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Put some rim tape on... don't have a front stand so I had to do that wheel by lying on the ground and bending my hands around the rim. It looks alright. Rim tape is a bitch.
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Jul 18, 2011 02:02
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Got tired of rolling the bike back and forth while cleaning and lubing the chain. Locked the forks, zip-tied the brake lever, and tipped the bike onto its kickstand to lift the rear wheel off the ground. It worked, but I think it's time to give up and buy a rear stand. Anyone here have a t-rex stand, or should I spend the money on a pit bull?
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Jul 18, 2011 02:48
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I bought a pit bull but honestly wish I just got something like half the price. I personally barely ever used the stand. Chain cleanings every few weeks and the rare rear tire replacement.
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Jul 18, 2011 03:02
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Ola posted:I moved from A to B at opposite sides of the city center recently. A and B are equally distant from C, my workplace, which is in the middle. The first day I walked to work we were called in to a meeting. "Guys, we need a bigger and better place, we're moving to point A". Methinks BAGELBEABS* is luring you into a trap. 
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Jul 18, 2011 03:27
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Today I: Lubed my chain, throttle, choke, and clutch cables Installed a new fuel filter (Or rather, put one on. The bike's PO mysteriously took the stock one off..) The Ninjette is almost back up to speed after sitting for so long in that guy's garage. I also just realized that I never posted a picture of it in WDIWT, but it looks like any old 250. For now, at least 
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Jul 18, 2011 03:54
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I have a T-Rex rear stand. Bought it off eBay for something like 65 bucks direct from them iirc. Seems solid enough to me.
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Jul 18, 2011 03:55
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Not a motogadget ho in the least, but $50 for real time battery health data is smart money with a bike of this era. More important than the fuel gauge, since that info can at least be derived with some level of accuracy, and hitting reserve is a pretty effective early warning system. This is the Argus Battery Bug, and it has a bit more smarts than the typical stick-on voltmeter. Rather than regurgitate the feature set, here's the link: http://tinyurl.com/3fhqtb4 Nice to have a "reserve" so you can at least aim the bike toward friendly territory and avoid Merle the tow service guy. We'll see how it goes.  Also: NOW WITH 44% MORE GRATUITOUS LENS FLARE 
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Jul 18, 2011 05:48
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Marv Hushman posted:Not a motogadget ho in the least, but $50 for real time battery health data is smart money with a bike of this era. More important than the fuel gauge, since that info can at least be derived with some level of accuracy, and hitting reserve is a pretty effective early warning system. Has that thing stranded you due to battery problems since you did replaced the whole charging system? If not, you have now proven that you are more paranoid then even me!
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Jul 18, 2011 13:04
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Loucks posted:Got tired of rolling the bike back and forth while cleaning and lubing the chain. Locked the forks, zip-tied the brake lever, and tipped the bike onto its kickstand to lift the rear wheel off the ground. It worked, but I think it's time to give up and buy a rear stand. Anyone here have a t-rex stand, or should I spend the money on a pit bull? Just buy em used. I got both front and rear pit bulls off craigslist for iirc $100 and there are about a dozen on there right now for the same price.
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Jul 18, 2011 13:42
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Crayvex posted:Has that thing stranded you due to battery problems since you did replaced the whole charging system? If not, you have now proven that you are more paranoid then even me! No, but if you've ever been riding through the woods late at night and had a sword-wielding psycho in a motorcycle helmet jump out at you, it's worthwhile. He preys on stranded bikers and steals their souls. 
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Jul 18, 2011 15:13
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I now think it pertinent to invest in some early warning system for ninjas and sword-wielding motorcycle helmet assassins. Team Marv.
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Jul 18, 2011 16:40
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Loucks posted:Got tired of rolling the bike back and forth while cleaning and lubing the chain. Locked the forks, zip-tied the brake lever, and tipped the bike onto its kickstand to lift the rear wheel off the ground. It worked, but I think it's time to give up and buy a rear stand. Anyone here have a t-rex stand, or should I spend the money on a pit bull? I bought the $50 Harbour Freight model, and it works perfectly.
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Jul 18, 2011 16:41
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I finally took the heads off the '93 900SS to get the valve guides replaced since I'm coming up on 30k miles and it's started to smoke on overrun. The horizontal piston seems to have loved the nikasil plating so much it wore all the way through! Compression was still good but I guess it was just a matter of time. I did notice a few abnormal flakes stuck to the magnet and screen that are new since the last service, so it must have just happened. In other good news, once the cylinders were off I was able to inspect the crank oil galley plug that's known to back off on early Ducatis, and it was totally loose. Looks like i get to split the cases and loctite/stake the plug back where it belongs. Assuming nothing new appears when the cases are split it's time to punch out to 944cc, add high comp pistons, and put the 41mm FCRs on that have been kicking around my parts closet for a few months waiting for the head work. I'm also going from stock gearing to 15/37 since my chain/sprockets are shot (with almost 20k miles on them) so this thing should really wake up.
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Jul 20, 2011 05:10
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orthod0ks posted:I bought the $50 Harbour Freight model, and it works perfectly. Do you have a link for this one? For whatever reason, my search didn't turn up one.
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Jul 20, 2011 05:38
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Hughmoris posted:Do you have a link for this one? For whatever reason, my search didn't turn up one. Just key in "motorcycle" and it'll show all their moto-related products, and OMG did they expand their offerings since I was there last. The cleaning stand is actually $29 now, if we're talking about the same thing. If you have a store nearby, those are typically in stock.
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Jul 20, 2011 06:04
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Loucks posted:Got tired of rolling the bike back and forth while cleaning and lubing the chain. Locked the forks, zip-tied the brake lever, and tipped the bike onto its kickstand to lift the rear wheel off the ground. It worked, but I think it's time to give up and buy a rear stand. Anyone here have a t-rex stand, or should I spend the money on a pit bull? If you're only lifting the back enough to roll the wheel I wouldn't bother locking the forks or brakes (unless you're on a slope). Worst case the bike falls the few mm back onto the wheel. I use one of these in spreader configuration when I do the chain/wheel on the KTM. I've even done it on my friends big heavy pig of a Harley. Super quick, super easy, has multiple uses apart from this and it's much smaller than a rear stand.
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Jul 20, 2011 13:36
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That's an awesome idea and I never thought to use those as a spreader.
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Jul 20, 2011 14:29
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hayden. posted:That's an awesome idea and I never thought to use those as a spreader. I've got a bunch of those and I've even used them as spreaders before, but I never thought of using them to lift my bike 
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Jul 20, 2011 14:53
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ReelBigLizard posted:I use one of these in spreader configuration when I do the chain/wheel on the KTM. I've even done it on my friends big heavy pig of a Harley. Super quick, super easy, has multiple uses apart from this and it's much smaller than a rear stand. Genius, I've got a bunch of those in varying sizes. Never knew you could use them as a spreader and never imagined lifting a bike with one.
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Jul 20, 2011 15:52
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I managed to get loving paint in the gas tank. I was stripping the goldwing tank and somehow the aircraft remover got in there and dragged some paint in with it. getting it out is going to be a loving HOOT!
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Jul 20, 2011 16:54
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Hughmoris posted:Do you have a link for this one? For whatever reason, my search didn't turn up one. http://www.harborfreight.com/low-profile-rear-motorcycle-spool-stand-99701.html
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Jul 20, 2011 16:57
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I managed to get loving paint in the gas tank. Fill it with water, pull it out with a wet/dry vac.
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Jul 20, 2011 17:38
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Z3n posted:Fill it with water, pull it out with a wet/dry vac. well I would... but I didn't see it before I etched everything so the paint has kind of transplanted itself onto the bottom of the inside of the tank as well as in the fuel lines I'm gonna sodablast the everliving gently caress out of that spot then swirl around the remaining soda with some mineral spirits followed by a good phosporic acid rinse.
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Jul 20, 2011 18:41
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:well I would... but I didn't see it before I etched everything so the paint has kind of transplanted itself onto the bottom of the inside of the tank as well as in the fuel lines Oh, lovely. I thought you just had flakes of poo poo floating around in there. My ride today:  Now how the gently caress did that happen... Oh yeah! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SAQqe9tCUQs 
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Jul 20, 2011 18:47
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Z3n posted:Oh yeah! Bit more original than the burnout to kill a shot tire.
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Jul 20, 2011 19:44
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NitroSpazzz posted:Bit more original than the burnout to kill a shot tire. The tire wasn't shot until, uh, about 1k miles later. Whoops. Now I should go and see how many places I can cord it in though by locking the rear. At least until it pops 
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Jul 20, 2011 20:00
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Ordered a pair of SpeedBleeders to help with my bleeding my K5 SV's front brakes. Looking forward to making the annoying job much more fun.
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Jul 20, 2011 20:22
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the walkin dude posted:Ordered a pair of SpeedBleeders to help with my bleeding my K5 SV's front brakes. Looking forward to making the annoying job much more fun. probably one of the greatest inventions ever. 
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Jul 20, 2011 22:34
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Does anyone else just put a piece of clear hosing, like an aquarium air line or something, on the brake nub to bleed that way? It's pretty simple and about 10x cheaper...
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Jul 21, 2011 01:10
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Those things prevent air from going back into the bleed-hole. And they make the job much more faster, from what I read. Last night I worked for 45 minutes in an attempt to bleed from one caliper. No progress. gently caress that.
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Jul 21, 2011 01:12
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the walkin dude posted:Those things prevent air from going back into the bleed-hole. And they make the job much more faster, from what I read. I use this. http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html Took me about half an hour to do all the brake lines.
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Jul 21, 2011 01:32
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kylej posted:I use this. +1 for this. I actually enjoy bleeding brakes in bikes and cars since I got one of these.
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Jul 21, 2011 01:43
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the walkin dude posted:Those things prevent air from going back into the bleed-hole. And they make the job much more faster, from what I read. That's what I use the clear tube for. Clear tube on the breather hole, straight up a few feet (or pushed awkwardly somewhere into the frame if I forgot to grab a rubber band or something). Put fluid in reservoir, squeeze brake/depress brake pedal, air bleeds into the tube and rises, leaving only fluid near the bleed nipple. Tighten, done. Never taken more than 10 minutes per wheel, usually less. Or am I doing it wrong? Honestly want to know. 
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Jul 21, 2011 01:46
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Geirskogul posted:That's what I use the clear tube for. Clear tube on the breather hole, straight up a few feet (or pushed awkwardly somewhere into the frame if I forgot to grab a rubber band or something). Put fluid in reservoir, squeeze brake/depress brake pedal, air bleeds into the tube and rises, leaving only fluid near the bleed nipple. Tighten, done. Never taken more than 10 minutes per wheel, usually less. Nah, that way is fine. The speed bleeders mean you don't need to crack and uncrack the bleeder each time.
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Jul 21, 2011 02:22
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Geirskogul posted:That's what I use the clear tube for. Clear tube on the breather hole, straight up a few feet (or pushed awkwardly somewhere into the frame if I forgot to grab a rubber band or something). Put fluid in reservoir, squeeze brake/depress brake pedal, air bleeds into the tube and rises, leaving only fluid near the bleed nipple. Tighten, done. Never taken more than 10 minutes per wheel, usually less. Every time I've bled anything, I put a tiny bit of pressure on the system, crack the nut, apply pressure as air foams out, then tighten the nut. No hoses, just a towel to catch fluid. I bled a clutch after replacing master, slave, and the line in < 10 minutes. I also bled a hydraulic knockout set that way today in about 10 minutes, and that thing had its slave cylinder full of air from a busted seal.
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Jul 21, 2011 02:30
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Z3n posted:Nah, that way is fine. The speed bleeders mean you don't need to crack and uncrack the bleeder each time. They're just check valves. It's a really good idea, though - how much do they cost compared to a standard set of bleed valves?
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Jul 21, 2011 02:42
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Haha oh god so my folks are from Vietnam and my dad's basically loved motorcycles like Harleys forever but hes never owned one in the States so I let him ride the GS500, zx636, and my BMW today, he actually liked the GS500 the best because it was easy to ride, fun, and he liked the riding position over the sportbikes and he liked it over the heavier BMW. No drops! I didn't let him ride the gsx-r 1k though oh hell no! Hes a decent rider i'm just worried because it's been a while, hes been back to Vietnam a lot and always rents a bike over there, but those are ~150cc bikes and even the GS500 is a significant bump in power and weight. Hes taking the DMV riding test next week I think, hes got his permit, i'm all for him getting his license, i've tried talking him into taking the MSF but time and his relative stubborness get in the way. It's tough for him to get sat + sun off and a Thursday. It'll be cool if he gets his license overall, he wants his friend's Harley Sportster 1200 I think, he doesn't mind that I just bought the gsx-r 1k, heck i'd probably let him have the GS500 which would give me room for a replacement  .
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Jul 21, 2011 04:51
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Sounds pretty cool man. For his bit of stubbornness, maybe try to explain that people drive differently here, and that the class helps teach you to prepare for the hazards of driving on the street here. Not only that, but it helps on insurance and getting your license, and it's just a refresher course. In my class there were 2 guys who hadn't ridden in a while and were getting back into it. Also in this area, different places have different days for classes. Of course most do Sat/Sun, but there are some with Wed, Thurs, or Fri classes. Glad you got him riding over here
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Jul 21, 2011 05:26
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Geirskogul posted:Does anyone else just put a piece of clear hosing, like an aquarium air line or something, on the brake nub to bleed that way? It's pretty simple and about 10x cheaper... Yeah I usually use a piece a little over 2m and loop it up over the handlebars and back down into a recepticle. As fluid is relatively cheap I usually just flush the whole lot, clear tubing means you can easily see when it's coming out bright and clear. Works great for me but I only have a single caliper front and rear, it's a pretty easy system to bleed.
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Jul 21, 2011 07:40
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ReelBigLizard posted:Yeah I usually use a piece a little over 2m and loop it up over the handlebars and back down into a recepticle. As fluid is relatively cheap I usually just flush the whole lot, clear tubing means you can easily see when it's coming out bright and clear. Works great for me but I only have a single caliper front and rear, it's a pretty easy system to bleed. Protip: in aquarium shops, you can get the clear tubing AND little T and X fittings for them in the perfect size for brake bleeding, so on multi-caliper setups that have individual nipples, you hook up one 2-foot piece of tubing to each, then connect them together for one main bleed hose. It looks a bit wonky, but you can then just pinch or clothespin the individual hoses for whichever area you want pressure out of. Plus, it's cheap enough you just make one for each setup and throw it in a bag or something when you're done. I do like your idea for complete flushing - I haven't ever done a full flush on any vehicle myself, but seems pretty okay with that setup.
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Jul 21, 2011 08:02
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