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I went and got a doorknob today and when I took out the old one, I realized that the door didn't have an indentation for the plate of the doorknob. I unfortunately don't have power tools (I'm not even sure how I'd create that indentation to be honest even if I did have power tools) so basically my new shiny doorknob doesn't really fit in my door. Is there anyway to remove that plate on the knob so that I don't need an indentation? I'd like to believe there is as included in the packaging is a metal circle (cut in half to form two pieces) that looks like it could go perfectly over the latch bit. Any help from you kindly goons?
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Jun 22, 2011 22:09
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:How do you know it was PVC? In my experience there's two major types of PVC. Type I is chemically resistant and commonly used in plumbing and other applications. Type II is impact resistant and used for structural applications. For your purposes I doubt it would matter which you use. It says so on his site (and a couple other websites that reported on it). I need to build a skeletal structure out of another non-rigid material (which I haven't figured out, yet). The PVC would then be fused / fastened to that base skeletal structure, effectively serving as a skin.
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Jun 22, 2011 22:37
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Hoping this is an appropriate thread for this question. I bought one of those cheap "Psycho" shower curtains off Amazon. It was 5 bucks, very low quality, but I use it outside of my liner and it's badass, although cheesy. The blood smears are so bright red they're almost pink. Still, no matter. I love it. I bought a cheap white bath rug to make my own matching design, instead of buying one of the corresponding ones off Amazon for $15 or more. I need to know what kind of paint would be best for dripping onto it. I might even need to mix a red and a brown to make it look more like real blood. Or should I just make my own fake blood? I'm looking for the cheapest options. Someone told me acrylic paint, but isn't that thick, kinda like the puff paint? Is fabric paint different from acrylic paint? What kind would stay vivid, even if I had to wash the rug?
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Jun 23, 2011 00:52
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Master_Odin posted:I went and got a doorknob today and when I took out the old one, I realized that the door didn't have an indentation for the plate of the doorknob. I unfortunately don't have power tools (I'm not even sure how I'd create that indentation to be honest even if I did have power tools) so basically my new shiny doorknob doesn't really fit in my door. Is there anyway to remove that plate on the knob so that I don't need an indentation? I'd like to believe there is as included in the packaging is a metal circle (cut in half to form two pieces) that looks like it could go perfectly over the latch bit. Do you mean there's no cutout on the door for the latch, or the latch plate on the door frame? If it's a wood door or frame, you can just cut the wood out with a hammer and chisel.
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Jun 23, 2011 01:24
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Already Bored posted:It says so on his site (and a couple other websites that reported on it). Interesting concept. How thick is the PVC? Is it a PVC tarp that's filled with air?
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Jun 23, 2011 01:40
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Interesting concept. How thick is the PVC? Is it a PVC tarp that's filled with air? The sculpture in the image I linked to is a PVC tarp filled with air, yes. You can actually go inside it, too. For my own project I wouldn't be inflating it. I'm not sure how thick it was but you can see more images here. Do you have any suggestions for a strong, cheap, non-rigid material I could use to create a skeleton? Something that doesn't require welding or industrial adhesives to construct together.
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Jun 23, 2011 02:42
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kid sinister posted:Do you mean there's no cutout on the door for the latch, or the latch plate on the door frame? If it's a wood door or frame, you can just cut the wood out with a hammer and chisel.  Thanks anyway.
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Jun 23, 2011 03:03
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whatshesaid posted:Hoping this is an appropriate thread for this question. I bought one of those cheap "Psycho" shower curtains off Amazon. It was 5 bucks, very low quality, but I use it outside of my liner and it's badass, although cheesy. The blood smears are so bright red they're almost pink. Still, no matter. I love it. What kind of mat is it? Is it fluffy or flatwoven? Synthetic or natural fibers? Paint of any kind will clump the fibers of a fluffy rug. Acrylic will stay vivid but it might start to crack with washing; decent quality fabric paint should be ok on boths counts but it will still look, well, painted on. If your going for realism some kind of dye might be best, as it will soak into the fibers. Fabric dye is expensive, maybe food colouring? I know I've ruined many a white tshirt with red food colouring. Dye might not take on synthetic fibers though, so read the label on your mat first. Ed; If you want to make it really cool for cheap, you could try embroidering it! That would probably look the nicest, but it wouldn't be particularly realistic. Also "even if I had to wash the rug" ?. For God's sake please wash your bath mat regularly. Feet. Damp. Mould. Fungus! 
Big Hairy Wah fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jun 24, 2011 |
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Jun 24, 2011 13:06
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Already Bored posted:The sculpture in the image I linked to is a PVC tarp filled with air, yes. You can actually go inside it, too. For my own project I wouldn't be inflating it. Well skeletons are rigid by definition, so I'm not sure exactly what you're going for here. I mean if the "skin" is thin PVC (most tarps are only a few thousandths of an inch thick) then you would need something rigid to stretch the skin over and give it shape. Or do you mean a flexible material that you could bend into unusual shapes and allow it's natural elasticity to keep the shape? Like bending a springy piece of metal? If I had to guess I'd say that what the artist did was use CAD to create an inflated shape that he then had custom cut out of strips of PVC material. It's probably somewhat thicker than a tarp in order to preserve the shape and mitigate the possibility of leaks. The artist then had the strips welded together (probably a thermal weld, although a really good solvent weld might work) and the structure was pressurized.
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Jun 24, 2011 15:38
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I am getting blackout roller shades for my apartment. I apparently have a choice of several materials, including at least 4-ply vinyl and other normal/designer fabrics. The vinyl ones are cheaper. Are there any functional differences? Or is it just look?
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Jun 24, 2011 16:16
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Vehementi posted:I am getting blackout roller shades for my apartment. I apparently have a choice of several materials, including at least 4-ply vinyl and other normal/designer fabrics. The vinyl ones are cheaper. Are there any functional differences? Or is it just look? They're all the same. The only reason you'd get different colors or material is purely aesthetic.
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Jun 24, 2011 17:07
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Well skeletons are rigid by definition, so I'm not sure exactly what you're going for here. I mean if the "skin" is thin PVC (most tarps are only a few thousandths of an inch thick) then you would need something rigid to stretch the skin over and give it shape. Or do you mean a flexible material that you could bend into unusual shapes and allow it's natural elasticity to keep the shape? Like bending a springy piece of metal? Yeah I could use a malleable metal that is capable of being bent into shape. It really comes down to needing a material I can manipulate easily without requiring industrial grade tools. If it's rigid but easy to manipulate and mold then that's fine by me. I was thinking of stretching the PVC across the skeleton in multiple parts (rather than using one giant skin) and then adhering it to the skeleton with some kind of liquid adhesive. It's all a lot of trial and error at this point though as I know very little about a lot of the materials I'm talking about. Edit: Would tin work? Its malleable and cheap. Can it hold much weight? Already Bored fucked around with this message at 17:38 on Jun 24, 2011 |
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Jun 24, 2011 17:16
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Already Bored posted:Edit: Would tin work? Its malleable and cheap. Can it hold much weight? Probably not. I wouldn't.
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Jun 24, 2011 21:34
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I just finished stripping wallpaper and now it's time to paint. Unfortunately the wallpaper didn't die easy so there are quite a few spots where a layer of paint was scraped off like so: Can I just prime and paint over the spots (which are a 1-2 inches wide, for scale) or do they need do be spackled?
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Jun 24, 2011 22:27
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Big Hairy Wah posted:advice Thanks! haha the washing part was...I guess I worded it wrong. I meant "in the event of washing," I guess, rather than "if" I wash it. I definitely will! Right now I just use towels, because they can be washed so easily. I change them out every week or so. I'll try not to wash a rug quite that frequently because I imagine they'd fall apart pretty quickly, and that would also at least fade the paint. Anyway, it's 100% cotton. It's...fairly flat, matted down, but it has some stupid raised patterns on it, but it's still all white. Nothing super fluffy. And it's cheap, not good quality. I didn't even think of fabric dye, actually! But my plan was to just drip it out of the bottle to make it look like drops of blood, and I don't think I could do that with dye?
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Jun 25, 2011 01:16
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I want to install some network cable in my townhome so I can run everything out of a closet downstairs. I just poked my head up into the attic to take a look at what I am dealing with and I have a few preliminary questions that are probably super basic. I feel like I've seen this topic has come up before but I searched through the last 2 years and I couldn't find anything. What is okay to put my body weight on? Obviously the areas where it is just ceiling are going to be bad, but is anything with wood pretty safe for me to crawl on? Am I at any risk of burning my house down if I am just running network cables and maybe coax and I avoid any sections of walls (between studs) that have electrical wires? I've done a bit of reading elsewhere and I am pretty sure I can figure out how to fish the wire out through the wall, but being mobile in the attic and finding the right place to drill is what is confusing me a bit. Also, since I am going from the 2nd floor down to the first floor, is it likely that I will have to cut a hole in the drywall somewhere near the floor so I can drill another hole to drop down to the first floor? Also how do I kill the spiders in my attic 3:
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Jun 25, 2011 02:01
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gingrich posted:I just finished stripping wallpaper and now it's time to paint. Unfortunately the wallpaper didn't die easy so there are quite a few spots where a layer of paint was scraped off like so: You can just prime and paint but there will be a noticeable lip where the paint spots meet. You can either scrape all the paint off (ughhh) or use joint compound or the like to feather that edge
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Jun 25, 2011 04:06
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IratelyBlank posted:I want to install some network cable in my townhome so I can run everything out of a closet downstairs. I just poked my head up into the attic to take a look at what I am dealing with and I have a few preliminary questions that are probably super basic. I feel like I've seen this topic has come up before but I searched through the last 2 years and I couldn't find anything. First off, if you're working in your attic this time of year, do it EARLY in the morning or at night. You don't want to pass out up there from the afternoon heat. Step on the wood joists in your attic. If you step between them, you'll make a you-sized hole in the ceiling. You might want to bring up a board or two long enough to span at least 2 joists so that you'll have a place to sit if the situation demands it. You won't burn down your townhouse with that low voltage stuff. When you're drilling down into a wall void, look for the cap board of the wall. It should be pretty easy to find, just look for a long 2x4 along where that wall should be. One way to easily find where along that cap to drill down is to poke a thick wire like a clothes hanger up through the ceiling drywall nearby, long enough to rise above the insulation. Find that wire in the attic and you'll know where to drill down. Patching a hole that small in the ceiling drywall is super easy anyway. Running from attic to first floor is another story. They do make 4 to 6 foot drill bits with flexible shafts, along with flexible shaft extensions. As long as you don't lose your grip on the shaft as you remove it from the drill while adding the extension, you'll be fine. You can use those same bits and extensions to pull a wire back up to the attic. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jun 25, 2011 |
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Jun 25, 2011 04:55
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whatshesaid posted:Thanks! haha the washing part was...I guess I worded it wrong. I meant "in the event of washing," I guess, rather than "if" I wash it. I definitely will! Right now I just use towels, because they can be washed so easily. I change them out every week or so. I'll try not to wash a rug quite that frequently because I imagine they'd fall apart pretty quickly, and that would also at least fade the paint. Sorry I didn't mean to be snarky  I just have a thing about toe mushrooms. Bad experience with an old house mate.You could just make up the dye then put it in a bottle with a dropper. Or mix it in a bowl or something, dip an old toothbrush in then draw your finger across the bristles (wear gloves if you don't want red hands). That would give a realistic splatter effect. I made a 'bloody' cake for a friend once and just dipped the tines of a fork in some food colouring and shook the fork over the cake, that worked quite well.
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Jun 25, 2011 10:47
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Already Bored posted:Yeah I could use a malleable metal that is capable of being bent into shape. Tin's fairly expensive and won't hold its shape. You could consider a platic with a low softening temperature like styrene, something that you could soften with a heat gun or an oven and then form into shape with your hands. Wear gloves while you do it. Another option would be to consider casting. Depending on the size of the application you could cut molds out of styrofoam, spray with a mold release agent, and then pour in a urethane or resin compound. Might get expensive though. There's always wood. It's cheap, easily cut with consumer tools, and is rigid. It wouldn't be too hard to cut a form out of a piece of plywood and then use a router to make multiple copies of the shape to make multiple ribs. For the skin a heat-shrink application would be cool. Something like what's being described in this link. Apparently PVC film will shrink when heat between 200F and 275F is applied to it. If you visit McMaster and search for "Heat Shrink" you'll find some other plastics. Experiment!
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Jun 25, 2011 15:30
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kid sinister posted:When you're drilling down into a wall void, look for the cap board of the wall. It should be pretty easy to find, just look for a long 2x4 along where that wall should be. One way to easily find where along that cap to drill down is to poke a thick wire like a clothes hanger up through the ceiling drywall nearby, long enough to rise above the insulation. Find that wire in the attic and you'll know where to drill down. Patching a hole that small in the ceiling drywall is super easy anyway. Before poking holes: While you're up in the attic, pull back any insulation & follow the electrical wire from the ceiling fixture (light)...you'll see junction boxes for them...if you turn the light on, you may see the light leaking through the box. follow the wire; it'll drop down to the light switches. Where it drops is the wall void!
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Jun 26, 2011 23:56
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In my garage I have this: Nothing I own fits this kind of outlet... not even sure what would plug into something like that. But it's located right where I sure could use a regular, run-of-the-mill wall outlet to plug my boombox into. Is it possible to just swap that outlet out with a regular outlet? Or is that something an electrician would be more qualified to change?
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Jun 29, 2011 03:02
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Ballz posted:In my garage I have this: That's a 220V outlet. You might be able to use it for a welder or some other piece of heavy equipment. You may also be able to find a power supply for your boombox. Either way, don't swap it with a 110V outlet.
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Jun 29, 2011 04:43
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sund posted:That's a 220V outlet. You might be able to use it for a welder or some other piece of heavy equipment. You may also be able to find a power supply for your boombox. Either way, don't swap it with a 110V outlet. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:19 on Jun 29, 2011 |
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Jun 29, 2011 05:09
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I have a husqvarna 142 e chainsaw and the stupid chain flies off everytime I try to use the loving thing. It coils up and gets off the bar, in the process the gripping teeth get all pinged up and ruin the chain. I've tried this with a couple chains now. The chain is set nice and tight with maybe a few links worth of play. I don't understand why the gently caress this keeps happening. Could it be a bent bar?
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Jun 29, 2011 16:02
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sund posted:That's a 220V outlet. You might be able to use it for a welder or some other piece of heavy equipment. You may also be able to find a power supply for your boombox. Either way, don't swap it with a 110V outlet. Electric clothes dryer is probably the most common residential usage for 220V. That or electric oven, but you wouldn't put that in your garage.
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Jun 29, 2011 16:12
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peepsalot posted:Electric clothes dryer is probably the most common residential usage for 220V. That or electric oven, but you wouldn't put that in your garage. True, but that's not a dryer plug. A dryer is 30A 220 with neutral (NEMA 14-30), that's a NEMA 6-15. Likely there's no neutral in there so you can't swap it to supply 110.
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Jun 29, 2011 17:33
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Sylink posted:I have a husqvarna 142 e chainsaw and the stupid chain flies off everytime I try to use the loving thing. Sounds like it, or the adjuster isn't sitting right and the drive sprocket is forcing the chain off.
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Jun 29, 2011 18:30
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So, I have a condo (renting) that appears to at one point had the garage finished so it was 2 AC Registers and a return in there. At later point it was returned back to garage duty and it appears they just shoved some cardboard in behind the vents and closed them. Now that it appears I'm going to be here for at least another year I'd like SOMETHING to minimize the amount of AC I'm wasting out to my car. I've looked around and I can't find the product I think should exist: A solid and insulated register & return that I can replace the standard vent register with. Everyone wants to sell me magnetic covers which while looking nice are for keeping air out of the vent (from the room) not air in the vent (from the pipe). Any ideas or links?
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Jun 29, 2011 19:19
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kid sinister posted:Technically it's possible, it depends on the existing wiring. What color wires are there behind that outlet? White, red and black. For what it's worth, my house is over 50 years old, and there's a decent chance that outlet's been there for ages. Are there adapters out there that go from 220V to 110?
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Jun 30, 2011 00:36
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Ballz posted:White, red and black. For what it's worth, my house is over 50 years old, and there's a decent chance that outlet's been there for ages. Are there adapters out there that go from 220V to 110?
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Jun 30, 2011 04:51
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Ballz posted:White, red and black. For what it's worth, my house is over 50 years old, and there's a decent chance that outlet's been there for ages. Are there adapters out there that go from 220V to 110? There are, but not for NEMA 6-15. Borrow yourself a circuit tester. They're $1-2 if you can't find one to borrow. Stick one of the probes in either one of the slots and fish it around until you get it between the blade clamps. Take the other probe and touch it against a bare, unpainted, dust-free section of that steel box. If the tester lights up, then that section of conduit is grounded. If so, you can just cap off the red and use a self-grounding outlet. If not, you would have to run a 14 gauge ground wire from the panel out to that box. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 05:43 on Jun 30, 2011 |
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Jun 30, 2011 05:32
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How do I fix a terrible paint job? http://www.dropbox.com/gallery/14655858/1/paint?h=197208 This is what the walls look like all over our house. Huge globs of paint drips, chunks of dust and debris; it's a terrible job throughout. I know basically how to prep a "normal" surface to be painted, but I am not sure where to start here. I can sand all the chunks off, but those paint drips are a giant pain. What do I do to remove them? I want to belt-sand these walls.
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Jun 30, 2011 17:33
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Kaluza-Klein posted:How do I fix a terrible paint job? It sucks, but the best way to fix a paint bump/mess like that is sanding and touch-up painting. I've got a whole bathroom that looks like that. I've been putting off that chore for a while. If someone has a better suggestion, I'm all ears as well.
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Jun 30, 2011 17:44
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Im no paint expert but I would use a sanding screen and scraper/taping knife. And if it really is everywhere like that I would scrape any chunks and sand the entire area. Then prime it, and sand that lightly too. Then repaint.
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Jun 30, 2011 17:46
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emocrat posted:Im no paint expert but I would use a sanding screen and scraper/taping knife. And if it really is everywhere like that I would scrape any chunks and sand the entire area. Then prime it, and sand that lightly too. Then repaint. Yeah, scraper is working decently on the big drips, but it is hard to get it to pop off the smaller/flatter drips. Sanding is just taking the sheen off. Maybe a grittier paper is in order. Do I really need to prime it all? Normally you can paint over without priming, right? Is it just because I will be sanding a lot of it so heavily? The home is not too old, as far as I can tell there is maybe one layer under the top one. Part of my reluctance against priming is that I am doing the entire house (ceilings and all), so that would add considerably to the expense. What a mess.
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Jun 30, 2011 17:55
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Gotcha, No you probly don't need to prime. The reason I suggest it is three-fold. First it helps when changing colors. Second, I find that I need at least 2 coats to get a good look, and if 1 coat is primer and 1 paint, thats cheaper than 2 coats of paint. Finally, primer sands easier/better than paint so lightly running a sanding screen over a primed wall can really help get a more uniform flat surface. Again this is all just from my personal experience as a homeowner. Its entirely possible that having different/better technique or paint or tools would allow you to produce great results without the steps I have taken. Edit: The one other nice thing about priming is that if your priming everything it goes much faster. Inside corners you can just do with a big brush and you don't have to worry about masking anything off really. Just throw it up and and roll it out. emocrat fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jun 30, 2011 |
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Jun 30, 2011 18:03
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The entire house is the same colour at the moment, so I will finish un-butchering the walls in the WC and give it a go without primer. The current paint is all a super pale yellow, and the wife has picked out colours that are a bit more. . . agressive. I've usually had to do two coats as well, but this time when I was painting the ceilings I did very well with only a single coat. I am being super anal about this, so maybe that helps, but I think the real difference is the wife wanted Benjamin Moore colours/paint, and it seems to be a much nicer paint than I am used to. edit: What is the roughest sandpaper I can safely use on these walls? The 150 I have is not cutting it.
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Jun 30, 2011 18:16
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New homeowner here. We just moved into a house built in the 50s. We have a mix of two and three prong electrical outlets. The three prong outlet in our office was making my computer act strange, so we cut the power and looked at the outlet. Surprise! There's no ground wire, and it doesn't seem to be actually grounded. So the question is: Is there an easy/safe way to add a ground to this outlet, so that we can plug electronics into it? or should I just call an electrician to come deal with this?
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Jun 30, 2011 20:49
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Raviv posted:New homeowner here. We just moved into a house built in the 50s. We have a mix of two and three prong electrical outlets.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:01
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