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Cap flips up (there's a tiny catch opposite the hinge), nut comes off, then flip the wiper arm out (taking the pressure off the post) and it pops right off.
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Jun 30, 2011 02:49
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| # ? Jun 13, 2024 06:03 |
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THE GIRLFRIEND'S 1996 960 with 207k+ threw a P0303 the other day; misfire on cylinder #3. I replaced the plugs today and started it up: still running like a tank. Swapped out the coil on 3 with #4 and got two new codes out of it P0300 and 0304, and my logic suggested "oh hey, the coil is bad." Bought a new coil and replaced the bad one and....... the CEL is still on and it's still running pretty drat rough. Any ideas?
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Jun 30, 2011 04:06
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Clear your codes and start it up, what codes do you get? There's always the possibility your replacement part is bad. Keep moving the suspect around and see.
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Jun 30, 2011 12:46
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Make sure the coil is seated on the plug. I know sounds dumb but I did it once and ripped apart half the car trying to figure out it wasn't making full contact.
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Jun 30, 2011 14:25
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Splizwarf posted:Clear your codes and start it up, what codes do you get? '96 960 is OBDII - there's no way to reset the codes without a reader.
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Jun 30, 2011 23:57
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How does he know what his codes are without a reader? 
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Jul 1, 2011 01:43
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She got them read again today and it still came up with random misfire. She took her dad's advice and put some Lucas injector cleaner in the gas. Maybe it'll work.
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Jul 1, 2011 01:56
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Just a P0300 and not a P0304, and the coil from 3 is still on 4? Because that would be progress, of a sort.
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Jul 1, 2011 02:05
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I swapped 3 -> 4, and the coil from 4 is still on #3. She bought a new coil and I put that in #4. I'll have to ask her again what specific codes she has.
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Jul 1, 2011 02:16
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Anyone interested in a running 1986 M46 744TI for $600 from Canadaland? I'm in a death by a thousand cuts kind of state right now and just worn out with projects.
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Jul 3, 2011 04:51
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Goddammit Bulk, I'm in the middle of moving and spending my life savings to do it. 
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Jul 3, 2011 16:43
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Phone posted:I swapped 3 -> 4, and the coil from 4 is still on #3. She bought a new coil and I put that in #4. I'll have to ask her again what specific codes she has. Check the connectors. It's a common problem--oil ruins the insulators around the plug contacts, and when you go to plug the coilpacks in, one or both contacts push out the back of the connector, while the plastic connector body seats normally. So it looks like plugged right in. Basically, the metal part of the connector contacts should be flush with the front face of the plastic connector body, not pushed back at all.
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Jul 3, 2011 19:53
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Bulk Vanderhuge posted:Anyone interested in a running 1986 M46 744TI for $600 from Canadaland? I'm in a death by a thousand cuts kind of state right now and just worn out with projects. Where bouts in Canadaland?
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Jul 4, 2011 14:22
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Corrupt Cypher posted:Where bouts in Canadaland? Winnipeg. The main thing is that it needs a new sunroof cassette and headliner along with surface rust that should be taken care of, boost gauge and lack of cold start high idle (ECT sender?)
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Jul 4, 2011 22:41
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Looks like tomorrow I'm putting a down payment on a 75 Volvo C-304. Exciting! The engine isn't in the best of shape, I'll likely need to replace head gasket and rear seal. Any of you volvoids have experience doing this on a B-30A engine?
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Jul 11, 2011 07:03
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No, but I'm requesting photos. We didn't get those in the US, but they're the grandparents of my v40.
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Jul 11, 2011 21:08
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I'm in the US too.  Will take my own photos as soon as I get it shipped up here to colorado, it's currently down in LA California. They're pretty rare in the US, I'm surprised I was able to find one and not have to import it. [fakeedit] I'll post some of the photos I do have of it when I get home.
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Jul 11, 2011 21:40
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Also hit me up to get on the CO Volvo club mailing list, and bring it to a meet. Some of us Volvo nuts would love to see an anomalous Volvo first hand.
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Jul 11, 2011 22:30
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Will do - I'm going to need as much support as I can to get this thing back into top form, A lot of the original parts are missing, so I'm going to either need to find replacements or fabricate something similar.
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Jul 11, 2011 22:42
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Anyone ever work on the automatic climate control in an early ('83) 760? There's a beautiful example for sale in my area that runs like a top (K-Jet V6, ho!), but the climate control doesn't seem to work (fan doesn't come on, AC compressor doesn't cycle), and I'm not sure whether it would be a weekend project or a Herculean undertaking to fix it. The vacuum doors all cycle properly, and the AC system was converted to R134, so it seems like the potential for it to work is there. The motor fuse looked a little melty, so is it possible that the fan has seized? Normally, I wouldn't even consider such a thing, but this one only has 95K on it or so, is completely rust-free, and since it belonged to a dealer's family, it was kept up well. It's too expensive at the moment, but I'm going to keep an eye on it and see if it gets any cheaper.
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Jul 11, 2011 23:31
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Been away for a while and am now the owner of a 1982 242 Turbo with an M46 transmission. It successfully completed the inaugural journey to it's temporary home close to the Mexican border yesterday - 300 miles through the New Mexico desert. Some time in the next few months I plan to drive it 1500 miles north. It has 155K miles. The car is basically straight - there is some rust on both rear quarter panels and the paint has been baked into primer in the sun. Interior is mostly intact but faded and grubby. The dash is cracked into a million pieces and has a bad after market piece of molded carpet on it.The console is kind of loose from being removed and the speakers and stereo look like there were installed with framing nails. The engine does not idle well and it runs very rough at low rpms when vacuum (as displayed by the after market boost gauge) is high and gets better when you give it gas and vacuum drops to below 10. I drove it nearly the whole 300 miles at around 80 mph and it seemed to run well at that speed but going slow through towns was almost unbearable due to the stuttering and hesitation. It has K-jet fuel injection. When warm, the idle will modulate rhythmically between 500 and 1500 at a regular 1-2 second interval. About half way through the trip the smell of mothball scented gas was distinct from under the hood although I do not think that bad gas is the main problem. I got a little over 20mpg (estimated because I immediately broke the odometer by resetting it while moving). Although I have an 89 240, I am clueless on turbos and k-jet. Even with these problems, it is hard not to smile when the turbo spools up. I will post more on the car later but right now does this engine condition have an obvious solution to anyone - or at least a shortlist of culprits? I need to read on Kjet to see how it measures air - it seems like a low air to fuel thing to me.    
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Jul 12, 2011 01:19
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First thing to check out is the engine wiring harness. If that's good, then read the greenbooks on k-jet.org and familiarize yourself with the troubleshooting process that they contain. If you're going to fix it properly, you need a set of pressure gauges, a dwell meter, and the mixture adjustment wrench that IPD sells, to start. K-Jet hates bad gas, vacuum leaks/unmetered air, and improper fuel and control pressure.
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Jul 12, 2011 01:34
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Photos.     This will be my first Volvo, for what that's worth. v  v
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Jul 12, 2011 02:10
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Any 740/940 guys know how the front seat rails come apart? I want to clean out all the crap that's clogging up the tracks and I took out the rear roll pins but I can't remember what I need to do next 
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Jul 12, 2011 02:16
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zundfolge posted:First thing to check out is the engine wiring harness. Your reply filled me with joy.
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Jul 12, 2011 04:25
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ch1mp posted:Your reply filled me with joy. Was it crispy, or extra-crispy? 
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Jul 12, 2011 04:50
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zundfolge posted:The vacuum doors all cycle properly, and the AC system was converted to R134, so it seems like the potential for it to work is there. The motor fuse looked a little melty, so is it possible that the fan has seized? Yes. The fan motors were notorious for clogged drains that killed the motor bearings and caused the melty fuse thing. Fortunately there are upgraded units and it's easy to change. It could be a few other things as well like the resistor pack or maybe a temp sensor. But yeah start with the fan. I never liked the ACC. Also that PRV motor is the one susceptible to oil galley clogging which will starve the cams of oil. Make sure it's really clean, if you have an oil change history even better.
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Jul 12, 2011 07:45
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When you said 304 I thought you meant the 3-series hatchbacks. Holy poo poo. I, uh, well, you bought the other kind of vehicle I like, actually. And on a somewhat related note, check this magnificent bastard out:   My guess is a track hauler, where the truck is office and sleeper. I like to think there's some C30s in the trailer.
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Jul 12, 2011 14:08
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Splizwarf posted:When you said 304 I thought you meant the 3-series hatchbacks. Holy poo poo. I, uh, well, you bought the other kind of vehicle I like, actually. And on a somewhat related note, check this magnificent bastard out: Yeah the only thing I'm not 100% sold on is the original power plant: a Volvo B-30A 3.0 liter carb'd I6 producing 120 horsepower at best (usually around 110 as they were usually fitted with a lower compression head). I'm not sure if I want to keep it stock, swap in a newer version of the B-30 with better horsepower (and fuel injection), or go the full retard and try and handle a diesel conversion to like a Mercedes OM617 turbo diesel. I'm not sure if other Volvo owners would skin me alive for doing a transplant like that, though.
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Jul 12, 2011 15:45
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LloydDobler posted:Yes. The fan motors were notorious for clogged drains that killed the motor bearings and caused the melty fuse thing. Fortunately there are upgraded units and it's easy to change. It could be a few other things as well like the resistor pack or maybe a temp sensor. But yeah start with the fan. Good deal about the fan. I'm not a huge fan of the ACC concept either, but there's another '84 760 in our local yard that still has the brain in it, so I might go yank that for spares if I get the car. As for the PRV, I'll check into the history, but when I heard it run, there was zero valvetrain noise, and the owner said that the cams had been replaced at some point in the past. I figure if I were to purchase it, giving it a diet of 0W-30 or 5W-30 and keeping up with the changes would probably sustain it.
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Jul 12, 2011 16:07
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Crashed my V70 yesterday. E-didn't-quite-stopped into the back of a people carrier, pushed his swanneck towbar flush into the rear valance, I got out of it with a twisted hood & wrinkled bumper. I got it home fine, took it to my local tyre place who let me put it on the ramp & checked everything out underneath - no damage. None at all, no damage to the plastics or frames or mounting positions etc anywhere. Apart from the hood & bumper it's I argued for like half an hour with my insurers but they won't let me drive it until they've dragged it away to appraise it. They also warned me it'd almost certainly be a writeoff at 11 years old, so I hope they either let me pull it & not declare the damage, or let me buy it back Cat D damaged & throw £100 of scrapyard parts on it. In the meantime my dad has said I can borrow his 2.4T AWD V70 until I get it all sorted out, which is really generous of him, but will gently caress me for 20mg when I'm used to 55mpg & 60 miles per day. Ho hum. Good thing is it's got the wife talking about getting rid of the Peugeot again, she's warming towards the V40 idea if I can find one that's low powered, not leather interior, sub-100k miles in my price range. Should be easy enough when I've got mine fixed. End of the month would have been 1 year since I got it too.
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Jul 12, 2011 20:32
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A tweaked subframe/frame can be hard to spot with a quick visual inspection, just bear that in mind if they do write it off.
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Jul 12, 2011 20:45
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How would I spot it? What am I checking for?
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Jul 12, 2011 21:23
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Is my b21FT supposed to have an oxygen sensor? Because I don't see one anywhere although the green book seems to refer to it - at least for the b21F. Also, I would like to clean the throttle valve and maybe around the air flow sensor plate but the CRC throttle body cleaner spray specifically says not to use on turbo systems. Is this even worth doing - if so what would an appropriate cleaning agent be?
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Jul 14, 2011 01:31
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ch1mp posted:Is my b21FT supposed to have an oxygen sensor? Because I don't see one anywhere although the green book seems to refer to it - at least for the b21F. It's screwed into the bottom of the exhaust manifold behind the turbo. quote:Also, I would like to clean the throttle valve and maybe around the air flow sensor plate but the CRC throttle body cleaner spray specifically says not to use on turbo systems. Is this even worth doing - if so what would an appropriate cleaning agent be? Just give it time to evaporate completely and I'd imagine that you would be fine-you don't want to damage the turbo in the case that some residual cleaner causes a backfire or something.
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Jul 14, 2011 02:59
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Doccers posted:A tweaked subframe/frame can be hard to spot with a quick visual inspection, just bear that in mind if they do write it off. So I should be getting this back in a day or two, I can take my time & do a teardown & proper inspection. What am I liking for? I already know it's drivable & tracks straight. It doesn't shudder or wander and the big plastic radiator cowl/ air guide isn't cracked or broken.
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Jul 14, 2011 06:12
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Cakefool posted:So I should be getting this back in a day or two, I can take my time & do a teardown & proper inspection. What am I liking for? I already know it's drivable & tracks straight. It doesn't shudder or wander and the big plastic radiator cowl/ air guide isn't cracked or broken. Its likely OK then, a subframe out of alignment can have a wheel aimed left/right or off of level up/down, which means it will never drive quite right again.
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Jul 14, 2011 14:21
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Thanks. If/when I get it back post pics as I teardown. I'll likely post a new thread for this question but any of you volvo goons uk based & know anything about re-regging a cat-c/d car?
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Jul 15, 2011 11:33
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Anyone know if a bumper off an early C70 will fit on the same era ('99) V70? I found a C70 in the right colour being broken up not too far away. I know they look different but what's the chances of the mountings etc being different?
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Jul 16, 2011 20:40
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| # ? Jun 13, 2024 06:03 |
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I've recently begun lusting over an S60R (Or Mazdaspeed 6, but these are more impossible to find in decent condition). I am 100% gay for old and new Volvos and It has more of what I want than my current ride, with the AWD bonus for Colorado winters. A car is one of the few things I completely intend to blow my deployment money on. Are there any particular failures in these models? Any "best years"? Generally how long between turbos making GBS threads out? PS: Currently in the middle of the ocean with balls slow internet access. Sure this has been answered somewhere in the 41 pages of this thread. Laranzu fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Jul 17, 2011 |
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Jul 17, 2011 02:52
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