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Cakefool posted:Anyone know if a bumper off an early C70 will fit on the same era ('99) V70? I found a C70 in the right colour being broken up not too far away. I know they look different but what's the chances of the mountings etc being different? Mountings are identical, it's a very common mod for a C70 to put a V70R bumper on. I've read the C70 bumper looks weird on the square cars, but I've never seen it. The hood, grille, headlights, and turn signals are all identical as well, but the fenders do not cross over.
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Jul 17, 2011 05:09
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here's a nice 855r for sale in the boston area http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/cto/2499390046.html oh, it just so happens to be mine full disclosure for goons: the abs brake sensor wiring issue throws a tranny arrow ("p0500 speed sensor"), drives fine though (wiring must be shorted somewhere on the way to the tranny, but communicates with the ecu fine) flame trap and pcv should probably be done soon just due to the age of the vehicle (didn't end up getting around to it) slight vibration at 70mph or so, i think it's my loose tailgate bouncin' (bitch doesn't sit quite right no matter how much i gently caress with the tailgate struts, etc.) gonna take some detailed pictures of the rough spots and such tomorrow anyway if any goons in the area just wanna go for a joyride, lemme know what do y'all think about the pricing? asking $3500, was looking for $3200 or so after tires are kicked
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Jul 18, 2011 00:15
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I posted this in the used car thread but it should go here too: http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201128402737540 Quarter million mile 2.3t 850 for £582, looks very tidy, I'd get it if I had the space.
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Jul 18, 2011 07:34
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Does anyone in here have much experience with the B-30 engine? Specifically I'm looking at possibly converting a B-30A to a B-30E, (carb to fuel injection), and there's not a whole lot of into available on the net for this.
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Jul 18, 2011 21:53
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Doccers posted:Does anyone in here have much experience with the B-30 engine? Specifically I'm looking at possibly converting a B-30A to a B-30E, (carb to fuel injection), and there's not a whole lot of into available on the net for this. I'm not a expert on the things, but I believe that the B30E used Bosch D-Jetronic in its fuel-injected form. Parts availability for that particular EFI system is very poor in general nowadays. I'm sure that it's possible to do the conversion, but I have no idea what parts you'd need, and you'd probably pay dearly for everything involved. It'd probably be easier to have someone make a custom EFI intake manifold and set it up with Megasquirt or some other third-party EMS.
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Jul 18, 2011 23:50
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TheJeffers posted:I'm not a expert on the things, but I believe that the B30E used Bosch D-Jetronic in its fuel-injected form. Parts availability for that particular EFI system is very poor in general nowadays. I'm sure that it's possible to do the conversion, but I have no idea what parts you'd need, and you'd probably pay dearly for everything involved. It'd probably be easier to have someone make a custom EFI intake manifold and set it up with Megasquirt or some other third-party EMS. Thank you, I'll look into that.  Parts availability in general is going to be the bane of this project.
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Jul 19, 2011 00:15
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I had a '68 122s when I was in college. I'll have to dig up a photo. B18 engine with two single-barrel carbs and a 3-speed automatic transmission. 0-60 was something like 20 seconds. I had to sell it because I couldn't afford both school and car maintenance. Someday I will have another Amazon.
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Jul 19, 2011 05:50
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I found an '88 740, I want it as a city beater to save my C300 from getting destroyed by street parking stupidity. I couldn't test the A/C because the slider was jammed. The dash looks like a fjord, the paint is terrible, the brakes were probably bad (though I managed to lock them up) but otherwise it runs and drives fine. The guy was willing to do $500. The seat seems really high, I'm only 6' and I've never had this issue. Is this a 'thing' about these cars?
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Jul 26, 2011 15:05
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There's a lever in front of the seat belt buckle, if you push it forward you can adjust the tilt of the front of the seat with relation to the rails and if you push it back you can adjust the tilt of the rear of the seat. If you max them both out upward, the seat is high as poo poo. If you max out the back down and leave the front most of the way up, I can drive it comfortably at 6'7". 740s have the most adjustable seats I've ever encountered.
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Jul 26, 2011 16:07
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740 seats don't go quite low enough for my tastes. They needed just a little more adjustment than they had. I think the power seats didn't go as low as the manual ones, which was really annoying.
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Jul 26, 2011 19:08
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The height of the seat rails in the 240 Volvos changed in '86, I'm not 100% sure on the 740 but you can mount the pre-'85 ones in later 240s and it lowers the seat by about 1.5-2 inches. I first noticed this when I drove my dad's '86 for the first time after 5 years of driving an '83 and an '85, and my drat hair was bumping the roofliner every time I hit an concrete seam on the highway (or any other bump). I'm about 6'1"
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Jul 26, 2011 21:25
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Doccers posted:Thank you, I'll look into that. If you get all the D-Jet stuff off a 164e, then it shouldn't be too hard to Megasquirt your B30. It doesn't grow on trees, but it's not vaporware either.
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Jul 27, 2011 21:45
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zundfolge posted:If you get all the D-Jet stuff off a 164e, then it shouldn't be too hard to Megasquirt your B30. It doesn't grow on trees, but it's not vaporware either. Cool. I'm not really looking for much more power, but considering the type of driving I'm going to be doing with it, it's going to be a lot of severe altitude changes, which carbs have trouble with as I recall, in Any type of engine.
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Jul 27, 2011 22:39
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I've had a '89 740 Turbo (auto) for a few years now, although my friend has been driving it for ages while I DD a MPS3. It has many issues, but neither of us want to get rid of it, nor are we any good at working on cars. Its just an awesome dog-cock red car with a lot of personality. It has lots of problems, needs a new exhaust gasket, aircon needs fixing, trim replacing, new headlining (seems common...) and much more. I have an idea where to start with these problems. What I am not sure about is the intermittant stalling (again, its an auto) which crops up from time to time during rain, and it often fails to start. Any ideas on where to start looking? I imagine it is a short circuit somewhere...
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Jul 28, 2011 11:05
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Lilbeefer posted:I've had a '89 740 Turbo (auto) for a few years now, although my friend has been driving it for ages while I DD a MPS3. Is any water leaking into the cabin when it rains? Your issue sounds similar to what I had on my 240 and that turned out to be moisture coming in through the windshield seal. Since that was fixed I haven't had any issues at all. You could try checking the carpet on the floor for moisture to see if that's a possibility. The other likely issues that came up when I was researching my problem were a cracked distributor or a bad crank position sensor. I believe the engine on a 740 is the same as the 240 with the addition of a turbo, so these might give you a place to start.
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Jul 28, 2011 14:34
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This guy has posted this for a couple months. http://savannah.craigslist.org/cto/2477261212.html Buy now or hold out?
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Aug 3, 2011 02:18
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I say go grab it and if it runs strong and is as cosmetically nice as he says, beat him down on the price some more knowing that the pan gasket issue is far more likely a rear main seal issue caused by the PCV system needing a refresh. The PCV is a couple hundred in parts but you can probably do it yourself, the rear main is $600 or so if you have a shop do it, it requires pulling the tranny aside. Maybe he's right, but just be prepared to deal with that if he's not. Everything else he listed is a relatively easy fix, the stereo issue is probably a blown amp fuse. The odometer issue has a kit to fix it with tons of instructions all over the web. Drop $1500 on that car fixing everything and you'll have a real head-turner. Also, make him pull the check engine code before you buy. LloydDobler fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 17:29
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Longshot, but is anyone in here familiar with the older volvo commerical trucks? I'm having a bit of a problem tracking down a steering wheel adapter for my toy, I *THINK* that it uses the same fixed steering column out of other volvo commercial trucks of the era (late 70's, early 80's), but I have no way to tell. Like I said, a longshot, but if anyone knows anything about that era of trucks for volvo, I'm all ears for any information I can get. Thanks!
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Aug 3, 2011 17:41
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LloydDobler posted:Thanks for the wisdom, LD!
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Aug 3, 2011 21:56
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After selling my 940 Turbo last year, I again want to get another Volvo and I'm going old this time around. Found a '79 265 near my place and just went to check it out today. The fuel distributor is a bit gummed up, it was in storage for like eight years, and runs rough as hell. Other than that, the body is amazing and interior is drat good other than a torn up driver's seat. It's got close to 300k miles and the AC was converted to r134a, thankfully. So the question is, does anyone have experience with the PRV 2.7L engine? It was in such odd cars as the DeLorean and is an interesting motor, being a combined effort by Puegot, Renault, and Volvo. Parts are still available with some digging and I'm willing to pull it out of the car and completely rebuild the whole thing. Volvo put in a new engine under the recall for the bad oiling system, so it's apparently the third iteration that isn't as problematic. Oh and here's what it looks like. Paint is incredible for something this old and other than a broken taillight, the rest of the exterior is killer. Chrome is still good on the luggage rack and all the trim. This guy bought it from the original owner two years ago and never got around to fixing the engine.  It was too dark for a good picture when I went and saw it earlier, that's from the listing. I'm planning on picking it up Saturday, unless we're unable to find a rebuild kit for the fuel distributor ($1400.00 for new one). I've looked on brickboard a bit and there isn't much on these engines other than a bunch of people whining about them. Also, the new parts DMC makes will apparently fit on this engine, other than the exhaust of course. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 04:33 on Aug 4, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 04:30
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In my limited experience, rebuild parts are very rare to nonexistent for the PRV. There are plenty of gaskets and stuff out there, but stuff like the shims for the cylinder liners (which you apparently need to do it right) are simply gone, if the experience of people on Turbobricks is any indication. However, you might be OK if you leave the bottom end alone-that's not the problem area for those motors. Like you noted, it's the cams. If the issue is indeed with the fueling system, then I'd just leave the engine internals alone and work on getting the K-Jet back in order. specialtauto.com has a lot of the parts you'll need, and k-jet.org has the manuals for the injection system, if not the B27 proper. Just make SURE to check the wiring harness for crispy/missing insulation on top of the engine and near the firewall-that's one part that you never see good replacements for. If it does need a rebuild, I'd probably just ditch the engine and go for something more common. The ROI just isn't there.
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Aug 4, 2011 06:43
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Just shooting the breeze here, but if I wanted stupid doriftu power out of a 240 how far can you sensibly go with the base engine? What other mods would be advisable (just better brakes or bigger/ brake swap etc), away bars, coilovers etc. at what point would you say gently caress it, transplant a new engine in?
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Aug 4, 2011 11:55
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Cakefool posted:Just shooting the breeze here, but if I wanted stupid doriftu power out of a 240 how far can you sensibly go with the base engine? What other mods would be advisable (just better brakes or bigger/ brake swap etc), away bars, coilovers etc. at what point would you say gently caress it, transplant a new engine in? People have gotten well over 300HP at the crank with a stock bottom end on Turbobricks. Problem with that is that you'll break the stock transmission and (probably) the rear end pretty quickly at that power level-they were never designed to handle anything like that. To add insult to injury, the stock diff is open, so it's not really suited to drifting (if that's your end goal). Long story short, the engine won't be the limiting factor.
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Aug 4, 2011 15:36
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zundfolge posted:People have gotten well over 300HP at the crank with a stock bottom end on Turbobricks. Problem with that is that you'll break the stock transmission and (probably) the rear end pretty quickly at that power level-they were never designed to handle anything like that. To add insult to injury, the stock diff is open, so it's not really suited to drifting (if that's your end goal). Not interested in drifting, just never owned a rwd car & getting an itch for something less practical. So a new transmission & diff would be on the shopping list? What swaps do people go for? If I was getting a donor car would it be worth it to get a complete engine/drivetrain to put in? I'm thinking BMW 530D M57 (210hp, 400 lb.ft)
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Aug 4, 2011 19:15
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zundfolge posted:In my limited experience, rebuild parts are very rare to nonexistent for the PRV. There are plenty of gaskets and stuff out there, but stuff like the shims for the cylinder liners (which you apparently need to do it right) are simply gone, if the experience of people on Turbobricks is any indication. However, you might be OK if you leave the bottom end alone-that's not the problem area for those motors. Like you noted, it's the cams. This is very helpful, good point on the shims I hadn't thought that far. And in the end, I've got a perfectly good EFI 302, T5 and 8.8" rear end that aren't being used if the PRV isn't fixable. The body on this car is just too good to pass up and hopefully I can get him down to $500 for it. LloydDobler posted:Definitely plan on ditching both K-jet and the V6. Either V8 swap, or B230FT from a 7 or 9 series. Both swaps are decently documented and not very hard. I'd like to try and mess with the PRV first just because it's such an interesting engine, but yeah it would be an amazing vehicle to transfer a 302 into. Even another turbo red block would be fun, but I'd rather have the V8. Sir Tonk fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 21:08
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Definitely plan on ditching both K-jet and the V6. Either V8 swap, or B230FT from a 7 or 9 series. Both swaps are decently documented and not very hard.
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Aug 4, 2011 21:54
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In your opinion, what's the best V8 writeup? I have that stupid urge myself lately. 
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Aug 6, 2011 02:53
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Well, I'm out of the redblock game in a few months as I'm finally transferring to college. My friend picked me up a 1997 s90 with 95k miles in absolutely mint condition for $1500, and if my unemployment insurance goes through, I'm picking up a 1994 Honda VFR750f to compensate for my incredibly small baby wiener/balance the slowness and lameness of a non-project daily driver. Questions: What are the flaws and strengths of this year s90? I've never dealt with a whiteblock before and any maintenance I can do on it myself is of course a plus. He's in the process of changing the timing belt for me. Anything else I should be wary of?
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Aug 6, 2011 20:45
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Splizwarf posted:In your opinion, what's the best V8 writeup? I have that stupid urge myself lately. Xovaan posted:Questions: What are the flaws and strengths of this year s90? I've never dealt with a whiteblock before and any maintenance I can do on it myself is of course a plus. He's in the process of changing the timing belt for me. Anything else I should be wary of? My dad's sold a ton of these, they routinely go over 200k like most Volvos, except the ones that throw the timing belt. That's the huge failure on these cars. The service interval is 70k and I'd do it every 50k just because of how many I've seen fail. And do not neglect the serp belt and tensioner, I'd do that every 25k just because when it fails, half the time it threads itself into the timing cover at the crank and takes out the timing belt. The only other failure I've heard of on these is tranny solenoids. Everything else is rock solid and bulletproof. Typical rubber suspension parts are probably on their way out on your car. Other than that, they're powerful enough, handle decent, are very smooth and luxurious, and there are almost zero mods to speak of unless you fabricate them yourself. You will not lower it, you will not put firm shocks on it, you will not put sway bars on it. These parts simply do not exist. You can, however, put FWD wheels on it without spacers, it has a FWD offset. Many parts are compatible with the 7 and 9 series, although less on the '95 and up cars.
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Aug 6, 2011 22:07
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Excellent info; thanks for the advice! As you've pointed out as a "common" problem with these cars, the serpentine belt shredded and got caught in the timing belt and made the exhaust cam skip two teeth, but luckily not enough to bend the valves. My friend (and master Volvo technician) is currently having it towed to his garage to inspect the engine and make sure everything's fine before giving it to me. It's getting new timing and serpentine belts as well as whatever he sees necessary, but apparently the interior is nearly perfect and the exterior has no scratches or dings at all (outside of the bumper, of course) My plan for the car is to further my knowledge in electronics and build a sound system fit for a cruiser of this nature. Hopefully I'll have the VFR750 for everything else. i could do a turbobricks special and put electrical tape on the lights and an expensive thule rack with nothing on it for mad forum cred
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Aug 7, 2011 01:55
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The rear lower control arm bushing have most likely collapsed, cause they last like 20k miles tops. They're otherwise quite nice. I'd hesitate to say the T-belts are prone to failure, it's more like the owners are prone to failing to replace them. They other thing is if they are very lightly driven, carbon tends to build up on the valve stems. They end up getting stuck open, the hydro lifters fill up, and they get shoved into the pistons. Solution: drive the piss out of it every once in a while. As for modifications...put some sweet wheels and good rubber on it. You can actually use 850 big brake kits if you wanted to, but they actually have pretty decent feel from the factory. edit:// Also I'm a 95+ 960/s90 machine so if it ever gives you poo poo send me a PM
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Aug 7, 2011 03:09
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Awesome. Thanks I think these cars look awesome with some nice wheels, as much as I hate car jewelry. Definitely baller status. Just got a pic from my friend:  Just a small paint crack in the front but other than that the car is flawless!
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Aug 7, 2011 03:43
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Went ahead and got the 265, thanks for the insight Lloyd. I updated my project thread with a few specifics and I'll be spending time in this thread again as the project moves along. It still smells like old gas, it was sitting for almost a decade, and the guy I got it from says he cleaned out the tank and put a new fuel filter on it, but it still smells like it hasn't gotten all the old gas out of the lines. Anyway, the fuel distributor is probably trashed and will need to be rebuilt. There's a video of it starting and running at the end of that thread. Goddamn the paint is terrific for such an old car. There's no way it's original, but he said he bought it from the original owner a year ago and he had taken care of it so maybe. There's a couple of rust spots on the hood and one at the base of the rear side window where water collects. I need to pull the roof rack too, as there is likely some rust under it. Interior is pretty good, other than a cracked shifter cap with the OD switch and hosed up boot. Also, the arm rest won't lock in place and rests on the rear window controls (who the hell designed this interior, it's bizarre). I've been reading alot on the stock PRV as well as the 302 swap the past few days and since the V8 kit is close to a grand, if the guy still sells it, I'm going to take the next few months and try to fix the engine its got. Volvo replaced it under some recall for the cams 150k miles ago, so it has under 200k on it at the moment and in theory it should be fixable. Current parts issues: can't find a new flame guard for the PCV system and holy poo poo is the fuel distributor expensive. Xovaan posted:Those look great in black, although yeah you need different wheels.
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Aug 7, 2011 04:47
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the poi posted:I'd hesitate to say the T-belts are prone to failure, it's more like the owners are prone to failing to replace them. Oh yeah, I agree with you there. I didn't mean prone so much as those are the only real major failures I've ever seen, so change it early rather than later. And 100% agreement about the wheels, these cars look great with anything other than stock. I loved mine and would have kept it if it were a wagon: 
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Aug 8, 2011 07:18
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Okay, my '92 740's speedometer needle doesn't move anymore no matter what the speed. Sensor in the diff and wiring (to the fender well at least) seem intact. Odometer mileage still continues to work correctly. If it turns out to still be plugged in when I pull the instrument cluster, I don't know where to go next; any advice?
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Aug 12, 2011 17:41
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Just swap the guts with a junkyard unit, there should be a million of them out there.
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Aug 12, 2011 22:34
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I'm about to purchase a 93 245 GL from my wife's friend. I'm not sure on mileage, but it has less than 200k miles on it, silver outside, gray cloth (thank god...no ruined leather), automatic, and meticulously maintained. The AC isn't working, but their mechanic says it's just the compressor. I know the 93 is the only year 240 with an R134a system, which is nice. I was going to do that plus a receiver/dryer for them anyway, but they decided to sell it to make room for a Westfalia Vanagon Synchro they will be getting shortly. Any areas of concern to look for in particular on these? Also, is there a good way to make it less hilariously slow besides putting the the turbo poo poo on it or stuffing a 350 in it? I've heard the IPD cam is a good upgrade, but is it going to wreck the drivability?
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Aug 13, 2011 02:21
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If it has 14" wheels on it, go +1 or +2, and you will improve the handling/steering feel a great deal. Depending on how much you change the outer diameter by lower profile tires, etc, you might make it slightly nippier from a stop. These cars have decent torque so 0-40mph isn't too shabby (i.e. the majority of stoplight to stoplight driving in most cities), you're not going to win any races vs any even mildly quick modern cars, but you can definitely enjoy driving a 240. New poly bushings (or even OEM new rubber) will tighten everything up a big amount and are worth redoing. IPD anti-sway bars are probably The Improvement to get for making the car more fun to drive. HD Bilsteins or Koni adjustables are what you want for the dampers, if you do get into upgrading the suspension. You'd have to get significantly more hardcore than the IPD cam to ruin the drivability, basically. Assuming it's in solid shape (sounds like it's been well maintained), nothing is ever going to break sufficiently enough for you to warrant getting rid of the car, so I hope you enjoy driving it for the next 65 years.
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Aug 13, 2011 03:10
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Ha, I was just looking at a 93 240. This one: http://kitchener.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-cars-trucks-1993-Volvo-240-Sedan-5-speed-W0QQAdIdZ302349853 . Almost looks too good to be true though.
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Aug 13, 2011 03:36
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Yeah, I'm looking at putting on Bilstein HDs, IPD sways, maybe IPD springs too, poly bushings, 15" wheels eventually, and e-code headlights. Actually, e-codes are the #1 priority after working AC. The US spec headlights are garbage at their best, and these are pretty yellowed.
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Aug 13, 2011 04:03
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