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I need to make some t-shirts to sell on my website (https://www.boroughbees.com). I remember that in the past there were goons who sold wholesale American/Alternative Apparel t-shirts. Are any of those people still around?
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Jul 14, 2011 21:13
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ShotgunWillie posted:I need to make some t-shirts to sell on my website (https://www.boroughbees.com). I remember that in the past there were goons who sold wholesale American/Alternative Apparel t-shirts. Are any of those people still around? If you just want blanks, you can buy them from TSC, http://www.tscapparel.com/. If you need them printed then there are several goons doing that, including me.
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Jul 16, 2011 04:02
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Gross question, but the cat proudly took out a mouse last night, and I've noticed now that there are some nice blood stains on the carpet. Pretty heavy :/.
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Jul 16, 2011 04:13
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Associate Christ
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Gross question, but the cat proudly took out a mouse last night, and I've noticed now that there are some nice blood stains on the carpet. Pretty heavy :/. That's not a question, but whatever. You can try carbonated water to get it out if it's not too caked in yet. And be sure to dab it, not rub/smear it around. Pretty sure I saw this in a movie so you know it's legit.
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Jul 16, 2011 06:42
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Club soda does work; not sure if it's up to the task of getting out blood though. Try Resolve. It's spray-can stuff, and works pretty well. One of my dogs took an enormous poo poo on the rug a few weeks back, and this stuff cleaned it right up with no trouble at all.
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Jul 16, 2011 21:48
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A quick question about pool care. I have a DE filter which I've been feeding the pool store diatomaceous earth. I also have chickens, so I have a constant supply of feed grade diatomaceous earth. I was wondering if the two are interchangeable. I've looked at a few online forums. Some of them say that say the pool store stuff is designed not to break down when it comes into contact with the chemicals in the pool and others say that it is designed to withstand the pressure of the pool pump, but I'm not sure I'm convinced. Has anyone ever tried to use feed-grade DE in their filter? I've also been wondering about alternatives to pool-care chemicals. It's not so much the expense of them that I resent, but the fact that the pool store is a nice little trek from my house. Thanks guys!
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Jul 17, 2011 21:00
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Gross question, but the cat proudly took out a mouse last night, and I've noticed now that there are some nice blood stains on the carpet. Pretty heavy :/.
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Jul 18, 2011 01:51
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Gross question, but the cat proudly took out a mouse last night, and I've noticed now that there are some nice blood stains on the carpet. Pretty heavy :/. If you're in the US, LA's totally awesome cleaner from the dollar store
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Jul 18, 2011 07:41
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After moving a door I've got a patch of ceiling I need to match up with the existing textured ceiling. It's not something I've done before, but I've got some scrap plasterboard to do some experimenting and practising on before I get to the ceiling. I don't know how well you can tell from this photo, but can anyone have a guess of whether I should be looking at a roller, brush or a stippler pad.  I'm pretty sure its a pad, but thought I would double check before buying one and it not matching. Am I right in thinking you adjust the consistency of the, artex mix to control the general length/width and roundness of the "drips"?
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Jul 18, 2011 15:25
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That would be stippling. I have that at my place. It's fairly difficult to match, but it is possible. You do need adjust the thickness of the mud to get the depth that you need. I had someone do it for me because it was a large area. All I can say is......good luck.
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Jul 18, 2011 15:49
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I ran out of 14/2, but I have a bunch of 12/2 laying around still. This is safe and to code, so long as it's a 15A breaker, right?pre:15-amp breaker outlet | | 14/2 12/2 L-------[J-box]--14/2--outlet NickNails posted:That would be stippling. I have that at my place. It's fairly difficult to match, but it is possible. You do need adjust the thickness of the mud to get the depth that you need. I had someone do it for me because it was a large area. All I can say is......good luck. hey girl you up fucked around with this message at 15:48 on Jul 19, 2011 |
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Jul 19, 2011 15:44
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Kaluza-Klein posted:Gross question, but the cat proudly took out a mouse last night, and I've noticed now that there are some nice blood stains on the carpet. Pretty heavy :/. My wife and I have decided that the combination of Resolve and Nature's Mircale is quite simply the greatest carpet cleaning solution known to man. It works on everything our pets throw (or otherwise deliver) at us.
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Jul 19, 2011 15:53
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ASDFJKLM posted:A quick question about pool care. I have a DE filter which I've been feeding the pool store diatomaceous earth. I also have chickens, so I have a constant supply of feed grade diatomaceous earth. I was wondering if the two are interchangeable. I've looked at a few online forums. Some of them say that say the pool store stuff is designed not to break down when it comes into contact with the chemicals in the pool and others say that it is designed to withstand the pressure of the pool pump, but I'm not sure I'm convinced. Has anyone ever tried to use feed-grade DE in their filter? I think the big difference between filter DE and food DE is that the filter DE has a higher silica content. This makes the little microscopic algae bits (rest their souls) more jagged and better at holding onto things as water passes by them. Food grade specifically has very low silica, because eating glass is bad for you and breathing it is worse. So while it probably won't harm your filter, I doubt it would work as well. You can (with a little effort) keep a pool clean and clear with nothing but borax, bleach, and baking soda. https://www.troublefreepool.com is a good forum where people who care way more about pools than one should can help you out with that and just about anything else. Doodarazumas fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Jul 19, 2011 |
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Jul 19, 2011 22:56
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How in the balls do I turn on my sprinkler system? Now that the flooding and rain seems to have gone away for a bit, I need to get this crap done. I figured out the mechanical parts but the pipes are giving me a headache. No matter what way I turn the red lever, no water comes through the pipes. Vertical, horizontal, left or right. The white screw to the left doesn't seem to make a difference, I've tried all different combinations. 
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Jul 19, 2011 23:11
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PFlats posted:I ran out of 14/2, but I have a bunch of 12/2 laying around still. This is safe and to code, so long as it's a 15A breaker, right?
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Jul 20, 2011 01:04
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Grem posted:How in the balls do I turn on my sprinkler system? Now that the flooding and rain seems to have gone away for a bit, I need to get this crap done. I figured out the mechanical parts but the pipes are giving me a headache. No matter what way I turn the red lever, no water comes through the pipes. Vertical, horizontal, left or right. The white screw to the left doesn't seem to make a difference, I've tried all different combinations. If you turn that red lever in line, you are opening the flow to that silver quick couple. If you did that and nothing came out then its not connected to anything. You may be looking in the wrong place
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Jul 20, 2011 02:28
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Hello everyone I was asked to fix a damaged vinyl fence, but the problem is that particular model is no longer in production. So replacing the whole section is out of the question. The only advise I was able to find thus far is to fill it with bondo, then sand and repaint the top section. Same as auto body work, which I'm capable of doing, but don't want to spend 2 days on. Is there some sort of repair procedure that is more applicable than the above process? A special type of epoxy? Please let me know, thanks. Picture attached, give it a minute or so to show up.
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Jul 20, 2011 03:04
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My bathtub has separate handles for hot and cold water. Due to the hard water and mineral deposits, I needed to use a gear puller to get the handles off the splined shafts last time I replaced the gaskets a few months ago. I'm going to be taking them off again this week which will require using a gear puller again. While I have them off, is there a particular type of grease I could put on those shafts that will hold up to the heat/cold/moisture present in a shower so I don't have to keep using a gear puller every time I want to take the handles off? My shower is in pretty bad shape and I don't have the money right now to fix it correctly with a new tub and surround, so I'm probably going to have to pull those handles off a few more times over the next year or two for repairs while I save up the money to get my bathroom completely redone.
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Jul 20, 2011 07:36
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dwoloz posted:If you turn that red lever in line, you are opening the flow to that silver quick couple. If you did that and nothing came out then its not connected to anything. You may be looking in the wrong place Water will trickle out, that's it, though.
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Jul 20, 2011 08:49
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SkunkDuster posted:My bathtub has separate handles for hot and cold water. Due to the hard water and mineral deposits, I needed to use a gear puller to get the handles off the splined shafts last time I replaced the gaskets a few months ago. I'm going to be taking them off again this week which will require using a gear puller again. While I have them off, is there a particular type of grease I could put on those shafts that will hold up to the heat/cold/moisture present in a shower so I don't have to keep using a gear puller every time I want to take the handles off?
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Jul 20, 2011 17:13
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So I'm replacing the burners on my 4 year old Perfect Flame gas grill because the original burners crack and are under recall and can lead to this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp4ucQCjNvU When I was taking the old burners off, the screws were completely warped and also had a small washer underneath them (which I couldn't access without practically taking apart the whole bbq), so I ended up having to literally pull the burners off, which hosed up the screwholes pretty good. Now the new screws won't screw in hardly at all. How do I fix this, with some kind of washer or something? Here's some lovely pictures, I can try and take more if need be.  
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Jul 20, 2011 21:27
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wormil posted:If you just want blanks, you can buy them from TSC, http://www.tscapparel.com/. If you need them printed then there are several goons doing that, including me. Are there any places that don't require a Tax ID? I'm doing this on a relatively small scale with a woodblock letterpress.
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Jul 20, 2011 22:25
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SHORT VERSION: Replaced the valve under the handle and my faucet still leaks from the backside, not at the aerator. KOHLER brand faucet. Am I missing something that stops that area from leaking? LONG VERSION: Just noticed my kitchen faucet was leaking and dripping down the back side of the fixture and toward the wall. I pulled the handle off, removed the decorative nut that covers the section between the handle and the base, and removed the nut that secures the valve to the base. I searched around online and found that crappy valves were fairly common and an easy fix so I ordered one and replaced it. It is still leaking. Using some deductive reasoning I decided the valve couldnt be the cause of the leak because the water would leak from the faucet, which is not the case.  When the water is on, it runs fine for about 3 seconds then the leak starts. The water bubbles up from the area between the nut that holds the valve down and the body of the faucet.
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Jul 20, 2011 23:23
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coronaball posted:So I'm replacing the burners on my 4 year old Perfect Flame gas grill because the original burners crack and are under recall and can lead to this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp4ucQCjNvU You probably won't be able to use machine screws(as pictured) to reattach the burners if you messed up the threads in the hole. Get some similar length and slightly larger diameter self tapping sheet metal screws and drive them into the same holes.
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Jul 21, 2011 04:06
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Brice posted:
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Jul 21, 2011 04:18
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dinozaur posted:You probably won't be able to use machine screws(as pictured) to reattach the burners if you messed up the threads in the hole. Get some similar length and slightly larger diameter self tapping sheet metal screws and drive them into the same holes. Or if access is ok, find some nuts the right size & bolt into those
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Jul 21, 2011 06:05
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The tiles and backing walls around my tub/shower are pretty much shot. I'm going to have to tear everything down to the studs and put in a tub surround. What are the advantages/disadvantages of glue up surrounds verses ones that attach directly to the studs? The long wall is an exterior wall and this is in Minnesota, so insulating properties are a concern. If anybody has suggestions on a type of surround to buy, I'm all ears. The tub height is 13" and the ceiling height is 94". I'd like a surround that goes all the way up (81"), but most of the ones I'm seeing online are around 2 feet short of that mark. Would it work better to get a shower surround and cut it to the right height? Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 17:15
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ShotgunWillie posted:Are there any places that don't require a Tax ID? I'm doing this on a relatively small scale with a woodblock letterpress. TSC did not require a tax id when I first ordered years ago, not sure if that policy has changed. Buying from TSC is also cheaper than buying direct from AA, unless you are buying by the truck load. wormil fucked around with this message at 19:20 on Jul 21, 2011 |
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Jul 21, 2011 19:17
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coronaball posted:So I'm replacing the burners on my 4 year old Perfect Flame gas grill because the original burners crack and are under recall and can lead to this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp4ucQCjNvU Hey guys, lets build a grill out of magnesium. Amazing.
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Jul 21, 2011 20:18
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jackpot posted:Holy poo poo, did I read correctly that they used a magnesium alloy for the burners? Because Jesus Christ, I haven't had a chemistry class since high school, and even I know that's gonna have hilarious/deadly consequences. Guaranteed it was a high level decision at the last minute by some accountant or supply chain manager who doesnt know poo poo about chemistry or engineering. "Those stupid engineers, why use an aluminum alloy when we can save $3 off each unit by using this magnesium alloy!"
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Jul 21, 2011 20:33
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jackpot posted:Holy poo poo, did I read correctly that they used a magnesium alloy for the burners? Because Jesus Christ, I haven't had a chemistry class since high school, and even I know that's gonna have hilarious/deadly consequences. They did, and a whole slew of Perfect Flame grills sold by Lowe's from 05-09 were recalled. It was a pretty lovely recall though, since I never heard a thing about until I noticed that the burners were cracked and I did some research. Plus Perfect Flame either went out of business or changed their name to Nexgrill. Moral of the story: buy a Weber.
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Jul 21, 2011 20:59
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Probably too dang specific a problem, but: I have a GE AEM10 A/C that stopped cooling last night (fans still worked). I discovered that the temperature setting had somehow gotten up to 86 F; I tried to dial it back down, but the AC would automatically, immediately reset itself to 86 every time. The other buttons - the power button, the high/low settings, the fan cool/AC cool/auto settings - don't work at all. I unplugged the unit for a while, and the air conditioning did kick back on when I plugged it in again, but the other problems remained (and I have no control over the amount of A/C output). Filter's clean, coils look OK. Anything I can do, or is this just an electronics problem?
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Jul 22, 2011 17:44
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I don't know that specific model, but I think in general thermostats are standard replaceable components. If you go to your favorite hardware store they will have a full shelf of replacement units you can try. They are very easy to wire a new one. Its like 5 wires or something.
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Jul 22, 2011 18:37
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peepsalot posted:I don't know that specific model, but I think in general thermostats are standard replaceable components. If you go to your favorite hardware store they will have a full shelf of replacement units you can try. They are very easy to wire a new one. Its like 5 wires or something. 2 (mandatory) wires. Occasionally more. Why you'd ever get anything but a T87 is beyond me, though. edit: Yeah, 5 wires is pretty typical with the heat/cool/off switch. I guess I should see more thermostats because that surprised me. sixide fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jul 23, 2011 |
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Jul 23, 2011 00:19
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Nitrox posted:If you pull it out, there is a rubber washer. Replace it and the leak will stop. Specifically, you can buy "repair kits" from any place that have a bunch of generic rubber washers (or buy ones specifically for Kohler) at Home Depot for about $3. Unscrew the nut holding down everything, pull out the "stem" (that whole piece in there), and just replace any rubber ring you see. Also, look down in the hole after you pull out the stem, and you will probably see a little rubber button with a spring under it. Pull that out, replace it as well. My question, might make a thread for it later: I just renovated a bathroom with a contractor, and I want to do my other bathroom myself. Starting off, I want to replace the lightbox. In the renovated bathroom, we took out the florescent light unit, put in regular bulb lights, then sheet-rocked over the whole box with holes cut out. Pictures to show the difference: Bathroom that needs renovating, please excuse terrible lighting (ballast needs changing) and cell phone pics:     New bathroom, what I want to ultimately do to the lightbox:  So the old bathroom lights are actually two florescent light units next to each other, leading to a single light switch. I assume it won't be difficult to run the lights as two separate switches? 4 bulbs, 2 per switch. If anybody has suggestions on what lights/parts to buy, I'm all ears, this is my most ambitious DIY project so far, but I'm pretty good with wiring (I've built computers) so I don't foresee too much trouble.
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Jul 23, 2011 05:01
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I'm building a mini-greenhouse for some plants we're growing. 1. What's the best tool to use for cutting plexiglass? 2. Any recommended collapsible worktables for this type of project? I'm a new DIYer and I'm trying to work up a collection of practical tools, and I don't have a proper workbench (and we're also short on space, hence the need for something collapsible).
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Jul 23, 2011 21:29
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melon cat posted:I'm building a mini-greenhouse for some plants we're growing. 1. A utility knife and a good straight edge. You score along the straight edge and snap it to cut. 2. Find a Black and Decker Workmate it is exactly what you need. The top is expandable and can also act as a clamp itself. While the whole thing folds flat and could be stored under a bed if need be.
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Jul 23, 2011 23:43
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melon cat posted:I'm building a mini-greenhouse for some plants we're growing. My first project when I moved into an apartment after college was to build a study collapse able workbench. 3/4" MDF for the top, with 2x4 supports and a hinge in the middle to fold it up, and clasps and handles to hold it shut and move it. I used 4x4 legs, stored inside the bench. Was extremely sturdy, and served me well for many projects after that. If I did it over again, I think I'd build a non-collapsing 3x6' frame out of 2x3s, and just lay it on two sawhorses.
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Jul 23, 2011 23:54
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particle409 posted:Specifically, you can buy "repair kits" from any place that have a bunch of generic rubber washers (or buy ones specifically for Kohler) at Home Depot for about $3. Unscrew the nut holding down everything, pull out the "stem" (that whole piece in there), and just replace any rubber ring you see. Also, look down in the hole after you pull out the stem, and you will probably see a little rubber button with a spring under it. Pull that out, replace it as well. I realize my post was somewhat vague, let me clarify: The red is where I'll install wood boards inside the bottom of the lightbox. The blue and green is the actual light unit I will attach to the wood board. Then, I'll cut holes in some drywall (should I use drywall there?) and put it up over the lightbox. Has anybody had any success with easy to install lights? I have no idea which light units to purchase. edit: Let me not be a complete idiot and forget to add the pic. 
particle409 fucked around with this message at 09:15 on Jul 24, 2011 |
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Jul 24, 2011 02:12
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particle409 posted:I realize my post was somewhat vague, let me clarify: So you want to block out the light box with drywall, and install a pair of recessed lights instead. Then have a separate switch for each light? If I read this right, then it is not difficult to block off the box area, and install the lights. If you want separate switches, then you may need to widen the opening in the wall far enough to install a larger box that can hold two switches. Did the original fluorescents each have a wire run down to the one switch?> Or were they tied together at a junction box in the lightbox, with a single run from there down to the awitch? (edit) OK it looks like you'd have to run a second wire down to the light switch so that you could operate each light. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Jul 24, 2011 |
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Jul 24, 2011 13:25
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