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TastyAvocado posted:Wanna play some VANQUISH now.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 07:00 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 14:03 |
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Bluemilker posted:I swear, I tried to thin my paints. I really did. But they wound up either super-liquidy, spreading everywhere, or not liquid enough, and leaving gloppy patches. Thinning paints takes some getting used to. I'm sure you've seen it here before, "consistency of milk" and what not. You won't get it right all the time even after doing it hundreds of times, but I find that I'd rather have my paints be a little too thin than not thin enough. Helpful way to measure (for myself at least) is after you add water, when you pull the paint out across the palette and it starts to contract back into itself, you're about where you want to be. But, all and all, you are off to a good start. The rest is just practice.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 07:05 |
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Crayvex posted:I'm not an expert either. I wore a similar uniform in marching band. I was under the impression that the epaulets (shoulder things) can look like any color. Doh! I can't repaint the 120+ other guys! When I looked at him next to the troops I noticed that they also had the epaulets in the same color, so it works since it is their uniform. The clothing of your future space army men don't have to automatically look like how I have seen similar articles here and now. I didn't want to nitpick, I was really looking for your knowledge about army uniforms or thoughts about color theory. So seriously, they look good!
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 08:14 |
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Sole.Sushi posted:Thinning paints takes some getting used to. I'm sure you've seen it here before, "consistency of milk" and what not. You won't get it right all the time even after doing it hundreds of times, but I find that I'd rather have my paints be a little too thin than not thin enough. Helpful way to measure (for myself at least) is after you add water, when you pull the paint out across the palette and it starts to contract back into itself, you're about where you want to be. But, all and all, you are off to a good start. The rest is just practice. Always put less on the brush than you think you need too. This is the most common reason for paint going everywhere.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 10:08 |
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Bhyo posted:Always put less on the brush than you think you need too. This is the most common reason for paint going everywhere. Spot on advice right here: thinner paints especially need to be controlled more so than thicker paints, but the extra effort is well worth it.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 10:11 |
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Spent a bit more time on this guy than on some of the others, I think the effort paid off but drat if highlighting the feathers isn't cumbersome.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 10:36 |
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You talented gently caress, stop making me cream myself every time you post.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 10:42 |
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TastyAvocado posted:I had the worst painting day today. I took a break from my marines to try a bunch of new techniques and work on a couple of effects I wanted for when I do my next Infinity group.... it was a disaster. I couldn't get anything to work out, nothing I tried looked anything like how I wanted, even when I tried again with techniques I'm comfortable with. I feel like I have no idea what I have to do to get to the next level of painting.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 10:51 |
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I just varnished Scaverous so i'm gonna post some pics:
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 12:28 |
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Fyrbrand posted:Took some better pics per Ashcan's suggestion. Are they looking around that storage tank looking for four turtles and a rat? I sure was... Well Frybrand, what do you have to say for yourself?
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 13:10 |
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Indolent Bastard posted:Are they looking around that storage tank looking for four turtles and a rat? I sure was... I just found those models the other day. If I can remember where I put them, I'll get them done this week.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 13:18 |
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richyp posted:Spent a bit more time on this guy than on some of the others, I think the effort paid off but drat if highlighting the feathers isn't cumbersome. Lemme guess, you highlighted each individual feather and it still only took you 20 minutes. Stop making me hate you richyp.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 14:21 |
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Lemme guess, you highlighted each individual feather and it still only took you 20 minutes. It's not drybrushing, it's two-brush wetblending. RICHYP VVV I will hunt you down, eat your brain, and my Morgellon's Organ will teach me all your secrets, richyp. Blade_of_tyshalle fucked around with this message at 14:34 on Jul 14, 2011 |
# ? Jul 14, 2011 14:24 |
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^^^ More of a two brush blending drybrush, one dry, one wet. Paint on the dark blue mixed with some paint drying retarder, then brush in the lighter shade using a drybrush style stroke to pull the lighter colour towards the edges. Followed by a light drybrush of the armour colour on the tips. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Lemme guess, you highlighted each individual feather and it still only took you 20 minutes. 4hrs, but I did highlight the feathers richyp fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jul 14, 2011 |
# ? Jul 14, 2011 14:25 |
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Bistromatic posted:I just varnished Scaverous so i'm gonna post some pics: This looks real nice
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 14:41 |
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richyp posted:4hrs, but I did highlight the feathers Wow, that's about how long it takes me to paint. I feel better now!
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 14:45 |
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I decided to try and make a few blood bowlers for a necromantic team and here are the early results. Still working on the wights and ghouls but I'm fairly happy with my flesh golems and werewolves. First time using metallic paint and I really like the effect a black wash gave to the FG's shoulder pad. Its hard to see in the picture but the taller golem's longer arm has a metal medical brace and the shorter one's gimpy leg has a similar rig.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 16:00 |
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Here's my finished CSM test model: I still can't decide on a gun colour however, so i really need some more ideas.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 18:34 |
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Lungboy posted:Here's my finished CSM test model: Navy blue
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 18:40 |
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Black.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 18:41 |
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Chenghiz posted:Black. Agreed with this.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 18:45 |
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I was thinking black would be too dark, but with the pale basing i think it might be ok.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 18:56 |
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Lungboy posted:I was thinking black would be too dark, but with the pale basing i think it might be ok. Whenever you're worried about something being too black, drybrush highlights onto it that are light. Like light blue.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 19:05 |
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Bistromatic posted:I just varnished Scaverous so i'm gonna post some pics: That's an awesome model (that I've never seen before) and an awesome paint job to go along with it.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 20:58 |
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Motherfuckin' SWARMLORD! Finally done painting up the beast, who is now ready to hand out some bonesword justice on behalf of Hive Kraken. I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. Aside from the serrated edges of its horns (which I thought looked dumb), it's an exact mockup of the Swarmlord pictured in the codex, double-tail and all.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 22:22 |
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Whoah.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 22:24 |
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Scaverous and erebus are the only 2 models that could tempt me to play cryx. Really nice job bistro, did you find assembling him hard? MSP: i am halfway through a chaos army then your guard dude is next. Fix mailed me the model a while ago
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 22:26 |
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PierreTheMime posted:Motherfuckin' SWARMLORD! Wow. This is drat cool.
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# ? Jul 14, 2011 23:50 |
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Lungboy posted:Here's my finished CSM test model: Dark copper? Definitely needs a drum mag.
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 01:11 |
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PierreTheMime posted:Motherfuckin' SWARMLORD!
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 01:22 |
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Holy poo poo I paint things oh cool an ugly rear end seam I didn't Green Stuff crime fighting hog fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Jul 15, 2011 |
# ? Jul 15, 2011 01:39 |
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Attn: Bachtere Re: Witchfate Tor Please post pics of yours, preferably lots of pics, at your earliest convenience tia. (I need them for a secret project.)
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:01 |
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So I have a pretty lovely situation. I've been painting a bunch of models and wanted to make sure that paint was protected, so I had my friend bring me a can of Purity Seal from the UK while they were visiting. Then, I sprayed my models with it. Something went wrong, but I have no idea what. Either the spray got hosed up from being on an airplane or it was too humid outside or it was a bad can or something, but now it looks like my models have a layer of snow on them. I'm pretty sure I'm just loving boned and I have no what do to. Do I get in touch with GW? I assume I can't strip the varnish without stripping the paint. This is fairly upsetting given how much work went into all of my miniatures. Advice? Edit: I tried taking some photos, but it doesn't show up well with the camera I have. Atlas Hugged fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Jul 15, 2011 |
# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:19 |
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Haraksha posted:So I have a pretty lovely situation. I had this happen a couple of times too Dont Panic, bring the can indoors for an hour, then shake it vigorously and spray the can over the models again. Fingers crossed that should fix it.
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:35 |
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How does that fix it? It just sounds like it would add another layer to the existing layer of "snow".
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:41 |
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Haraksha posted:How does that fix it? It just sounds like it would add another layer to the existing layer of "snow". You can also put on a coat of glossy brush on varnish, then after that dries apply a layer of matte varnish. That will restore it.
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:45 |
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Haraksha posted:How does that fix it? It just sounds like it would add another layer to the existing layer of "snow". the spray contains solvent that will dissolve the opaque layer.
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:49 |
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^^^ efbHaraksha posted:How does that fix it? It just sounds like it would add another layer to the existing layer of "snow". The solvents in the spray will break up the deposits that have formed on the model. It usually happens due to humidity. I remember panicing and being skeptical too when it happend the first time, but after reading it online I just shook the poo poo out of the same can and reapplied.
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 07:50 |
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Haraksha posted:Purity Seal If you can, find an alternative varnish: Purity Seal is universally a lovely varnish, and is really never predictable. For recommendations, check the OP in this thread (I personally love Testors brand varnishes, but there are many other good ones, both spray and brush-on).
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 08:05 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 14:03 |
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So I just picked up a new commission to do some miniatures based on this and this. I'm all down for crazy sculpting and painting commissions, but I'm a bit stumped on something: I have all the parts for proto, he's heavily custom, I used parts from a guardian as an armature. His chaingun/hand cannon thingy is gonna be from the obliterator sprue, head from a chaos marauder horseman. You know, general kitbash stuff. What I'm stuck on is his goddamn shield. It would be easy to get a similar bit, but again I have to stress needing a GW bit as base. Right now I see my options are basically to search endlessly for a random piece of plastic that is the right shape or cut two chaos warrior shields in half to make a loosely ovular thing. I'd like it if anyone knew of an actual GW bit (I'm ATTEMPTING to make this tournament legal) I could use since this is going to be a counts as autarch. Last resort I can use the terminator captain storm shield which I have, but I was sort of planning on selling that sprue (or trading it etc). In addition, does anyone know of a company that makes a heroic scale classic American/British style motorcycle? Ideally something close to a Bonneville or a R71. The bike can be any company because its going to be a decorative base object.
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# ? Jul 15, 2011 08:11 |