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GC sedans (and even wagons!) are inflating in price pretty rapidly. The cheapest I've found in 5MT is a $1500 1997 Outback Sport that I'd be pulling the rad support out with a tree. Speaking of the GC, I installed my Konis, Racecomp wagon springs, anti-lift-kit and control arms yesterday. Looks like the left/drivers'-side control arm was bent when I got it, and I only now noticed because it didn't fit into the mount. I'm now driving around on one steel control arm and one aluminum control arm, which is suboptimal. So, does anyone have a good source on GC STI control arms? Ideally I'd like to buy just one, but having spares wouldn't hurt.
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 17:42 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 15:35 |
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I want the SPT exhaust but the price sucks. I can't imagine catbacks would void the warranty so I will probably go for a cheaper one. Anything fancy requiring tunes and stuff I will hold off on for as long as possible until I just cannot resist the go faster bug any longer. What is the deal with TPMS things? If I have new tires mounted on the stock wheels will I need new sensor things, go to the dealership, etc? If I buy a new set of wheels and don't run them will it hurt the car? I can deal with a light all winter for 170 bucks.
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 17:49 |
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Airbone Operation posted:I want the SPT exhaust but the price sucks. I can't imagine catbacks would void the warranty so I will probably go for a cheaper one. Anything fancy requiring tunes and stuff I will hold off on for as long as possible until I just cannot resist the go faster bug any longer. The sensors are built into the valve stem. If you change tires you don't need to worry about it. If you change rims you'll need to transfer them over and that gets pricey as people love to charge you an arm and a leg for the lovely little rubber gasket "rebuild kit".
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 18:08 |
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So I can't just get another set of wheels with winter tires mounted without any TPMS and use those?
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 18:54 |
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Airbone Operation posted:So I can't just get another set of wheels with winter tires mounted without any TPMS and use those? You could absolutely. You just wouldn't have pressure monitoring if you didn't have TMPS modules in those.
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 19:08 |
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Yeah, and you get used to and ignore the TMPS light after about 5 minutes as well. Come spring, the light turns off within a mile or two after putting the sensor equipped wheels back on.
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 19:58 |
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perfect, thanks a lot
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 21:46 |
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I really like my SPT catback, but am well aware that I'm restricting my 3" downpipe. Good quiet exhaust that has a nice rumble when put into boost. Definitely recommend on the sound front, however it does hang a little low on the undercarriage. My guess is they just wanted to make it easier to ship.
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 22:12 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:GC sedans (and even wagons!) are inflating in price pretty rapidly. The cheapest I've found in 5MT is a $1500 1997 Outback Sport that I'd be pulling the rad support out with a tree. I can pick up a wagon for 800 tomorrow if I want. But.... I want to do a 22B clone so a lovely 4dr is what I want. Unless I decide to do a WRC Wagon. Not sure how that'll work tho
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 23:15 |
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Cat Terrist posted:Unless I decide to do a WRC Wagon. Not sure how that'll work tho One of those is for sale locally and it's beautiful in that ugly butch classic-Subaru style.
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# ? Jul 21, 2011 23:50 |
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Gonna go look at an '05 Legacy GT fairly soon, maybe this weekend. About 85k miles Anything I should be aware of? Are head gaskets still an issue on this 2.5? I have an 01 RS, and I'm looking to upgrade in speed and comfort. Listed at 11,900, but hopefully I can get that down.
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# ? Jul 22, 2011 03:01 |
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Airbone Operation posted:now is that like a dynotune or is it like an Access Port which is from my understanding a premade tune not unique to the vehicle? The Access Port just allows you to change maps. You can have your car dyno tuned or you can get an off the shelf map based loosely on your setup. Or you can go the open source route if you don't mind using a laptop to load up maps. For a downpipe, you could get dyno tuned if want to spend the money. Or you can take a chance and download one. If you're feeling adventurous, you could do some reading and try tuning it yourself. Cozmosis posted:Gonna go look at an '05 Legacy GT fairly soon, maybe this weekend. About 85k miles Anything I should be aware of? Are head gaskets still an issue on this 2.5? I have an 01 RS, and I'm looking to upgrade in speed and comfort. Listed at 11,900, but hopefully I can get that down. Head gaskets aren't an issue. Receipts of regular oil changes would give some peace of mind that the turbo might last a bit longer. dphi fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jul 22, 2011 |
# ? Jul 22, 2011 03:44 |
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Cozmosis posted:Gonna go look at an '05 Legacy GT fairly soon, maybe this weekend. About 85k miles Anything I should be aware of? Are head gaskets still an issue on this 2.5? I have an 01 RS, and I'm looking to upgrade in speed and comfort. Listed at 11,900, but hopefully I can get that down. Exploding pistons? yeah. Get a leakdown. ---- Just replaced the rear diff mount on my legacy. Holy crap, the difference. The NVH level is way down and the driveline is so much smoother.
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# ? Jul 22, 2011 09:36 |
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THE BLACK NINJA posted:I was under the impression that doing so means forfeiting your warranty. I mean, its not exactly a hard part to see... I'd recommend talking to a few dealerships in your area (or if you live near it, the dealer you bought your STi from). Some are much more supportive of minor modifications like a downpipe than others. It seems like the more STi's they sell, the more likely they are to be okay with things like exhaust and intake work. It's just my experience (in Arizona, land of terrible gas), but as I said earlier in the thread, the dealer I bought from made it clear they would be entirely supportive of - and actually recommended - a downpipe and a tune for the sake of engine longevity. YMMV though - always make sure you talk with the service department before you do any mods to make sure they'll support you and will feel comfortable with what you want to do. Chances are, you can make a deal with them to support some minor modifications. Even my dealer's service department mechanics (in bumfuck IL and rarely see WRX or STi impreza models) told me they'd be fine with a catback and a drop-in K&N or supported K&N intake (since they're most familiar with the brand and their claim that it cannot affect your warranty).
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# ? Jul 22, 2011 18:14 |
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I currently drive an 02 WRX (2.0L 5 speed MT).I am experiencing some real loud gear noise but can shift into all gear without trouble (3rd gear is a little rough when the engine is cold). After changing the transmission fluid metal "pieces" were found. Just confirmed that the pieces of metal were part of some gear teeth (ferrous). My mechanic (aka Dads friend/Subaru mechanic) recommends that I just buy a new/used transmission. Can anyone recommend me a reputable website that will ship me a used or rebuilt transmission. Or maybe there is something else I can do in the mean time. Any input would be awesome. EDIT: added pertinent information. Aborted fucked around with this message at 00:20 on Jul 23, 2011 |
# ? Jul 23, 2011 00:16 |
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Aborted posted:I currently drive an 02 WRX (2.0L 5 speed MT).I am experiencing some real loud gear noise but can shift into all gear without trouble (3rd gear is a little rough when the engine is cold). After changing the transmission fluid metal "pieces" were found. Just confirmed that the pieces of metal were part of some gear teeth (ferrous). My mechanic (aka Dads friend/Subaru mechanic) recommends that I just buy a new/used transmission. Why not just keep driving on it until you have an actual problem? I'd look around for local salvage yards that will have a transmission in stock. Perhaps get the 03-05 transmission instead as it has the wider RA gears?
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 00:30 |
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For the 03-05 transmissions is there any modifications I will have to do in order to install it? As for running till it breaks, I tend to do a lot of commuting on the weekend and would hate to get stranded (even with AAA). I got the funds and I'm not the best at saving money, I'd hate for it to burn a hole in my pocket waiting for it to poo poo itself. I've been checking the local yards and Craigslist and some other websites but my Google search has been sadly lacking.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 00:57 |
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car-part.com is awesome. You should be able to find exactly what you need with that.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 00:59 |
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Surely he can get an 03-07 transmission? The 06+ have reinforced synchros They should slot directly in, but I don't think you really need to get another transmission at this stage in the game. I'd just put the money for it in a no-fee interest banking account. You're not going to get stranded; I've been in a few WRXes now that have exploded various gears and they were still perfectly driveable afterward as long as you shift past the stripped gear. Try NASIOC or your local Subaru club. Mine has a handful of obsessive-compulsive wreckers running Subaru-specific yards competing for the latest salvage title. e: D'oh! You're right. vvv Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jul 23, 2011 |
# ? Jul 23, 2011 01:15 |
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Gear ratios, at least in the US, are the same between the 06 and 07 WRX. 06-07 STI changed gear ratios.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 01:23 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Surely he can get an 03-07 transmission? The 06+ have reinforced synchros and the 07 makes questionable gear ratio changes for the sake of economy. I don't think they changed the final drive at all, so his existing rear diff will continue to work. Thanks everybody for the quick and speedy help. I just wanted to get the transmission swapped when I got the a new valve cover gasket and the timing belt replaced (101k miles for me). Already replaced the clutch 15k miles ago.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 01:33 |
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I'd highly recommend you replace the clutch when you replace the transmission anyway, so you can tack that on to the expense.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 01:33 |
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Now 24 hours into owning a WRX ('06 wagon in silver/grey), and ooooh man do I love it. I'd drive WRXs briefly before, but never really had a chance to take one up into the mountains and really wring it out. I am really, really impressed with how well it handles, its stability, and how easily I get a sense of where I am at in terms of grip just by feel (at least compared to my 97 Impreza). I really couldn't imagine a much better car for living in Colorado. The feel of the boost coming on is really really addictive too--I need to be careful with that or I'm going to get a ticket or five. Then again, the wagon is pretty discrete looking. The only real complaint I have is that the back end isn't quite as spacious as I imagined before actually looking at the wagon, but the rest of the care MORE than makes up for it.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 01:56 |
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Amandyke posted:Why not just keep driving on it until you have an actual problem? I'd look around for local salvage yards that will have a transmission in stock. Perhaps get the 03-05 transmission instead as it has the wider RA gears? All the labor seems to be in dropping it. nm fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jul 23, 2011 |
# ? Jul 23, 2011 02:48 |
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for a 5-speed rebuild we'll charge 7 or so hours of labor including removal and installation. In nm's case it wasn't any work to take the trans out so he just had to pay for the actual transmission assembly, which is actually not that hard. The 6-speed is a bitch though. On that note the evo 6-speed also sucks. if you broke something in a 5-speed, step one is to make sure you have the newer and wider 04+ gearset which is essentially the RA gearset. It costs 1100 for all the parts to upgrade. The next thing you want to do is some sort of a treatment to reduce friction and stress concentrations. This could be WPC treating, shot-peening, cryo treating, ISF, etc. For nm we went with the WPC which is a micro-shot peening process to harden the surface, remove irregularites and stress concentrations, and reduce friction. The next step after that is an aftermarket gearset. This is the point where I recommend a 6-speed upgrade. Syncronized, helical PPGs are like $3500, and you can get a 6-speed that has gears stronger than the ppgs and upgraded center and front diffs to go along with it for the same amount. We are putting 750whp and 690lb-ft through our stock 6-speed on the race car, and no fancy straight cut dog-box 5-speed would withstand that due to the case and and size 5-speed gears. In conclusion, the 5-speed sucks [for modified turbo cars]. jamal fucked around with this message at 03:27 on Jul 23, 2011 |
# ? Jul 23, 2011 03:24 |
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I finally got off my lazy rear end and installed the SPT boost gauge on my '10 WRX. I'm not terribly thrilled with its location, but I couldn't find anywhere I liked better.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 04:34 |
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I hate oil leaks. Especially at cam seals... I've got a few hopes: 1) go back to conventional oil, cross fingers leak stops 2) change out PCV, might be the stock PCV from the original 2.0l this block's head's were from (100k+ miles), cross fingers 3) put another Auto-RX treatment through the car, cross fingers 4) suck it up and get the seal replaced (gotten 2 quotes, $300-400 and $800), cry like little girl in the corner.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 08:35 |
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only thing you can do is change the seals. It's actually not that hard, there are just a few things you have to do right when putting the timing belt back on. Plus getting the cam gears off is a bitch.
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 08:47 |
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What is the list of everything you should do during a TB change on a 2.5 turbo?
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 09:03 |
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Timing belt Water pump 4x idlers tensioner thermostat coolant gates part number TCKWP328RB subaru part numbers 21200AA072, 21236AA010 gallon subaru green coolant: SOA868V9210 (use a little over half for summer/track use, mix 50/50 for winter, don't use subaru coolant conditioner) bottle of redline water wetter fill the rest with distilled water ...koyo aluminum radiator, new hoses and clamps accessory belts if they need it. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:28 on Jul 23, 2011 |
# ? Jul 23, 2011 09:24 |
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Cold night, pulled apart the passenger rear strut because of a knock noise suddenly appearing - nothing loose. gently caress I've blown the strut I think
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 12:52 |
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jamal posted:for a 5-speed rebuild we'll charge 7 or so hours of labor including removal and installation. That's it???? Wow so how much if you bring it in?
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 22:10 |
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jamal posted:only thing you can do is change the seals. It's actually not that hard, there are just a few things you have to do right when putting the timing belt back on. Plus getting the cam gears off is a bitch. Any idea on the labor hours it should take to replace the cam seal? If it matters, it's the driver side exhaust cam seal. My guess at the work list is: 1) Drain/remove radiator (30 minutes) 2) remove timing belt cover (5 minutes) 3) remove timing belt (30 minutes) 4) remove cam gear(s) (30 minutes) 5) replace seal (15 minutes) 6) Put it all back together (1 hour) So complete guess: 2.5-3 hours?
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# ? Jul 23, 2011 22:49 |
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Recommend against using Testors Transparent Candy Apple Red for doing tail-lights, that being the one on the left. On the right is Dupont Metalcast Red, freshly redone this afternoon. I'm happier already, but 3 more to do tomorrow.
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# ? Jul 24, 2011 01:29 |
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Got a question over here. I've just found a 1993 Subaru Liberty RX (AWD) for sale on the internet. It's got a blown engine, but apparently the turbo is still "good". I don't really know a lot about these cars, but the guy has said that he has a 2.2 litre Subaru Impreza engine and is willing to let it all go for around $1,200 or so. What are some of the problems and stuff that I could look for? I should also look at what happens when I move this can into my state (it's in Victoria at the moment, I live in South Australia)... e: The 2.2 litre is from a 1996 Subaru Impreza. Forgot to add that. fingerling fucked around with this message at 17:37 on Jul 24, 2011 |
# ? Jul 24, 2011 12:03 |
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Just passed race school put on by Entropy Racing and hosted by EMRA. Got my Novice Competition License in 100+ degrees at Lime Rock Park. Was having problems with tires overheating and greasing up. Oh, and staying mentally there with the temps. The car held up well, me not so much. Quick thoughts, holy gently caress I'm slow. There is no comparison to TT events. Tiny/short spec racers are loving hard to see and will swarm you. Going off line to make a pass or be passed is scary the first few times and you really need to trust that the other guy sees you. TTs really get you used to using the best line and only knowing how to drive that line. Learned a ton at the school and we had a bunch of exercises including: Side-by-Side - where we partnered up and had to stay right next to the other car around the whole course. Swap sides at the front straight. This is a lot harder than it sounds. Passing - partnered again and attempt to pass at every corner. We'd trade off passing attempts. Grid starts - rolling starts with pace car. Race - self explanatory. During all the exercises they had instructors in various other cars like a mustang, corvette, spec racer, spec miata blasting thru the field, observing, and trying to mess you up. Splitting partners, boxing you in, and so forth just to watch your reactions. Flags would get thrown out, emergency vehicles sent out, cones simulating on track debris, and a whole bunch of other curve balls. I still need to complete four more sprint races under observation to get my full license. Waiting on some pictures my friend took. I'll post them later. All in all, it was a great time and I learned a bunch; but, holy poo poo are my eyes opened now. You really need to be on your toes compared to a TT.
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# ? Jul 24, 2011 19:57 |
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I took my stupid RS out yesterday. Strapped on some BFG gravels. Went out to some dirt roads in unpopulated wilderness areas (very very private which we had permission to be on). Literally bumble gently caress no where. Some other subarus (and an audi) came along. It was dusty: DSLR cameras make everyone look awesome: All six cars survived the drive: I did break my exhaust off at the axle back flange... and sheered off a loving lateral link Driving 125 miles home on it was scary. Slow is Fast fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Jul 24, 2011 |
# ? Jul 24, 2011 22:27 |
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Pictures! :x Melee going into big bend. Downhill attempting to do an inside pass on the miata. He later regained the position on the straight. Another view. c355n4 fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jul 24, 2011 |
# ? Jul 24, 2011 22:38 |
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Awesome pictures c355n4. I wish I could find a GC coupe that looked clean like yours. I wondered how the RS's fared on the track versus all sorts of other cars. I also think it's amazing to see the versatility of the platform Subaru has created. Our posts back to back, one set of pictures it's some ding dong on some private dirt land with gravels out enjoying the scenery, and in the other pictures it's the same model car out on a road coarse rippin' it up.
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# ? Jul 24, 2011 23:57 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 15:35 |
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I know I am a terrible person but I can't shake the desire to put some BBS LM's on my wagon.
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# ? Jul 25, 2011 00:31 |