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sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

iForge posted:

So I picked up an OLD Wilton No. 60 vise on Tuesday. It weighs atleast 100 pounds. The dynamic jaw was seized when I first got it, and it is missing the plate that attaches the screw to the dynamic jaw so that the jaw opens when you turn the screw counter clockwise. Easy fix. Getting the dynamic jaw unstuck was a whole different matter...



I ended up using a chisel and a hammer to unstick it initially. Then came the crowbar to move it a little farther, and I was able to progressively open it to about 4 inches and thats all it would go. Then I had an idea....



Two minutes later and the jack had saved the day...

I hit it with a wire cup on the angle grinder and I currently have everything soaking in a heavy degreaser to remove the petrified grease from the inside of the box and off everything in general. The screw, as pictured below, is in IMMACULATE shape for the age of this vise as well. Date of manufacture is January 1945.

I am open to suggestions on what color to paint the body and a different accent color for the raised lettering. Also, does anyone know how to remove the back cap off of one of these? There are no pins or screws and I don't want to force anything. It will just make cleaning a bit easier...



Ask on GarageJournal... or do a search over there. Lots of rebuilding of vises going on in the forums.

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Iskariot
May 25, 2010
Or pop on over to Mecca itself - http://owwm.org/

Boogeyman
Sep 29, 2004

Boo, motherfucker.

Pinkerton posted:

The price on that saw is really incredible. The cheapest well reviewed compound sliding saw I've found is the 12" Hitachi http://goo.gl/QNOs1 which is $280 more than the saw you posted. With the difference I could replace my aging circular saw to handle any cuts that are too large for the miter.

Decisions decisions... :ohdear:

If you're looking to replace your circular saw, Hitachi makes a nice one of those too (cheap as well). I haven't used mine all that much, but when I do have to bust it out it's a breeze to use.

Ahz
Jun 17, 2001
PUT MY CART BACK? I'M BETTER THAN THAT AND YOU! WHERE IS MY BUTLER?!
My biggest issue with my Bosch 12" dual bevel sliding mitre saw isn't really the cost of blades, as I knew they would be pricier. It's the simple size of the thing. I not only need a massive amount of workbench width to store it, but I need at least a 3' depth bench to give it room to slide back as well. It's huge.


I think I'll sell it when I'm done my reno and buy a sliding 10" or smaller instead.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
So I found a really nice looking old drill at Goodwill the other day. It looks just like this:



But when I plug it in it doesn't work. I suspect(and hope) it's the brushes. I'll admit though I am a novice to drill repair. From extensive googling I can barely find anything about the company that made it, and definitely not any spare parts. Are there any generic brushes I can use or is it possible to modify current drill brushes to fit?

The plate on it says the following:

Shop-Craft
Industrial Listed 1/4" Drill
Model NO. 9740 Type 5
115 V.A.C. 25-60 CYC. 2.0 Amps
2000 R.P.M.
Portable Electric Tools INC.
Geneva, ILL. U.S.A.

Then in a little silver rectangle in the bottom right of the plate it has the designation "56H" stamped into the metal. I think it might be the serial number?

Goons, please help me get this working so I have an excuse to buy drill accessories!

Iskariot
May 25, 2010
I got a new toy: http://www.mafell.com/produkte/prod_saegen_kst55_i.html

This is the previous model of Mafells track saw and lacks a few of the features the MT55 has but it's mostly how easy things are to set up (two levers instead of one mostly) and the KST 55 comes with a retractable riving knife that the MT 55 doesn't have. The missing features are easy-to-use ones, like one-button blade removal and so on. The KST 55 is sold (or was, I dunno) as a combined circular saw/track saw where as the MT 55 is a pure track saw. No idea why Mafell discontinued the knife, the Norwegian importer was told that it wasn't needed as electronics in the saw would prevent kickback. Doesn't help burns though.

I got this with a kickass side rail and in a systainer. No tracks. List price was $1,350.00 :monocle: but I got it for $360. Still need to buy tracks for it which will be another $400 for 2x160cm tracks, two clamps, a connection piece and a bag to store it in.

It's made from loving magnesium. I get a boner simply looking at it.

TouchyMcFeely
Aug 21, 2006

High five! Hell yeah!

Congrats on the find.

I got my hardware from Eureka Zone the other day. It's like Legos for adults that lets you build really cool stuff.

Bogatyr
Jul 20, 2009
http://www.stabila.com/main.taf?p=1,1,8,1
Just bought this pocket level, arriving tomorrow. I don't need another level but something about it just made me :neckbeard:

babyeatingpsychopath
Oct 28, 2000
Forum Veteran


My friend just bought a house, and through some trick of financing, got all his earnest money back at closing. So instead of getting all porter-cable power tools, he got Festool.

He now has a Festool track saw, HEPA 3 vacuum, router, cordless drill, and some attachments. They all pack into systainers that clip into the vacuum.

Neat pieces of kit. I hesitate to ask what he spent on it all, but using these tools is amazing. We did some quick dimensioning cuts with the saw then finished to size with the router just as a sanity "do I really not need a table saw and jointer now?"

No dust anywhere, and the wood pieces have a near sucking fit. Amazing what good tools can do for careful craftsmen. I would have no problem building cabinets in my living room with this setup and not worrying about mess.

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
Bought a 5m metric tape measure at the dollar store yesterday. I don't need it, but it just seemed really novel to have a metric tape, and gently caress, it's cheap.

ibpooks
Nov 4, 2005

babyeatingpsychopath posted:

I would have no problem building cabinets in my living room with this setup and not worrying about mess.

As cool as the saws and routers are, the sanders are what's really cool in the Festool line. They have drat near dust free sanding all the way from rough paint stripping to very fine polishing.

Iskariot
May 25, 2010

ibpooks posted:

As cool as the saws and routers are, the sanders are what's really cool in the Festool line. They have drat near dust free sanding all the way from rough paint stripping to very fine polishing.
While the Fes sanders are top of the line, most modern, professional sanders will do this as well. Bosch has a new line that does well even without a vacuum attached. The small paper filter catches drat near everything.

Speaking of sanders, I saw a demo of the new Mafell sander. A regular plane sander which is pretty out of style at the moment. The neat thing with this was perfect dust gathering and no vibration. They demonstrated this with putting a glass of water on top of it while sanding. It was like a Rolls-Royce test only with a sander! Pretty cool. The price... not so much.

Not an Anthem
Apr 28, 2003

I'm a fucking pain machine and if you even touch my fucking car I WILL FUCKING DESTROY YOU.

ibpooks posted:

As cool as the saws and routers are, the sanders are what's really cool in the Festool line. They have drat near dust free sanding all the way from rough paint stripping to very fine polishing.

God the festool sanders are awesome. I spent 14 hours one day going from super rough uneven glue ups to perfect laminate table tops for my boss with his festools. Hooked the vacuum up high and just had the big and small head sanders, the only thing that hurt at the end of the day was my feet.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
I just bought the six piece set of wera screwdrivers on Amazon... what a difference even compared to my Mac and snap on drivers. Do yourselves a favor and get some.

Ahz
Jun 17, 2001
PUT MY CART BACK? I'M BETTER THAN THAT AND YOU! WHERE IS MY BUTLER?!
Any good recommendations on a value priced corded circular saw? Nothing in the ryobi range, but closer to $100 vs. $150+.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
I'm pulling out my flooring for replacement and have run into a problem:


My kitchen cabinets (which the previous owners remodeled with granite on top) are on top of the existing flooring. I've read that I can use a toe kick saw to cut next to the cabinets, but the local rental place is closed on Sundays, and I'd rather not buy a tool I would use once or twice. Is there an alternative?

Iskariot
May 25, 2010
Get a Fein. Perfect for this kind of job and many, many others. Once you have one you'll be amazed you coul function without one for all these years. Copies from Bosch, Craftsman, etc will work as well but the original is still the best.

http://www.multimaster.info/fein-multimaster/us/en/main/

Iskariot
May 25, 2010

Ahz posted:

Any good recommendations on a value priced corded circular saw? Nothing in the ryobi range, but closer to $100 vs. $150+.
Hitachi has really good reputation but Bosch and DeWalt makes really good saws as well. Make sure it has a decently sized motor and an aluminum base. The steel bases are prone to warp and are stamped out of thin sheets. The aluminum ones are molded and more accurate.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

Iskariot posted:

Get a Fein. Perfect for this kind of job and many, many others. Once you have one you'll be amazed you coul function without one for all these years. Copies from Bosch, Craftsman, etc will work as well but the original is still the best.

http://www.multimaster.info/fein-multimaster/us/en/main/
Good call. Picked up a Dremel for $90 at Home Depot -- the Fein was closer to $300, and I couldn't foresee myself spending that much on it, especially when HF has a generic for ~$30.

It took almost an hour, but it did a hell of a job:


If you didn't notice, there were two sets of flooring I pulled out.

Iskariot
May 25, 2010

Bank posted:

Good call. Picked up a Dremel for $90 at Home Depot -- the Fein was closer to $300, and I couldn't foresee myself spending that much on it, especially when HF has a generic for ~$30.

If you didn't notice, there were two sets of flooring I pulled out.
There's a world of difference between a HF China copy and the Fein Multimaster but I understand why you didn't shell out for the MM straight away. It's pricey. Consider it if you end up using this type of tool often and/or for long periods of time. There's far less vibration in the Fein and the build quality is superb. The tool attachments are also of higher quality so they last longer (and is why the cost more than other brands blades).

Good job on the floor. I once did something similar with a saw attachment to a regular Dremel. Needless to say it was a grueling experience.

Dielectric
May 3, 2010

Ahz posted:

Any good recommendations on a value priced corded circular saw? Nothing in the ryobi range, but closer to $100 vs. $150+.

Love my Hitachi 7 1/4" saw. Aluminum base, plenty of power, good adjusters and scales. $89 at Lowes right now.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

SpartanIV posted:

So I found a really nice looking old drill at Goodwill the other day. It looks just like this:



Open the drill up, check the brushes. If there's a bit left, take them to a good hardware/tool store & ask for new ones.

It might not be the brushes, does the shaft spin by hand? Check the continuity of the wiring & the function of the switch also.

Trench_Rat
Sep 19, 2006
Doing my duty for king and coutry since 86
cross posting from Ask and Tell


In a couple of weeks I'll be going to Miami (Florida) before joining my ship in the Bahamas. I will have a day or two in the city and my father asked me to buy him a Fein Multimaster (its crazy expensive in europe 900+ dollars), and you can get it from 199 dollars (starter set) in the US (something to do with patents in the eu VS usa). I know the RPM of the motor is dependent on the hz. I can use a step down converter to deal with the voltage. But can the electrical motor be damaged or burned out by running on a lower hz?

RoboJiggolo
Aug 16, 2004

More Than Meets the Eye

Trench_Rat posted:

cross posting from Ask and Tell


In a couple of weeks I'll be going to Miami (Florida) before joining my ship in the Bahamas. I will have a day or two in the city and my father asked me to buy him a Fein Multimaster (its crazy expensive in europe 900+ dollars), and you can get it from 199 dollars (starter set) in the US (something to do with patents in the eu VS usa). I know the RPM of the motor is dependent on the hz. I can use a step down converter to deal with the voltage. But can the electrical motor be damaged or burned out by running on a lower hz?

No, like you said it will run slower than at 60hz but 50hz won't damage it.

Changing the frequency is how you control the speed of an AC motor, we use a "variable frequency drive".
I have seen motors running in some "crawl mode" that was only at a few hertz.

RoboJiggolo fucked around with this message at 10:18 on Jul 9, 2011

grover
Jan 23, 2002

PEW PEW PEW
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:
:circlefap::circlefap::circlefap:

RoboJiggolo posted:

No, like you said it will run slower than at 60hz but 50hz won't damage it.

Changing the frequency is how you control the speed of an AC motor, we use a "variable frequency drive".
I have seen motors running in some "crawl mode" that was only at a few hertz.
That's not entirely true; motor cores are typically designed for a particular frequency and will saturate magnetically at lower frequencies, which removes all magnetic impedance and ends up basically being a short-circuit with whatever little resistance the wire of the coils themselves generate. This will cause motors and transformers to quickly overheat and burn up. (Incidentally, it's also why you should never plug a 60Hz-only transformer/power supply into a 50Hz outlet.) Going the other way (50Hz motor on 60Hz) won't saturate, but will have increased hysteresis and eddy current losses and also risks overheating, though usually nowhere nearly as bad. I've seen transformers before with literally twice the power going in than coming out- with all that loss being dumped directly into the core as heat.

Motors need to be specifically designed/selected for variable frequency operation. You need to check with the manufacturer and see if the 60Hz motor will run safely at 50Hz. A lot of stuff that's sold internationally is OK for 50/60Hz and you just need to change a few taps inside it to convert between European and US voltages.

grover fucked around with this message at 14:01 on Jul 9, 2011

Trench_Rat
Sep 19, 2006
Doing my duty for king and coutry since 86
according to the user guide pfd on the Fein website the tool is rated 110 - 240 volt 50hz - 60hz. So it looks like I only need a plug converter. Now I only need to find a place that sells it near the airport (dosent look like home depot carries it)



edit: dealer locater on the website

dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]
My local home depot carries the fein multimaster for $200

Iskariot
May 25, 2010

Trench_Rat posted:

cross posting from Ask and Tell


In a couple of weeks I'll be going to Miami (Florida) before joining my ship in the Bahamas. I will have a day or two in the city and my father asked me to buy him a Fein Multimaster (its crazy expensive in europe 900+ dollars), and you can get it from 199 dollars (starter set) in the US (something to do with patents in the eu VS usa). I know the RPM of the motor is dependent on the hz. I can use a step down converter to deal with the voltage. But can the electrical motor be damaged or burned out by running on a lower hz?
This isn't true at all. Fein is actually competitive in Europe because they no longer have the patent on these types of machines. I can get a starter kit for $200 in Norway and this is the place where tools are 2-4 times as expensive as in the US.

European tool store that ships internationally: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/fein-fmm250q-multimaster-top-kit-accessories-240v-p10713

Get the Top pack. Fein racks in the money on attachments and your father will use the supplied stuff from a Top pack for a long time. Oh and the starter version has a bolt locking the attachments in place instead of the fantastic lever. You want the lever.

Trench_Rat
Sep 19, 2006
Doing my duty for king and coutry since 86

Iskariot posted:

This isn't true at all. Fein is actually competitive in Europe because they no longer have the patent on these types of machines. I can get a starter kit for $200 in Norway and this is the place where tools are 2-4 times as expensive as in the US.

European tool store that ships internationally: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/fein-fmm250q-multimaster-top-kit-accessories-240v-p10713

Get the Top pack. Fein racks in the money on attachments and your father will use the supplied stuff from a Top pack for a long time. Oh and the starter version has a bolt locking the attachments in place instead of the fantastic lever. You want the lever.

har du trapper i huset ditt?


when did they start to get cheap? Before christmas my dad was looking for one and cheapest he could find was 4000 nok. Well there is still almost a 800 to a 1000 nok to be saved on getting the Top Plus set in the US and the blades are crazy expensive.

Iskariot
May 25, 2010
Ja, det har jeg.

Fein started dropping the price once Bosch made and marketed the green version to DIY-ers. After that all sorts of copies have been made and Fein has dropped the price significantly.

I wouldn't get one from the US if that meant running it through a converter. The Top Plus package should be available for 3000 NOK on sale somewhere. Then you get a Norwegian warranty and the Top Plus package contains more attachments than the Top.

It's the only tool that's actually smart to buy locally. Perhaps attachments are slightly cheaper in the US.

Rule of thumb: Never get corded tools from the US, always cordless. Then you only need to rebuild/replace the charger, not run some lovely converter every time you want to use your tool. (*sniff* Hilti prices in the US. They mock me!)

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot
What are peoples opinion on Hitatchi Power tools, there is a sale going on at a local hardware store for a impact driver/ 1/2 drill combo for 150.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...ved=0CEYQ8wIwAQ

This is what the combo is.

Iskariot
May 25, 2010

BrokenKnucklez posted:

What are peoples opinion on Hitatchi Power tools, there is a sale going on at a local hardware store for a impact driver/ 1/2 drill combo for 150.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...ved=0CEYQ8wIwAQ

This is what the combo is.
Hitachi makes professional grade tools. I don't know the models in that package but it's a sweet deal.

Hitachi is converting their drills and drivers to brush-less motors so the above package is probably with brushes. It doesn't really affect you as you'd be hard pressed to wear out the brushes on quality tools with DIY use.

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
I bought a $5 scroll saw from Goodwill the other day and finally got around to ripping it apart and checking it out. Everything is very clean and in good working order except the switch is bad on it. So when it's plugged in it's on. Also it is LOUD AS gently caress

So turn your speakers down before playing this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=neHY10VSuvE

Which is pretty funny because there are virtually no moving parts. It has no motor, simply a giant electromagnet.
http://imgur.com/9kJ9r

Which pulls and pushes this metal plate above it
http://i.imgur.com/wsdfI.jpg

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
I bought a Rigid Jobmax setup this weekend (I had a spot I had to have a 90° drill for, and it was close to the same price for a standalone 90° drill...

Its loving awesome. The 4-position power head is really handy, so you can move the trigger and LED to any direction you need. The drill is really really compact, which is a bonus (the Ryobi 90° drill was 2" wider, and wouldn't have fit in my space).

If only they still had the free attachment promo still going.

Miscreant
Jan 13, 2005
Racing office chairs since 1998

BrokenKnucklez posted:

What are peoples opinion on Hitatchi Power tools, there is a sale going on at a local hardware store for a impact driver/ 1/2 drill combo for 150.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...ved=0CEYQ8wIwAQ

This is what the combo is.

I bought this set and had to return it because the clutch on the drill driver was useless. It was either wide open or stupid loose with no adjustability at all. Having said that if you don't care at all about the clutch on the driver it's hard to beat that price.

I spent the extra to get a similar 14V hilti set and never regretted it, drove 250 or so 3" screws into treated lumber on a single set of charges with the impact yesterday and will do about that again tonight.

Dielectric
May 3, 2010

Miscreant posted:

I bought this set and had to return it because the clutch on the drill driver was useless. It was either wide open or stupid loose with no adjustability at all. Having said that if you don't care at all about the clutch on the driver it's hard to beat that price.


I've got that Hitachi drill-driver, but didn't get it in a combo. The first one died immediately, the chuck fell off because the drive shaft came out of the drill, spilling its ball bearings. I've been running the second one hard for several(?) years now. I've driven a ton of deck screws, drilled a ton of 2" holes with a hole saw, and drilled the bejeezus out of a bunch of steel with a step bit. Original battery, no issues. My clutch also works properly and I use it a fair amount. I suspect that their QC is not so good on this line. If you get one, make sure you can return it easily I guess.

My Hitachi circular saw keeps on trucking, never a hiccup.

Kudaros
Jun 23, 2006
What do you all think about this:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPA5772S1319721001P?prdNo=18&i_cntr=1311859828465

combo lathe mill/drill?

Relatively cheap for fabricating some custom equipment, like a vacuum chuck (cutting circular grooves into an otherwise flat and smooth surface) and other small precision-ish parts. I say 'ish' because for things with extremely low tolerances we ask other people to do, but for more basic things we would use this, and it would be cheaper to buy this now and fabricate some things ourselves rather than ask someone else to do the fabrication we need.

dyne
May 9, 2003
[blank]
I don't know about that specific model, but I've read that the combo machines aren't particularly pleasant to use at either task. I just got separate machines at harbor freight for not much more than that combo. I bought their 8x12 lathe for around $380 and the mill for $480ish. I bought both while they were on sale and used 20% off coupons.

keykey
Mar 28, 2003

     
Found one of these at a garage sale last weekend for $5:


Took it home, replaced the electric cord and now it runs like a champ. It's a 1928 Rockwell 3/4" drill, I'm a sucker for old world industrial equipment. :swoon:

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mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

keykey posted:

Found one of these at a garage sale last weekend for $5:


Took it home, replaced the electric cord and now it runs like a champ. It's a 1928 Rockwell 3/4" drill, I'm a sucker for old world industrial equipment. :swoon:

My dad used to have a drill very similar to that. Be careful with it, they can easily break your wrists.

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