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grover posted:Bricks are quite valuable, you should be selling them, not paying to dispose of them. Why not sell them on craigslist, buy driveway stone for your driveway, and pocket the difference? At the very least, can't hurt to see if anyone bites on your ad. I tried to unload them for free on craigslist a while ago. They're from a chimney I pulled down and are either still mortared together, or quite broken, so no one seems to be interested. I could live without the driveway stone, but I can't think of another way to dispose of the brick without it costing me a fortune.
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Jul 8, 2011 15:27
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wormil posted:My trailer has bolts that stick out way too far and I want to cut them off. I've tried a hacksaw and a metal cutting blade on a saw but on both the teeth just grind down to nothing in a minute. What kind of blade do I need to cut hardened bolts or should I use a grinder. Last ditch effort I could replace all the bolts with shorter ones but there are a quite a few. You might not have been using the right type of blade. Make sure its carbide tipped. I bought one pack of carbide tipped blades for my reciprocating saw a few years ago and I have yet to wear them all out, only had 5 or so in it. I cut metal somewhat frequently, so you shouldn't have worn out a blade on a single bolt. Dragyn posted:I tried to unload them for free on craigslist a while ago. They're from a chimney I pulled down and are either still mortared together, or quite broken, so no one seems to be interested. I could live without the driveway stone, but I can't think of another way to dispose of the brick without it costing me a fortune. Probably you'd have to recycle them. I would call a demolition company and see if you can talk to someone beyond a receptionist and see if they can tell you anything about it, they'd probably know what to do or at least be able to point you in the right direction. Hell they might even be in the business of crushing up brick and concrete and selling the result back to manufacturers. Worth a shot. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 8, 2011 17:56
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The AC unit at my job is filling the tray beneath it and when it fills, the float switch turns the unit off (instead of starting a pump like I'm used to from my experiences with home HVAC). There doesn't even appear to be a pickup in there, and the drain pipe enters above the pan and disappears into the unit. We get to empty it by hand. What's going on here? Is this an "oh poo poo" pan that shouldn't ever fill up unless something's catastrophic? I can't imagine it's designed to evaporate (not in Virginia haha), but there's no visible way to drain it.
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Jul 8, 2011 18:51
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Splizwarf posted:The AC unit at my job is filling the tray beneath it and when it fills, the float switch turns the unit off (instead of starting a pump like I'm used to from my experiences with home HVAC). There doesn't even appear to be a pickup in there, and the drain pipe enters above the pan and disappears into the unit. We get to empty it by hand. Is it indoors? When air is cooled the moisture in it condenses out and has to go somewhere, so I guess this pan is where it goes in lieu of just dumping outside. That's really weird. If possible drill a hole in the bottom and run a line to outdoors and just let it run out somewhere. You'll have to explain its location a bit more. This sounds like poor design if it's the case. If it's at work someone should have installed it with a drain and if they didn't then somebody must have changed something. That's bizarre. Also whatup humid rear end virginia buddy.
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Jul 8, 2011 20:13
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Splizwarf posted:The AC unit at my job is filling the tray beneath it and when it fills, the float switch turns the unit off (instead of starting a pump like I'm used to from my experiences with home HVAC). There doesn't even appear to be a pickup in there, and the drain pipe enters above the pan and disappears into the unit. We get to empty it by hand.
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Jul 8, 2011 21:51
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Not sure if this is the place to ask but I'll go for it: Can I get a recommendation on a AC solution for someone without a window sill that closes up and down? My new apartment's windows open to the left and right. Trying to cool a bedroom. edit: Or, who has experience creating a frame for a sliding window? http://www.instructables.com/id/Mounting-a-Standard-Air-Conditioner-in-a-Sliding-W/ Doesn't look too hard... edit2: Ok it looks a little hard. Would taking a big piece of plywood, cutting a hole in the middle and securing the AC to it, and nailing that whole contraption to the wall over where the window is be a Bad Idea? Its Miller Time fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Jul 8, 2011 |
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Jul 8, 2011 22:45
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I need to murder the hell out of some loving ants. I've got probably around a zillion tiny ants infesting my yard and occasionally making their way into my house. They're the little tiny dark brown colored fuckers - they don't bite or anything, but every morning, my back steps and walk are covered by them.  I've genocided them with a blowtorch, poisoned them with borax mixed with honey, and used commercial ant traps and poison to kill them, but the little assholes keep coming back. And now they're finding their way into my basement through tiny holes in the concrete. Their nest must be enormous. How do I get rid of them? Or, at least, make there be significantly fewer of them?
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Jul 9, 2011 01:23
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Have you tried liberal amounts of diatomeceous earth? That would probably kill the ones getting into the basement, but to get the nest you should probably call an exterminator.
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Jul 9, 2011 02:03
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dur posted:I need to murder the hell out of some loving ants. My last place had a serious summertime ant problem. I had some luck with Terro (which is just borax and corn syrup). I had traps inside the house where they were active and it kept their numbers down, but never killed them all. It does take time because they have to transport the poison back to the colony where it slowly kills the rest of them, and you have to keep checking the traps to make sure there's still liquid and it hasn't dried too much. Maybe your borax and honey was the wrong ratio, or it dried out too fast, or you didn't wait long enough for it to work? If it's a big colony then they could be getting most of their food from places other than the traps and it could take even longer. I'd look into getting Terro stuff since it's relatively cheap and you can take the possibility of mixing errors out of the equation, and it should stay liquid longer. You may want to try the outdoor traps too. On the other hand, if you can afford it and it's bothering you enough then just call in an exterminator.
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Jul 9, 2011 04:02
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dur posted:I need to murder the hell out of some loving ants. Terro works well (borax+sugar) but of course, it seems you've tried it
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Jul 9, 2011 04:38
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I'm pretty sure they're pharaoh or pavement ants, but they're too small to tell the difference without some magnification. They're definitely not argentine ants, at least going off of this site. It's not to the point that I want to call an exterminator, yet. I'll try that Terro and diatomaceous earth over these next few days/weeks.
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Jul 9, 2011 05:02
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SkunkDuster posted:I'd go with a dremel and a pack of cut off wheels. Tried those, they lasted about 2 seconds and barely polished the surface before exploding. grover posted:You could make do with a dremel, but an angle grinder is the right tool for this job and will make very short work of it. Thanks, good excuse for me to buy a grinder. Any particular wheel I should buy for it? Cosmik Debris posted:You might not have been using the right type of blade. Make sure its carbide tipped. I bought one pack of carbide tipped blades for my reciprocating saw a few years ago and I have yet to wear them all out, only had 5 or so in it. I cut metal somewhat frequently, so you shouldn't have worn out a blade on a single bolt. Before buying a grinder I'll check for carbide blades. wormil fucked around with this message at 06:28 on Jul 9, 2011 |
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Jul 9, 2011 06:25
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wormil posted:Thanks, good excuse for me to buy a grinder. Any particular wheel I should buy for it?
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Jul 9, 2011 13:39
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grover posted:If you're just using it for light duty (and I'd hope you are, as a $15 grinder isn't going to stand up to much use...) then any wheel that comes with it is probably fine for anything you need to do. Otherwise, use cutoff wheels for cutting (they're thinner and designed to cut) and grinding wheels for grinding (cutoff wheels can break if you try to grind with them). One note about that: cutoff wheels get used up a LOT faster than grinding wheels. You might want to buy a few extra, depending on how much cutting you need to do.
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Jul 9, 2011 16:13
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kid sinister posted:One note about that: cutoff wheels get used up a LOT faster than grinding wheels. You might want to buy a few extra, depending on how much cutting you need to do. Cutoff wheels also explode really easy if you put too much pressure on them, like pretty much any at all. Go slow, and let the tool do the cutting. If you've already blown up several blades and wheels, the bolts are obviously hard, but you may also just be jamming the hell out of your cutting tool, overheating and destroying its cutting bits.
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Jul 9, 2011 16:33
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It's probably cheaper just to buy new bolts the correct length and replace them all.
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Jul 10, 2011 06:01
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wormil posted:It's probably cheaper just to buy new bolts the correct length and replace them all. Well yeah, but what's the fun in that?
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Jul 10, 2011 08:03
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This is a perfect excuse to buy a new tool, one that will be a huge asset in your toolbox in the future. You'll end up having paid more than $15 in half-assed solutions instead of just using the right tool for the job in the first place. It's cheap, to boot. You won't regret it.
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Jul 10, 2011 11:12
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As much as I hate to knock Harbor Freight (I do shop there a lot), as Grover pointed out a little bit earlier, a $15 grinder won't stand up to much use. The way they make that stuff so cheap is they skimp on the expensive stuff (less copper in the motor = less powerful motor, cheap plastic press-fit shell). That said a harbor freight grinder will do what you want it to do and 9 times out of 10 it will work decently, but it might feel flimsy to you and you should plan on replacing it. Their hand tools are a great deal but I tend to avoid their power tools unless it's for something I don't do often (and if this is something you don't do often then by all means don't shell out for a name brand). I especially can't recommend a $15 harbor freight grinder when you can get a Skil brand grinder from lowes for $13 more, or a porter cable for $25 more. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jul 11, 2011 |
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Jul 11, 2011 14:07
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Our attic space is very very hot. Like melt-your-face Raiders of the Lost Ark hot. We have ridge vents, and two (small) gable vents, but no soffit vents whatsoever because the house (a 2000 sq foot 1960s ranch) doesn't have soffits. Instead, when you look up at the side of the house, you just see the bottom of the roof. The AC vents run through the attic. The previous owner put 20" of insulation in, which seems to be keeping things manageable, but I'm sure that we're losing a lot of cooling via the attic. As, again, it is unbelievably warm in there. I've actually been leaving the attic stairs in the garage down in the hopes that some airflow will happen. How can we cool it down? I know that just adding powered fans will do next to nothing as there's nowhere to draw the air from (b/c no soffit vents). Any experience with any new fangled systems?
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Jul 11, 2011 18:24
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How do you go about spray mounting a 39x59" poster to a 4x8 sheet of foamcore evenly? Foamcore on the ground, spray a line, match up the top, and roll the poster down evenly, spraying as you go? How do you press it flat so there's no bubbles? Got a big poster I want mounted flat and its got lots of warps and stuff. Won't be very pretty.
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Jul 11, 2011 19:07
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Seventyfour posted:How can we cool it down? I know that just adding powered fans will do next to nothing as there's nowhere to draw the air from (b/c no soffit vents). Any experience with any new fangled systems? You could put a fan in one of the gable vents, and it will draw air in from the opposite one.
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Jul 11, 2011 20:05
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Seventyfour posted:Our attic space is very very hot. Like melt-your-face Raiders of the Lost Ark hot. We have ridge vents, and two (small) gable vents, but no soffit vents whatsoever because the house (a 2000 sq foot 1960s ranch) doesn't have soffits. Instead, when you look up at the side of the house, you just see the bottom of the roof.
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Jul 11, 2011 23:03
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My cat decided that my Bose headphones have a delicious cord. At this point Bose is willing to ship me a replacement for $60 or upgrade me to noise cancelling phones for $200. Screw that I have a soldering iron!  If there was only one or two break I would attempt to just solder it, but there are too many breaks to make that practical. What is the best way to go about replacing the cord? Should I buy a cheap pair of phones and cannibalize them or is there a better way? theangryamoeba fucked around with this message at 02:07 on Jul 12, 2011 |
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Jul 12, 2011 02:03
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grover posted:Per building code, you need to have soffit vents- there's a mandated soffit vent area based on the size of the roof. If someone sealed them up, it needs to be fixed. My house has no soffit vents either. More to the point, it has no soffits. It doesn't appear any of the houses in my neighborhood have them either.
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Jul 12, 2011 03:34
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grover posted:Per building code, you need to have soffit vents- there's a mandated soffit vent area based on the size of the roof. If someone sealed them up, it needs to be fixed. If he has exposed rakes, I'm doubting they were ever there. I'd make the gable openings larger & install a fan Fun dealing with pre-code construction, ain't it? When I built my garage in 2003, I had to use 2x8x12 joists tied together with 2x6 rafters, 24" on-center, and bolted 2x4 purlins to minimize joist deflection & translate the load to the top plate (so I could walk up there with 7' of clearance). Also used 3/4" plywood as a roof deck. The loving 5/8" nuts, bolts & washers cost over $100.  My neighbor's garage, about the same footprint & roof pitch, but built in 1941? Two-by-four joists, each 16' long, 24" on-center, with a couple of 24' long 2x4 rafters (as an afterthought) and no purlins. No sag after 70-years. Go figure. theangryamoeba posted:My cat decided that my Bose headphones have a delicious cord. At this point Bose is willing to ship me a replacement for $60 or upgrade me to noise cancelling phones for $200. Radio Shack sells cord & jacks. Solder away! PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Jul 12, 2011 |
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Jul 12, 2011 04:39
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theangryamoeba posted:My cat decided that my Bose headphones have a delicious cord. At this point Bose is willing to ship me a replacement for $60 or upgrade me to noise cancelling phones for $200. If there is room for it, you could try adding a 3.5mm headphone jack to them, so that you can remove/replace the cord any time. My noise cancelling headphones came this way and it's pretty nice. Probably use some epoxy to secure the jack.
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Jul 12, 2011 06:19
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Not an Anthem posted:How do you go about spray mounting a 39x59" poster to a 4x8 sheet of foamcore evenly? Foamcore on the ground, spray a line, match up the top, and roll the poster down evenly, spraying as you go? How do you press it flat so there's no bubbles? If you care about the poster, just pay to have it mounted. Vacuum mounting is best but second best is one of those mounting machines with a big heat roller. If you really want to do it yourself, just start at one end and roll it out, pressing out bubbles as you go with either a large squeegee or wooden roller. Don't worry about getting it on the foamcore straight, just trim it afterward.
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Jul 12, 2011 07:41
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PainterofCrap posted:If he has exposed rakes, I'm doubting they were ever there. I'd make the gable openings larger & install a fan
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Jul 12, 2011 10:51
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I would think that'd be a huge risk for mold growth
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Jul 12, 2011 13:39
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grover posted:Per building code, you need to have soffit vents- there's a mandated soffit vent area based on the size of the roof. If someone sealed them up, it needs to be fixed. There's no soffit, nothing was sealed up. It kind of looks like this (minus the bird blocking, which is maybe my best option): http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LM3vwMwAJPQ/TbCJAkUjm6I/AAAAAAAADUc/IQmqBxHEXw0/s1600/DSC01584.JPG
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Jul 12, 2011 15:43
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While we're talking about attic vents, I've been wanting to put a solar powered fan in one end of my attic. I was up there the other day, and noticed that there's a framing member of some sort going right up the middle of the vents, all the way from the ridge of the roof down below the floor of the attic. I'm assuming that is a load bearing member and cutting it would be a Bad Thing. I'm not going to be able to get a fan in there with that beam in the way, am I?
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Jul 12, 2011 16:00
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My dad recently reroofed his 1930s house. It was previously cedar shingles over slats with no venting other than the gaps between the shingles. That worked well enough for 80 years, but the short lifespan and high cost of repair/replacement got the best of him. Now, he has asphalt shingles with ridge vents, but nothing for intake (no soffit vents) except a dormer window with a generic box fan perched in it. He read something online from an aerodynamics engineer that claims soffit vents don't really do a whole lot. Assuming a roof is vented by either dormer or gable vents, I can see where that might be true. As I understand it, ridge vents create a Venturi effect which would give the soffit vents no choice but to pull air in and be effective. He's thinking it might be necessary to build a couple dormers on his roof to house some intake vents, but I'm thinking that soffit vents will work just fine (and be a hell of a lot cheaper and easier) due to the Venturi effect from the ridge vents. Neither of us are roofing experts or aerodynamic engineers, so we're both just fumbling in the dark with our ideas and could use some informed opinions. My other concern is with the wording of the 2007 Minnesota Building code: MN Building Code posted:Minimum area: The total net-free ventilating area shall not be less than 1:150 of the area of the space ventilated exempt that the total area is (A) permitted to be reduced to 1:300, provided at least 50 percent (B) and not more than 80 percent of the required ventilating area is provided by ventilators located in the upper portion of the space to be ventilated at least 3 feet (914 mm) above eave or cornice vents with the balance of the required ventilation provided by eave or cornice vents. I assume (A) includes ridge vents. Is that correct? (B) is the part that is really confusing me. Let's say he has a 3000 square foot roof and (A) applies so we are working with the 1:300 rule. The wording implies that he must have a minimum of 5 square feet of ridge vent, but not more than 8 square feet of it? Is it actually saying that you need a minimum of 10 square feet of venting total (with no maximum) and the ratio of upper to lower vent area must be somewhere between 50:50 and 80:20?
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Jul 12, 2011 16:45
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I am making my own doggie door, and really I've got my own insert made and everything the issue I have right now is obtaining something to use for the plastic. Big box (home depot/lowes) stores look at me like I'm stupid and suggest I buy the much more expensive kit. I just need a large piece of clear vinyl I can cut down why is this so hard. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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Jul 12, 2011 17:46
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MuffinMan posted:I just need a large piece of clear vinyl I can cut down why is this so hard. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Since you say vinyl, I assume you are looking for a clear flexible flap. Instead of asking for clear vinyl, ask for door mats or carpet runners. If they don't know what a carpet runner is, tell them it is the piece of plastic you put under a computer chair on a carpeted surface.
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Jul 12, 2011 18:05
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Is there anything other than acetone that can remove superglue but isn't likely to damage the finish of a hardwood floor?
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Jul 13, 2011 00:05
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Seventyfour posted:There's no soffit, nothing was sealed up. It kind of looks like this (minus the bird blocking, which is maybe my best option): http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LM3vwMwAJPQ/TbCJAkUjm6I/AAAAAAAADUc/IQmqBxHEXw0/s1600/DSC01584.JPG SkunkDuster posted:I assume (A) includes ridge vents. Is that correct? grover fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jul 13, 2011 |
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Jul 13, 2011 02:58
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GWBBQ posted:Is there anything other than acetone that can remove superglue but isn't likely to damage the finish of a hardwood floor? It might work to use naphtha on a rag to try to wipe it off. Make sure you have another rag wet with water to wipe down the area afterwards so as not to give the naphtha time to dissolve the polyurethane. No guarantees this will work well but I can't think of anything off the top of my head that will dissolve superglue that won't damage the finish. Naphtha is kind of a lighter hydrocarbon that was marketed as a cleaner for a time and is widely used in the chemical industry for cleaning. You can get it at home depot or lowes with the paint thinners.
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Jul 13, 2011 04:50
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Is there any kind of paintbrush that's built to get in between the slats of wood on a porch? Fairly deep, like 3" or so, with about a .5" gap. Or am I better off finding a sprayer?
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Jul 13, 2011 14:05
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grover posted:If that's the case and there's nowhere to put vents low in the roof, there may not be any other way. Heat is one thing, but moisture is the real threat- there absolutely must be flowing ventilation to remove the moist air that would otherwise be trapped beneath the roof. I've seen the results of that after thirty years, and it's ugly. Best part is homeowners are puzzled as to how their roof rotted from the inside out. jackpot posted:Is there any kind of paintbrush that's built to get in between the slats of wood on a porch? Fairly deep, like 3" or so, with about a .5" gap. Spray. Or just pour the paint on & mop  No, really. Spray.
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Jul 14, 2011 03:31
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