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Phat_Albert posted:Are there any good reviews of the 690 SMC available online? At this point the DRZ is a known quantity, it'd be interesting to read some reviews online of the 690 that arent youtube comments. Ahem, ask away?! http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/ktm/2009-ktm-690-smc-ar50838.html http://www.cycleworld.com/motorcycle_roadtest/first_ride/all/ktm_690_smc_-_first_ride http://www.visordown.com/road-tests-first-rides/first-ride-2008-ktm-690-smc/5897.html
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Jul 18, 2011 23:05
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Phat_Albert posted:Are there any good reviews of the 690 SMC available online? At this point the DRZ is a known quantity, it'd be interesting to read some reviews online of the 690 that arent youtube comments. I found a couple: http://www.cycleworld.com/motorcycle_roadtest/first_rides_articles/10q4/ktm_690_smc_-_first_ride http://www.visordown.com/road-tests-first-rides/first-ride-2008-ktm-690-smc/5897.html http://www.ktmforum.co.uk/supermoto/24203-duke-3-690-smc-690-test-ride-review.html The last guy pretty much nails it. I mean, what do you want to hear about it that isn't said by it's spec sheet already? It's 300 pounds, Brembo brakes, Magura clutch, a 63hp counterbalanced single. It's got every mod done to it from the factory, there is nothing to mod on it. You might wanna add more hardcore handguards if you're gonna ride it offroad much, oil changes are expensive, and that's really it. The gearbox is a little industrial, but missed shifts are rare as long as you actually shift it like you mean it. Engines seem to be reliable, parts are easy to find, blah blah blah. Buy one, ride it forever. Edit: Goddamnit spiff
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Jul 18, 2011 23:07
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Z3n posted:I found a couple: I dunno what I want to hear, but spec sheets dont tell the whole story. Since we're talking about supermotos, the DRZ's spec sheet isnt all too impressive when compared to KTM's and Huskys and whatever, but its a great bike, that people are enamored with. Really I just want to read about them. I'm saving for another SM bike, and while I know I love DRZ's I'm open to other stuff.
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Jul 19, 2011 01:19
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Phat_Albert posted:I dunno what I want to hear, but spec sheets dont tell the whole story. Since we're talking about supermotos, the DRZ's spec sheet isnt all too impressive when compared to KTM's and Huskys and whatever, but its a great bike, that people are enamored with. Imagine like, the most badass DRZ you could ever possibly think of. Just, dripping with thousands of dollars spent in the most absurd ways, every suspension mod, customized, wheels, built engine, gobs of power, perfect gearing, a slipper clutch, etc. And then imagine that bike, rather than getting 25mpg, makes 10 more HP, gets 55 miles to the gallon, has a better stock chassis and frame, and a 6th gear, is lighter, and you get a 690 SMC. The one place where the DRZ does have an edge is in the "safe" feeling you have on a DRZ. The DRZ is easy to ride and flog, and very rewarding in that fashion. I think nothing of cutting across a gravel lot on a DRZ because, yaknow, what's the worst that's gonna happen? You could leave it pinned as you left the asphalt and it wouldn't hurt you cause it just doesn't make enough power to do anything really bad. The only downside to the KTM is that it does have enough power to hurt you. And if you think about it, that's a hell of a thing to say about a motorcycle: The worst thing about this bike is that it's got so much power that you should treat it with respect. That's the worst thing I can think of. (Oh, and expensive oil changes). I've got some minor niggles with the suspension on mine, and I want to lower it 2 inches so the wife can ride it. I'd prefer 9 inches of travel with more compliance and stiffer springs.
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Jul 19, 2011 01:34
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Why the expensive oil changes?
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Jul 19, 2011 01:36
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MrZig posted:Why the expensive oil changes? It has 2 paper filters and requires 1.7 liters of the god's blood called MotoWRX 10w60. Look it up, it's about 15-20$ a liter. That plus 2 10$ filters + tax and shipping and you're at about 60$ an oil change.
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Jul 19, 2011 01:39
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With the Husky it's expensive if you follow the manual and put 10w-60 AMS or whatever in there but most just run rotella T6 or even T1 with no problems. Maybe the KTM is the same?
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Jul 19, 2011 01:42
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Gnaghi posted:With the Husky it's expensive if you follow the manual and put 10w-60 AMS or whatever in there but most just run rotella T6 or even T1 with no problems. Maybe the KTM is the same? I'm anticipating having this bike for a long time, so I'd rather spend the money and not have to deal with engine rebuilds or trying to find a spare engine. Sure you can skimp on oil and save 25$ or so an oil change, but that comes out to what, 100$ over 10k miles if you change it a little before or after schedule? Why?
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Jul 19, 2011 01:45
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Ah yeah I forgot the KTM has awesome oil change intervals as well. How the hell do they do it? In my case I save closer to $1000 and that's with all reusable filters.
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Jul 19, 2011 01:56
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Z3n posted:Imagine like, the most badass DRZ you could ever possibly think of. Just, dripping with thousands of dollars spent in the most absurd ways, every suspension mod, customized, wheels, built engine, gobs of power, perfect gearing, a slipper clutch, etc. You are not helping me ignore that ad you butte. 
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Jul 19, 2011 02:28
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I really need to ride a 690 to see what all this fuss is about  As big of a fuckin riot as it is, overall I find my 625 pretty underwhelming. Engine is ok at best, brakes are adequate after good pads and a $$ rotor but nothing eye popping, carb'd etc. This, coupled with the fact the bastard BARELY gets 40mpg even if I'm not flogging the poo poo out of it (rare) and its whopping 2.2 gallon tank have me looking for greener pastures. Is the 690 really THE bike?  e: might as well rename this thread. "KTM 690SMC masturbation station"
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Jul 19, 2011 03:06
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Empire Waffles posted:So, I sold the DRZ I had to fund the Husky SM610 that I bought a few months ago. I've since sold the Husky because I never really loved it. Just curious - what was your impression of the 610 coming from a DRZ?
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Jul 19, 2011 03:39
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Just curious - what was your impression of the 610 coming from a DRZ? From what I've read, it's pretty similar to the transition from a 250 to a 600I4 or from a 600I4 to a 1000. The front pulls up easy in first and second and every individual piece of the Husky is better than that piece on the DRZ.
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Jul 19, 2011 03:51
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frozenphil posted:You are not helping me ignore that ad you butte. BUY IT. You know you want to. Its a good price too from what I've seen. You need it...
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Jul 19, 2011 04:20
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frozenphil posted:You are not helping me ignore that ad you butte. You've got a choice: Do what I did, buy 2 dozen bikes over 7 years, constantly looking for the best thing, the next thing, the right toy, this endless "but that one is BETTER". Or you can skip to the end, and just buy the right bike as your second bike and skip all that bullshit. There are some great stories there, but the 690 is a better bike at everything than all of them. Empire Waffles posted:From what I've read, it's pretty similar to the transition from a 250 to a 600I4 or from a 600I4 to a 1000. The front pulls up easy in first and second and every individual piece of the Husky is better than that piece on the DRZ. What didn't you love about the Husky?
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Jul 19, 2011 06:50
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The parts availability and cam chain issues scared me but I just felt that I didn't really connect with the bike, if that makes any sense. Also, I think that it was too much bike for me. I wish I would have spent more time practicing (fun sumo practicing) with the farkled DRZ and I would have probably been more comfortable trying that stuff on a pristine Italian sumo. At this point, I'd really like to get or convert a wr450 or DRZ-E.
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Jul 19, 2011 07:06
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Empire Waffles posted:The parts availability and cam chain issues scared me but I just felt that I didn't really connect with the bike, if that makes any sense. Ahh, yeah, you shouldn't ride a sumo you're not ok with dropping. Although it's really easy to be ok with dropping it because they take minimal damage. Even the megamotos can get away with it...My friend dumped his dorsoduro at about 3mph during a stream crossing where it was covered in algae, I did the same, and both bikes were totally fine. Axle sliders + handguards and nothing but sliders ever touched the ground. Perfect. We both laughed about it.
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Jul 19, 2011 07:12
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Z3n posted:I'm anticipating having this bike for a long time, so I'd rather spend the money and not have to deal with engine rebuilds or trying to find a spare engine. Sure you can skimp on oil and save 25$ or so an oil change, but that comes out to what, 100$ over 10k miles if you change it a little before or after schedule? Why? I've used Rock Oil's 10w60 full synth and honestly I think it lasted longer than the overpriced motorex. Seemed to have more lubricity when I changed it out. I'm probably changing oil twice as fast as you, though. (KTM used to recommend Rock Oil until Motorex offered them a better deal FYI)
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Jul 19, 2011 11:45
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Well lets see: Rock oil is UK? So shipping would be out for the US. AMS Oil is $46.75 + shipping for a gallon. Shipping to me is $59.60 The closest thing is 20w-50, however. Motorex is $57 and I found free shipping. Plus you get a bit more as it's 4 liters not one gallon. Motul is $31 for 2 liters, 62 for 4 plus shipping. They only come is 20w-60 or 15w-50, though. Bel Ray EXS is $45 for 4 liters and has a pretty good dealer network. According to their site just about every nearby bike dealer or parts store (cyclegear) carries it, as well as their awesome chain wax. Then there is Rotellia T6 at $20 a gallon. Usually you can find it at walmart and some auto parts stores. But again it is only 10w-40. I really don't like the idea of having to order oil. If I can go into my local cycle place and pick up good oil it's a huge plus for me. My bike takes roughly half a gallon, so it's a difference of about $200 between Rotella and Belray over 5k miles if I change it at 300, $250 if I change it at 500 miles and $21 for you KTM guys.  It's hard to get a price on a rebuild for Huskys, especially since everyone turns their bike into an insane monster at the same time, but a basic one would run about $800 from uptiteracing from what I gather. But of course using expensive oil doesn't guarantee it it won't blow up either. Plus a lot of the Husky guys use Rotella T6 in both Huskys and various jap offroad bikes as well. Honestly if I had a KTM 690 I'd probably run whatever expensive stuff it called for since the change intervals are so much higher. But in my bike I'm changing out clean oil all the time.
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Jul 19, 2011 14:42
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If it required me to fill it with two quarts of my own blood every 500 miles, it would still be the greatest bike I've ever owned.
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Jul 19, 2011 15:02
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Spiffness posted:If it required me to fill it with two quarts of my own blood every 500 miles, it would still be the greatest bike I've ever owned. As long as it gave you juice and cookies. I run 10w-50 in both my Husky and KTM,(both call for 10w-60), although if you live somewhere hot sticking with 10w-60 probably isn't a bad idea.
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Jul 19, 2011 15:42
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Oy, there are basically no 690's in the midwest, other than this one: http://cedarrapids.craigslist.org/mcy/2451831180.html Which is posted everywhere and is way too much. I may wind up with a DRZ out of sheer unavailability.
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Jul 19, 2011 17:18
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So I ended buying the Drz I posted about earlier, bike is in awesome shape, hilarious to ride and just needs a new set of tires. Only paid $2800 for it. My question is, where can I pick up a set of Distanzias in the right size? Cycle gear dosent seem to have them listed, and bikebandit only does 160/60/17, while my current rear is a 140/70/17.
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Jul 19, 2011 17:42
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sw0cb posted:So I ended buying the Drz I posted about earlier, bike is in awesome shape, hilarious to ride and just needs a new set of tires. Only paid $2800 for it. My question is, where can I pick up a set of Distanzias in the right size? Cycle gear dosent seem to have them listed, and bikebandit only does 160/60/17, while my current rear is a 140/70/17. People have fit 160 pilot powers on but say that they aren't really needed. After riding with my 150 power, I believe them. I would stick with 150 on a semi-dirt tire. Do you have a local shop? I had to order in a 150 pilot rear. Fronts should be fairly easy to get.
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Jul 19, 2011 17:47
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quote:690 chat drat you guys, I'm going to have to track down a 690 and ride it now.
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Jul 19, 2011 18:25
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sw0cb posted:So I ended buying the Drz I posted about earlier, bike is in awesome shape, hilarious to ride and just needs a new set of tires. Only paid $2800 for it. My question is, where can I pick up a set of Distanzias in the right size? Cycle gear dosent seem to have them listed, and bikebandit only does 160/60/17, while my current rear is a 140/70/17. They're available on SWMotoTires for ~150$ shipped. http://www.swmototires.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=158&Itemid=53
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Jul 19, 2011 18:38
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sw0cb posted:So I ended buying the Drz I posted about earlier, bike is in awesome shape, hilarious to ride and just needs a new set of tires. Only paid $2800 for it. My question is, where can I pick up a set of Distanzias in the right size? Cycle gear dosent seem to have them listed, and bikebandit only does 160/60/17, while my current rear is a 140/70/17. I had a 160 on my previous DRZ, and it was pretty mushroomed on those rims. As for 690 chat, I'm seeing tons of DRZ's around me in the low 3K range, its going to be tough to justify $7400 for the one 690 in the midwest. I'll keep an open mind for you though, z3n.
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Jul 19, 2011 20:02
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Phat_Albert posted:I had a 160 on my previous DRZ, and it was pretty mushroomed on those rims.  I wish I was closer so you could test ride mine. Then you'd know within seconds.
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Jul 19, 2011 21:47
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I know what you're saying, and I understand the difference between a purebred bike and a general purpose one (I've owned a new GSXR-600 and a B12, for instance), but when next spring rolls around and I can snag any number of low-mile DRZ's with mods for 3K-ish, or wait around and buy the only 690 in this 1/3rd of the country regardless of mileage or mods for 2x the cost its gonna be tough. Who knows though, things may look different by then, some 690's may crop up.
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Jul 19, 2011 23:57
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Phat_Albert posted:I know what you're saying, and I understand the difference between a purebred bike and a general purpose one (I've owned a new GSXR-600 and a B12, for instance), but when next spring rolls around and I can snag any number of low-mile DRZ's with mods for 3K-ish, or wait around and buy the only 690 in this 1/3rd of the country regardless of mileage or mods for 2x the cost its gonna be tough. They pop up in weird places, keep your eyes open and be ready to move. Laymill got his for like, 5500 shipped from florida to NY.
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Jul 20, 2011 00:55
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needknees posted:the bastard BARELY gets 40mpg even if I'm not flogging the poo poo out of it (rare) and its whopping 2.2 gallon tank have My 625 never got below 50mpg and was usually closer to 60mpg unless I was really flogging it. I could easily get 100-110 miles before hitting reserve. Mine was de-baffled, exhaust chopped, rejetted with JD kit, airbox lid removed, and throttle position sensor unplugged.
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Jul 20, 2011 02:45
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So I figured out my year long DRZ acts like rear end at low throttle inputs was as simple spark plug issue. I checked the plugs a few times and it always looked decent. I was thinking it was something more involved like the crank sensor gone bad. Bike runs smooth like butter now. Which is great cause I was honestly starting to get tired of the thing and was beginning to think maybe this sumo thing wasn't all the great. Also looking sharp as hell with all the white plastics on it. Gonna be sad when I eventually drop it again.
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Jul 20, 2011 03:25
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Man does googles Chinese translation suck: http://translate.google.com/transla...sm%2Fdrz_01.htm
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Jul 21, 2011 04:20
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FuzzyWuzzyBear posted:My 625 never got below 50mpg and was usually closer to 60mpg unless I was really flogging it. I could easily get 100-110 miles before hitting reserve. Mine was de-baffled, exhaust chopped, rejetted with JD kit, airbox lid removed, and throttle position sensor unplugged. I must admit, I've never had a full tank where I didn't ride like a jackass  . I removed the peashooters but am still running the airbox lid. I do need to get it jetted properly though, but all things considered it should make it WORSE not better. I normally hit reserve between 65 and 75, best I've seen was right around 80. I've made it to ~120mi before but the thing was on fumes
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Jul 21, 2011 17:23
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Should I be shifting sooner than later on the DRZ? I'm not really hitting the RPM limiter but I get kinda close. Wish the thing had a loving tac. Only complaint.
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Jul 22, 2011 02:04
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Try it and see which way works best. Honestly, different riding situations call for different shifting techniques.
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Jul 22, 2011 02:29
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soy posted:Should I be shifting sooner than later on the DRZ? I'm not really hitting the RPM limiter but I get kinda close. Wish the thing had a loving tac. Only complaint. Drz is pretty revy, spin it up.
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Jul 22, 2011 02:33
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Roger that. Does it use more gas if you rev higher? I assume yes as my mileage has not been very good. I want that bigger gas tank mod. Already had to go on reserve twice.
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Jul 22, 2011 03:03
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Gas consumption is really based more on throttle position and load than anything, but since high revs and large throttle openings tend to go together, you'll probably see less gas mileage
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Jul 22, 2011 03:08
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I was about to post how happy I was about finally figuring all my problems out and loving my DRZ but now I'm more depressed then ever. Now all I want is a 690! I think this is my last time in this thread. I can't afford to be more in debt. EDIT: As far as shifting, pretty much what Phat said. In town, I shift a bit later to keep my rpms up and give me a bit more torque at my disposal to get around cars or out of sticky situations. If I'm just out cruising the country/back roads, I shift a bit earlier to save gas. (I'm not sure if it really helps or not) cmorrow001 fucked around with this message at 03:37 on Jul 22, 2011 |
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Jul 22, 2011 03:35
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