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Could I have done any damage, really, with one pull? I just feel really bad about it. Anything that wouldn't show up till after five years/60k miles?
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Jul 13, 2011 05:55
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Could I have done any damage, really, with one pull? I just feel really bad about it. Anything that wouldn't show up till after five years/60k miles? No. If anything, it was probably good for it.
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Jul 13, 2011 05:57
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Could I have done any damage, really, with one pull? I just feel really bad about it. Anything that wouldn't show up till after five years/60k miles? if it did anything bad, you'd most likely find out well before that. subaru's are pretty tough, and most of what you find after 5 years are normal wear items, unless it was dogged most of it's early life by a hooning teen learning to drive a stick. even then, they usually can take most of it.
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Jul 13, 2011 05:57
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Lord Gaga posted:My ball joints are bad and my tie rods arent bad but are none too fresh. My tires are like mountains and valleys after 20,000-25,000 miles as a result. (HTR ZIIIs) Any advice on this? I tried google but got people who either just installed them and were like feels great! (no poo poo brand new poly bushings are better than your 10 year old ones with 100,000 miles? Awesome. Helpful.) or who were like eBay parts?! Cant be good. Go buy these for three times as much dont be dum.
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Jul 13, 2011 06:02
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Any other input on the near redline experience in a 260 mile old STi? I just did this and regret it, but don't really feel like a warm engine moving at high speed could really be bad for the car. I would think if i do that every shift during the break in that wouldn't be good though. As said, it's actually not that bad a thing to zing the red line once or twice in breakin period.
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Jul 13, 2011 06:16
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You absolutely fine, most everything seals within the first couple of miles anyway. Just be sure to change your oil, filter, (and preferably tune) at 1k.
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Jul 13, 2011 07:04
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Cat Terrist posted:As said, it's actually not that bad a thing to zing the red line once or twice in breakin period. I've actually read reports from guys who race motorcycles who swear that you should break the motor in HARD. The guy, and I apologize in advance for not having the source at hand, had broken in motors following both the standard take it easy method and the break it in hard method. If I remember correctly, he actually had better compression on the motors he had broken in hard. Granted it was only a few percentage difference between the two methods, but certainly showed to me that the break in doesn't have to be driving miss daisy for 500 miles.
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Jul 13, 2011 07:45
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Subaru have told me to drive it like a loving stole it but not to exceed 4500 rpm. But to zing the red line once or twiceaint a bad thing so the drive it liek you stole it idea does seem to have something to it. So what's this MY11 pistons from glass thing? IS there proof?
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Jul 13, 2011 08:24
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not 2011. 05+ when they changed the casting. I have a whole box of pistons missing ringlands and know guys at the dealership who are rebuilding stock sub-3000 mile motors under warranty. By just dropping in another poo poo piston. Lord Gaga- if the car is any lower than stock just get the whiteline roll center kit. If you want to replace bushings a whiteline ALK, TiC rear suspension package, and subframe lock bolts covers just about everything for about $550. I've been meaning to put together a package actually.
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Jul 13, 2011 09:24
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Welp, that sucked. O2 sensor - 1 JayKay - 0 I tried replacing my O2 sensor with no luck this morning. Jacked up the car, removed the wheel and despite all my effort and PB Blaster, I couldn't get the stupid sensor to budge. Part of my problem seems to be that the 22mm crows foot socket I have was slightly too big/out of spec and was a very loose fit on the sensor. It seemed like all I was going to do was round the crap out of the sensor. Any suggestions? Edit: I think I'm just going to try to PB Blast the crap out of it and let it sit for awhile. Then go at it again with a breaker bar. I'm just worried I'm going to round the crap out of the o2 sensor. JayKay fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Jul 13, 2011 |
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Jul 13, 2011 13:27
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:Any other input on the near redline experience in a 260 mile old STi? I just did this and regret it, but don't really feel like a warm engine moving at high speed could really be bad for the car. I would think if i do that every shift during the break in that wouldn't be good though. Most of the breakin happens in the first few miles when the port and dealership employees along with any test drivers are beating the poo poo out of it anyway. (I find it weird that in the US cars can be sold as new that have been test driven) It's fine and was probably redlined cold before you bought it. sanchez fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Jul 13, 2011 |
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Jul 13, 2011 13:58
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Thanks for the input. My mind much more at ease knowing it wasn't bad and possibly even good for it. Also, I did buy the car with 6 miles on it. Made a deposit before it hit the dealership's lot. No one drove the car except a sales assistant who put gas in it. She did come back with a smile talking about what a great car it is though...
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Jul 13, 2011 14:25
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jamal posted:not 2011. 05+ when they changed the casting. I have a whole box of pistons missing ringlands and know guys at the dealership who are rebuilding stock sub-3000 mile motors under warranty. By just dropping in another poo poo piston. I was told by a dealer in Arizona that most of the ringland issues outside of the '08's came from the poor stock map that ran very lean. The dealership manager and service manager I bought mine from both told me to get a reflash/downpipe immediately - that this was likely significantly safer on terrible Arizona gas than running the stock map (as well as quite a bit more fun). God how I miss that dealership.
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Jul 13, 2011 15:01
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Car I thought was all stock but apparently it has perrin end links in the rear so I am going to have to see what all is done to it. It sticks to the road very very very well. Unbelievably well in fact. I am thinking maybe the front and rear sway bar have been done already and the bushings along with. Ill measure with a caliper soon. $550 on that setup is quite a bit more than what I am talking about which is mostly replacing worn front suspension components though. What is stock swaybar size on an 02 WRX? 20mm/20mm F/R?
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Jul 13, 2011 15:10
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Even on a new car with a good, safe stage 2 protune, it generally only takes one bad tank of gas to blow the engine. This recently happened to a guy near me with an '09 WRX.. rod knock (already had the '09 WRX engine problem corrected). On the other hand, I've seen guys go 60k without a problem.
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Jul 13, 2011 15:20
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blargle posted:Even on a new car with a good, safe stage 2 protune, it generally only takes one bad tank of gas to blow the engine. This recently happened to a guy near me with an '09 WRX.. rod knock (already had the '09 WRX engine problem corrected). On the other hand, I've seen guys go 60k without a problem. Isn't that what knock sensors are supposed to prevent?
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Jul 13, 2011 15:25
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JayKay posted:O2 sensor - 1 Let the PB blaster sit for awhile and then give it ago. If that doesn't work, hit it with a propane torch and then immediately cool it with a can of compressed air turned upside down (should see liquid spurting out). You might have to do this a few times. I wouldn't keep using that crows foot if it's not fitting tightly on the bolt. Try something tighter, maybe an adjustable wrench of some sort.
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Jul 13, 2011 16:27
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sanchez posted:Isn't that what knock sensors are supposed to prevent? There's only so much you can do with a knock sensor.
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Jul 13, 2011 23:06
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I'm not an expert on engine internals but I've wondered if it's possible for someone to make a stronger or thicker cast piston that could just be dropped in. Maybe using MAT casting or something. A piston that could run forever at 375 whp would satisfy 90% of the mod community.
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Jul 14, 2011 00:22
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blargle posted:I'm not an expert on engine internals but I've wondered if it's possible for someone to make a stronger or thicker cast piston that could just be dropped in.
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Jul 14, 2011 00:25
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Yeah, but if you don't have to split the block and hone it, it would be cheaper.
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Jul 14, 2011 00:42
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sanchez posted:Isn't that what knock sensors are supposed to prevent? In addition to what CatTerrist said, the knock sensor in the WRX/STi isn't very good as compared to what higher end vehicles (BMW/Mercedes) are sporting (correct me if I'm wrong though). In fact, if you have an accessport and log for a bit, you'll notice weird false knock events at low RPM's - almost all of which will come from cylinder 4, which (from what I've heard) is the closest one to the knock sensor.
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Jul 14, 2011 01:59
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blargle posted:Yeah, but if you don't have to split the block and hone it, it would be cheaper. How do you remove Subaru pistons without splitting the block?
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Jul 14, 2011 02:16
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This guy does it, unless I'm missing something. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmlNIaapInk
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Jul 14, 2011 02:33
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Welll huh. I learnt something. Not sure it would be advised as you really should do a hone when changing psitons.
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Jul 14, 2011 03:34
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ickna posted:Don't worry about it, especially since you have a warranty Search my posts for my rant about trying to get my 2011 WRX fixed by a dealer. The Dealer is not required to honor warranty work on your car for any reason per their discretion and according to SOA they have no power to make them do any warranty work on your car as long as they deem it not an immediate safety hazard. Electrical gremlins, ground faults and a headlight/blinker that doesn't work. TOTALLY SAFE CAUSE IT'S PASSENGER SIDE.  I will never buy another new subaru after this as long as I live.
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Jul 14, 2011 04:36
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Bob Log posted:Search my posts for my rant about trying to get my 2011 WRX fixed by a dealer.
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Jul 14, 2011 04:52
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When my Outback was new in 98 it had a grounding issue with the passenger blinker and kept blowing the fuse, dealer fixed it for free without question. Sounds like your dealer is a piece of poo poo.
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Jul 14, 2011 05:17
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Bob Log posted:
Why didnt you rear end ream the cunts? That's a poo poo dealer and would deserve it
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Jul 14, 2011 06:09
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Cat Terrist posted:Welll huh. I learnt something. It is possible to hone the block while still together... albeit it would be easier in his situation if the block were on a stand.
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Jul 14, 2011 07:11
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Cat Terrist posted:Why didnt you rear end ream the cunts? That's a poo poo dealer and would deserve it I know Santa Cruz will fix it but it's driving from where I live (near windsor, ca) to Santa Cruz to get it fixed. The Car's gotten rear ended and front ended since(while stopped and while parked while I was in work respectively) and I don't have very much free time due to a job with a 90+ hour workweek to get the Hours and Hours of repair work that needs to be done. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 07:46 on Jul 14, 2011 |
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Jul 14, 2011 07:38
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thealphabetsez posted:It is possible to hone the block while still together... albeit it would be easier in his situation if the block were on a stand. With the conrods in the block? Not going to work
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Jul 14, 2011 10:47
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This might belong in the stupid questions thread, but should I take the car to a dealer for the 1k oil change? I would do it myself but I want receipts...
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Jul 14, 2011 15:59
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:This might belong in the stupid questions thread, but should I take the car to a dealer for the 1k oil change? I would do it myself but I want receipts... So go to the dealer?
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Jul 14, 2011 16:00
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Bob Log posted:It's been to Maita Subaru, the Roseville Subaru, Napa Subaru and Santa Rosa not just one dealer. This is MONTHS now I have been playing this game. The routine is I bring the car in, tell them the problems, they give me some lame excuse and give me the car back a few days later. I escalate as far as I can go and they say "Look we've looked it over and it's in perfectly serviceable condition, bring it back when it's displaying the particularly severe issues hurf blurf" and initiate Subaru of America and the Dealer going back and forth finger pointing until SOA concedes they have no power to help me do anything and the dealer tells me tough poo poo not his problem. From speaking to other dealers they're worried about the amount of work the car needs claiming they won't get reimbursed from SOA and I sure as gently caress won't pay. You should just sue SOA at this point though. SOA certainly has the power to get the dealer to do something, they're egging you the gently caress on. They say, we're going to pay for this, fix his poo poo, it is part of our dealer agreement.
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Jul 14, 2011 16:19
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So is it firm that the '12 Imprezas are going to be out in August? I can't seem to find anything other than "later this year" coming from SOA. Totally seperate question: am I an idiot for wanting an 03 WRX? Is it ridiculous to consider swapping in a 2.5 and kind of slowly making it awesome? I wouldn't be racing or anything, but I've always wanted a stupid fast Subaru, and the more I learn about cars, the more I think I don't really want anything else. That said, until the next redesign, the early models are my favorites aesthetically. So am I dumb to consider throwing 10k or so at a used WRX?
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Jul 15, 2011 02:23
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The Jabberwocky posted:Totally seperate question: am I an idiot for wanting an 03 WRX? Is it ridiculous to consider swapping in a 2.5 and kind of slowly making it awesome? I wouldn't be racing or anything, but I've always wanted a stupid fast Subaru, and the more I learn about cars, the more I think I don't really want anything else. That said, until the next redesign, the early models are my favorites aesthetically. So am I dumb to consider throwing 10k or so at a used WRX? Yes and no. Yes, bcause just getting a 2.5l WRX is cheaper option than swapping and loving around. No because making awesome WRX's is great fun and if you can get an 06 for cheap to make stupidly quick, do it.
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Jul 15, 2011 03:04
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Cat Terrist posted:Yes and no. Yes, bcause just getting a 2.5l WRX is cheaper option than swapping and loving around. No because making awesome WRX's is great fun and if you can get an 06 for cheap to make stupidly quick, do it. Yeah that's basically my thought process. I'm not looking to be particularly economical or whatever. I figure I could spend 35-40k on a new sports car and then more on top of that making it awesome, or I can spend 10k on an older WRX and then have the difference to gently caress around with doing silly tinkering and making it something that I really really love. I just was checking to make sure there wasn't anything inherently stupid (besides the obvious) in picking the latter option. You seem to be of a like mind in that respect, though, which is good. Anyone have experience doing a 2.0 to 2.5 swap? I'm assuming that would be something Jamal is familiar with.
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Jul 15, 2011 04:05
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Are you talking a full STI swap or just the 2.5 turbo? Pretty much everything (meaning stuff that isn't the motor/directly related bits) is the same except for the front brakes and the fuel pump, I think. While your at it, get the STI steering rack. It's fantastic.
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Jul 15, 2011 04:13
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The Jabberwocky posted:Yeah that's basically my thought process. I'm not looking to be particularly economical or whatever. I figure I could spend 35-40k on a new sports car and then more on top of that making it awesome, or I can spend 10k on an older WRX and then have the difference to gently caress around with doing silly tinkering and making it something that I really really love. I just was checking to make sure there wasn't anything inherently stupid (besides the obvious) in picking the latter option. You seem to be of a like mind in that respect, though, which is good. Anyone have experience doing a 2.0 to 2.5 swap? I'm assuming that would be something Jamal is familiar with. So you mean exactly my car then? I might have some experience in this area... If you're just going to drop a 2.5l in it, pick one up with an already blown motor. Should be rather easy to talk the guy down on price if the motor needs to be replaced.
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Jul 15, 2011 04:20
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