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I have them on my TT and use them as summer/track tires. They won't disappoint on the track, but don't expect them to last all that long. 
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Jun 24, 2011 22:41
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Got my 250,000km award from MB today.
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Jun 25, 2011 02:26
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trouser chili posted:Got my 250,000km award from MB today. Why don't more car companies have this!?
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Jun 25, 2011 02:43
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Did a super quick black-out spray bomb job on the bow ties on my Cobalt. It's mostly an experiment to see how they'd look, and I like it. If they get lovely soon, I'll pull them off again and actually prep them and take my time.
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Jun 25, 2011 15:56
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ZombieLicker posted:Why don't more car companies have this!?
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Jun 25, 2011 17:20
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kimbo305 posted:Just because your undead J-body can make it to 150,000 mi doesn't mean you'll care. I think any General Motors car making it past 100k miles without rusting away into an unidentifiable heap of iron oxide and cracked plastic trim is an achievement worthy of recognition. It's like they added that sixth digit to the odometer as a tease. Yes, maybe you can see it roll over to 100k, but only if you put up with this rusty shitheap nickel and diming you to death first.
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Jun 25, 2011 19:09
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ZombieLicker posted:Why don't more car companies have this!? Because most car companies have no desire for you to own their cars. They only want you to buy them.
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Jun 25, 2011 23:25
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trouser chili posted:Because most car companies have no desire for you to own their cars. They only want you to buy them. "Because the maintenance schedule only goes to 100,000 miles!"
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Jun 25, 2011 23:33
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Rounded off two nuts on the rear swaybar clamps on my Mazda6. F'n rust.
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Jun 26, 2011 00:25
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ZombieLicker posted:Why don't more car companies have this!? Subaru has a chintzy plastic thing for high mileage. http://www.subaru.com/badgeofownership/index.html It is really crappy looking and I would never put it on my car. Mold lines, cheap plastic. The mockups look better than the real item. And the mockups look bad.
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Jun 26, 2011 02:55
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Today I spent $1700 on appearance-only mods (wheels, new struts & lowering springs). The old girl will look good after a facelift.
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Jun 26, 2011 18:25
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angryhampster posted:Rounded off two nuts on the rear swaybar clamps on my Mazda6. F'n rust. To follow up on this, I used a Craftsman bolt-out kit to remove the two nuts and then replaced the rear sway. Installation was fairly easy. e:  angryhampster fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Jun 27, 2011 |
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Jun 27, 2011 01:48
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ZombieLicker posted:Why don't more car companies have this!? Or is the real meaning that a Mercedes making it past 150,000 miles is actually something special?
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Jun 27, 2011 02:09
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Im only going to post this once but let me tell you im doing this every two to three days.  White car and exhaust carbon is going to be the end of me.
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Jun 27, 2011 10:39
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Cross-post from the BMW thread: Attached a new connector to my aux fan, then loomed (not shown). Works great. The old connector's sleeves were just too worn to make a positive connection.
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Jun 27, 2011 15:11
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Tentacle Party posted:Im only going to post this once but let me tell you im doing this every two to three days. If it's a Mazda that's not running rich, it's because it's not running 
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Jun 28, 2011 01:12
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Drove the cabot trail again on the weekend. e46 330Ci, Mazdaspeed3, e36 328is (mine), SVT Contour, ej20 swapped 2.5RS, Mazdaspeed3. The mustang is from some old guy who decided to race us for awhile.   My pads decided my freshly cleaned wheels should be gunmetal grey instead.
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Jun 28, 2011 01:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's a Mazda that's not running rich, it's because it's not running I didn't need that oil anyway  Today,  I painted the calliper's as originally they were bare metal, covered in brake dust and oxidised from cleaning products.  I also gave the wheels a good detail while they were off. Before left, after right.  Looks good! Tentacle Party fucked around with this message at 10:27 on Jun 28, 2011 |
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Jun 28, 2011 10:14
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changed my oil at work and found out several things due to the usefulness of lifts: -one of the rear wheel bearings is so shot that the wheel visibly wobbles when you grab it and shake. this probably explains the noise i've had for the last couple years and definitely explains the more recent tendency for the back to violently whip from side to side if i hit any sort of decent bump while turning. -power steering pump is leaking so the brand new rack I had put in a couple months ago was most likely not the problem. -after i got the rack installed and before i started my new job i took the car to sears for an alignment where they failed to undo the boot clips on the inner tie rods before aligning it. i now need two new inner boots because neither one is designed to be in two pieces and open to the elements. oh and the oil cap on top of the block doesn't sit tight anymore and that just plain irks me.
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Jun 29, 2011 01:26
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Breast Pussy posted:this probably explains the noise i've had for the last couple years. 
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Jun 29, 2011 01:29
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heat posted:it wasn't loose when I did the rear brakes a month ago i think i know exactly which nasty rotary pothole is to blame though.
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Jun 29, 2011 01:36
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Took the Ranger in for a much needed alignment today. Found out I'm going to have to rebuild/replace the steering box sooner than I had expected.
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Jun 29, 2011 03:09
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My diesel fuel system is going green! I had to change the fuel filter (odd green tint and full of chunks) after 200 miles. It's either the dieselshit growing in my tank again or 10% pump biodiesel cleaning it out.
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Jun 29, 2011 04:59
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Started hearing an annoying rattle/clunking from the back end, it's either my exhaust banging around or my diff mounts are toast. Decided to post about it instead of finding what the problem actually is. 
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Jun 29, 2011 05:17
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Finished removing the SVT exhaust header and replaced the leaking oil pan on my brother's Zetec Focus. Still to do: install stock exhaust so he can pass emissions and replace the thermostat & housing.Tentacle Party posted:
Should have painted the caliper bracket black instead of red... Geoj fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jun 29, 2011 |
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Jun 29, 2011 06:02
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Geoj posted:Should have painted the caliper bracket black instead of red... White and black car, a little highlight colour looks good. I bought a can of black to paint the rotor shrouds so I can always change my mind down the track.
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Jun 29, 2011 09:17
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Finally got a real tire pressure gauge and checked the pressures on my new (to me) 330Ci. Every corner was at 40psi! I dropped it down to the recommended 32 front 38 rear, and holy crap what a difference. The steering, especially over rough roads, is now much more compliant, bumps and dips aren't nearly as jarring, and it isn't as "twitchy" on the freeway. Even at 40psi the handling was excellent, but this just perfects it and smooths everything out. I love free fixes.
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Jun 29, 2011 21:55
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Guinness posted:Finally got a real tire pressure gauge and checked the pressures on my new (to me) 330Ci. Every corner was at 40psi! I dropped it down to the recommended 32 front 38 rear, and holy crap what a difference. The steering, especially over rough roads, is now much more compliant, bumps and dips aren't nearly as jarring, and it isn't as "twitchy" on the freeway. Even at 40psi the handling was excellent, but this just perfects it and smooths everything out. Your gas mileage will suffer. Be sure to keep a close eye on your wear on the front tires, 32 sounds terribly low, but if that's what the manual says, that's what it says. Personally I run 40 all the way around and swap to real tires when I go to AutoX for my fun.
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Jun 29, 2011 23:07
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The other day I changed the starter on that most precious and beloved of automobiles, a 1991 Dodge Dynasty. For a brief moment I felt proud of myself for actually fixing something until today when we realized that there's a leak somewhere in the cooling system. This is the kind of car that makes you hate all cars forever.
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Jun 29, 2011 23:33
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Came home to drop a deuce on my lunch break at work and found a package from FedEx so I installed my new parts before I went back to work. You know you're dedicated when you take off a suit at mid-day to work on your car when it's over 100 degrees outside. I replaced the metal intake pipes that go to the intercooler:  with silicone ones that are easy as balls to put on and use half as many t-bolt clamps, so less goddamn boost leaks.  It only took about 30 minutes to install them and most of the work was getting at the nuts on the clamps due to the awkward orientation you have to place them in. I gained a good two PSI just from persistent boost leaks from those goddamn pipes. I also think they look better.
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Jun 29, 2011 23:45
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Beach Bum posted:Your gas mileage will suffer. Be sure to keep a close eye on your wear on the front tires, 32 sounds terribly low, but if that's what the manual says, that's what it says. 32 sounds pretty normal to me. My Miata recommended ~32psi all around. I'm surprised by how high BMW recommends the rear to be. 38 sounds really high to me. From my experience, I'd be more worried about uneven tire wear at 40psi than at 32psi.
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Jun 30, 2011 00:06
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Yeah 40 is way too much for any kind of remotely performance tire. My wife's mazda protege is at 38 psi all around. My Z is at 32 all around. Any more tire pressure on my car and it starts to get extremely floaty.
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Jun 30, 2011 00:09
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Yeah, floaty, not twitchy, was the word I was looking for, especially on the freeway. Dropping the fronts down to 32 from 40 immediately got rid of that feeling. I might have to experiment a bit with tire pressures. I was sure I was reading the door jamb incorrectly when I saw the 38psi recommendation for the rears because it was so surprisingly high, but I quadruple checked and it feels pretty dialed in so eh it must be correct. I don't think I've ever owned a car that recommended more than 35psi, and more frequently it's been 30-32. But I don't drive econoboxes with rock hard low-friction tires.
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Jun 30, 2011 00:32
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I'm not gonna die in a fiery 3 wheel car crash thanks to $50 and some free time at work. month old rotors that were, naturally, stuck on good and tight  new, quiet, tight, shiny  16 year old hub and the ABS tone wheel from the new hub. I don't have ABS so I just knocked it off with a hammer and ground down the seat it was on until things fit.
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Jun 30, 2011 02:01
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I replaced the rear shocks on my 1991 318i. I'm doing the front one's at a friend's tomorrow.  Let's hope it all stay's together, I'm always paranoid I did something wrong.
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Jul 3, 2011 00:17
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Wheel bearings on the front of the scout again. Driver's side was all grumbly and whiny, passenger side was loose. Disassembled the driver's side and found the inner was shot, the outer was passable but I replaced both and the races after a thorough cleaning of the hub. Packed the old outer in fresh grease, and sealed it in a baggie as a trail spare. Then attacked the passenger side. All I needed to do was set the preload, but found them contaminated with mud and water. So a complete disassembly was had, then cleaning and repacking. That'll be good till the next trail ride.
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Jul 3, 2011 02:34
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Last weekend: Airaid CAI Yesterday: 93oct Bama tune. (Duh not pictured). Completely changes the character of the car. 2012 Mustang V6, with the new 3.7l. thetechnoloser fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jul 3, 2011 |
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Jul 3, 2011 04:47
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Disassembled and flushed my XT's A/C system. It had a botched R-134a conversion with a stuck-open schrader valve, so I'm doing the right thing and converting it back to R12 "Freedom" Freon. What a pretty engine bay! 
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Jul 3, 2011 05:20
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I installed a Blitz SBC iD electronic boost controller today. I ran new equal-length vacuum hoses from each wastegate then teed them and ran a single hose to the OUT port on the dual solenoid. I then ran equal-length vacuum hoses to the intercooler intake pipes and teed them off to the IN port. After the solenoid vacuum lines were taken care of I ran the electrical wiring in the cabin. I hacked in to the stereo harness for battery and key then fished the solenoid electrical connection to the brain box. Lastly I had to tap in to a vacuum line near the battery for the brain box' vacuum meter. Ironically I tapped in to the Greddy boost gauge vacuum monitor line. I set the settings to 1.20/.40 and made 14 pounds of boost on the first shot. I don't have a manual in english so I'll have to wing it. I also flushed my transmission and filled it with 75w90 Royal Purple gear oil. It is silky smooth now!
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Jul 4, 2011 00:15
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e: nm
Icon Of Sin fucked around with this message at 11:39 on Mar 30, 2012 |
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Jul 4, 2011 01:30
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