 22, 2011 23:21
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Decided that after a rather lovely morning of work I should finish up the sternguard I have had sitting around for a few days now. They came out pretty well need some touch ups and admittedly some of my home made combi-meltas aren't the best but I am very impressed.  Also if your like me and have been struggling with eyes on space marines, just get a dab of color in the socket and then some dark wash around the edges makes them look early good with little effort.
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Jun 22, 2011 23:57
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dexefiend posted:He varnishes his models with gloss varnish. then sprays washes, and then uses Rubbing Alcohol on a foam rubber makeup applicator to remove the washes from the upper parts of the model. I successfully use his washes without all that rigmarole. I just use them like GW washes.
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Jun 23, 2011 00:45
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Inverse Icarus posted:I just got a notice that my items have shipped today, 10 days after the order went through. I didn't notice they had that "backed up" message, it's all good. Got the dragonforge bases today, 3 days after the ship. Also got my hobby drill! Going to have to swing by the home depot for some clippers and rods.
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Jun 23, 2011 01:18
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GoodBee posted:And because this is SA. This is what one of our friends was playing with last night. He doesn't see a problem with this. I told him I'm posting pictures of this on the internet and mocking it. Do horses ever have all four feet off the ground VVV cool.
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Jun 23, 2011 01:44
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Yes but they usually have heads when they do this.
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Jun 23, 2011 01:45
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Two questions: On my Tau Pathfinder Shas'Ui I want to fill in the guns lines with a silver but have the base of the gun back. Would I want to make a wash of silver with flow improver and apply then fill in black areas? Or Fill in black areas and apply the wash? I also want a more fine brush then the 000 series 7. I have a very steady hand but I don't find the brush to be small enough for what I am trying to achieve with some things. What is a nice fine brush that you guys recommend?
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Jun 23, 2011 01:57
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wash first then paint over the black to touch up.
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Jun 23, 2011 02:32
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What the hell are you painting that you need something smaller than a 000? 
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Jun 23, 2011 03:03
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Raunchy posted:Two questions: On my Tau Pathfinder Shas'Ui I want to fill in the guns lines with a silver but have the base of the gun back. Would I want to make a wash of silver with flow improver and apply then fill in black areas? Or Fill in black areas and apply the wash? I'm trying figure out what you want to do. You want the recessed lines on the Tau gun to be silver? In my experience I cannot thin down a metallic paint to wash consistency without the larger metallic pigments either losing cohesion and separating or just sort of making a glittery mess. If there is an example of using metallic washes I would be interested in seeing it and what it's applications are. I would paint the recessed parts with silver normally and then paint the raised parts around it. Do you have the 000 standard length or miniature length? For something I find the shorter bristles of the miniature better for somethings.
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Jun 23, 2011 03:21
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GoodBee posted:I'm trying figure out what you want to do. Yeah I was having trouble with the consistency of the metallic wash. And I have the Winsor & Newton Series 7 000. I was trying to fill the recessed lines in:]
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Jun 23, 2011 03:39
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Fyrbrand posted:What the hell are you painting that you need something smaller than a 000? Touching up the text on our Epic marines' purity seals. 
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Jun 23, 2011 04:03
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Well its been storming all day so I just primed in the house so I could do some painting. Here they are more or less finished. I think I might go back and put some more war paint on the dragonborn and try to lighten up either his flesh tone or the leather belts so that there is more definition. 
Chance II fucked around with this message at 04:24 on Jun 23, 2011 |
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Jun 23, 2011 04:22
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Try using a needle or a sharp toothpick?
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Jun 23, 2011 04:44
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My girlfriend is painting!  Also, as I mentioned, my Dragonforge bases came in today. Primed 'em, drilled 'em, and started painting 'em!  This Merc army is going to put my Legion to shame, probably.
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Jun 23, 2011 07:37
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GoodBee posted:Do you have the 000 standard length or miniature length? For something I find the shorter bristles of the miniature better for somethings. All these years I've been using a normal 000 I just assumed they were all standard length. I need to get me a miniature series one now 
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Jun 23, 2011 08:13
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Any quick and easy tips for rust? I have a decent copper going, and I want to like, splash on some orange or something.
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Jun 23, 2011 09:23
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Inverse Icarus posted:Any quick and easy tips for rust? I have a decent copper going, and I want to like, splash on some orange or something. Copper doesn't turn orange when oxidized, it goes green (verdegris, not rust). Easy way there is to just whip up a wash of P3 Arcane Blue + Thrall Flesh (not sure about ratios, play around with it, variations in the discoloration will get a more realistic effect) and apply it to spots on the copper where you'd get water streaks, etc. As for rusty iron/steel, any orange or brown will suffice, preferably several, applied in layers or stippled on. Devlan Mud applied in streaks/around rivets can easily make for good rusty water marks, too. P3 Bloodstone is an outstanding rust color.
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Jun 23, 2011 09:31
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Inverse Icarus posted:Any quick and easy tips for rust? I have a decent copper going, and I want to like, splash on some orange or something. Blazing orange and boltgun metal with a dab of brown and paint the metal with that first. Wash with devlan mud, then drybrush boltgun over all of it and edge highlight with chainmail/mithril. Quick and easy way I did it way back when on my orks.  (Power claw and gun on the front guy was done this way) richyp fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Jun 23, 2011 |
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Jun 23, 2011 10:22
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Inverse Icarus posted:Any quick and easy tips for rust? I have a decent copper going, and I want to like, splash on some orange or something. :edit: Durrr, copper != metal. Maybe something like Meredius Blue and some green would work? Then just drybrush, and lightly drybrush over that with your regular copper color once it's dry. Willeh fucked around with this message at 10:46 on Jun 23, 2011 |
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Jun 23, 2011 10:32
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richyp posted:All these years I've been using a normal 000 I just assumed they were all standard length. I need to get me a miniature series one now Be aware that due to the shorter bristles, the miniature series hold much less paint, and apparently it flows differently (and alot of people say it's a bad thing). Can anyone recommend a good dark purple paint for doing my CSM (Warriors of Mayhem) with? I have warlock, liche, worm and hormagaunt, but would prefer something darker i think. All mine are GW paints, but i don't mind using other brands.
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Jun 23, 2011 11:02
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