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Maybe you could make the steps canted a bit so they aren't flat? Or make the steps deeper than they are, I know I am likely to slip if my toes are going over the edge of the step.
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Jun 20, 2011 02:58
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Man dovetails are not easy when you have 36 different boards to cut into..... ahhhhhh. Learning that my dremel has power all the way up to 10 was an amazing experience! "GOD WHY WON'T THIS PIECE OF SH- WHOAAA WHOAAAAAAA YEAHHHH" I tried insulating my study room door so that my condo neighbors wouldn't complain, but my dremel is just too drat loud, I need a garage. I'm doing alright so far just getting some rough cut dovetails, but tomorrow I'll need to get a chisel set I think, its too difficult to get in between those angles to smooth them out. I really hope I can get this done by Wednesday in between some other stuff, its going to look badass. Here's a quick drawing of how its going to look now, I'm going to make three separate crates that can be stacked.  Here are some of the cut pieces.  Pardon my white balance. Isaac Asimov fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 04:31
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Isaac Asimov posted:I saw this too late, I'm going to test out the dremel on some scrap wood first but it will probably be fine. he sizes stated for wood in construction stores are all 1/4" - 1/2" different than the stated sizes because there measurement given is based on the initial rough stock size before it was planed and otherwise milled. For example, a 2x4 is actually 1.5x3.5. Normally when doing precision woodwork, you want to buy raw stock and machine it yourself. If you don't have a jointer or planer, this can be either impossible or time consuming (if you end up doing it by hand.) I've seen very few places that provide pre-milled pieces or milling service on-site. So if you can't mill your own lumber, make sure you check the sizes of whats available first. Also, I just noticed your new post, and yes, Chisels are a necessity when cutting dovetails. A good Dovetail/backsaw and chisels.
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Jun 20, 2011 08:04
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That is a very strange thing, I wish they would give a heads-up to the beginner woodsmiths. I was questioning all my references for reality with that 1/2 inch. I read that previous post but I guess I still didn't understand that all of the lumber would be like that and nothing would match the sticker size. Well, I'll be more prepared for next time or I'll look into a lumberyard. I'll get the right tools tomorrow.
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Jun 20, 2011 08:43
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Wood sizes are based off their thickness straight from the mill. That wood is very rough cut so it need to be planed on either two sides or on all four which is what you will find at most home improvement stores. So depending on how much they take off your "3 inch" thick board in actuality could be 2 31/32" all the way to 2 1/2". It all depends on the mill, board warp, and planer they use. It's one of those things you are apparently supposed to know when buying wood but very few people do. It's pretty frustrating.
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Jun 20, 2011 10:06
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The only comparison here is when they have different sizes in and the staff is too lazy to verify that you're getting what you are asking for. Rough wood milled is called "adjusted" here and means you get 48x148 mm instead of 50x150. Simple rule, obeyed by all. You can get small variations due to humidity in the wood but what you describe above sounds like hell. Including framework in construction. I know I would be pissed off if I ended up with a wall with a half inch gap to one side because the milling shaved off extra and the supplier didn't bother to check. gently caress it, you should go yell at some people. Stuff like that is infuriating and shouldn't be tolerated.
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Jun 20, 2011 11:22
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This kind of brings my brain to a standstill. So I NEED a joiner or a planar to get pieces into some uniformity for building things? That may nip this hobby in the bud right there. I have plenty of room (outside) to set up a basic shop, and 300+ days of sunshine a year, but almost nil in protected storage for tools. I've one 8x8 foot shed that's practically full right now, even fully organized. I've got enough floorspace in there to add a contractor's saw and then I'm pretty much done for what I can store tool-wise. 10" circular saw Sliding compound miter saw router table other various handtools, etc... Hopefully adding said contractor's saw here in the next couple of months, but if the material can't be trusted dimensionally and I can't house the tools to get it prepped, am I just done here? I've no problem going back to just being super handy around the house, I'd just like to know what I'm getting into I guess.
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Jun 20, 2011 16:14
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Alleric posted:So I NEED a joiner or a planar to get pieces into some uniformity for building things? Kind of. If you buy from a big box store, almost certainly. As I failed to correctly say in my previous email - I buy from http://www.woodworkerssource.com/ The lumber they (and many other sellers) provide is S2S (Surfaced 2 Sides) meaning that they have already planed the lumber flat. They also provide an option to straight-edge each piece, eliminating the NEED for a jointer. However, you may still need a planer and a jointer if: 1) You let the lumber sit in an area with different temperature/humidity than the lumber yard as it will warp. 2) You want the lumber to be a different thickness. 3) You want to make fine furniture and need every edge of every cut board to be jointed perfectly. Alternatively, you can go the hand-tool route and get a couple of planes  You can also joint edges of boards with a router - though not as well as a jointer would. This is my current solution. I would watch the following 2 videos for a proper intro: http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-4-a-lumbering-feeling/ http://thewoodwhisperer.com/episode-6-the-jointers-jumpin/
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Jun 20, 2011 17:09
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Isaac Asimov posted:Man dovetails are not easy when you have 36 different boards to cut into..... ahhhhhh. gently caress you for giving me cool ideas when I have no current way to act on them. Blistex posted:Stairs in my rear end If you have a Sherwin Williams or the like nearby go in and ask what they have in anti-skid/no slip additives. They'll probably have a few different things, mention it'll be used on wood. Try it out on scrap to see if it's something you can live with. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Jun 20, 2011 |
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Jun 20, 2011 17:14
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dja98 posted:Kind of. If you buy from a big box store, almost certainly. Holy poo poo dude, that site seems really, really expensive... 9$/BF for D2S Walnut? I pay 6$/BF for D4S and even that is a bit expensive for Domestic.
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Jun 20, 2011 20:00
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MarshallX posted:Holy poo poo dude, that site seems really, really expensive... Could be - there isn't a lot of good stuff near me so I have very little to compare it to 
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Jun 20, 2011 23:05
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When I worked in a lumber yard one summer I heard the same complaint every day. "Why are we paying full price for 2x4" lumber that's neither 2 or 4 inches?" Gets a little annoying the 50th time you hear it in a week. When we had contractors come in to put the roof on our cottage they were amazed that the wood we had was the actual size, (a 2x8" was actually 2x8" and planed). They waned to know where we got that stuff because it was so much easier to work with and it wasn't super hard and dried out like the kiln spruce they were used to.  We have our own portable bandsaw sawmill and thousands of acres of forest to pilliage.
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Jun 21, 2011 00:43
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dja98 posted:
This is my suggestion. I just finished working at a shop where they didn't allow us to use their tools for anything personal(which is usually a standard perk of working in the woodworking industry....) I ended up being relegated to a friend's garage where the only substantial power tool was a small table saw. It forced me to start milling my wood mostly by hand, which is immensely satisfying and can yield a much nicer surface than a machine planed board. It takes a lot of practice and a decent plane (or two,) but it's cheaper, quieter, and takes up less space than the power options. It also gives you some serious woodworking street-cred. Luckily I'm now working in a shop where I'm allowed to do personal work, but I still finish my surfaces by planing them by hand instead of running them through the wide-belt sander.
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Jun 21, 2011 01:11
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Here is an online source for hardwood lumber. http://www.walllumber.com/ Isaac Asimov posted:I read that previous post but I guess I still didn't understand that all of the lumber would be like that and nothing would match the sticker size. Well, I'll be more prepared for next time or I'll look into a lumberyard. And actually when you buy from a hardwood dealer, thickness will be measured in quarters... 4/4 = 1", 8/4 = 2", etc. Alleric posted:So I NEED a joiner or a planar to get pieces into some uniformity for building things? Not necessarily. Ideally you'll want a planer and jointer some day but you can work around it. dja98 posted:...S2S (Surfaced 2 Sides) meaning that they have already planed the lumber flat. I'm being nitpicky here but since these guys aren't familiar with buying lumber and may interpret "flat" incorrectly. S2S means the faces are parallel and hopefully free of cup, but they could still have twist, bow or other defects.
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Jun 21, 2011 03:34
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I have been having a hell of a time cutting these dovetails. My biggest problem is that I have no way of securing anything so that it won't move, so I guess I need some kind of work table with a heavy rear end vice grip? I keep trying to look at this project as a learning experience, but I am not happy that I won't be able to finish it before my girlfriend gets home from vacation :/
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Jun 21, 2011 09:19
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In Norway they have given up selling wood as 2x4" and so on. A part of it is because the imperial system is seldom or never used and people complained that adjusted boards were off spec. So now we have accurate measurements in mm and specified if it's planed (adjusted). I learned to think in imperial dimensions from my father and think it's easier to quickly see if stuff is 2, 4, 6, 8 inches and so on. Other than that the imperial system loving sucks and I feel sorry for you lot having to use it on a daily basis.
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Jun 21, 2011 09:22
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Iskariot what size do your sheet goods come in? I've seen 5'x5' sheets before from europe..
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Jun 21, 2011 12:59
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Isaac Asimov posted:I have been having a hell of a time cutting these dovetails. My biggest problem is that I have no way of securing anything so that it won't move, so I guess I need some kind of work table with a heavy rear end vice grip? I keep trying to look at this project as a learning experience, but I am not happy that I won't be able to finish it before my girlfriend gets home from vacation :/ How exactly are you sawing now? I'm surprised you're able to get the accuracy you've got if you're sort of holding with one hand, sawing the other. It will definitely be faster and much safer if you have something that confidently holds your workpiece still while you saw. Most people's first vice will be the kind that mounts on to a bench-top with a few screws. If you have a table that can accommodate, that should be a great start, and you can use it for other stuff too. A reasonable starter should pop up on CraigsList for $20 or so.
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Jun 21, 2011 17:19
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Iskariot posted:In Norway they have given up selling wood as 2x4" and so on. A part of it is because the imperial system is seldom or never used and people complained that adjusted boards were off spec. So now we have accurate measurements in mm and specified if it's planed (adjusted). I learned to think in imperial dimensions from my father and think it's easier to quickly see if stuff is 2, 4, 6, 8 inches and so on. Other than that the imperial system loving sucks and I feel sorry for you lot having to use it on a daily basis. So is a 4x8 of plywood like 1219mm by 2438 mm? If so, then the conversion is stupid. If not, then how do you repair older houses? Besides, my car makes 3181 furlongs to the bushel of gasoline and I like it that way damnit.
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Jun 22, 2011 01:08
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Cobalt60 posted:How exactly are you sawing now? I'm surprised you're able to get the accuracy you've got if you're sort of holding with one hand, sawing the other. I was sandwiching a board between two stacked large pelican cases full of heavy stuff, but not heavy enough and the board was the opposite of how you would be able to position it on a vice. This led to enough vibration to make any saw I used incredibly inefficient, plus I had to saw with one hand and steady the board with another. ughhhhhh. I'm checking craigslist for small work tables and I need to get a bunch of clamps since I have a bunch of boards that will need to be glued. My girlfriend gets home tomorrow so I'm taking a day or two off, then I'm going to move all this stuff to her garage, which should make things much easier. I didn't work on any cutting yesterday, but I did carve this ring for my lady:    Its drying from its second coat of tung oil(got dirty from the recommended steel wool usage  ). I sanded it with my dremel and some fine sandpaper, dusted it off, then covered the dremel sander thing with a piece of a t-shirt to polish it up some, which worked really well
Isaac Asimov fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jun 22, 2011 |
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Jun 22, 2011 01:32
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Isaac Asimov posted:
While I was stuck working in my apartment, the first thing I bought was a small vise, some C-clamps and some F-clamps. You can attach the vise to a peice of wood, then securely clamp the wood to pretty much any solid table or free surface. When you're done it can be easily stored. On top of that, you can NEVER have too many clamps.
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Jun 22, 2011 01:35
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Skinny Bins posted:On top of that, you can NEVER have too many clamps. Good idea with the temporary workstation. vvv kk, I'll look around, thanks. Isaac Asimov fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Jun 22, 2011 |
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Jun 22, 2011 01:42
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You could try and find a Black and Decker Workmate. The whole table top can be a clamp and it folds up when not being used. Pretty sturdy little portable bench all around.
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Jun 22, 2011 01:49
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Anyone care to review/critique my idea for a front load washer/dryer stand? I have an area about 8' wide for a laundry room. My plan now is to get a pressure treated 6"x6" and cut it to 6 2' or 2.5' lengths, maybe slightly taller. 1 post in each corner, 2 in the middle. Secure them with 2"x4"s to keep them solid. Get a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4 plywood, cut it to 32" deep, drop it on top of the underlying 6"x6" structure I just built. Secure the whole thing with wood screws. Maybe put a piece of molding or something along the front to dress it up and them paint it all white. Maybe some laminate flooring on top of the plywood, and some rubber footings on the bottom of the 6"x6"s to keep it steady on the floor. Do you think this will be sturdy enough to support a washer and dryer?
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Jun 22, 2011 03:59
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Thumposaurus posted:You could try and find a Black and Decker Workmate. Reiterating this, the workmate is a solid little platform.
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Jun 22, 2011 04:12
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DJCobol posted:Anyone care to review/critique my idea for a front load washer/dryer stand? That sounds pretty overbuilt, which isn't necessarily a bad thing other than 6x6s cost a lot. I'd just use normal 4x4s or 2 2x4s in an 'L,' and pressure treatment wouldn't be necessary (I assume you were just going to use PT because that's all you could find 6x6s in). Pressure treated lumber checks a lot as it dries and doesn't look too great, not to mention it will corrode fasteners. You could use 3/4" particle board with melamine on both sides, that'd look nice. I think it's $36 per 4x8' sheet and melamine edge banding is like $6.
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Jun 22, 2011 04:19
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I was using pressure treated since it was going to be around water (washer leaks, floor mopping, wet shoes, etc). According to lowes.com the price for the 6"x6" isn't that much more then the 4"x4". When you consider what pedestals cost, I'm still saving a lot and get more functionality.
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Jun 22, 2011 05:38
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DJCobol posted:Do you think this will be sturdy enough to support a washer and dryer? And your car. This seems similar to what you're planning. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_pqYhKsjEc
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Jun 22, 2011 07:05
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Archives posted:So is a 4x8 of plywood like 1219mm by 2438 mm? If so, then the conversion is stupid. If not, then how do you repair older houses? We use CC60 for studs here so there are 60 cm between studs. It all fits perfectly and I think a shipment of imperial measured boards would lay to rot if it ever was imported. If you had asked for anything in feet the shop would probably have given you a blank stare and taken roughly 3 feet in a meter. Our usage of inches in construction is just quaint, not professionally used. What makes me rage at the imperial system is that it's not a decimal system and for some god-forsaken reason someone figured bringing fractions into smaller-than-1 measurements was a good idea. Hint: It wasn't. When you're not used to this you have to ponder what the hell a nut size is in imperial. I never ever guess right from numbers, sometimes by judging visual size. Oh and those tiny differences that you don't notice until you've screwed a bolt in enough that it's causing problems and you see on the head that it's in inches. The threaded hole is metric. Or was. Now it's ruined. So yeah, you guys should make this happen. I tell you it's really neat.
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Jun 22, 2011 09:24
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DJCobol posted:I was using pressure treated since it was going to be around water (washer leaks, floor mopping, wet shoes, etc). According to lowes.com the price for the 6"x6" isn't that much more then the 4"x4". When you consider what pedestals cost, I'm still saving a lot and get more functionality. Do yourself (and your house) a favor and get one of those washer pans to put the washer on. That way if it overflows, it doesn't cause a ton of damage. Plus any incidental spillage gets drained away and you can use regular lumbar for your riser. I'd attach it to your floor if possible - you want as stable of a surface as possible so they don't vibrate off it.
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Jun 22, 2011 11:24
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wormil posted:And your car. Awesome, extra parking spaces then! That is pretty much exactly what I plan on building. Didn't think about running 2"x4"s from front to back, I'll have to add a few. LordOfThePants posted:Do yourself (and your house) a favor and get one of those washer pans to put the washer on. That way if it overflows, it doesn't cause a ton of damage.
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Jun 22, 2011 13:51
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Iskariot posted:I haven't worked that much with sheets but it's metric, yes. 1200x2400 or so. I don't think there ever was an active usage of the imperial system, it was just the go-to system since it's easier to glance at something and come up with rough measurements in inches rather than millimeters. This created havoc when Swedes started making their own "2x4" (45x96mm IIRC) where the norm was 48x98 (adjusted). You can still go down to the shop and ask for "2-inch-4", which just slang, but they usually correct it to millimeters to avoid errors and direct you to metric measured wood. Pretty sure you'd be living in a cave before you'll ever be able to force the American construction industry into metric, but that is beside the point, cut lumber is adjusted (I had always assumed this was to correct for sheathing, drywall or exterior), but sheeting comes in advertised sizes, give or take a 1/16th.
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Jun 23, 2011 05:52
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Well my war on scrap White Ash and Oak is nearing the end. I'm running out of the flooring remnants that my parents and I used to redo their living room, entrance way and hallway. We cut down and dried the Ash and Oak ourselves and milled it on our portable sawmill. Although we have two planers, we sent it away to a local mill to have it made into "tongue and groove" flooring. I've been working away on the scraps left over to make bed frames, picture frames, shaving brush holders, and a host of other things. My latest two creations. (excuse crappy cell phones pics [click for bigger]) (on top) Japanese style lamp. I am going to buy a bulb holder and mount it inside and get my mom to cut me 4 panes of translucent glass. She does stained glass so I defer to her expertise.  It's a mix of White Ash and Oak with a few coats of Tung Oil. The little knob is cherry that I spun on a lathe. And a Go board on the bottom. It's made of White ash as well. I sanded the hell out of it, then applied two coats of Polyeurathane to it. Then I used a fine tipped sharpie to draw the lines on it. I still have two or three more coats to apply over the lines to make sure they don't rub off.  
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Jun 24, 2011 01:10
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I'm going to be in need of a new dresser soon and I'm wondering if any of you have experience building a dresser. I'm looking for ideas on plans, and the internal structure of the unit. I'm not looking for anything too fancy. I like clean, square edges - more of a modern look.
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Jun 25, 2011 21:58
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jvick posted:I'm going to be in need of a new dresser soon and I'm wondering if any of you have experience building a dresser. I'm looking for ideas on plans, and the internal structure of the unit. I'm not looking for anything too fancy. I like clean, square edges - more of a modern look. Dresser plans are fairly common, Illustrated Cabinetmaking has several, Wood has featured quite a few over the years, I'm sure Taunton will have some. Here are some free plans: http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?cat=677
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Jun 26, 2011 01:10
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Found someone with a hundred year old maple tree they had to cut down. Went by and grabbed a few logs for free. Truck of wood! It's a bit pithy in places, but I just cut logs down until any rot started to diminish, and then stopped there. That way, any splitting will occur in the parts of the logs I don't want. At least for the longer logs. For the shorter ones, I'm just going to turn them down tomorrow and see what I can get out of them. It's all intended for turning on the lathe, I think I'll have reasonable luck. Even in a worst-case scenario, I can just take either side of each log and use them for bowl blanks. And in any event, it's excellent wood to practice with, since it cost me $0.
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Jun 29, 2011 04:55
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We're pulling down some old Fir posts and beams from a jobsite, and replacing them with steel beams. 6x6 posts and 6x10 beams. They are in descent condition minus a few drywall nails and Romex staples. How feasible is it to get 1x2-3" planks out of these? I was thinking of making some rips with my circ saw, then passing them through a table saw to straighten out the sides. Is it worth the effort? I'm a rough carpenter / paint grade finisher, not a woodworker, but I want to start making some furniture and don't have the cash for the nice wood you guys are using.
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Jun 29, 2011 15:27
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Reggie Died posted:We're pulling down some old Fir posts and beams from a jobsite, and replacing them with steel beams. 6x6 posts and 6x10 beams. They are in descent condition minus a few drywall nails and Romex staples. Ideally you'd want them resawn with a bandsaw, plane and joint them. I have resawn wood with my tablesaw and it was a pain although that was maple which is considerably harder than fir. You'll want to make a lot of very shallow cuts, just increasing the blade depth maybe 1/2" at a time. Having an idea of how much work is involved I don't know that I would tackle it with a circular + table saws but salvaging that old fir is a noble effort.
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Jun 30, 2011 00:02
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wormil posted:Ideally you'd want them resawn with a bandsaw, plane and joint them. I have resawn wood with my tablesaw and it was a pain although that was maple which is considerably harder than fir. You'll want to make a lot of very shallow cuts, just increasing the blade depth maybe 1/2" at a time. Having an idea of how much work is involved I don't know that I would tackle it with a circular + table saws but salvaging that old fir is a noble effort. Well worst case scenario I'll use the posts as landscape ties, wrap the hidden side with paper or something. The beams I was really hoping to make use of. 1/2" cuts to reduce tension/probabilty of binding, or reduce wear on blade, or? Quick non-related question. I was going to make a small coffee table and entertainment unit out of cheap fir or cedar. 2x material. I probably won't use 2x4, but is there any advantage of using wider material? I'm always fearful of 2x12's cupping more drastically vs 2x6's or something.
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Jun 30, 2011 02:37
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Reggie Died posted:Well worst case scenario I'll use the posts as landscape ties, wrap the hidden side with paper or something. The beams I was really hoping to make use of. As wormil stated, your best solution is a bandsaw. I would recommend finding someone who has one and convince the, to let you use it. It's easier and safer than using a table saw. The table saw will also be harder to use if the pieces aren't very straight to begin with. Any way you cut it, make sure to break out the pieces with plenty of extra meat on them so that you can mill them straight afterward. I just got done a job using reclaimed fir and there was a lot of tension in the wood which made for some serious jointing and planing. As far as the table/unit question goes, I would suggest not using single pieces wider than 6".
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Jun 30, 2011 04:05
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