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daslog posted:I've been tossing around the idea of picking up an Impreazza and doing a 22B body kit. Anyone here ever tried this? What am I looking at for a budget for the Body kit, wheels and tires? http://aerosim-research.com/shop/catalog/browse?sessid=NKgf3Ltf1z8b1wNxEDeqae13mKxXcrLo7CqwZ19JB3FCwL3l4s92awZ6blAt1Yrr&shop_param=
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Jul 28, 2011 23:25
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Yakattak posted:I know Subarus last forever mileage wise, but I'm looking to get this RS with 170k on it. Price is way too high. No mention of headgaskets. Check rear wheel wells for rust. I wouldn't spend more than 4k for an RS. 3k if the HG's haven't been done. Then again, when I sell my cherokee and look for a second RS, I won't be under a time constraint so I can afford to be picky. You can get an 02 WRX for that price. But a 10 year old WRX is whole other post.
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Jul 28, 2011 23:47
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$5500 would be the high end of acceptable price here but our market is insane. That is a lot of miles. As previously mentioned, make sure the headgaskets have been done and there's no rust. Additionally, for six grand I'd expect someone to have detailed the interior and source OEM-sized wheels and tires. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:56 on Jul 29, 2011 |
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Jul 29, 2011 00:52
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Lowclock posted:A different car. nm posted:Get it to a body shop. I assume a body shop could look at both of these? Do I just call a random place up and for a fee they'll check out the front end? Doesn't sound too bad. I wasn't as worried because after the accident the original owner kept it for 2 more years, and the next person bought it and kept it for 4 years, but I should probably still get it looked at. Can I do the same thing for a mechanic? Just bring it in and have them look at it?
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Jul 29, 2011 12:54
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What do we have here??  VF30 is installed on my '02 wagon. I've only done a basic tune but holy poo poo is this nice. Driveability is the same, boost only comes on ~200rpm later, and pulls RIGHT into redline. Only running 16psi but going to spend a solid day this weekend getting it tuned right. Just sucks that I can't find a target boost map for a VF30 anywhere 
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Jul 29, 2011 14:56
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I'll ask about the head gaskets and look at the wheel wells, but how can I make sure the seller isn't lying to me about them?
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Jul 29, 2011 16:05
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Yakattak posted:I'll ask about the head gaskets and look at the wheel wells, but how can I make sure the seller isn't lying to me about them? You don't ask directly. "Tell me about what maintenance has been done to this car." If they don't list it... it wasn't done. If you ask "Have the headgaskets been changed?" they will always say yes. Unless they have receipts I'd never believe it.
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Jul 29, 2011 16:09
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Blaise posted:You don't ask directly. "Tell me about what maintenance has been done to this car." Very good idea, if they haven't been done, I imagine it would just be easier to walk away? I know that head gasket replacement is a tough job.
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Jul 29, 2011 16:49
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Yakattak posted:Very good idea, if they haven't been done, I imagine it would just be easier to walk away? I know that head gasket replacement is a tough job. I posted a lot of pictures when I did my head gaskets a few pages back in this thread. It's about 12 hours and 300 dollars in parts.
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Jul 29, 2011 17:00
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daslog posted:I posted a lot of pictures when I did my head gaskets a few pages back in this thread. It's about 12 hours and 300 dollars in parts. So I'd be paying for the labor, I'm mechanically inclined but not nearly enough to do it myself. I have friends that can do it but I don't want to give them such a laborious task.
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Jul 29, 2011 17:02
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Blaise posted:What do we have here?? Accessport or Openport? Also, what injectors do you have? I'm on the stock turbo and my injectors are maxed out.
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Jul 29, 2011 19:02
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Wrar posted:Fapfapfapfapfap Open source tuning. 650cc Deatschwerks. It seriously runs SO ridiculously well, I'm so happy with it for $650 (injectors/pump/turbo/TMIC). Can't wait to tune it more. Also, it's on stock intake/exhaust. Silent beast 
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Jul 29, 2011 21:38
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Yakattak posted:Very good idea, if they haven't been done, I imagine it would just be easier to walk away? I know that head gasket replacement is a tough job. Only buy it if you can negotiate the price way down (what you'd pay-HG replacement cost)
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Jul 29, 2011 21:40
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nm posted:Only buy it if you can negotiate the price way down (what you'd pay-HG replacement cost) What would be a good estimate for that?
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Jul 30, 2011 02:49
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Yakattak posted:What would be a good estimate for that? Call a shop and ask?
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Jul 30, 2011 07:10
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These are all great suggestions, I appreciate it guys. I've looked up online ways to identify the issue has already occurred and somewhere it said it typically happens around 100k so hopefully it was already fixed. But thanks for the warnings.
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Jul 30, 2011 13:36
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Yakattak posted:These are all great suggestions, I appreciate it guys. I've looked up online ways to identify the issue has already occurred and somewhere it said it typically happens around 100k so hopefully it was already fixed. But thanks for the warnings. You can "luck out" and have it not fail for quite a while. Just means there's more time on that bomb.
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Jul 31, 2011 00:10
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Just impulse bought a 24mm white line front sway bar, whiteline outer tie rod/ball joint kit (my car needed ball joints now and prob tie rods in not too long), and Whiteline ALK for $480 tax included ($450 for all before tax). I figure it was a pretty drat good deal so might as well jump on it. Also bought an eBay short shifter cause for $20, worth trying out as well as a shifter bushing from summit and a 24mm rear sway bar to match. Should be fun soon!
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Jul 31, 2011 07:19
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I picked up an 08 LGT a few weeks ago and noticed that when accelerating hard from anywhere below 3000 rpm that I get a quick stutter around 3500 and again at 4000 rpm. It feels like the car is pulling timing or cutting fuel as boost comes on. Checking around the interwebs, iwsti and nasioc seem to be a clusterfuck of answers be it boost leak or fuel starvation. The LGT forum just seems to say get a reflash at the dealer and it will fix it. It seems to be pretty common with this generation of turbo Subarus, but I can avoid the stutter by easing into 3000+ rpm before the hard acceleration. The car just seems to go 'oh poo poo, boost' and forgets what it's supposed to be doing. What I really want to know is this, what is actually going on? The car is bone stock and still has a powertrain warranty so I'm not terribly worried at the moment. Would like to be able to resolve this as quickly and cheaply as possible to avoid future bobble-head scenarios.
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Jul 31, 2011 08:42
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Changed my #3 coil (it had a large ring of oxidation around the ground, as well as some discoloration on the external coil - not a good sign), and it seems to have dealt with misfire issues I've had in the past, but unfortunately not the mysterious hesitation that seems to plague many modified subarus (2500-3000 rpm). Trying a WOT run, I now get overboost (missing my target with a 1-2 second spike of ~+4 psi on a stock 08+ STi turbo, then leveling out to about 2 psi over - I don't think the VF48 likes to make 24.8 psi). I've been learning to get quick at taking bits off when I have garage access on the weekends at my girlfriend's house. What should I look for now? I've taken off the intercooler to look for any problems around it that I couldn't see (and because the compressor outlet was slipping a bit, which had me worried). I'm waiting for exhaust gaskets to come in so I can repair my exhaust leaks - hoping that will fix the problem. Probably going to go back mostly to stock (probably keeping the downpipe), since not being able to participate in any autocross events due to constant issues is kinda killing my enjoyment of the vehicle. If anyone's interested in swapping their VF48 for my VF48+external wastegate kit, let me know - perhaps your vehicle will not be cursed as mine was.
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Jul 31, 2011 17:59
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Terminus Est posted:I picked up an 08 LGT a few weeks ago and noticed that when accelerating hard from anywhere below 3000 rpm that I get a quick stutter around 3500 and again at 4000 rpm. It feels like the car is pulling timing or cutting fuel as boost comes on. Checking around the interwebs, iwsti and nasioc seem to be a clusterfuck of answers be it boost leak or fuel starvation. The LGT forum just seems to say get a reflash at the dealer and it will fix it. I was able to tune some of this stutter out on my '05 OBXT by adjusting the wastegate duty cycle.
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Aug 1, 2011 02:00
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Terminus Est posted:It seems to be pretty common with this generation of turbo Subarus, but I can avoid the stutter by easing into 3000+ rpm before the hard acceleration. The car just seems to go 'oh poo poo, boost' and forgets what it's supposed to be doing. What I really want to know is this, what is actually going on? The car is bone stock and still has a powertrain warranty so I'm not terribly worried at the moment. Would like to be able to resolve this as quickly and cheaply as possible to avoid future bobble-head scenarios. Why not grab a cable for your laptop and check to see what the ECU is doing via Learningview? It's awful nice to be able to see exactly what your ECU is doing...
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Aug 1, 2011 14:03
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I'm debating at the moment between getting a cheap vag-com cable for logging only or spend the 160 for a tactrix cable to enable tuning as well. Already have the logger installed from romraider with definitions. Hopefully I'll have something within the week.
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Aug 1, 2011 15:50
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Some years can tune with a VAG COM http://legacygt.com/forums/showthre...17&t=110768 02-03 WRXs can not, unfortunately for me. Ive been happy with my tactrix for the most part. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1921677
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Aug 1, 2011 16:03
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Terminus Est posted:I'm debating at the moment between getting a cheap vag-com cable for logging only or spend the 160 for a tactrix cable to enable tuning as well. Already have the logger installed from romraider with definitions. Hopefully I'll have something within the week. your car is can-bus, so you won't be able to vag-com
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Aug 1, 2011 16:31
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Lord Gaga posted:Just impulse bought a 24mm white line front sway bar, whiteline outer tie rod/ball joint kit (my car needed ball joints now and prob tie rods in not too long), and Whiteline ALK for $480 tax included ($450 for all before tax). I figure it was a pretty drat good deal so might as well jump on it. Watch that short shifter's weld. I've heard a few stories of them snapping. You'll most likely be fine.
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Aug 1, 2011 16:43
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ickna posted:your car is can-bus, so you won't be able to vag-com I was under the impression that logging was still able to be done via vag-com, just no flashing. Thus my inner debate of $20 versus $160 for a cable.
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Aug 1, 2011 17:03
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Terminus Est posted:I was under the impression that logging was still able to be done via vag-com, just no flashing. Thus my inner debate of $20 versus $160 for a cable. looks like you're right, according to: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2108996 I'd still lean more towards the tactrix just because you'd actually be able to do something about your problem after you log, instead of paying $20 to have a bunch of excel sheets and still basically be where you started.
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Aug 1, 2011 17:34
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c355n4 posted:Watch that short shifter's weld. I've heard a few stories of them snapping. You'll most likely be fine. Ill give it a good look, if it looks iffy Ill give it an extra weld bead. For $20 it wasn't even worth machining myself even if I had prints!
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Aug 1, 2011 17:35
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Lord Gaga posted:Ill give it a good look, if it looks iffy Ill give it an extra weld bead. For $20 it wasn't even worth machining myself even if I had prints! Yea, that is what most people did! :p
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Aug 1, 2011 17:42
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Terminus Est posted:I was under the impression that logging was still able to be done via vag-com, just no flashing. Thus my inner debate of $20 versus $160 for a cable. Edit: dont buy this How about this guy? Blaise fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Aug 1, 2011 |
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Aug 1, 2011 17:42
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Blaise posted:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BFM-...sQ5fAccessories Blaise be praised. That is exactly what I need. Thanks. Nevermind. Doesn't support can-bus apparently. Terminus Est fucked around with this message at 18:32 on Aug 1, 2011 |
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Aug 1, 2011 18:24
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Terminus Est posted:Nevermind. Doesn't support can-bus apparently. it looks like a rebadged and marked up ebay vag-com for gullible tunas
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Aug 1, 2011 19:16
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ickna posted:it looks like a rebadged and marked up ebay vag-com for gullible tunas Yeah I figured that out after I looked at it more. Sorry I'm lucky enough that my friend has a Tactrix I can borrow. Having fun  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v89/meblaise/ROMRAIDER.jpg
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Aug 1, 2011 19:27
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So girlfriend backed the car into the garage and did this – Pretty sure this isn't going to be buffed out, and looked for replacement parts. Subaruparts is horribly unhelpful, and I'm going to try and head to the dealer this week to see what I can do about this. Any links / advice on going about replacing this? Thanks.
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Aug 2, 2011 01:40
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Just Another XY posted:So girlfriend backed the car into the garage and did this – File an insurance claim and get a new Fender. Is there any reason you can't bring it to a body shop?
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Aug 2, 2011 01:47
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So it's come to this. I spent months working on this 97 Outback (on and off as weather permitted...no garage). It didn't pass safety inspection in December due to massive oil leakage from the timing cover. I replaced the cam seals, crank seal, oil pump o-ring, idlers, timing belt, and waterpump, and took it to be inspected today. It failed. There's coolant dripping from the timing cover, so I'm thinking I must've cocked up the waterpump gasket when I was putting that drat thing on. That, and since it was sitting so long (6 months) the rear brake rotors that were like 8 months old rusted to the point of being unrecoverable. I'm calling it quits on this car.  *sigh* Anyways, getting rid of this car puts me in the market for a new vehicle. My girlfriend likes CRVs and RAV4s, and other vehicles of that size. We're looking at Foresters since they tend to go for significantly less than the aforementioned Honda and Toyota equivalents around here (Philly 'burbs), but my major concern there is the head gaskets. Is there a certain year cut-off where this problem was eliminated completely? P.S. If anyone wants a 97 Subaru Outback for $400 and you're in the Philly area let me know. It actually starts and runs fine, and hasn't been overheated. New timing belt!
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Aug 2, 2011 02:21
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Have similar damage on our forester from some douche in a parking lot. Today my wife got two quotes today for 500 and 1000 we are looking for a third..
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Aug 2, 2011 02:22
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My 99 Legacy Outback poo poo the bed the other day. The harmonic balancer came out of harmony? Got it towed and the shop said the bolt that holds it onto the crank shaft fubard and the crank is stripped. Now, I have an aftermarket warranty on the car and it says that the crankshaft is covered. Adjuster came out and came to the conclusion that since it was the bolt that stripped the shaft, they won't cover it. Kind of at a loss as what to do. I don't have 3k laying around to pour into this car for a new engine. Should I go after the warranty company and if so how? Any advice ya'll could give me would be great!
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Aug 2, 2011 16:34
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Jared592 posted:
Why are you so far away?! If this was in orlando I'd be picking it up today.
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Aug 2, 2011 16:39
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