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PaintVagrant posted:Dont buy VGC black, its shiny as hell and that makes it very difficult to highlight because of the damned sheen. I'm sorry what's VGC?
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Jul 27, 2011 20:28
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smokmnky posted:I'm sorry what's VGC? Vallejo Game Color.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:30
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Does anyone here have any experience with using colored (ie, not black or white) spray paint to basecoat plastics? Cause unless I am missing something it seems like a pretty easy way to prime/basecoat something like your average Crayola chapter of marines (Blood Angels/Ultras/Fists/Salamanders/etc).
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Jul 27, 2011 20:37
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GW used to sell spray paint in the various common Marine shades, so it is certainly something that you can do (this is also basically what people airbrushing their stuff are up to, after all). The only thing I would be wary about is trying to skip the primer with this. Many paints, even spray paints, are not really designed to adhere directly to clean surfaces, and may not sit as well without a primer coat. So if you decide to skip priming, definitely test it on something first. But if you are going to spray some primer and then spray a basecoat, knock yourself out.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:48
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Ashcans posted:GW used to sell spray paint in the various common Marine shades, so it is certainly something that you can do (this is also basically what people airbrushing their stuff are up to, after all). Well, with plastics I usually just prime with matte black spray paint anyway, which is why I thought I might skip a step. Metals and resin need more dedicated primer, though, I know.
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Jul 27, 2011 20:50
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I bought some series 7 brushes today and just realised that they are nickel plated - which I'm allergic to. Anything anyone can think of that I can cover it up with without risking ruining the brush - bearing in mind its going to be dipper in paint, water, and spirits. Also found a shop that sells Vallejo paints and grabbed a bunch. Super excited to use those soon. Spent half an hour stripping metal sisters with fairy power spray, spent an hour and a half cleaning the bath I did it in. With a toothbrush. Inhaling power spray. Fuuuuuunnnn evening.
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Jul 27, 2011 21:51
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I recently did some Tomb Kings skeletons by starting with a spray-on prime of Army Painter's bone color. It worked out pretty well, but, the paint is a bit thicker than your typical primer, so be careful; do really thin coats. here's how they came out, bearing in mind that the bases aren't really finished, and, I was an intermediate painter back in, oh, 1991 or so, but then went almost 20 years without painting and so I'm pretty rusty. Oh, and these are obviously just meant to be battlefield-quality, not display-quality. But yeah, I'm reasonably happy with the army painter spray.
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Jul 27, 2011 21:51
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Lethemonster posted:I bought some series 7 brushes today and just realised that they are nickel plated - which I'm allergic to. Anything anyone can think of that I can cover it up with without risking ruining the brush - bearing in mind its going to be dipper in paint, water, and spirits. It's just the ferrule that is nickel plated, right? If so, wrap the ferrule in electrical tape (or grip tape or whatever), leaving just a tiny bit exposed so you dont accidentally tape the bristles. Electrical tape is mostly waterproof, but the worst case is you have to retape it every now and again. And you shoudln't be getting paint in the ferrule anyway so that is just another way to foster good painting habits. 
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Jul 27, 2011 22:06
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I've finally decided to sit down an paint all the Orks I've been buying. I haven't played a game since 2E, hopefully soon I'll finish enough to play a game some day. Pictures ahoy: First up, 'Ard Boys in a Trukk  Big Mek with KFF  Nob  Boys  More Boys  Boys again  Trukk  Next is a WIP, more Boys in a Trukk  Warboss  Nob  Boys  (I'm pretty much going to have to model something on the base of the Ork on the left, that way I can claim that pose isn't an accident) In-Progress Trukk  Yes, I know I need to drill my barrels, and yes, my basing is terribly boring and is detracting from the models. I plan on fixing both after I get more of the models painted, honest! Any other criticism or suggestions is more than welcome.
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Jul 27, 2011 22:11
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edit /\/\/\ 2nd edition style all up in this bitch,  Go nuts with the tape so you have a much thicker surface to grasp (  ).You'll get less hand cramping that way.
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Jul 27, 2011 22:12
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Fyrbrand posted:edit /\/\/\ 2nd edition style all up in this bitch, Orks were way cooler when they were brightly colored and goofy. It's a fact.
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Jul 27, 2011 22:17
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Basil Fawlty posted:Orks were way cooler when they were brightly colored and goofy. It's a fact. I can't argue with this statement. Mine are doused with grimdark-in-a-bottle because I'm basically lazy, rather than any serious aesthetic reasons.
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Jul 27, 2011 22:22
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Leperflesh posted:here's how they came out Drill your War-Tubas!
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Jul 27, 2011 22:28
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Basil Fawlty posted:I've finally decided to sit down an paint all the Orks I've been buying. I haven't played a game since 2E, hopefully soon I'll finish enough to play a game some day. Pictures ahoy: These are the best orks.
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Jul 27, 2011 23:01
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TheCosmicMuffet posted:Drill your War-Tubas! I know. I don't have a bit small enough for the mouthpieces, and the open cone-shaped ends I'm pretty sure I'd wind up loving up if I tried to drill them in a way that looked right (e.g., thin-walled bell shape). I really wanted to drill them but I was just way too worried I'd destroy them trying. If I had a lot of time I might cut the bell-end off, so I could drill through and then carve at it with a dremel bit or something, but... yeah, wayyyy too much effort for skeleton chaff. I painted 36 of those guys in like 8 evenings of work. e. Basil I love your orks. Loooove them. I'm a huge fan of yellow and black hazard stripes, and orks should look a bit gormless and silly.
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Jul 27, 2011 23:42
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Hal Gill username posted:Ok so here's a question: For anyone who has ordered stuff from miniwargaming.com, do they usually include a package of Mike & Ike's in with your stuff? I won a contest from Miniwargaming a year or two back (chaos battleforce, woo) and it also had a package of Mike & Ike in it. I thought I was just a double winner, but apparently that's how they roll. 
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Jul 27, 2011 23:47
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Lethemonster posted:I bought some series 7 brushes today and just realised that they are nickel plated - which I'm allergic to. Anything anyone can think of that I can cover it up with without risking ruining the brush - bearing in mind its going to be dipper in paint, water, and spirits. Dominion's got the right idea, but I might recommend thin strips of Gorilla Tape (or Sumo Tape, both proper brands). It will last you pretty much forever.
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Jul 28, 2011 00:44
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PaintVagrant posted:Dont buy VGC black, its shiny as hell and that makes it very difficult to highlight because of the damned sheen. True. But thin it with VGC black ink and it'll end up matte the difference is striking.
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Jul 28, 2011 04:14
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So I got some savage boys that I'm painting up and I'm planning on making all of their stone weapons obsidian. Anyone ever mess around with it (or black glass, I imagine its all the same) and could point me to some good paint ideas? I have access to GW paints and Vallejo.
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Jul 28, 2011 04:34
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I'm trying to get a good theme base going for a Warmachine Army, but I can't find what I am looking for. I'm looking for 30, 40 and 50 mm base inserts that look like a tiled floor, or something that you would find in a church.
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Jul 28, 2011 04:59
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Dipping. I can't paint worth a gently caress. When I played 40k, I played Orks, and they responded wonderfully to a sloppy two-coat paint job and a dip in walnut wood stain before a matte varnish. I'd get compliments all the time before I'd explain that I'm a horrible cheater. Now that I play Khador in Warmachine, I'm wondering how well their models respond to it. It looks like Doom Reavers or Uhlans would respond really well, whereas Iron Fang Pikemen or jacks would just look sloppy on flat areas like their shoulders or shields. So what I'm asking is, has anyone dipped anything Privateer Press, especially Khador, and how did it turn out for you? Edit: I plan to genuinely give painting a shot, but if I get x5 the detail for a quarter the effort on a few models, I'll do it.
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Jul 28, 2011 05:24
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Kasonic posted:Dipping. Using the GW washes is roughly as easy as dipping and doesn't leave the models with that dripping wet look, so it may work better on some models that aren't really dip-friendly.
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Jul 28, 2011 05:51
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Combaticus posted:This man speaks the truth. This box is a work of art.
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Jul 28, 2011 07:59
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Combaticus posted:This looks really great! looking forward to receiving it. Feel bad now that I haven't made an ornamental box in return. Although they are packaged in a retro GW box, thou thats not really in the same league.
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Jul 28, 2011 08:17
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sansuki posted:I'm trying to get a good theme base going for a Warmachine Army, but I can't find what I am looking for. I'm looking for 30, 40 and 50 mm base inserts that look like a tiled floor, or something that you would find in a church. Get a circle cutter from a craft store's scrapbooking section and some square grid textured sheet styrene/plasticard and go to town.
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Jul 28, 2011 08:52
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Ordered my first mini in years last week, since I've almost finished a batch of the stuff I had lying around from like 2002 or something. Apparently 'mail-order exclusive' is GW code for 'horribly sculpted piece of poo poo we couldn't put in stores because no one would ever buy it'. Oh well, maybe I'll make most of my money back on ebay, where I've seen some less common minis go for above current GW retail for some reason. Still got the bug, though, and am now looking for a horse. 25-28mm scale, riderless, walking preferably, and the less heroic scale the better. Just a basic horse for a base I'm making (the aim is to have the unmounted character slot into it to make a 'mounted version', like he's leading it by the reins or something. gently caress painting up two separate guys). Any recommendations? Also how do you guys highlight black hair? I'm using codex grey and a wash at the moment, and it looks all right for helmeted guys, but characters are kind of eh.
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Jul 28, 2011 09:09
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^^^^^ People like to use Coal Black in the P3 line for highlighting black: it's essentially a really, really dark turquoise color. I'm also a fan of Necron Abyss by Games Workshop for that touch of blue, depending on the model. Dnzr posted:So I got some savage boys that I'm painting up and I'm planning on making all of their stone weapons obsidian. Anyone ever mess around with it (or black glass, I imagine its all the same) and could point me to some good paint ideas? Get a dark brown or dark green (Dark Flesh or Dark Angels Green), paint over stone, wash with Badab Black (3 times, 3rd time in recesses only) and do extreme edge highlights only, starting with straight Dark Flesh (or Dark Angels Green) then add a bit of skull white for the really sharp corners. The problem with doing obsidian isn't only the color, it's the texture, as volcanic glass has a very specific, very identifiable texture. Thankfully, it's easy to replicate by taking a hobby knife and carving thin, shallow chunks into the side of the weapon at irregular intervals and sizes.
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Jul 28, 2011 09:59
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Thanks guys. I figured tapping would be the way to go but kinda hoped there might be a more elegant solution. In other news for UK goons - Halfords white primer is the poo poo. So much nicer to use and paint on than citadel, at about half the price with regular sales. Comes off just as easily when stripped too. The main difference I noticed was that you can spray much lighter with it without disrupting the flow of paint. With citadel I couldn't get a spray that didnt waste alot when using a new can, without going into dribbly spitty paint territory. Much more control with halfords, much less paint wasted. A whiter colour and more uniform coverage. Comes in multiple colours too. I keep my paints in a draw with dividers in; my labrador has discovered she can pick a paint pot up and move it into the adjacent square. I've been watching her do this delicately for hours, moving paint pots from one side to the other and it's getting in the way of my painting. Occasionally she'll run off with a paint pot to try and eat it because she likes the taste of acrylic, and when I run to get that she sprints back to steal a half painted model to lick 
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Jul 28, 2011 11:10
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Matgash posted:This looks really great! looking forward to receiving it. Feel bad now that I haven't made an ornamental box in return. Although they are packaged in a retro GW box, thou thats not really in the same league. Glad you like it =) Lethemonster posted:Thanks guys. I figured tapping would be the way to go but kinda hoped there might be a more elegant solution. Avatar/post combo and all that … So does she arrange them according to taste? it can't be according to colour since I seem to remember something about dogs being colourblind.
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Jul 28, 2011 11:27
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Lethemonster posted:I bought some series 7 brushes today and just realised that they are nickel plated - which I'm allergic to. Anything anyone can think of that I can cover it up with without risking ruining the brush - bearing in mind its going to be dipper in paint, water, and spirits. You could try a liquid masking product. Essentially it is a 'masking tape' you paint on. Fake edit, I had a quick google for it: http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=MD&Product_Code=MI-7&Product_Count=&Category_Code= Real edit: I just noticed the "cleans up with water" part. Wear latex gloves or go to a stationary store and find some of these http://www.google.ca/search?q=pen+g...iw=1419&bih=694 Though it may be difficlt to find ones with a narrow enough diameter hole... Indolent Bastard fucked around with this message at 13:33 on Jul 28, 2011 |
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Jul 28, 2011 13:27
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Combaticus posted:This man speaks the truth. Send me some stuff
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Jul 28, 2011 13:44
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Lethemonster posted:Thanks guys. I figured tapping would be the way to go but kinda hoped there might be a more elegant solution. Your dog is feeling neglected because you spend too much time on miniatures. Take a half-hour break and play with her, ok? Alternatively, break out the plasticard and armor her up as a counts-as Squiggoth.
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Jul 28, 2011 14:31
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Ashcans posted:Your dog is feeling neglected because you spend too much time on miniatures. Take a half-hour break and play with her, ok? Alternatively, break out the plasticard and armor her up as a counts-as Squiggoth. YES
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Jul 28, 2011 15:22
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sassassin posted:
http://www.ebobminiatures.com/products/animals.htm 28mm Non-heroic scale horses (and camels).
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Jul 28, 2011 18:11
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Big Willy Style posted:Send me some stuff Well if you've got any interesting ork or Blood Bowl bitz or some infinity stuff you want to trade for some space marine stuff, you too can get a box with doodles on it.
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Jul 28, 2011 19:33
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ATTN PV: I know I asked before but I'm about to start painting my Troll Blitzer just like this, do you remember how you did it? Looking up painting red skin isn't helping me anywhere.
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Jul 28, 2011 22:43
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Bought GW Purity Seal (don't blame me it wasn't my money and there wasn't anything else locally available) and I now have a frost giant.  How to avoid/get rid of frosting? I know that painting it over with varnish helps, would another layer of GWPS help as well? I don't want to make it worse  And what exactly causes it? Distance from can, temperature, moisture, spraying method?I've also heard that GWPS is excellent when combined with another varnish - i.e. spray clear to protect the minis (I think the person mentioned Vallejo varnish), and then apply GWPS to matte it. Did anyone here try something like that and does it work? I don't have any other spray on hand. BTW, Vallejo matt varnish (bottle) doesn't work, GWPS frosts over it. PS. To whoever told me here about wet palettes, love you man! 
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Jul 28, 2011 22:50
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White primer, build up layers of thinned red. Wash w ogryn flesh/sepia/etc. Work in some shades of red mixed w brown. Build layers of red mixed w orange and white, streaky style highlights(like bachtere). Glaze w red ink if the layers are too contrasty or orangey.
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Jul 28, 2011 22:52
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To those who suffered or are suffering from painting burnout: How did you overcome it if you did? I'm not churning poo poo out like I used to and have only completed a couple models in the past few months. Should I just oath a bunch of stuff again? I feel like the oath thread may be part of the cause of my burnout. I've tried painting figs from other systems (infinity) and though the models are cool, I don't think it's helping with my motivation. I've been painting a 5 man IG Company Command Squad this month, and though I feel that euphoria again somewhat, I feel painting too much more, a squad of 10 or 20 guys for example, might send me too far down the hole. This happened once long ago with my old Star Trek modeling hobby. I don't want it to happen to my tiny space men one.
NecronSchmecron fucked around with this message at 23:05 on Jul 28, 2011 |
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Jul 28, 2011 23:02
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PaintVagrant posted:White primer, build up layers of thinned red. Wash w ogryn flesh/sepia/etc. Work in some shades of red mixed w brown. Build layers of red mixed w orange and white, streaky style highlights(like bachtere). Glaze w red ink if the layers are too contrasty or orangey. Right. I primed it white and airbrushed it a solid coat of Blood Red. I'll try washing it with those and see how it looks. Thanks.
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Jul 28, 2011 23:07
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