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JP Money posted:1.5 miles Make sure you take it out on longer trips rather regularly, as it probably won't hit operating temp and cook off the water in the oil in this time.
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Jun 30, 2011 07:36
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I have just the right thing for a 1.5 miles commute Buy the KTM for fun and get a bicycle fo' reals. I don't know your riding habits but that's not enough mileage for me to even think about gearing up. By the time I got the motorbike ready, I'd be where I was going on the pedal bike.
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Jun 30, 2011 08:32
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Question about all that: seriously just how bad is it to commute a short distance to work on a bike? IE: I know a few people who ride GSXR's literally less than one mile to / from work.
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Jun 30, 2011 09:46
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quote:just how bad is it to commute a short distance to work on a bike? I tried it on the KTM for a couple of months and it killed the oil and the bike was never happy. You never get the oil up to a temperature where it can clear out the condensation. I now ride 5+ miles to work (I'll take a longer route if I have time) and the bike just runs so much better. JP Money posted:I mean it will be a commuter primarily. I only go like 1.5 miles though at in-town college town speeds so I'm not sure if the vibrations really matter. I'll probably be <50mph most of the time. The KTM (and probably the DRZ) will hate this and you will go through oil almost as fast as fuel. If you want to commute this kind of distance with a motor a two-stroke would be better. I'd just go with a sweet pushbike and only use the moto for longer trips or when you need to.
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Jun 30, 2011 10:40
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Fiendish Dr. Wu posted:Question about all that: seriously just how bad is it to commute a short distance to work on a bike? IE: I know a few people who ride GSXR's literally less than one mile to / from work. I commute 4 miles on surface streets to work. It almost seems pointless, as I can easily ride a bicycle the same distance in about 30 minutes versus driving/riding motorcycle there in about 15-20 minutes... But it's not pointless, because I'm riding a loving sumo and I look totally rad also all the chicks dig it.
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Jun 30, 2011 16:34
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Just because the commute is short doesn't mean it won't get taken on longer rides and such. I do bike but a motorcycle is much more convenient if I'd like to go meet someone for lunch or need to travel across town for anything. Plus like someone said, it's a loving sumo, it's cool. It's not my only means of transportation and I'm mainly getting it for the hooligan fun factor / backroads with friends. It's up around 100 or more here all summer so getting up to operating temps really, really doesn't take long. You can't really avoid that with a carb'd bike either as they really need a minute to warm up. With the F4i it would start up every single time no matter what, the FI was a godsend. I'm looking at the DRZ first, it being 3 years newer is quite tempting for reliability. I've heard the 05 or before 625's aren't the best. The DRZ has most stuff done besides an FCR. It has a steering damper, full exhaust, air filter, jetting, spools, etc. As far as I know the KTM doesn't have any farkles. It's really a toss-up between great reliability, less vibrations, more farkles vs. more power / serious nature with no real upgrades and a less comfortable ride.
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Jun 30, 2011 17:55
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Neither one is a comfortable ride, so you can pretty much ignore that. The DRZ being three years newer isn't really a thing, since the DRZ's design was originally carved out of stone by the Romans and has only had color and graphics updates since. Like it's been said, you can't really go wrong, buy what one you like more. They're both going to sell if you don't buy them and they'll both have happy new owners.
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Jun 30, 2011 20:32
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While I would argue that the DRZ will actually be more comfortable (compared to the racebikes, I've had experience with those), I'm leaning more towards the KTM now. I'll show up and offer 3k and see what happens. Anyone wanna input on what an 04 625 in average condition is worth in your area?
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Jun 30, 2011 21:26
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The ergos are the same and both bikes have a wooden plank for a seat, the comfort is the same. I've had my rear end on plenty of supermotos, they're all the same in the comfort department: Fine at first, sore after a while, murder after a long time.
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Jun 30, 2011 21:39
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Replacement seats for the DRZ seem to run in the $2-300 range. I've seen a few options... They look pretty comfortable. I personally don't find it to be that bad when riding in the 5-50 mile range but ymmv.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:16
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The DRZ has a Renazco racing seat. No idea how that performs, I've never heard of that company before.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:17
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JP Money posted:The DRZ has a Renazco racing seat. No idea how that performs, I've never heard of that company before. Ah, that's quite a bit more comfortable than stock.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:26
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Cross post from the other thread. 2007 DRZ400SM, 3000 miles... Yoshi RS-2 stainless/alu full system, Dynojet kit and Keintech extended pilot screw, Rental Fatbar, axle sliders front and rear. The yellow plastic on it now is some cheap motocross kit that the PO put on which looks really good from 15 feet but up close the fit is quite rough, *but* I got all the original plastic with it, black in mint condition. I also got the original complete exhaust. The tank is the original black with yellow stickers. It hasn't got any blinkers (it's illegal to go without them in Sweden), although I got them together with the other original parts. The rear tyre is a non-street legal racing tyre, and the decibel killer is not installed, making it illegally loud. I used to be such a law abiding citizen. What have I become? Oh, and it has a cock ring, apparently.
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Jun 30, 2011 23:14
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Nidhg00670000 posted:Oh, and it has a cock ring, apparently.  The bike looks great and I'm jealous I'm not in the supermoto club.
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Jun 30, 2011 23:27
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jdonz posted:I meant no offense, I honestly had no idea what it was for. It was more of a question as to its purpose, I was just trying to be funny It's all good, I really thought you knew what it is and were teasing me. 
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Jun 30, 2011 23:38
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So I found a DRZ 400s for a good price. What all would I need to convert it to sm?
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Jul 1, 2011 03:09
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Wheels, Tires (Recommend Contiforce SM for pure pavement or Avon Distanzia for on/off), Front Brake Rotor, SM speedo unit if you want it to be accurate, Kickstand (It should be drat near vertical with the S stand on SM wheels, I've seen people heat and bend a stock S one.) and maybe a rear sprocket depending on how the S is currently geared. SM comes stock with a slightly longer swing-arm too, but that shouldn't matter much.
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Jul 1, 2011 07:23
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Well, I did it. I was getting ready to bite the bullet on a bike 3hrs away when this showed up. Went and looked at it the next day, bought it 12 hours ago. It's insanely clean, if a bit on the stunta side. Really the only upgrades it's missing are a seat and a possibly a lowering link (cause I'm shorter than the PO). I have to cram in insurance, registration, and plating tomorrow so I can ride it a bit before work. Knocks are a scratched front rim and a broken electrical connection in the front left turn signal. The guy even delivered it, which was amazing and he gave me all the original parts as well.
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Jul 1, 2011 11:24
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robotsinmyhead posted:Well, I did it. I was getting ready to bite the bullet on a bike 3hrs away when this showed up. Went and looked at it the next day, bought it 12 hours ago. You should be pretty pleased with insurance. Crazy coverage for them is dirt cheap. I was quoted like 30 bucks a year for liability with Progressive or like 20 dollars a month for comp/collision. In other news, the KTM was sold out from under me after I had made plans to see it tonight. Oh well, looks like I'm scoping out that DRZ.
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Jul 1, 2011 16:53
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Can anyone recommend a pilot fuel screw adjustment tool that will *actually* fit a DRZ/FCR before I waste another  ?
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Jul 1, 2011 19:12
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Synonamess Botch posted:Can anyone recommend a pilot fuel screw adjustment tool that will *actually* fit a DRZ/FCR before I waste another Hack down a cheap screwdriver, fit a piece of rubber tubing to make a handle.
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Jul 1, 2011 19:23
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Synonamess Botch posted:Can anyone recommend a pilot fuel screw adjustment tool that will *actually* fit a DRZ/FCR before I waste another What one did you have and why didn't it fit? Hit starter motor?
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Jul 1, 2011 20:29
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One of these which came up when I did a google search, and the tool itself is too big to fit into the recess of the screw. If it were skinnier it would work perfect. My fault for not double-checking.
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Jul 1, 2011 20:42
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To anyone out there : DON'T GET A loving SUMO! Jesus motherfucking christ i'm tired of getting tickets, I think i'm going to buy a motherfucking cruiser... /rant over.
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Jul 1, 2011 20:58
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Synonamess Botch posted:One of these which came up when I did a google search, and the tool itself is too big to fit into the recess of the screw. If it were skinnier it would work perfect. My fault for not double-checking. A lot of people buy this http://shop.thumpertalk.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=INT_KIENTECH_FCRFMS And drill their float bowl out with a 1/4" bit to make room for it. http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=737878&highlight=kientech
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Jul 1, 2011 21:18
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Primo Itch posted:To anyone out there : Mine is parked for similar reasons. Weekend rides to far away places only for me now. Safe from the prying eyes of the law.
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Jul 2, 2011 00:10
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MrZig posted:A lot of people buy this http://shop.thumpertalk.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=INT_KIENTECH_FCRFMS Do I need to drill it on an SM model, cause I thought that was just for E's? A-L-S-O, will going up in size on the main jet help the bike from sputtering and dying off idle? It's obviously leaning out (popping nasty thru the carb/filter) but even with a 55 pilot jet it still does it. It will idle very rich (easy to tell from the smell) but still die when I whack the throttle, and if I rev it slowly the revs will hang, like it's lean. I'll probably settle on a 50 or a 52 I think, but it still acts the same no matter what.
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Jul 2, 2011 00:55
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EDIT: Sorry I didn't realize you were looking for a tool, not an extended screw. I have this one and like it. Easy to adjust even with gloves on. http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/merge_00-019.htm
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Jul 2, 2011 14:41
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I got my DRZ out and about today. Absolutely love it! It's like riding a mountain bike with a motor on it. Price was ok, but it has all the goodies on it, all the original parts, and he delivered to my house about 40 miles away - well worth not futzing over in my opinion. Anyway, here's some pictures!   I was worried about the seat height, but it's alright once the shock compresses, so I'm not going to get a lowering link. The only things it really needs are a new seat, some mirrors, and a sprocket cover for the front (which might be in said box of parts) It's got a bunch of Acerbis bits, Zeta bars, levers, and handguards, FCR Carb, bigger EBC front brake, Yoshi slip-on, bigger Clarke tank and plastics, new chain and sprockets with taller gears, and some LED lights. The PO went apeshit I think and hit ADD ALL TO CART on podiumsuperbike.com, but the thing was stupidly clean and well-built.
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Jul 2, 2011 22:20
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Nice bike Check out seat concepts for a potential seat replacement. Have one on my 650 and major difference. +1 on the FCR swap, awesome mod
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Jul 2, 2011 23:21
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epix posted:Nice bike Thanks for the link, those seats look really nice and the 1" lowering is appealing.
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Jul 3, 2011 07:41
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Got the DRZ running but I have a blown fork seal. Can I have just the 1 replaced or do I need to do both at the same time? The local shop quoted me almost $400 to do both seals. (about $60 cheaper if I bring them just the forks) It just seems like too much money. Can't I get RaceTech internals for not much more? Any suggestions? Should I just suck it up and get it fixed? I really want to be out riding again.
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Jul 5, 2011 22:17
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cmorrow001 posted:Got the DRZ running but I have a blown fork seal. Allocate a full day to do it the first time, though.
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Jul 5, 2011 22:37
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I'll look through the service manual/thumpertalk to see if I feel capable or not. I'm assuming it doesn't take a lot of special tools? Thanks for the suggestion.
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Jul 5, 2011 22:57
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You can manage with a standard set of tools and a piece of size appropriate PVC to drive the seals. The hard part for some is compressing the spring, but creative use of bodyweight, come-alongs, and jackstands can sort that. I'd definitely do it yourself without buying the proper tools, if possible. Way too expensive otherwise.
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Jul 6, 2011 03:52
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Try cleaning your seals first yo.
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Jul 6, 2011 05:44
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Jabs posted:even if you don't have a garage to work in. I did mine in my kitchen with nothing more than a youtube instructional video, some PVC pipe cut in half for a driver and a comically large syringe fitted with a length of brass tubing to do the air gap. Total cost was less than £20. Would have been £200+ to have the dealer do it.
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Jul 6, 2011 13:20
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Bixington posted:I'd definitely do it yourself without buying the proper tools, if possible. Way too expensive otherwise. I must be lucky, there's a mechanic near me that will change out fork seals (both legs) for $125 including materials. That's cheap enough I haven't worried about learning how to do it  .
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Jul 6, 2011 14:56
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Now that the Gixxer is running nice again, I've been thinking of selling it  I haven't really been doing any decent rides lately so the idea of getting a 'tard for hacking around town is getting serious. Looking at DRZs and 640s mostly. Any opinions on these? (Note: I use my bike as my sole transport, so it'll need to start everyday to get to work)2004 640 2001 640 2005 DRZ (this one looks like it might been converted to an SM from another model?) 2005 DRZ (this looks like it might be the best buy) 2009 DRZ (probably best of the lot but pushing it budget-wise) Potential comedy option: 2005 Husky SM610S. Is this thing likely to be a hand grenade? More time servicing it than riding it? Will the KTMs offer anything over the DRZ? IIRC the 640s are pre-balance shaft so how bad are the vibes? I'm going to try and line up and a test-ride on a DRZ next week to see if I like them before committing though.
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Jul 8, 2011 03:12
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I don't like that vintage of KTM. Vibey, with a number of well known issues as KTM worked out the kinks of the engine. I agree the 05 that you think is the best buy is probably your best option. I've seen those huskys have quite a few issues. Mostly revolving around the cam chain stretching early. It will be more powerful, have nicer components, etc., but for reliability and pure getting you to work, Id go DRZ. Learn from my mistakes, resist the temptation to mod, and save that money to sell the drz and buy a 690 if you decide to stick with the sumo style.
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Jul 8, 2011 05:55
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