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I suppose I should figure out if my buddies want to play mid or late first. I want to play late, but two of them want to play Italy and use motorcycles. That doesn't jive with late at all does it?  Easywar looks amazing, thanks for that.
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Jun 30, 2011 09:06
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DiscipleoftheClaw posted:Hey, so a couple of friends and I are talking about getting into a new Historical game - something cheap, probably, so around 6-10mm. There is a lot of talk of the usual Napoleonics (the excellent minis available from Baccus are a big draw), but I was wondering about doing something around the Thirty Years War. Two questions arise, however! Id go with Pendraken in 10mm for 30YW (although its not an era I know much about). I do however know a lot about Pendraken minis and on the whole they are excellent. I notice they havent got pics of their 30YW range up, but if you join their great forum and ask, either the guy who runs the website will do you some pics (ace customer service) or one of the relaly helpful posters there will. http://www.pendraken.co.uk/Renaissance-c12/30-Years-War-sc47/ I dont know much about Pike and Shotte to be honest. Black Powder is a little late for this era, but it would work with some tweaking Im sure. However they claim to be releasing a supplement for Black Powder to cover the 30YW/ECW. ooh there is a Warmaster fan made version for 30YW if you want... http://ermtony.pbworks.com/w/page/14871632/Renaissance-Commander Jinjin Bemar fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Jun 30, 2011 |
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Jun 30, 2011 18:09
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More of my Operation Compass project
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Jun 30, 2011 20:42
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WIP of my samurai skirmish project. This is the biggest project I've attempted, and I enrolled a fellow history nut at the club for it. We're building a 120cm x 120 cm table of a medieval Japanese village, with a dozen houses with full interiors, a stream, rice fields and all that jazz. The deadline is an odd convention in September that is only geared towards scenario play: no tournaments, no points based games, just insane hobbyists and their pets. Like this amazing Nosferatu game: http://galoregbg.wordpress.com/arrangemang/nosferatu/ Or a Danish game about vikings fighting Owl Bears and Liliputians. I digress. I'll try to grab some WIP pics of the village this monday, as we are more or less finished with everything on the houses except the roofs. Until then, here's a WIP of the scrummy ronin bandits from Black Hat that will mess things up:   After I finish these I have 30 odd town people from Old Glory to paint up.
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Jun 30, 2011 22:05
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Nice. http://ambushalleygames.com/images/pdfs/fof_qs_rules.pdf For anyone tempted or considering modern skirmish, Force on Force quick start free rules are out.
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Jul 2, 2011 17:41
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http://www.warlordgames.co.uk/preview-black-powder-last-argument-of-kings/ The first supplement for Black Powder is out covering: The War of the Spanish Succession the Battle of Blenheim (1704) The Great Northern War the Battle of Holowczyn (1708) The Austro-Turkish Wars the Battle of Petrovardin (1716) The War of the Austrian Succession the Battle of Fontenoy (1745) The Wars of the English Succession the 1745 Rebellion The Seven Years War the Battle of Hundorf (1762) War in the Colonies The French Indian War & The War in India Raids and Invasions Amphibious Warfare in the 18th Century Not my period, but hoping the Napoleonic one is soon!
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Jul 5, 2011 07:52
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F&I War, eh? Sounds like another book I may have to buy.
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Jul 5, 2011 12:39
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Jinjin Bemar posted:http://www.warlordgames.co.uk/preview-black-powder-last-argument-of-kings/ Oooh meanwhile this is my period so hard, good timing for me getting into BP and all.
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Jul 5, 2011 14:51
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One of my friends just bought the Osprey Edition Force-on-Force, I finally get to play some historicals.  Gonna play some basic games this weekend, hopefully. We've got another friend who has a bunch of WWII stuff we might be able to get in on it. Unfortunately the old FoF supplements are gone from Ambush Alley Game's website, including the WWII book. Guess we'll be puzzling out stats for things like Shermans, Panzers and Half-Tracks ourselves.Also, does anyone know if the Sci-Fi book for Force-on-Force is any good? Maybe not quite the right thread to ask but... 
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Jul 9, 2011 00:56
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Heard good things about Tomorrow's War - it sounds extremely flexible - but I've never actually played it. It's also being redone in October, so I wouldn't buy it just yet.
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Jul 9, 2011 03:57
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Yeah found that out doing a bit of research today. Introduced a few of the people at the shop to FoF by busting out my old printed pdf copy of Ambush Alley and running a couple of them through Contracting Trouble. All involved had fun and seem to have further interest in the game. This is great. We played using some ork and eldar minis, but if this keeps up I'm gonna definitely put some cash aside to at least get some basic minis in 15mm.
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Jul 9, 2011 05:41
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I've got the PDF version of Tomorrows War and while scifi isn't my thing it looks very cool. It's basically an expansion to the FOF rules to add in all sorts of mad sci fi stuff. My understanding is that the book out in October will be a stand alone rule book as opposed to a supplement for FOF. So if you already have FOF you might be better off buying the PDF supplement.
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Jul 9, 2011 07:41
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Foot sloggers are done
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Jul 9, 2011 14:58
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Axis and Allies: War at Sea http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/aamprod/productsnaval I just finished reading the entire thread from start to finish and someone had asked about War at Sea waaaaaay back at the start so I thought I would do an overview.   I've been playing since the game came out about 4 years ago. It's a 1/1,800 scale naval game with pre-painted collectible miniatures. I really like it but I know the collectible aspect of it will probably turn a lot of people off. There's a two-person starter set that comes with maps, tokens, some dice and a set and 8 units - 4 Allied units (2 destroyers, a torpedo bomber and a cruiser) and 4 Axis units ( a cruiser, patrol bomber, destroyer and submarine). The minis are collectible so outside the starter which has fixed units, you have to buy booster packs that have random pieces (1 rare, 2 uncommon, 2 common) or single units (ebay). The pieces are also pre-painted but a lot of players repaint them or make other minor modifications to represent sister ships and refits. Collectible means "rare" units like battleships and carriers are expensive to buy or trade for while "common" pieces like destroyers and fighters are abundant.   It has a really great diversity of units to choose from - auxiliaries, torpedo boats, destroyers, destroyers escorts, light/heavy cruisers, battleships, aircraft carriers, submarines, fighters, torp bombers, patrol bombers, dive bombers and fighters. It also has a large number of factions. The biggest navies are British, German, Italian, American and Japanese. A number of smaller fleets are also available, French, Soviet, Dutch, Australian and a few others. I'll be honest, the game mechanics are fairly simple. You roll big handfuls of dice and hope you hit. Finer points like "crossing the T" aren't modeled but new rules have updated a few elements like aircraft strafing and anti-submarine warfare. However, it's not overly complicated like some other games I have played. I think one was called Victory at Sea - after a briefing, set up and playing for about a hour the battle had really only just begun. It got bogged down in constant bickering over rules and dice rolls. War at Sea is very quick and simple from small 100-point flotilla engagements up to massive 500-point task force brawls. There's not a lot of rules lawyering or flipping through rulebooks looking for stats.   Initially, Wizards provided good product support by publishing scenarios and contests but that has pretty much evaporated. With a starter pack and a few boosters (total less than $100) you could easily build a few fleets for all the major powers. A few of the early sets had quality problems but most of the new stuff is ok. The older pieces are out of print anyway. There's a new set coming out between August and October that will have about 40 new units. However, they are starting to hit the wall in terms of unit diversity so have branched out into prototype/fantasy units like the Sovietsky Soyuz and German Z Plan ships. That has upset a few grognards. Pros: Quick and easy to learn and play, very diverse Cons: Simple rules and collectible rarity, some quality issues If you decide to check it out I also recommend a few accessories: Litko has some really great laser-cut plastic markers which are far superior to the little cardboard tags that come with the game. http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=ah/aamprod/productsnaval The island terrain sets from Pirates of the Spanish Main are also a great addition. They're a little hard to find but work perfectly with the War at Sea maps and are much better than the cardboard terrain cards in the stater set. http://www.trollandtoad.com/p307608.html The Axis and Allies forumini is also a great place for supplementary content. They have a lot of really great contributors and often host play-by-post tournaments which are a lot of fun. They also have a few homebrew additions for WWI, a strategic WWII variant, admiral cards, etc. The members also post a lot of good scenarios and discussions - they basically filled the void after Wizards dropped the ball. http://aaminis.myfastforum.org/
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Jul 10, 2011 02:01
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Two Questions: 1) Is there a 28mm WW2 skirmish/campaign ruleset? (ala Mordheim/Necromunda) I think I remember one being mentioned somewhere. 2) 6mm Thirty Years War rules/miniatures?
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Jul 10, 2011 21:36
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Hmm whats this? A drawing pin, some florists wire and some clump foliage? Whatever for?  A drawing pin with a tail?  A lumpy PVA soaked tree perhaps?  Hmm a black snow covered tree maybe??  Noooooooo. Fiery death!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
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Jul 11, 2011 18:45
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Well that's pretty cool, and way more durable than cotton.
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Jul 11, 2011 18:48
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Signal posted:Two Questions: Look at the first couple of posts on this very page for part of the answer to question 2. For 6mm I would look at Baccus ECW range or Irregular Minis.
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Jul 11, 2011 20:24
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I thought about doing those smoke markers by first painting the fire colors and then adding the black to the outer edges. How long did one of those take?
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Jul 12, 2011 11:55
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Conan the Librarian posted:I thought about doing those smoke markers by first painting the fire colors and then adding the black to the outer edges. How long did one of those take? Very quick. 5 minutes I guess. Obviously theres a long wait time for it to dry as I liberally soaked it in watered down PVA, but once the PVA dried in the sun throughout the day, I then liberally sprayed it with black paint, then as that was drying, sprayed the top half briefly with grey. then when that was dry, dabbed red, orange and yellow paint over the bottom to make the flames. I have refined my technique though. Im not longer using drawing pins as they are not stable enough. Im now using tiny screw cup washes, and filling the underside of them with milliput for some extra weight, and Ive also swapped out the florist wire for fuse wire as its a lot lighter, less top heavy when stuck to the washer and makes them more stable. Also the bonus of the screw cup washer is Im leaving the little recessed hole unfilled which means that it is a great anchor point when its put on top of a tank turret. Hang on I will post a quick pic to show what I mean.
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Jul 12, 2011 20:13
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You can see the screw cup washer, and how Ive added some milliput to the underside to give them a tad more weight.
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Jul 12, 2011 20:17
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Jinjin Bemar posted:You can see the screw cup washer, and how Ive added some milliput to the underside to give them a tad more weight. I'm so going to steal this for making markers for Trafalgar, cotton just isn't durable enough to stay in place.
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Jul 12, 2011 20:25
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lilljonas posted:I'm so going to steal this for making markers for Trafalgar, cotton just isn't durable enough to stay in place. I wonder if I could make some that would work for both Trafalgar and FoW. They're different scales, but that shouldn't really matter.
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Jul 12, 2011 21:34
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Colonial Air Force posted:I wonder if I could make some that would work for both Trafalgar and FoW. Im sure you could. Mine work for 6mm through to 15mm. Im going to do some as blast markers for Dystopian Wars at some point, but painted blue to look like huge splashes.
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Jul 12, 2011 21:35
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Granted its a big flame for 6mm, but it still works... 15mm QRF Abrams, 10mm A13 and 6mm T72 I think? EDIT- the explosions I am making now are slightly smaller than that test one, so look less huge on the 6mm. Jinjin Bemar fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jul 12, 2011 |
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Jul 12, 2011 21:42
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I'm interested in modern "historicals" but I'm not sure where to start. I prefer smaller scale (10 or 15mm I guess?) but I have no idea who makes good miniatures for modern conflicts. I would also be interested in hearing about the best rulesets for modern combat, as well. And random aside, but are there many places that actually play this stuff in the US? It looks really popular in the UK but I've never heard of it here. I'm into it more for the painting / hobby aspect, but I'd love to play too if I can find people.
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Jul 12, 2011 21:51
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AbdominalSnowman posted:I'm interested in modern "historicals" but I'm not sure where to start. I prefer smaller scale (10 or 15mm I guess?) but I have no idea who makes good miniatures for modern conflicts. I would also be interested in hearing about the best rulesets for modern combat, as well. For rules, Force on Force / Ambush Alley is great. QRF makes modern stuff in that scale, I think?
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Jul 12, 2011 23:13
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Peter Pig is pretty much the de facto standard for modern 15mm models.
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Jul 13, 2011 02:08
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Jinjin Bemar posted:Hmm whats this?
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Jul 13, 2011 02:16
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AbdominalSnowman posted:And random aside, but are there many places that actually play this stuff in the US? It looks really popular in the UK but I've never heard of it here. I'm into it more for the painting / hobby aspect, but I'd love to play too if I can find people. As your first question is answered, a good solution to the problem of having few locals playing is to simply paint up both sides of a game. This is much more common in historicals than in games like Warhammer, as there are simply so many rulesets, basing conventions, scales and periods that you can't rely on your specific darling to be popular in your area. Since it's much cheaper to build both sides for a Force on Force game than to build a single army or Warhammer, this is not as daunting as it sounds. So paint up both sides and invite people at a local club to try it out. I can pretty much bet you that someone will bite. I've done this for DBA, Trafalgar, Canvas Eagles and other less mainstream period games, so I bet you you will have no problem finding a handful of American gamer who would like to play out Black Hawk Down if presented with the finished game for free. And anectdotaly I have seen lots of American historical gamers, and they seem to like WW2 and ACW a lot, while British gamers seem to like Ancients and Napoleonics a lot. So compared to Scandinavia you should have less problem, since it's not like you are trying to push something unusual like trireme naval games.
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Jul 13, 2011 04:39
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The other alternative is 6mm using GHQ or CinC and playing a ruleset such as Cold War Commander or Modern Spearhead. These games aren't skirmish level like Force on Force but rather designed to represent whole army groups clashing. In my experience 6mm has some of the best and most detailed modern miniatures.
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Jul 13, 2011 06:49
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lilljonas posted:So paint up both sides and invite people at a local club to try it out. I can pretty much bet you that someone will bite. I've done this for DBA, Trafalgar, Canvas Eagles and other less mainstream period games, so I bet you you will have no problem finding a handful of American gamer who would like to play out Black Hawk Down if presented with the finished game for free. This, and the nice thing is, 15mm is drat cheap if you're only playing a small skirmish game. I'm planning on eventually getting some 15mm dudes for Ambush Alley and a group of 64 mixed insurgents (32 AKs, 8 RPGs, 8 RPKs, 8 Leaders, 8 Snipers) and 40 or so Regulars (24 Riflemen, 8 SAWs, 8 Grenadiers) will only cost me about $70 from Peter Pig. That is also far more regulars than needed (thanks to 8-man packs) but its also a start on a Force-on-Force unit, its enough men for a platoon or thereabouts. No vehicles, but those can be added on later. I'll probably pick up some Humvees and a Bradley eventually from this guy, Irishserb.
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Jul 13, 2011 07:38
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Another dumb question, but how do I go about basing stuff in 15mm? All the stores seem to sell figures affixed to little metal squares, but then I see everyone with their guys on these really nice trays with like 5 or 6 other little guys on them. Do I just snip them off of the base they come with, or are the movement trays sunk in so I can just mold terrain overtop of them, or what?
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Jul 13, 2011 20:03
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Put them on a flat base. Build up the height of the base around the figures cast on base. Use some sort of spackle or filler, or even sand and PVA. Or both.
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Jul 13, 2011 20:39
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Looks like some "official" FoF figures are in the works: http://www.elhiemfigures.com/ Not sure why that's necessary, but okay.
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Jul 14, 2011 16:39
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Well, I now have 157 tiny metal Communists to paint. Quick question on basing- I'm going to be basing after painting (this is for FoW, so mostly 4-5 guys on a stand), which I haven't done before so any pointers to avoid spoiling my (barely adequate) painting would be appreciated!
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Jul 14, 2011 16:58
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Lobster God posted:Well, I now have 157 tiny metal Communists to paint. Just be careful and be prepared to clean up boots and trousers if you slip with the brush.
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Jul 14, 2011 19:24
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Colonial Air Force posted:Looks like some "official" FoF figures are in the works: http://www.elhiemfigures.com/
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Jul 14, 2011 20:36
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A Blitzkrieg Commander battle report for you all with loads of pics. http://wwiiwargaming.blogspot.com/2011/07/hauptkampflinie-san-serotonin.html I got a royal kicking....
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Jul 17, 2011 15:29
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Lobster God posted:Well, I now have 157 tiny metal Communists to paint. I've had really good results by painting the little stub the soldiers stand on to match the ground color I'm going to use. This way I end up with a safety zone around each figure that's pretty easy to avoid. Also, use a wash of some sort, it helps a lot at this scale. Edited for clarity Conan the Librarian fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jul 17, 2011 19:03
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