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What about Square-head/drive screws? Just recently I started reading about them and they prove to be better against over-torqing, head-stripping, and rust/paint. Seeing how many people are switching out all their Torx bolts out for something else, I might go for square heads. Anyone know of a good place where one could get a huge amount of these (for 2 YJs)?
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Jul 23, 2011 01:01
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Boomerjinks posted:Because they are supposed to be painted. Otherwise yeah I would have gone with hex heads. I painted all of my hexes. What of it? Zeo posted:I was trying it out on a 'car camping' trip before one of my actual long backpacking hikes. My opinion? Let the infantry hump in with nothing but a pack to their name. I've got a loving jeep! 
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Jul 23, 2011 01:04
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Steiler Drep posted:What about Square-head/drive screws? Just recently I started reading about them and they prove to be better against over-torqing, head-stripping, and rust/paint. Seeing how many people are switching out all their Torx bolts out for something else, I might go for square heads. Anyone know of a good place where one could get a huge amount of these (for 2 YJs)? If you can't get them from mcmaster-carr or fastenal there's no hope for the idea. 
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Jul 23, 2011 01:38
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Steiler Drep posted:I've always wondered how would it be to sleep a night in a hammock. Wouldn't your back hurt? My back wasn't bothering me, I thought it was more comfy than laying on the ground.
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Jul 23, 2011 02:33
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Zeo posted:My back wasn't bothering me, I thought it was more comfy than laying on the ground. My only issue with hammocks is if my feet are higher than my heart I wake up with frozen feet.
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Jul 23, 2011 03:05
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Sponge! posted:If you can't get them from mcmaster-carr or fastenal there's no hope for the idea. Just found out it's called the Robertson bolt/screw. It's supposed to have much larger advantages than torx/phillips/flat since it's almost impossible to screw the head up, but I can't find much about it. I want to replace all the screws in my YJ since I'm preparing to overhaul all the wiring as well as re-paint the floor. If I don't find it, I guess I'll get newer stainless steel Torx bits.
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Jul 23, 2011 06:35
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Steiler Drep posted:Just found out it's called the Robertson bolt/screw. It's supposed to have much larger advantages than torx/phillips/flat since it's almost impossible to screw the head up, but I can't find much about it. I want to replace all the screws in my YJ since I'm preparing to overhaul all the wiring as well as re-paint the floor. If I don't find it, I guess I'll get newer stainless steel Torx bits. Really, an internal wrenching configuration is something you use when you need a countersunk, button or flush-fitting cap head. In any situation where you've got access, an externally-wrenched fastener is going to give you a stronger tooling interface. If it's not strength critical (i.e. non-structural panelling, accessory mounting), the stainless torx screws are probably your best bet.
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Jul 23, 2011 08:29
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So i ordered 2 inch spacers and a better air intake for my 09 JK from quadratec, right? They send me the air intake, no problem. What arrives with it? A 3 1/2" full lift kit for a YJ. 
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Jul 24, 2011 07:25
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Minion of Cthulhu posted:So i ordered 2 inch spacers and a better air intake for my 09 JK from quadratec, right? They send me the air intake, no problem. What arrives with it? A 3 1/2" full lift kit for a YJ. 
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Jul 24, 2011 12:38
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I'll buy the spacers and trade you even-up!
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Jul 24, 2011 15:21
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That's not a throttle body spacer you ordered is it?
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Jul 24, 2011 17:21
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Finally got the front flatties on. Now my 31's look small and skinny. I kind of wanted to regear before going any larger with the rubber, but it's not like I drive every single day. Should I slap some 33's in now? 
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Jul 24, 2011 19:31
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Have you got room in the rear for 33s?
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Jul 24, 2011 20:25
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For normal driving I think they'd be fine, but I'd probably rub a little bit under moderate articulation. The closest point of contact is the lower front corner of the flare; about 2-1/4" clearance. So roughly 1-1/4" after 33's but some gained back after trimming for the new flares (still need to order ugh).
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Jul 24, 2011 20:45
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They charged me for the 2" coil spacers. And now the email i sent them is bouncing back and forth in limbo. I'm calling them tomorrow. On the other hand, the new intake gave my JK a little more pep and rumble to the engine 
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Jul 24, 2011 20:51
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So I just paid off my 2005 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7L. Naturally, I took it into the shop to make sure everything was ok...and naturally, it was not. They said I needed front differential service, rear differential service, serpentine belt, front pinion seal, rear transfer case output seal, power steering hose, front rotors, rear rotor, steering gear, rear pinion shaft seal and gasket, tie rod end for the right outer, as well as a host of other crap. My rotors were ground back in 2009, so I thought that was hogwash. I only had them do the steering gear, rear differential, rear pinion shaft and the tie road. That alone came to $1500, and the rest would be $2k. And naturally, after I drive it off and take it home, it makes a weird noise so I bring it back the next day. Apparently a bearing was too tight and burned out, taking with it my parking break system (which I never used). A simple brake and vehicle inspection has turned into a loving nightmare.
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Jul 24, 2011 21:56
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Minion of Cthulhu posted:They charged me for the 2" coil spacers. My offer still stands. I'll pay the shipping!
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Jul 24, 2011 22:22
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Omne posted:So I just paid off my 2005 Jeep Liberty Sport 3.7L. Naturally, I took it into the shop to make sure everything was ok...and naturally, it was not. Were you having issues or did you just bend over and let them feel around with no lube?
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Jul 24, 2011 22:44
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EightBit posted:Were you having issues or did you just bend over and let them feel around with no lube? Don't worry! You don't have to internalize this. There's people you can go to for help!
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Jul 24, 2011 23:02
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EightBit posted:Were you having issues or did you just bend over and let them feel around with no lube? I was definitely having some issues. I thought it was the brakes, but I could hear and feel the car having difficulty when turning. I have heard that once Jeep's get to 100k they start to fall apart.
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Jul 24, 2011 23:09
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Omne posted:I have heard that once Jeep's get to 100k they start to fall apart. My '01 Cherokee is at 141k and is doing pretty darn well. It does have a squeak from the steering box, but I can live with that. Maybe it's the Daimler Jeeps that you've been hearing about?
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Jul 25, 2011 01:52
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Omne posted:I was definitely having some issues. I thought it was the brakes, but I could hear and feel the car having difficulty when turning. My TJ has 140,000 miles and the only thing that's "falling apart" are bushings in the suspension. What are you doing to yours to trash it so?
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Jul 25, 2011 02:09
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Omne posted:
What do they do when they get to 200k? I'm around there myself. 
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Jul 25, 2011 02:50
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I had a '93 Cherokee that I sold at 297,xxx...I never did any serious work to it, and there were no signs that anyone else had, either.
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Jul 25, 2011 02:52
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Well, an '05 Liberty is hardly the same flesh and blood as an XJ, you know...
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Jul 25, 2011 02:55
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He said "Jeep's"[sic]. v v
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Jul 25, 2011 02:58
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Nevermind, got it.
Boomerjinks fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jul 27, 2011 |
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Jul 27, 2011 18:55
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Kibblesnbits posted:Well, an '05 Liberty is hardly the same flesh and blood as an XJ, you know... What travesty is this?
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Jul 27, 2011 18:57
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Omne posted:I was definitely having some issues. I thought it was the brakes, but I could hear and feel the car having difficulty when turning. funny, my 87 xj was at 300,000 when I sold it to a friend. I'll have to ask what it's up to now. [edit] I guess it was falling apart though, I mean, the AM/FM Electronic Tuning factory stereo stopped being able to play casette tapes. 
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Jul 27, 2011 19:22
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Driving home from work Monday, the YJ started bogging down, then gave off the burning brakes smell. When I got home and parked it, smoke was billowing from the right front wheel. Inspection this morning has revealed that both calipers are frozen.  I put pads on it when I resurrected it last year, so I don't think it's slides/pins.E: Nope. Prying the rotors in and out on the hubs has the calipers sliding along smoothly, and I can't force the pistons back in. gently caress. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Jul 27, 2011 |
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Jul 27, 2011 19:25
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Bucephalus posted:Driving home from work Monday, the YJ started bogging down, then gave off the burning brakes smell. When I got home and parked it, smoke was billowing from the right front wheel. Inspection this morning has revealed that both calipers are frozen. Same happened to me. Time for new pistons, or change the whole caliper (rotors would be nice as well). Autozone will sell them for like $30 each when you give them yours, which isn't bad at all.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:55
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Steiler Drep posted:Same happened to me. Time for new pistons, or change the whole caliper (rotors would be nice as well). Autozone will sell them for like $30 each when you give them yours, which isn't bad at all. Also might want to check the brake hoses, I had a ford roast its caliper, turned out the brake line had collapsed internally and would only let fluid in, not out.
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Jul 27, 2011 21:02
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Yeah, the hoses-as-check-valves thing had crossed my mind. I need to replace both calipers anyhow, they got hot enough to melt the piston dust boots. Might as well just do it all in 1 shot. (20yo Jeep with 187,xxx miles).
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Jul 27, 2011 21:27
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I broke my Scrambler. Shortish story: swapped out the stock dash for a nice shiny stainless one because the stock had a hole cut into it for the crappy stereo that didn't work. Considering the soft top on it didn't lock, the broken stereo was quickly stolen and I had a gaping hole in the dash. NEW DASH TIME! Labeled everything as I pulled the wires, put all the gauges into the new dash and hooked everything back up. Started and ran for about five seconds, then died. I have no power behind the dash. Nothing. Battery is fine. Fusible links are fine. Thought it might be the ground off the battery but I have continuity to the block; however, the body isn't grounded. Is this the problem? I suck at electrical work.
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Jul 27, 2011 23:40
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So it looks like tomorrow my Cherokee will go into new hands. I don't know if it saddens me or not but I've only driven it 4 times in the last 3 months.
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Jul 28, 2011 02:22
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Rhyno posted:So it looks like tomorrow my Cherokee will go into new hands. I don't know if it saddens me or not but I've only driven it 4 times in the last 3 months. If it goes somewhere where it's appreciated, I consider that a good thing.
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Jul 28, 2011 02:31
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Doccers posted:If it goes somewhere where it's appreciated, I consider that a good thing. My mother's boyfriend's best friend's daughter in law. She's a single mother of two and her car (an 81 Chevy i think) gave it up for good a few months ago. I'm giving a really good deal so they can spend the rest on fixing the little stuff that needs to be done (no AC, needs alignment). I hope she likes it.
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Jul 28, 2011 02:34
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skrapp mettle posted:I broke my Scrambler. Shortish story: swapped out the stock dash for a nice shiny stainless one because the stock had a hole cut into it for the crappy stereo that didn't work. Considering the soft top on it didn't lock, the broken stereo was quickly stolen and I had a gaping hole in the dash. NEW DASH TIME! Labeled everything as I pulled the wires, put all the gauges into the new dash and hooked everything back up. Started and ran for about five seconds, then died. I have no power behind the dash. Nothing. Battery is fine. Fusible links are fine. Thought it might be the ground off the battery but I have continuity to the block; however, the body isn't grounded. Is this the problem? I suck at electrical work. I did a complete dash replacement on my YJ (went to a CJ7 one) and didn't have any issues like you mentioned. the STOCK CJ7 (and I would assume CJ8) wiring requires the dash be grounded for idiot lights to work. Shouldn't effect starting the jeep though.
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Jul 28, 2011 03:04
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commissargribb posted:I did a complete dash replacement on my YJ (went to a CJ7 one) and didn't have any issues like you mentioned. the STOCK CJ7 (and I would assume CJ8) wiring requires the dash be grounded for idiot lights to work. Shouldn't effect starting the jeep though. Dash was stock and takes the same wiring harness as a CJ7. Standard 4.2L inline 6 with a Mopar fuel injection on it. I'm second owner of the thing and I'm as sure as I can be that I labeled as I went along and hooked it up same way. Dash is connected to the bodyy. Lights do not turn on which I know isn't tied to the ignition (left the lights on with ignition off and had to jump it once). Maybe voltage gauge? I've heard everything is run through that. Next step is to tow the SOB to a real shop and make them scratch their heads over it. skrapp mettle fucked around with this message at 06:32 on Jul 28, 2011 |
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Jul 28, 2011 06:24
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I wired up LED turn signals & lights, wipers, and the horn through trial and error and blind luck on my CJ5. It was already a rats nest when I started, and somehow, everything works...pretty much. You'll either have to run back through the entire process, take it to a pro, or you'll accidentally find the fix and forget that anything was ever wrong with it. And a few pages back, whoever said that the new JK8 truck conversion was crap, why would you say that? That kit looks awesome, and at about $5k it's not too pricey. Now, as long as I can shoehorn my CRD engine in there, I'm all for it.
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Jul 28, 2011 15:03
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