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Bad Munki posted:Found someone with a hundred year old maple tree they had to cut down. Went by and grabbed a few logs for free. Truck of wood! I'm always too nervous to go ask people for wood when I see a tree getting cut down 
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Jun 30, 2011 13:33
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Well I figured I may as well show some of my work. I've just graduated in furniture design at De Montfort University. For my final project I built a compact kitchen that incorporates an expanding dining table and seating/storage.    I used Zebrano and American white ash veneer. I know it's not the most technically complex project, but I was focusing more on the idea of it being multifunctional 
athena fucked around with this message at 13:43 on Jun 30, 2011 |
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Jun 30, 2011 13:40
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MarshallX posted:I'm always too nervous to go ask people for wood when I see a tree getting cut down I found it on craigslist, just search for things like "firewood". Often, it'll come up as free. In this case, I just filled up my truck and in return I then spent a little bit of extra time cutting up some larger logs that the owner was having trouble moving around (single lady living out in the country.) She also had a sizeable pile of applewood in her barn. If I find myself in need of more wood in the future (yeah right) I might head back out there and get some more of the maple, and maybe try to beg some of the larger pieces of applewood off her. I hear that stuff turns awful nice. She also allegedly had some mulberry around, although I couldn't spot it in the pile I was working from. Guess I need to get to turning so I can run out of wood sooner! 
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Jun 30, 2011 15:29
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athena posted:Well I figured I may as well show some of my work. I've just graduated in furniture design at De Montfort University. For my final project I built a compact kitchen that incorporates an expanding dining table and seating/storage. That all looks very awesome and is super classy, some sort of modern-retro-chic. You should have gotten a pointy-boobed 50's gal in heels and a (calf-length!) red dress to pose in it, smiling as she prepared dinner. Well done!
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Jun 30, 2011 15:31
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Thanks That's exactly what I would have liked! They unfortunately made me pose in some of the photos which isn't as half as nice to look at.
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Jun 30, 2011 16:33
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I'm working my way through this thread right now, and boy does it make me want to go buy some tools. Anyone have a Rigid router?(http://www.homedepot.ca/product/ridgid-heavy-duty-2hp-router-combo-kit/913358#BVRRWidgetID). I'm looking to replace the hand me down Powerfirst router my boss gave me when he his new setup. It's fine cutting through MDF (which is all I've used it for), but it's not a plunge. Also looking to get a cheap cheap biscuit joiner. Ryobi any good?
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Jul 1, 2011 04:48
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Reggie Died posted:Also looking to get a cheap cheap biscuit joiner. Ryobi any good? Don't cheap out too much. Check some online reviews, ask a cabinetmaker, go to Home Depot and actually pick one up and handle it. My dad got a cheapo Mastercraft from Canadian Tire and sometimes it works perfectly, and other times I'm out by a few mm's. If you think you're going to use it a lot, make sure you get one that will last and do the job properly.
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Jul 1, 2011 08:10
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What's the general consensus on Shopsmith? Are they crappy versions of all the tools they replace or are they generally ok for hobbyists? I had to sell my tablesaw for a move and I'm looking for a replacement. There are three Mk V's on my local craigslist selling for $500, $1000, $1500 and I'm wondering if I'm better off just getting a straight tablesaw or if the Shopsmith is worthwhile.
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Jul 1, 2011 13:23
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dja98 posted:Kind of. If you buy from a big box store, almost certainly. Thanks for the info. I got hold of them a week or so ago; they have a shop in town. They quoted me 15/hr for millwork so I think for my first go around I'm going to have them rip the boards to the width I want and shore them up. Then I'm free to come home and work on what I can with the tools I have now. I'm hoping to get down there tomorrow morning.
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Jul 1, 2011 15:59
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Blistex posted:Don't cheap out too much. Check some online reviews, ask a cabinetmaker, go to Home Depot and actually pick one up and handle it. My dad got a cheapo Mastercraft from Canadian Tire and sometimes it works perfectly, and other times I'm out by a few mm's. I'm going to second this. There's nothing more frustrating than buying a tool (no matter how cheap) and finding out it doesn't work properly. A plate joiner won't do you any good if it's out by a 1/16" every time. Personally, I think the best brand for both a router and biscuit joiner is Porter Cable. They're solid, accurate and reliable. We use them in my shop and they've lasted a long time. They are pricey, but if you plan on using them a lot it's more than worth it. The other joiner I like is the DeWalt. We have two of those at the shop as well, and while they're not as solid as the PCs, they work relatively well and are usually cheaper. As far as the ryobi goes, I would steer clear unless you're planning on using it very little. I had to use one at another shop and while it did the job, the fence went out of alignment far too often for my liking.
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Jul 1, 2011 17:33
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Anyone have an opinion on shapers? There's a guy advertising a pretty new 3hp Grizzly shaper on Craigslist for about 50% of the new price and he's fairly close. I dont have a ton of room for it now, but it'd make a sweet fixed routing station. I could pick up the router bit spindle for $50 and use all my current bits without investing in shaper tooling. I've never used one before, but considering a variable speed 3.25 hp router is almost $300, if I could score this shaper for $500-600, I think it'd be a useful purchase.
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Jul 1, 2011 18:01
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kaiger posted:What's the general consensus on Shopsmith? Are they crappy versions of all the tools they replace or are they generally ok for hobbyists? I made a pretty in-depth post about mine way earlier in the thread. In short: -- They are truly great if your space is limited. Like, there's nothing competitive in this class. -- The table saw is often reviewed poorly. IMO, if set up really well, it's really great, but ONLY for smaller pieces. If you intend to rip full-size sheet goods, this is NOT the right tool. I'd say it's actually dangerous for that purpose, and it catches a ton of poo poo for that. -- The other big minus for the Tablesaw function is that the table tilts, not the arbor. This means a bit more setup for stuff like compound miters, and again, big pieces are simply a bad idea. -- The add-ons really make the machine. The bandsaw is really great, for a small-size bandsaw. The jointer is surprisingly useful -- it's 4 inches so it won't face-joint big boards, but once again it's basically ideal for smaller workpieces. Scrollsaw is pretty cool. The 12" planer is one of the best out there, but I have the stand-alone so I can't speak to the rail-mount version. -- The price difference you see is likely due to the versions. The 500 is basically the same model from the 60's, has a tiny table and fewer upgrade options. I'd recommend only buying a 510 or 520, but there's a price step-up. For reference I paid $250 for a 500, and $500 for a 510 with bandsaw, planer, jointer, and other attachments (!). -- It's like a lego or erector set, meaning you can really tweak it to your needs. Lots of the SS community do strange and wonderful mods. Here's a post on some of the DIY crap I've thrown at mine, mostly in search of ultimate accuracy and repeatability: http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthread.htm?t=7948 In summary, though, if the ONLY tool you need is a tablesaw, get a proper tool, like a Unisaw or something. If you want flexibility and the options of a big-boy shop in a tiny space, this thing is perfect. If you intend to always work with large sheet goods, don't even consider SS.
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Jul 1, 2011 19:16
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Reggie Died posted:Well worst case scenario I'll use the posts as landscape ties As you probably realize, Fir will not last very long untreated, maybe a year or two. athena posted:For my final project I built a compact kitchen that incorporates an expanding dining table and seating/storage. Looks fun. I can imagine myself using a kitchen like that in a small cabin. Reggie Died posted:Also looking to get a cheap cheap biscuit joiner. Ryobi any good? I bought the Porter Cable based on reviews at the time, it was killing everything else. It's the only one I've used but it is simple, flexible and gets the job done without complaint (by me).
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Jul 1, 2011 20:02
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Cobalt60 posted:Good stuff Thanks for the info. I missed your previous post, but I'll see if I can dig that up. I've got a track-system for my circular saw that I use for ripping large sheets anyway. I primarily use the tablesaw for times that I need to make repeat identical cuts off a fence or angled-cuts. The main things I foresee myself using the SS for is the tablesaw, bandsaw and drill-press.
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Jul 1, 2011 22:24
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wormil posted:I bought the Porter Cable based on reviews at the time, it was killing everything else. It's the only one I've used but it is simple, flexible and gets the job done without complaint (by me). To be honest, I've never used a biscuit before. I was only going to use it to join mitered edges, and my local Home Depot let's me return anythign and everything, so I think i'll try out the Ryobi. I'm looking to make a variation of this (http://www.crateandbarrel.com/furniture/media-stands-consoles/ascend-espresso-55%22-open-storage-unit/s119660) except longer and with 2 center supports, to give 3 cubby's. If I were to use 5.5" wide 5/4 planks, (probably 4, I want it 20" deep), would biscuit joints be enough to laminate them together? Or should I stick with my original inclination and dowel them together?
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Jul 1, 2011 23:23
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kaiger posted:Thanks for the info. I missed your previous post, but I'll see if I can dig that up. I've got a track-system for my circular saw that I use for ripping large sheets anyway. I primarily use the tablesaw for times that I need to make repeat identical cuts off a fence or angled-cuts. The main things I foresee myself using the SS for is the tablesaw, bandsaw and drill-press. Size-wise, it's a great bandsaw and best-in-class drill press, especially since there's so few woodworking-only presses anyway. Post if you need help shopping around, pricing, or setting it up. There's tons of great deals on the used market, it seems.
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Jul 2, 2011 01:04
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athena posted:Well I figured I may as well show some of my work. I've just graduated in furniture design at De Montfort University. For my final project I built a compact kitchen that incorporates an expanding dining table and seating/storage. Holy poo poo, I would live with this kitchen so, so very happily. Nicely done.
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Jul 2, 2011 02:15
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Hypnolobster posted:Holy poo poo, I would live with this kitchen so, so very happily. Nicely done. As someone who loves to cook this kitchen would suck to cook in. For someone that eats nothing but ramin it does kick rear end.
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Jul 2, 2011 03:05
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The lack of a gas stove would be annoying, but otherwise I cook for myself or 2 people most of the time and I would be totally okay with it.
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Jul 2, 2011 03:10
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Reggie Died posted:If I were to use 5.5" wide 5/4 planks, (probably 4, I want it 20" deep), would biscuit joints be enough to laminate them together? Or should I stick with my original inclination and dowel them together? They are primarily for alignment when edge gluing, you don't need either but I prefer biscuits because they are easier and have more applications.
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Jul 2, 2011 04:52
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Got myself a pen turning mandrel, so I've been playing with that. Wanted to give one of the nifty acrylic blanks a try, so i grabbed one and made a pen for my wife. She likes purple. The picture doesn't really do it justice, but the material is very nicely iridescent, except for the white bands, which are opaque, and can be seen through the purple and blue material, giving it a nice visual depth into the translucent layers. In general, I don't like working with acrylic, as it smells funny, makes a mess, and is generally brittle, but it sure does polish up nice, I'll give it that.
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Jul 2, 2011 18:30
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Bad Munki posted:
It does smell terrible, doesn't it? It's also prone to breaking out when drilling near the exit of the hole. Also, as you noticed, a picture that shows what it really looks like is (or seems to be) impossible to take. More difficult to sell them online. Reggie Died posted:To be honest, I've never used a biscuit before. I was only going to use it to join mitered edges, and my local Home Depot let's me return anythign and everything, so I think i'll try out the Ryobi. Biscuits would be nice for aligning during glue up, but I'd key the miters for strength if I were you.
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Jul 2, 2011 23:07
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Bad Munki posted:Got myself a pen turning mandrel, so I've been playing with that. Wanted to give one of the nifty acrylic blanks a try, so i grabbed one and made a pen for my wife. She likes purple. The picture doesn't really do it justice, but the material is very nicely iridescent, except for the white bands, which are opaque, and can be seen through the purple and blue material, giving it a nice visual depth into the translucent layers. According to the dude in the youtube video there are some 37,000 combinations available which is pretty awesome
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Jul 2, 2011 23:54
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Can we talk about acclimatization for a second? Assuming I buy some wood from an indoor/covered lumber yard and it doesn't get wet, should I just bring it inside for a few days? Should I cut the end of each board by 1/8" first? Rip all my lumber down to within an inch of what I need then leave it inside for a few days? Is there a substantial difference between soft and hard lumber? Whenever I finish a house my boss has the trim/flooring delivered a week early and let's it sit. That's unfortunately my only experience when it comes to acclimatizing wood, and I forgot to do it when I built my desk last year. Needless to say it's kinda hosed now and needs to be re done.
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Jul 3, 2011 18:09
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Reggie Died posted:Can we talk about acclimatization for a second? Assuming I buy some wood from an indoor/covered lumber yard and it doesn't get wet, should I just bring it inside for a few days? Should I cut the end of each board by 1/8" first? Rip all my lumber down to within an inch of what I need then leave it inside for a few days? Is there a substantial difference between soft and hard lumber? Things to think about. 1. What are you using this for? Trim, flooring, paneling, construction. 2. Where do you live? Country and State/Province. (need to know weather/moisture conditions) 3. What is the variety of wood you are using? Spruce, Maple, Ash, Cedar? Going to talk about flooring since this is easily the job where acclimatizing is the most important. When my dad did his flooring our of white ash he let it sit and dry in an outdoor shed for a few years, then he planed it, brought it into the house (during the summer) from early June until the end of August. Then he installed it. This flooring during the winter shrinks slightly (a mm or more) on each side, but that can't be helped with real wood. My floors are 83 years old (maple) and they still shrink and expand due to the higher moisture in the summer.
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Jul 5, 2011 14:16
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Actually got some woodworking done today, built a face frame and door for a cabinet... not very impressive but I haven't built anything in a while and it feels good to make sawdust again. Also, Kreg Jigs rock the house for face frames. Next up I'm wainscoating my dining room. http://www.hgtv.ca/hometostay/proj_1011.aspx wormil fucked around with this message at 07:09 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 8, 2011 07:07
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Any suggestions on books, websites, etc for hand milling lumber? I can't afford or justify a jointer and thickness planer at this point. I do have a router and table saw, and I picked up a smaller 9" hand plane the other day. I've seen some of the alternative techniques in the Wood Whisperer video #6 but I need something more detailed on how to use these tools to get nice flat, square boards.
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Jul 8, 2011 16:37
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I love that kitchen. Excellent work. What is the wood you've used, I really like the soft tone of it. SMALL ROOM BIG DESK; Help me please.. The room I use as my office is pretty small, and I'm hoping to fit a pretty big desk in by hanging it off the wall and doing without legs. This is what I've come up with so far, but I really have no clue on whether it will hold up. Two of the walls are external, so plasterboard on hollow blockwork. The other two, the ends, are unfortunately stud walls. Though the one at the cupboard end may have horizontal timber around about the right hight as part of the bulkhead framing, I need to investigate further. Assuming I can get decent fixings to the walls do you thing it will hold, or am I spanning too far? Also will the shorter length fix/hang on the longer pieces, or am I really going to need a leg at that point? Or have I got no chance? Or am I better off with angle brackets of some kind, rather than sitting the timbers on timber? Load will be typical desk load, elbows, monitors, laptop and the pc tower if it will take it. Painted plywood on top I think. Hopefully this makes sense and I haven't over complicated it. 
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Jul 8, 2011 17:55
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Cpt.Wacky posted:...but I need something more detailed on how to use these tools to get nice flat, square boards. Practice. I built a dining table from rough mahogany and hand planed the top smooth/flat. I expected it to be a disaster but it turned out very nice and took less time than I expected. I used a bench plane, ran it diagonally to flatten the top then planed with the grain to smooth things out. Ideally you'd want a scrub and jointer plane but I went with what I had. MeKeV posted:SMALL ROOM BIG DESK; Help me please.. I've done this several times in offices and suggest you buy a preformed countertop from your local big box hardware store. Attach a 2x2 or 2x4 to the walls studs at desk height and rest the back of the countertop on that. Then attach legs to the outside corners and maybe one or two in the middle. You can buy legs just for that or use 2x2s on the cheap. I have also used big rear end shelf brackets for the center so there wouldn't be legs in the way of rolling chairs. It will be strong enough for a grown man to walk on.
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Jul 9, 2011 08:09
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If I go for the L shape I'd rather do without legs at all if possible? But if I go for something like this and do without the return under the window, I could hang it off the wall on 3 sides, then have a leg about a foot* in from each end, the clear span on the front edge would be about 2m*. Will a 38mm thick laminate span that distance? Don't really know how strong they are. *(I'm English, mixing metric and imperial is what we do)
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Jul 10, 2011 13:09
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Anyone know anything about making your own chisels/gouges/plane blades? I tried making my own rabbeting plane with some scrap wood and a piece of square extruded steel which didn't work well at all. I figure I need to harden the steel somehow if I want the edge to last more than a few seconds. Just thought I'd see if anyone here has any pointers.
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Jul 10, 2011 16:47
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MeKeV posted:If I go for the L shape I'd rather do without legs at all if possible? Just made some similar a few months ago, shouldn't be a problem. We anchored it on 3 walls and used one leg on the outside corner. One wall had a filing cabinet which gave a good bit of support. If it doesn't feel sturdy enough, you can always add a large shelf bracket for additional support.
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Jul 11, 2011 08:08
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Cpt.Wacky posted:Any suggestions on books, websites, etc for hand milling lumber? I can't afford or justify a jointer and thickness planer at this point. I do have a router and table saw, and I picked up a smaller 9" hand plane the other day. I've seen some of the alternative techniques in the Wood Whisperer video #6 but I need something more detailed on how to use these tools to get nice flat, square boards. This is my method: Step 1: Cut your wood to rough size. Step 2: Plane one face flat. Start by planing diagonal to the grain (both ways, like an X pattern.)THis is just to get the board close to being flat. Once it's reasonably flat, switch to planing with the grain. To check the flatness, use the edge of a framing square or some other straight edge and place it on the board. Move it around the surface of the board, first checking parrallel to the grain, then across(also check diagonally periodically). make sure to check along the full length and width, making note of any high or low spots. Mark high spots with a pencil mark. Plane the higher portions down. Repeat this process until the board is flat. Double check that the surface is flat by placing it on a flat surface (such as a table saw,) and check if it wobbles. This won't show if there's dips in the middle, so be careful. Step 3: Square an edge. This takes some practice. Place the board up on edge in a vise or other clamping mechanism. Start planing the edge square with the newly flat face. Keep checking the edge as you plane, making sure its square. If it tends to be out of square one way, compensate by shifting how you hold the plane to the board. It's best to do full strokes along the edge to help keep it straight along the whole length. As you create a clean edge, make sure to put a straight edge up to it to check for dips and high spots. Some planes have a fence which can help make this process easier, but I find that with a bit of practice, it becomes unnecessary. Step 4: Make the opposite edge parallel. Since you have a table saw, you can cut down the piece to a rough width by putting your newly planed edge up against the fence and ripping it up. Leave a 1/16" (or less if you're feeling confident) to clean up the edge with a plane. Make sure to mark the final size so you don't plane too much off. Step 5: Plane to thickness. Using a marking gauge or some other accurate tool, mark your desired thickness around the whole piece, using the flat face as a reference. Follow the procedure in step 1 until you reach the mark around the whole board, checking for flatness the whole time. It's always best to get the face flat, then start shearing material off consistently so that you can confidently work your way to the desired thickness. Step 6: Cut to Length. Use your table saw and miter gauge to cut the ends square and to length. Notes: - Steps 3 and 4 can be done after step 5, I just find it easier to mark the edges when they're clean and even. - Make sure your plane is SHARP, like, REALLY SHARP. A dull blade is harder and more dangerous to use, plus it tends to rip out the wood and leave marks. This Guy has a pretty good grip on what is involved in sharpening blades. I can make a simple sharpening guide later if the site is too intense. -Make sure the bottom of your plane is flat. If it's not, your board never will be. Check for dents and burs. Hone minor defects down with a water/oil stone. -When running your plane along the surface, start by placing pressure on the front of the plane, and as you reach the end of the board move the pressure towards the rear. This helps maintain an even stroke and prevents the plane from taking off too much/little at the beginning and end of the stroke. -Pay attention to how you hold the plane. This helps you keep track of how to adjust yourself if you find that you're not getting even cuts or that your edges aren't coming out square. Hold it firmly, and use your fingers on the side of the work piece to help steady your stroke. -Use longer planes for larger surfaces. I cannot stress how much this method relies on patience and practice. You might get it right away, but if you don't, don't give up. Practice the entire method on some scraps or cheap pine. Once you get it down, then move on to projects that you actually want to get done right. Sorry for the wall of text. I meant to take some pictures to go along with this post, but I just haven't had time. If anything's unclear, let me know. It's 2 in the morning here, so this may all be gibberish. Skinny Bins fucked around with this message at 10:04 on Jul 11, 2011 |
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Jul 11, 2011 09:58
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Skinny Bins posted:Sorry for the wall of text. I meant to take some pictures to go along with this post, but I just haven't had time. If anything's unclear, let me know. It's 2 in the morning here, so this may all be gibberish. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
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Jul 11, 2011 17:09
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nobody- posted:Anyone know anything about making your own chisels/gouges/plane blades? I tried making my own rabbeting plane with some scrap wood and a piece of square extruded steel which didn't work well at all. I figure I need to harden the steel somehow if I want the edge to last more than a few seconds. Just thought I'd see if anyone here has any pointers. I can't help with actually making the blades, which I'd imagine to be difficult since blade metallurgy is unbelievably specific. Just replying to say that LN has some stuff available, including the ready-to-go grooving plane blades. http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=548
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Jul 11, 2011 20:56
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Skinny Bins posted:This is my method: Holy cow... alternately, you could talk to cabinetmakers or hardwood lumber shops about having them plane it for you (if you have a lot to do... otherwise I like the zen approach)
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Jul 12, 2011 03:14
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Guitarchitect posted:Holy cow... alternately, you could talk to cabinetmakers or hardwood lumber shops about having them plane it for you (if you have a lot to do... otherwise I like the zen approach) This is also an option. I know you're making a bit of fun with the "zen" comment, but there is very little in the realm of woodworking that is more satisfying than manually shaving down a piece of wood with a plane (other than putting together a perfectly cut set of dovetails...)
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Jul 12, 2011 07:01
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There is a show on PBS called Rough Cut that focuses on building projects starting from rough lumber to finished product. The host is kinda a tool but it is pretty interesting and helps illustrate some things.
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Jul 12, 2011 22:16
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Likewise, The American Woodshop is on PBS which has a very New Yankee Workshop flavor. I'm watching one off my DVR now, a Shaker inspired worktable that looks like it would tip over at the slightest bump. The feet though are similar to a Shaker table I built a few years ago so it will be interesting to see how does them. Edit: he built the feet similarly to me but attached them with dowels, of which I'm not a fan. I attached mine with pinned mortise and tenons, better would have been a sliding dovetail but oh well. wormil fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jul 13, 2011 |
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Jul 13, 2011 04:13
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wormil posted:Just made some similar a few months ago, shouldn't be a problem. We anchored it on 3 walls and used one leg on the outside corner. One wall had a filing cabinet which gave a good bit of support. If it doesn't feel sturdy enough, you can always add a large shelf bracket for additional support. Thanks for the pointers. Do you (or anyone else) think that worktop I posted will be good for 2m of clear span? I know when used in a kitchen they usually have support every 600mm or so. Ed: 2m on the front side, the back edge will be supported. MeKeV fucked around with this message at 06:14 on Jul 13, 2011 |
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Jul 13, 2011 06:02
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