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Fangs404 posted:You might check svrider's for sale section. A ton of people part out busted bikes, and you might be able to find some good deals on parts you need. Delkevic sells replacement radiators for cheap, worth a shot if you can't find a nice used one.
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Jul 25, 2011 03:22
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Will levers labelled for an SV650 fit a 1000? I'm going to finally replace the "custom shortened" clutch lever from when I laid it on its side in my driveway, and I want to make sure I don't need to specifically find a pair for a 1000.
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Jul 25, 2011 03:22
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Have SV650's went up about a grand in value on average? I priced a lot of bikes two years ago but decided against buying one while still in college, and now that I'm trying to find another it seems like they're all around $4000 
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Jul 25, 2011 20:48
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headshot24 posted:Have SV650's went up about a grand in value on average? I priced a lot of bikes two years ago but decided against buying one while still in college, and now that I'm trying to find another it seems like they're all around $4000 1600 
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Jul 25, 2011 21:07
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Question on fork oil weight and how that interacts with gold valve emulators. After about 800 miles on the new suspension I am really enjoying the responsiveness of it now. It still feels a touch unstable at highway speeds but I think that has more to do with my weight and the height of the center of gravity of the bike. Anyway. The front end feels a little "springy" or "pogoing" at times when I roll over a quick series of bumps on a normaly smooth road. It's got 12.5 weight oil in the forks (half 10/half 15) per recomendations of the guy at sonic spring. I'm wondering if it might just need some adjustment of the emulator preload or if I should leave that alone and go with 15 weight? I suck at suspension setup so any suggestions on what I should try first would be great.
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Jul 26, 2011 06:05
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What adjustment do you have on the emulator? Pogoing means you generally don't have enough rebound damping.
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Jul 26, 2011 06:42
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Z3n posted:What adjustment do you have on the emulator? Pogoing means you generally don't have enough rebound damping. It's the Racetech gold emulators, they just have the valve adjustment to fine tune dampening. We left them at the middle of the adjustment range. If I wanted to increase the dampening effect I would close the valve a little to increase the resistance? or am I thinking of that wrong?
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Jul 26, 2011 18:43
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Spiffness posted:1600 It's probably one of those inferior curvies  I am jealous as gently caressI guess I'll wait until people get rid of their bikes this winter.
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Jul 26, 2011 18:57
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Tindjin posted:It's the Racetech gold emulators, they just have the valve adjustment to fine tune dampening. We left them at the middle of the adjustment range. If I wanted to increase the dampening effect I would close the valve a little to increase the resistance? or am I thinking of that wrong? If I recall correctly (I probably don't), they're marked from 1-4 or 1-5 and the higher numbers are going to be more damping. You are correct that you would close the valve to increase resistance and thusly damping, though. headshot24 posted:It's probably one of those inferior curvies He got the most insane deal I have ever seen on an SV650. It's not a curvy. And he has like 2 bikes worth of spares. 
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Jul 26, 2011 20:10
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Probably a dumb question...I replaced the rear shock on my SV650 this weekend, took the forks to a shop, got them back with Traxxion internals installed, put them back on, and noticed that both my front and rear brakes are rubbing on the rotors a bit when you spin the wheel. I never checked this before since I just got the bike but that's not normal right?
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Jul 27, 2011 05:21
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Totally normal. Best way to check if you're getting dangerous levels of rub is to go around the block while not using one or the other brake and checking if the rotors get warm. Usually you'll get ~2 rotations on the front wheel if you spin it, ~1 on the rear because of the chain. The pads get pressed back into the caliper by the rotors spinning so a little drag is normal.
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Jul 27, 2011 05:44
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http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/mcy/2473235817.html This frankenbike is the best thing I've found lately 
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Jul 27, 2011 19:34
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That thing is pretty rough cosmetically, but should be good mechanically. I'd want to double check all of the mods though, make sure they were done right. I'm pretty sure that exhaust will drag in hard corners or under track use. Still, could be a good deal if you can get him closer to 2k. Drop a coat of flat black and spend the rest of the money on suspension upgrades.
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Jul 27, 2011 19:59
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I'm just lamenting my situation. I gotta have a faired bike on my commute.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:17
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headshot24 posted:I'm just lamenting my situation. I gotta have a faired bike on my commute. Any reason in particular you need a fairing? e: Might as well ask this here: how involved is the valve clearance check at the 15k service interval for an '04? I took a glance at the procedure and it looked pretty involved, but my local shop quoted me 2 hours to inspect, and a total of 4 hours if they need adjusting, with a 90/hour shop rate. Is this something I should just figure out how to do myself and buy the specialized tools I assume I'll need? bsamu fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jul 27, 2011 |
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Jul 27, 2011 20:19
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headshot24 posted:http://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/mcy/2473235817.html There's tons of cool stuff around this area, you just have to watch CL like a hawk. http://huntsville.craigslist.org/mcy/2511888606.html
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Jul 27, 2011 20:22
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^^ If he had the title in hand I'd give him a call. bladesamurai posted:Any reason in particular you need a fairing? Not really. Cosmetically I don't like the look of a screen on a naked bike, but I'd be riding 75 miles on the interstate daily, so I know I'd need one. It's just personal preference, I guess. I rode a naked on the interstate not too long ago and felt like a goddamn sail. Finding something like this is my wet dream. Groveling Toast fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Jul 27, 2011 |
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Jul 27, 2011 20:22
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headshot24 posted:Not really. Cosmetically I don't like the look of a screen on a naked bike, but I'd be riding 75 miles on the interstate daily, so I know I'd need one. It's just personal preference, I guess. I rode a naked on the interstate not too long ago and felt like a goddamn sail. I just ask because I ride 15 miles 1 way to work everyday on the interstate at 80+ and I've done multiple highway jaunts for 3 hours and I have a naked bike. Definitely takes some getting used to but the relaxed riding position is pretty nice.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:36
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headshot24 posted:^^ If he had the title in hand I'd give him a call. Buy my Ninja instead so I can get an SV.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:40
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headshot24 posted:^^ If he had the title in hand I'd give him a call. Personal taste, but I vastly prefer clean, unfairinged air to a partial fairing like you have on an SV650. If you can get under the bubble, or the front fairing is tall enough to shoot the air over your head, it can be nice, but for daily riding, I'd much rather have consistent windblast across my entire body that I can lean into than a lipped windscreen pushing a stream of turbulent air into my shoulders and head. Nothing's more frustrating than sore wrists plus a sore neck when if you didn't have a windshield you wouldn't be carrying all your weight on your wrists and your head would move with your body rather than constantly having to fight the windblast.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:47
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Fair enough. I should probably just get one of each...for science...  The fiancee wants to get into riding though, so I doubt that'll fly when she doesn't have a bike.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:52
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How long can I delay a valve adjustment? just got hit with unexpected medical bills which means my budget is horribly blown for a while. Bike has 17k miles on it already and the interval is 15k. I had been planning on taking it somewhere next week as to be honest I don't feel all that comfortable doing it myself on this bike at this stage (I'm getting there.. I feel much more comfortable with breaking my wifes suzuki savage..). I got quoted $400-450 to get it done. Strangely enough the Suzuki dealer was the cheapest place. If I let this slip another 500-1000 miles would that be sacrilegious?
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Aug 4, 2011 18:25
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GanjamonII posted:How long can I delay a valve adjustment? just got hit with unexpected medical bills which means my budget is horribly blown for a while. Bike has 17k miles on it already and the interval is 15k. Check them yourself. The check is easy, it's the adjustment that's a little harder. If the bike isn't hard starting when hot, you're ok to let it slide another 1k.
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Aug 4, 2011 18:30
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Z3n posted:Check them yourself. The check is easy, it's the adjustment that's a little harder. If the bike isn't hard starting when hot, you're ok to let it slide another 1k. Thanks. The bike always fires up quickly with out any fuss so I'll put it off for another month or so.
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Aug 4, 2011 18:46
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So went ahead and switched out the fork oil on my bike from 10weight to 15 weight.. Holy poo poo the suspension is acting so much better. No pogo activity, the tires are sticking to the road and is feeling more stable at highway speeds. I think it's at a point now of how this bike is supposed to run. I did a short run around the city to check out the changes, came home grabbed my camelback and went on a 2 hour ride. drat I love a well tuned bike.
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Aug 5, 2011 05:36
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Teh gf played with Illustrator. This is her SV.
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Aug 9, 2011 19:59
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So today was work on the bike day. My goals were to clean the carbs (primary goal), replace the spark plugs, check the air filter, and do a coolant flush. I've been having some idling issues once the bike is warm (it sometimes dies at stop lights), and I had to use the choke every time I started the bike, so I figured it's probably clogged jets. Good news: - The air filter is a K&N, so it's washable! I wasn't expecting this. I was expecting an extremely gross OEM filter, but one of the previous owners changed it. - Replacing the spark plugs was definitely necessary:  The one on the left is the front plug. It's a royal pain in the rear end to get to because of the radiator, but between me and my buddy, we were eventually able to pull it out. I have a feeling the previous owner(s) changed the rear plug because it's easy, had a hard time with the front, and said gently caress it. The good news is that the bike starts really fast, and I don't actually need the choke on to start it now! Bad news: - I couldn't pull the carbs. There's a screw holding a bracket for the throttle cable that goes into the rear carb, and that screw absolutely wouldn't budge. We stripped it and then used a hack saw to create a really deep groove that should've allowed us to use a flat head screwdriver, and it still wouldn't budge. I honestly don't know how to get it out. We tried a vice grip but couldn't get a good enough grip on it to turn it. So after about 4 hours of work, all I was able to do was check the air filter and replace the spark plugs. However, on the way home, I never once experienced the idle issue! Because the front plug was so lovely, I'm really hoping that was the cause of my idle issues. If so, I can just say gently caress it to the carb cleaning for now. Fangs404 fucked around with this message at 07:04 on Aug 10, 2011 |
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Aug 10, 2011 06:54
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Very quick question: If I put on a 120/70 Q2 on the front vs the 120/60 Q2 on there currently and raise the forks about 10mm in the triples it should work pretty good right?
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Aug 14, 2011 00:20
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GanjamonII posted:Very quick question: If I put on a 120/70 Q2 on the front vs the 120/60 Q2 on there currently and raise the forks about 10mm in the triples it should work pretty good right? Don't bother raising the forks, just swap the Q2 on first and see how it feels. Different profile means you might prefer it at stock height.
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Aug 14, 2011 00:46
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I am, unfortunately, in the market for a new engine after the one in my SV poo poo the bed (it looks like I was a little quick to jump on the purchase, but it's been a good mix of teaching me how to work on problems with the bike). After going back and forth over trying to decide if it was worth it to drop the money on the engine and then have it installed at the shop (I unfortunately don't have the tools/knowledge at the moment to do something of this scale on my own) I've gotten a price. My question is that the best local option I've found is a 1999 SV650 engine for $800. It's got 8k miles on it and appears to be in good shape. Is that a good price? I'd be into the bike about $3900 all said and done after the motor was swapped in, and while I'm slightly worried about it becoming a money-pit, I figure that after an entire engine swap there couldn't be much else huge that could go wrong.
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Aug 15, 2011 17:50
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Alright SV goons, I have some stupid noob questions. But first, my new biek:  So today, I changed the oil and filter, and took it out for a short ride around the neighborhood. I noticed a couple of things: - The rear brake squeaks at low speed. The pressure I apply doesn't seem to matter, even lightly braking below 10mph or so causes some squeaking. Do the brake pads need replacing, or could the rotor just be dirty? - When rolling off the throttle, I hear some popping from the exhaust. It seems to happen more when I let off from higher rpm. I know I read about this a while ago in the questions megathread, but for the life of me I can't remember what causes it. - The cable that connects the rear seat lock to the catch is cracked, rusted, and seized. How should I go about removing/replacing it? Also, should there be a compartment under the rear seat? Looks like the PO may have removed it, I can easily see and touch the underside of the seat itself. - I don't seem to have rear turn signals. Should I? 
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Aug 17, 2011 23:06
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Schottingham posted:Alright SV goons, I have some stupid noob questions. But first, my new biek: The brakes may need replacement, or they just didn't get warn in properly. Either way they're like $30 for a set so no big deal. The popping is most likely caused by the exhaust being aftermarket and not muffling the pops that you would hear with the stock muffler. Also, if it's not tuned for the exhaust that could be the culprit as well. As far as the seat goes, he probably was going to do an undertail tidy thingy, but then instead just took out the undertail. As you see here (http://www.hamicad.co.uk/SV_Fender/IMAG007A.JPG) there is supposed to be some black plastic that is there to keep debris/wetness out of the battery comparement. For your rear signals, see above, they're part of the undertail. Enjoy your new bike!
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Aug 17, 2011 23:10
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Yeah, that exhaust wouldn't have been my choice. In fact, I may have to swap it back for stock so I can use saddlebags or panniers. What does it mean for an engine to be 'tuned' for a particular exhaust? What would I be adjusting? Another question: Should the same key operate the ignition, gas tank, and seat lock? I got two keys from the PO which have the same number on them, and are cut similarly but not exactly identical. One will operate the ignition and open the gas tank, but not even budge the seat lock. The other will not operate the ignition, but will turn the seat lock to the point where it seizes from rust (don't think I tried it in the gas tank). This is not normal, right? Should a suzuki dealer be able to order me a new one given the key number?
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Aug 17, 2011 23:38
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Schottingham posted:Yeah, that exhaust wouldn't have been my choice. In fact, I may have to swap it back for stock so I can use saddlebags or panniers. What does it mean for an engine to be 'tuned' for a particular exhaust? What would I be adjusting? Yes, they are all the same lock assuming nothing has been tampered with. As for the tune, IIRC the curvie frames are carb'd so you'd have to rejet the carbs to tune it properly. With just an aftermarket muffler I don't think it's that detrimental, but I could be talking out of my rear end 100%. I ran mine for 10k miles with no tune and an aftermarket exhaust with nothing but the sweet sound of the motor in my ear. Mine was an 07 though, so fuel injected.
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Aug 17, 2011 23:41
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Internet tells 1st gen SV650 only came with a PAIR system in CA, so if you have a CA model it could be causing the popping. You can disable it but it doesn't do anything for power and just increases your emissions. Plus I like the popping sound on my 2nd gen, I can set off car alarms in the work car park if I time it right. I got my tire changed tonight, was going to be the monday night but work interrupted. I ended up having the mechanic drop the front end about 10mm because I was kinda set on doing it. I have a track day on Saturday and I figure if I don't like it there will be a million people who would lend me their front stand for 10 minutes there. So far I've only ridden it about 10-15 miles home but it definitely felt different when cornering. I do like it, but I'm not yet sure why. I want to say it feels more predictable or stable when leaning over, but it might also just be the fresh new tire feeling. Edit - I wouldn't replace your aftermarket can with a stock exhaust.. SV stock exhaust is a loving travesty when it comes to sound.
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Aug 18, 2011 01:40
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A bit more info about popping: Aftermarket pipes tend to make bikes run a bit rich if left untuned. When a bike runs rich, it's shooting extra gas into the cylinders that doesn't end up getting ignited. When that extra gas cycles through the exhaust, it usually just flies out from the pressure. However, when you left off the throttle, nothing is pushing the extra gas out, causing it hang out long enough to be ignited by the hot exhaust. I think. So in the end, your gas mileage is a bit worse off. I don't know if there are any other immediate detriments to running rich, but there probably is.
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Aug 18, 2011 02:13
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headshot24 posted:Fair enough. I should probably just get one of each...for science... I know I'm a bit late to the party with this response, but I recently took an 800 or so mile trip on a supermoto which had very minimal if any wind protection. Upon getting back, the next day I went and rode around my fully faired, upright sitting Kawasaki EX650. The difference wasn't as drastic as I thought it would be in regard to wind buffeting. The fairings took a bit of the wind off my chest and legs, but my arms and head were still very much so being pushed by the wind at highway speeds. If you want my opinion, for lots of highway riding some loving excellent hearing protection will go way farther towards reducing your fatigue while riding than fairings will. And naked bikes look better.
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Aug 18, 2011 03:36
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Aftermarket exhausts make it run lean, not rich (less backpressure -> leaner, more backpressure -> richer). It pops because a lean burn won't always properly ignite, so you end up with unburned charge escaping when the exhaust port opens, which is then ignited by the hot gasses on the next firing sequence. You can also end up with popping if it gets really rich because it can't ignite all of the fuel in the mixture so some of it ends up in the pipe, where it combines with the air there and ignites on the gasses from the next firing. Almost all bikes will pop when you shut the throttle off, as you're generating a lean condition. Even stock bikes will do it, but usually a stock muffler makes it pretty much unhearable. I can hear it faintly on the KTM when I shut it down at high RPM, and that's bone stock. Don't worry about it. AncientTV posted:A bit more info about popping: Carbon buildup on the pistons and valves, potentially. Lean burns make the engine run hotter and make the bike more prone to detonation/pinging.
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Aug 18, 2011 03:56
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The percentage of error in my posts has dropped a bit from last year 
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Aug 18, 2011 06:51
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AncientTV posted:The percentage of error in my posts has dropped a bit from last year This stuff isn't exactly intuitive, haha.
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Aug 18, 2011 15:13
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