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Is SUM network just an east coast thing, or is it nation wide? I don't think I've ever found a non-SUM CU anywhere within hundreds of miles from where I live...in fact, I can't think of a small bank around me that ISN'T part of the SUM network.
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Jun 28, 2011 16:22
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LorneReams posted:Is SUM network just an east coast thing, or is it nation wide? I don't think I've ever found a non-SUM CU anywhere within hundreds of miles from where I live...in fact, I can't think of a small bank around me that ISN'T part of the SUM network. Not exclusively, but they do seem to be more concentrated on the East Coast. I was just poking around and they are way more spotty in the West. For instance the entire state of Nevada only has about 7 locations, all of them in or around Las Vegas. Montana doesn’t have any.
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Jun 28, 2011 16:58
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So are you guys recommending Credit Unions for most of my banking needs, would they give a competitive APY? Sorry, I've been with large banks since I was 10, I didn't even really know what credit unions were until I was 17. Also, I'm looking for a new savings bank now that Smarty Pig is at 1.10%. I'm seeing that Discover has the best APY at 1.15%? Would this be accurate?
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Jun 28, 2011 17:24
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Ironically, I can find a SUM ATM more easy then I could find a BoA ATM. They should really push that nationwide and really destory one of the only reasons you would bank at BoA anyway (ATMs everywhere).
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Jun 28, 2011 17:26
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There are no BofA branches in my state (Colorado), which is annoying since they bought my mortgage and won't let me pay it off early using their web site. Plenty of ATMs, not that that'd help me.
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Jun 28, 2011 18:48
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place fucked around with this message at 04:55 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Jun 29, 2011 04:07
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I have a quick question about credit card balance transfers. The gist is that I have 2 credit cards. The first, a Discover card, has monthly expenses that go on it (say around $600) that usually get paid off right away. It has an interest rate of around 12%. The other is a Visa that has a 20% interest rate. I recently took a trip to Italy and ended up with around $3500 charged to the Visa card (Discover isn't accepted in Europe). Technically I can probably pay off the Visa card in a few months, but in the meantime I might have to let some of my normal monthly expenses build up on my Discover card. However, I got one of those letters from Discover in the mail that I usually shred that has checks to do a balance transfer with no transfer fees and no interest for 18 months. Here are my questions: 1. Are there any sort of traps/tricks/loopholes that I am unaware of in doing this? I can easily have my trip paid off in much less than 18 months, so I'm not worried about that. If I wasn't having to make any payments on that trip balance right away, I wouldn't have to float a balance on my other card in the meantime, which would mean a net savings. 2. Is doing a balance transfer going to have any negative effect on my credit? I may be in the home buying market in 1-2 years and don't want to have issues there due to trying to save a little money in this exchange. I'm really tempted to just pay off the higher card in the next few months and eat the interest charges, just because it is easier and seems less risk prone, but part of me really hates wasting money/paying interest if I don't have to. Thanks in advance.
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Jun 29, 2011 16:13
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My debt Stafford loan: $8,910.67 @ 5.98% Mixed Federal Perkins loan: $1,174.47 @ 5% Subsidized Stafford loan: $3,159.32 @ 6% I have no CC debt or other debt of any kind. I graduated about a year ago and I have no investments at all and about $12,000 sitting in a checking account (yes, I now realize how retarded that is) + 1 year's worth of emergency funds set aside. I'm thinking that I should just go ahead and pay these off with the money that's sitting in my checking account. It seems like the obvious thing to do, but is there any reason at all I shouldn't?
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Jun 29, 2011 16:29
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Douche4Sale posted:I have a quick question about credit card balance transfers. There will be zero impact to your credit. Nothing is being paid down, nothing is being closed, your credit isn’t being pulled. Assuming they are not charging any balance transfer fees, then there shouldn’t be any tricks other than the already abundant tricks that credit cards issued by the big banks are capable of. You didn’t ask this, but I wonder how ready you are to buy a house if you went to Italy and spent $3500 you didn’t have and need some undefined period of time to pay it back (much less than 18 months?) (probably in a few months?) There is no point in paying more interest than you have to, so go ahead with the balance transfer. Just get yourself on a budget and save money so next time you want to do something nice you are not worried about rates, floats, and charging things on the right card to maximize your “savings”.
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Jun 29, 2011 16:54
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wacky posted:They asked for a second month's security deposit and would not budge. Because the market is so tight, we gave it to them :P I have no idea why they wanted it but I'm pretty sure there wasn't any good reason except just 'cause.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:00
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Deposits are the worst. When I moved into my place they gave me two choices - to pay more now, but get it back when I moved out, or pay less now and never get any of it back later. I took the second option and never looked back. It might not have been the best financial decision but it was worth it to me to avoid all of the bullshit you deal with when you move out.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:03
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Zeta Taskforce posted:There will be zero impact to your credit. Nothing is being paid down, nothing is being closed, your credit isn’t being pulled. Assuming they are not charging any balance transfer fees, then there shouldn’t be any tricks other than the already abundant tricks that credit cards issued by the big banks are capable of. Thanks for the response. I figured it was probably safe, but I really don't trust credit card companies at all and just wanted to make sure there wasn't some catch I was unaware of. As to your other advice, I appreciate it, but special circumstances arose. Basically, my spouse and I are in our final years or grad school. She will be finishing up in the next few months (depending on when she can get a date set, hence the uncertainty on timing), and already has a job lined up paying double her current salary. I'll be done in maybe a year or so and am expecting a similar salary increase, not to mention we will be relocating to a place with a much lower cost of living than where we live currently. Hence, the likelihood of maybe buying a home as opposed to renting. The Italy trip was an issue of her getting the opportunity to present her research at a conference there (her airfare and room and board were covered) and we found out too recently to save enough to not have to charge things and we felt like it was a waste to not take some time and see Italy when she was going for practically nothing. Thanks for the quick response again.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:06
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Sorry about that. It’s almost a reflex for me to go off like that. I’m a loan officer and sometimes by saying what needs to be said, I can vent since I have to be more diplomatic to our members. I’m all in favor of buying houses, but even though you will be stable with your incomes when you move, I would still wait for a year before you do. I recommend that people rent for a year while they learn the lay of the land, figure out what neighborhoods they like and don’t like, what’s close to the things that are important to them, etc. If you move to a new city and need to buy right away, you may also be prone to overpay, or at least not negotiate as hard as you otherwise would.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:19
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deernardz posted:My debt If that's not the case, then posting the rest of your situation (job, expenses, budget, etc.) would be helpful.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:21
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Zeta Taskforce posted:Sorry about that. It’s almost a reflex for me to go off like that. I’m a loan officer and sometimes by saying what needs to be said, I can vent since I have to be more diplomatic to our members. No worries at all. When I was in undergrad I was really irresponsible with my money and luckily didn't get into debt (but oh I wasted so much that could be have been invested as opposed to blown on stupid crap). Getting advice very similar to what you gave got me on track and I now have all sorts of spreadsheets that I track things pretty meticulously. That's good advice on the renting for a bit plan and I'll definitely investigate whenever that time rolls around. I mostly brought up the house thing as an example of something that could happen in the next few years and I didn't want me trying to save a bit on interest to hurt my credit or something and essentially make that decision for me.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:35
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place fucked around with this message at 04:54 on Feb 10, 2017 |
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Jun 29, 2011 20:43
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A lot of landlords intend to walk off with your deposit, but many states actually have fairly strong protections about this. When you move in, document the conditions of the place thoroughly, take pictures, the whole nine yards. Before you move out, make sure you know exactly what the landlord needs to show you for your deposit. Here in MA, they have 30 days to give you a written summary of the deductions with receipts for whatever they claim, and if they don't do that you can claim triple your deposit from them in court. There are a lot of landlords who will say something like 'oh well the carpet was wrecked I'm keeping the deposit' but when they realize that you are serious about it will fork over rather than go to court and lose because they didn't follow the law.
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Jun 29, 2011 20:52
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I've had landlords try this twice with me, and both times I got it back by asking for the escrow statements to see how much the final settlement would be.
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Jun 29, 2011 20:59
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Ashcans posted:There are a lot of landlords who will say something like 'oh well the carpet was wrecked I'm keeping the deposit' but when they realize that you are serious about it will fork over rather than go to court and lose because they didn't follow the law. Last landlord was like  no deposit.Sent him the multiple sections of the RLTO he had violated, mentioned that legally he was due me money and damages actually - that ended the issue right there. It takes time and research to figure out your position, but it is worth it. If they really want more money up front (as a landlord its good to know your client is liquid) offer to pay security deposit and last months rent. Then you know you can at least record the second piece by not paying rent for your final month.
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Jun 29, 2011 20:59
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Edit: doublepost
maskenfreiheit fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Mar 13, 2017 |
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Jun 30, 2011 13:13
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I'm a 22 year old student. I have no debt, a reliable vehicle, no expensive hobbies, assets (mostly musical instruments and gear) of about $10,000 and savings of roughly $15,500 through hard work and good budgeting. I'll be studying for the next three years. I'll be receiving some study allowance from the government but I also have a solid part-time job, meaning that my savings may increase by a few thousand a year or so during the next 3 years of study. I do live out of home, so rent and bills etc. is a factor, however I'm well on top of that. Is there anything smart I should do with this money? I could go in a partnership with various people for a property deposit, but as a student I'll have no chance of being approved for a mortgage in Australia. I've never invested before, but I don't see much point in leaving it in a bank account for the next 3 years growing dust and a small amount of interest. I'm open to any suggestions and am interested in the possible gains and inherent risks involved with any investment.
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Jun 30, 2011 14:25
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GregNorc posted:I guess what I am asking, is if I had one of those Vanguard lifestrategy funds, would I be better rebuying or sitting on it? You asked basically the same question a month ago and moana tried to walk you through why it’s pointless to sell and immediately rebuy something. What is it you can’t wrap your head around? If you had a perfect ability to predict the future though, you should sell at $14 and buy them back at $12, although Vanguard discourages that type of trading.
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Jun 30, 2011 15:51
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GregNorc posted:(Like, if each share is 10.00 and jumps to 14... maybe when I pull out it's at 12. Given that selling a rebuying incurs a tax burden, which is a better decision?) I don't know what the point of trying to time a fund to gauge its future highs and lows like that would be. If you're looking to buy low and sell high on investments, it would probably be easier to make money (and carry less risk, though still large risk, overall) by spending your time researching a handful of individual companies and stocks to find opportunities there. But timing the market in any sense requires a lot of effort and research and is unlikely to be successful enough to make that time spent worth it.
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Jun 30, 2011 16:22
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GregNorc posted:Basically, should I risk the fund not being at the level it is when it got really high, but not incur a tax burder, or reinvest to get more shares if it jumps? Why are you even talking about "pulling out"? If this is your retirement fund, you are not going to sell a share at all for years most likely; you'll just be buying buying buying. If you were going to sell and rebuy "to get more shares", well, see above; you can't short of being psychic and knowing when the share price is going to drop in the future.
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Jun 30, 2011 16:40
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Zeta Taskforce posted:You asked basically the same question a month ago and moana tried to walk you through why it’s pointless to sell and immediately rebuy something. What is it you can’t wrap your head around?
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Jun 30, 2011 16:40
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PaoFerro posted:I'm a 22 year old student. I have no debt, a reliable vehicle, no expensive hobbies, assets (mostly musical instruments and gear) of about $10,000 and savings of roughly $15,500 through hard work and good budgeting. I'll be studying for the next three years. I'll be receiving some study allowance from the government but I also have a solid part-time job, meaning that my savings may increase by a few thousand a year or so during the next 3 years of study. I do live out of home, so rent and bills etc. is a factor, however I'm well on top of that. I would just keep it in something really low-risk and be happy with the fact that you'll be coming out of school with that in-pocket. Maybe a three-year CD or something, I'm not sure how Australia works.
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Jun 30, 2011 17:39
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PaoFerro posted:Is there anything smart I should do with this money? I could go in a partnership with various people for a property deposit, but as a student I'll have no chance of being approved for a mortgage in Australia. I've never invested before, but I don't see much point in leaving it in a bank account for the next 3 years growing dust and a small amount of interest. Don't consider property, you're too young and it's too overpriced to be looking at that. With interest rates the way they are leaving it in a savings account is actually a pretty good option right now. UBank are offering 6.51% right now in their online saver account which works out to $1000 a year interest on your current balance. That's actually very favourable compared to most managed funds right now, and you're getting it risk free and your money is available at any time.
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Jul 1, 2011 05:56
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Contra Duck posted:UBank are offering 6.51% right now in their online saver account This is insane, how can Australia offer that kind of interest rate when top US offers are 1%?
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Jul 1, 2011 15:29
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baquerd posted:This is insane, how can Australia offer that kind of interest rate when top US offers are 1%? I know!! Makes me sad 
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Jul 1, 2011 15:42
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Zeta Taskforce posted:How much debt are we talking about? Are you at least able to afford the payments? How long have you been current? Thanks for the advice. One card is about $2300 and the other is about $1300. I believe I've made all payments since January, but I will have to check once I'm at home, as I am out of town currently. I'm sure that they wouldn't have reset my interest automatically, because chase is absolutely awful and evil. Thank god I closed my bank account with them. I'll definitely look into the credit union, but my credit score is pretty bad from collectors for hospitals and the like, so I'm not sure if 18% will be better than the non penalty chase rate.
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Jul 1, 2011 20:33
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baquerd posted:This is insane, how can Australia offer that kind of interest rate when top US offers are 1%? I have no idea, but I do know that these things are not risk free. Iceland used to get lots of foreign money in their high yield savings accounts, and then their banks collapsed during the great recession. They paid back Icelanders, but didn't cover losses of foreigners. Of course then lots of foreign governments (Britain, etc) covered their own people's losses from Icelandic banks, and now Iceland is going to pay back those governments. http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/8226717.stm
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Jul 2, 2011 17:31
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modig posted:I have no idea, but I do know that these things are not risk free. http://www.ubank.com.au/ub/web/customer-help/government-guarantee#govGuarantee baquerd posted:This is insane, how can Australia offer that kind of interest rate when top US offers are 1%?
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Jul 3, 2011 03:48
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modig posted:I have no idea, but I do know that these things are not risk free. Iceland used to get lots of foreign money in their high yield savings accounts, and then their banks collapsed during the great recession. They paid back Icelanders, but didn't cover losses of foreigners. Of course then lots of foreign governments (Britain, etc) covered their own people's losses from Icelandic banks, and now Iceland is going to pay back those governments. At this point there's less risk with an Australian bank than with an American one.
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Jul 4, 2011 01:08
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hyperbowl posted:At the moment they are pretty close. Until October 12 they are covered by the federal deposit guarantee. However, these types of accounts are restricted to Australian residents. Agreed! I'll trade our high savings rates for US fixed mortage rates (no such thing as a fixed rate for the whole term of the mortage unless you are paying well above variable rate) and price of houses. But yes I say definitely stick with Ubank, If you are under 29 stick with a Usaver Reach as you dont have to setup an automatic payment to get the 6.51%. If you are worried about using it, stick it in a term deposit for a year or three as you can get some similar rates.
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Jul 4, 2011 01:28
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I'm going to need money to move into an apartment very soon for a job offer I got and I'm wondering if there's a place I can get a short term loan within the next week that won't kill me with interest if I pay it off within the next 2 months...can anyone help me out here?
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Jul 6, 2011 15:56
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HornyBoy123 posted:I'm going to need money to move into an apartment very soon for a job offer I got and I'm wondering if there's a place I can get a short term loan within the next week that won't kill me with interest if I pay it off within the next 2 months...can anyone help me out here? Did you just graduate? How much money do you need and how much do you have? No friends or family can help out?
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Jul 6, 2011 16:43
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alreadybeen posted:Did you just graduate? How much money do you need and how much do you have? No friends or family can help out? I have $500 that I have available from a credit card that I plan to use, other than that I only have family that can help minimally--not very much though so I'm most likely going to have to borrow. I haven't graduated yet. I'm probably going to need about $1500-2000 HornyBoy123 fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Jul 6, 2011 |
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Jul 6, 2011 17:58
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HornyBoy123 posted:I have $500 that I have available from a credit card that I plan to use, other than that I only have family that can help minimally--not very much though so I'm most likely going to have to borrow. I haven't graduated yet. You probably will need to get an unsecured loan. At my credit union they start at 9.5% and go up from there based on credit quality and desired loan term. All we ask for is a paystub. You don’t want to be in the habit of buying toys and junk with them (people do), but it’s not a bad option when stuff like this comes up.
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Jul 6, 2011 18:24
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Zeta Taskforce posted:You probably will need to get an unsecured loan. At my credit union they start at 9.5% and go up from there based on credit quality and desired loan term. All we ask for is a paystub. You don’t want to be in the habit of buying toys and junk with them (people do), but it’s not a bad option when stuff like this comes up. This is really helpful. Thanks good sir 
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Jul 6, 2011 19:58
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So I find myself in kind of a curious situation. Back in 2007 when I was a sophomore in college. Now there was an offer of a free meal at a local restaurant, the catch was you had to sign up for a citibank credit card. No problem! I thought. The man that I signed up with assured myself and my friends that if I didn't use it there would be no issues. Great! Well, it is 2011 now and I just checked my credit report. The card is still there, of course. I never did use it at all, so the report says that it is in good standing. I have one other credit card that is also in good standing that I pay off. My question is: should I call and try to cancel this card? Or should I just let it sit on my report. Would it hurt my credit score if I cancel this card? Thanks. Jordanthehutt fucked around with this message at 00:36 on Jul 7, 2011 |
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Jul 7, 2011 00:26
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