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Combaticus posted:Making a bit of progress on some Chaos Warriors for Blood Bowl, pretty happy about the big dude, the short dude is a bit too small compared to my beastmen, but I''m fairly happy with the way he looks. Those look great. Where are the bits from?
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Aug 2, 2011 14:19
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Got bored and thought I'd paint up a few of the Skaven from the boxset. Here's the first one blu-taced onto an old goblin base.
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Aug 2, 2011 14:51
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Yeah, but I wanted to avoid large amounts of red. Could give him a red helmet stripe. I figure white is for veterans so it mostly works. I thought "vets get white helmets" was just an ultramarines thing.
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Aug 2, 2011 15:48
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Dominion posted:I thought "vets get white helmets" was just an ultramarines thing. Squad and company markings are actually dictated by the Codex Astrates, which all Space Marine chapters are supposed to follow. Of course, only the Ultramarinse and their successors take it that seriously, and many chapters deviate on it a lot (especially for stuff like heraldry). It might seem like only the Ultramarines do this stuff because they are used as the showpiece for generic marines, and the other showcased chapters (Space Wolves, Blood Angels, Dark Angels, Black Templars) are much less strict about the Codex.
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Aug 2, 2011 16:02
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Ashcans posted:Squad and company markings are actually dictated by the Codex Astrates, which all Space Marine chapters are supposed to follow. Of course, only the Ultramarinse and their successors take it that seriously, and many chapters deviate on it a lot (especially for stuff like heraldry). Right, I knew the vets getting colored helmets was a Codex Astartes tradition, but I thought it was "different colored helmet" or "helmet of your chapter's secondary color", not specifically white.
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Aug 2, 2011 16:03
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I'm sure I read Fists do white as well. I was under that impression when I was doing mine, anyway.
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Aug 2, 2011 16:19
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So last night, after being out of the hobby for a while, getting back in, and spending a few days cleaning my painting area, priming, modeling, doing inventory, etc, I finally put brush to mini for the first time in a year. 
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Aug 2, 2011 18:33
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Acceptableloss posted:Those look great. Where are the bits from? Chaos Marauder legs, torsos and arms, chaos warrior helmets and gloves. And last but not least; a couple of shoulderpads from the ork nob set.
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Aug 2, 2011 18:39
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Holy poo poo I could have been using corkboard all this time to base stuff and I just used it today for the first time. GOD drat
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Aug 2, 2011 20:12
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crime fighting hog posted:Holy poo poo I could have been using corkboard all this time to base stuff and I just used it today for the first time. GOD drat Yeah cork is like God's gift to basing nerds.
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Aug 2, 2011 20:21
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crime fighting hog posted:Holy poo poo I could have been using corkboard all this time to base stuff and I just used it today for the first time. GOD drat You need rock? BAM CORKBOARD! You need ground for your swamps? BAM CORKBOARD! You need a textured but flat surface for your base? BAM CORKBOARD! Corkboard is my first angle of attack for any basing challenge.
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Aug 2, 2011 20:28
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Is there any difference between normal acrylic paints and the ones we use on miniatures? Any different ingredients etc? I keep going into Hobbycraft and staring at the giant tubs of acrylic paint then scuttling off with my tiny £2.30 pot of citadel paint. There's so many more colours as well... And oils - I saw the guy doing his wet blending tutorial with the white oil paint where it showed up fantastically. Does he only get away with this because he's putting it on such a small area or does it work ok in general?
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Aug 2, 2011 21:18
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Oils are fantastic if you've got a week to waste waiting for each layer to dry.
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Aug 2, 2011 21:21
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The other thing about oils is that the cleanup is a nice huge pain in the rear end, because you'll need white spirits or turpentine. Enjoy. As for acrylics, you don't have to use 'model' marketed paints, no. However, I have run into issues with using other kinds. If you buy 'craft' acrylics, they are often very thick - something like toothpaste or jam. This means that you need to thin them down a lot before they are suitable for miniature painting. Whenever I've tried this, I find that the pigment count is low enough in these paints that by the time the consistency is right, they are very translucent and get almost no coverage. You can, of course, buy higher quality artist's acrylics. These will thin and cover better, but they tend to be pretty pricey themselves. My issue here is that much like vallejo's artists line, the paints tend to be more fragile - if I am not careful I will wear off paint just handling the miniature while working on it. Maybe someone has had better luck; if so, I'd love a brand recommendation. I do use liquitex brand gesso and accessories, though, like mediums.
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Aug 2, 2011 21:28
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To add more detail to that, wet blending stage lasts much longer in oils, and if you're painting on a canvas, you typically apply your paint, give it a day or two to dry, and work the paint on the surface using palette knife and so forth. It's not particularly suited to miniatures, because there's little in the way of flat surfaces where you want to work an image, and where you'd have room to correct a mistake. In general, it's easier to correct a mistake with acrylic, because you can moisten your brush and dilute the paint off the area to which it's applied, and then dry. Oil will stick and you will have a tough time doing that. Oil also holds up better being layered (again, if you want to paint over something you don't like), which on a small miniature will obliterate detail.
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Aug 2, 2011 21:43
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I prefer the P3 model line simply because they have plenty of recipes in the No Quarter magazine and their faction books. If I need instructions on how to paint leather, undead flesh, metal or whatever I can look up what the studio artists do for inspiration and then tailor the mixture to what I want to achieve. I think it´s well worth the extra money per pot.
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Aug 2, 2011 21:50
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Told my friend I'd post her models here. This is like, her second, maybe third miniature ever.  
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Aug 2, 2011 22:26
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Gorefiend posted:Told my friend I'd post her models here. This is like, her second, maybe third miniature ever. Tell her this owns, though the use of a green(?) wash on the gold is throwing me off.
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Aug 2, 2011 22:33
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Ashcans posted:
Liquitex Matte Medium is like liquid heaven.
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Aug 2, 2011 22:38
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Gorefiend posted:Told my friend I'd post her models here. This is like, her second, maybe third miniature ever. For an early miniature that is really drat good.
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Aug 2, 2011 22:39
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Totally, I think my favorite part is that the terminator is so dedicated to Khorne, he's ready to chop himself in the face.
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Aug 2, 2011 22:47
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sassassin posted:I'm sure I read Fists do white as well. The old Codex: Ultramarines describes IF first company as having a red stripe on their yellow helmets to denote their veteran status, as well as red skull badges for sergeants. Though this was in 1995 and GW have done white since then, but there's usually some red present.
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Aug 2, 2011 22:58
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I utterly hosed up an Infinity Order Sargent yesterday and I didn't even want to look at my paints. This thread has inspired me to get back on the bike and try again. Thanks! We need an Infinity oath thread. I'ma go post about it in their thread.
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Aug 2, 2011 23:23
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I've been considering getting a second army, and I want that army to be Tyranids. One of my friends has a few spare tyranids laying around, so I took one to paint for some ideas. I rather like how it turned out. Though I dread painting 50 of these guys. 
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Aug 3, 2011 01:41
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Lethemonster posted:And oils - I saw the guy doing his wet blending tutorial with the white oil paint where it showed up fantastically. Does he only get away with this because he's putting it on such a small area or does it work ok in general? In general, oil paints aren't great for minis for the reasons that people mentioned already (hard to correct mistakes, extremely long open times, so on), but they are excellent on broad flat surfaces that need smooth and frequent blends, such as weapon blades and perhaps large, unadorned armor sections. Having said that, working with oil paints is different than working with acrylics, enough so that you will find your standard techniques failing you. But, if you wish to work with them, here's a few basics that I've picked up (mostly from this thread, actually): 1) Synthetic Brushes: you may love your sable brushes (I know I love my s7's), and you use them for literally everything, but if you want to use oil paints, invest in some synthetic brushes (nylon bristles). Thankfully, these are far, far cheaper than a typical brush, and they come in all the sizes that normal brushes do. 2) Palettes: you likely already have a palette for your paint, which is awesome, but palettes for oils benefit from having broad, flat areas in which to mix paint. Consider the stereotypical artist's palette, which is nothing but a piece of board with a handle. Again, this can be as cheap as a disposable plastic plate, but it does help to have something flat to work with and practice your blends on. 3) Modification and Clean-Up: your traditional oil paints are (unsurprisingly) oil-based, and require various chemicals to thin and clean up the paint with, none of which are particularly fun to use; they often have offensive odors, are toxic, and damage surfaces should you spill it, not to mention some of them are skin and eye irritants. However, with the magic of science, there are water-based oil paints that can be cleaned and thinned with plain old water. They have the advantages of ease-of-modification and cleaning that acrylics have, and have the advantages of open time and blending that oils do. They still behave like oil paints however, and are thus ill-suited to most miniature work. They are also abnormally expensive, but a little bit will go a long way thanks to the several days it takes for the paint to dry fully. If you want to try using oil paints for sick blends, I suggest using the water-based ones first since the equipment you need for it is relatively low (paints and brushes, essentially). There are other options, and this thread's by-and-large favorite blending option that isn't a standard brush is, of course,  The Airbrush!Airbrushes are described in good length throughout this thread, but here's a quick recap of some of what they can do and some equipment you'd need for it. 1) Airbrushes can made sick, butter-smooth blends with relatively little effort or practice. 2) Airbrushes can make basecoating entire armies a breeze, and with the right equipment can be used for shading and highlighting as well. 3) Airbrushes make painting tanks and other large surfaces easy and allow you to finish in a fraction of the time. 4) Airbrushes make you look cool, a scientifically proven fact  However, airbrushes do require a fair investment to get started with them; items include cleaning tools, the airbrush itself (dual-action, gravity-fed preferred), thinner for you paints (ordinary blue Windex works wonderfully), a compressor WITH moisture trap, a pressure-tank with pressure regulator, a paint-grade respirator, and possibly more depending on how fancy you want to get.  However, don't get discouraged: this thread is here to help, and no question is stupid if you are genuinely seeking advice.
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Aug 3, 2011 02:24
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What's a good respirator? I've been so busy I haven't gotten to use my airbrush yet 
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Aug 3, 2011 03:38
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Really, a respirator is one of those things that you can't half-rear end on. 3M makes a good one (it's the one I picked up) for about 35 bucks or some-such: you can find it at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards (if you have those where you live) or any other contractor-friendly home-improvement store. 3M makes a few, so make sure you get the one marked for use with painting. Also, if you go with it, don't be worried by all the "WARNING: DEATH MAY RESULT OF IMPROPER USE" warnings: they mean if you clog up the filter cartridges and suffocate yourself or if you're soaking the filters in inhalants or some other retarded druggie bullshit. There are other, more expensive respirators out there, and if you feel more comfortable with the full-face kind (the ones that look like gas-masks), go for it. May seem excessive, but when you don't grow old with respiratory difficulties, you'll be glad you made the effort.
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Aug 3, 2011 08:05
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I actually wear my boyfriends gas mask respirator he got from the army. When it comes to priming and spraying there is really no length you shouldn't go to to protect your lungs! Thank you for the awesome advice guys. I was trying to find ingredient lists so I could compare everything properly (whoo a use for my chemistry degree!) but they don't seem to be available anywhere. I'm going to be doing a set of paint stripper tests soon on a metal and plastic model each, thus far I have; Fairy power spray, dettol, simple green, oven cleaner, acetone, castrol super clean. Any other readily available paint melty things I've missed there? Edit: Yeah I'm slowly dragging the safety sheets out of things but god looking at them all day in a lab means coming home to look at some more makes me want to cry. I just want a pretty list 
Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Aug 3, 2011 |
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Aug 3, 2011 09:42
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spacegoat posted:The old Codex: Ultramarines describes IF first company as having a red stripe on their yellow helmets to denote their veteran status, as well as red skull badges for sergeants. Though this was in 1995 and GW have done white since then, but there's usually some red present. I've never liked the red & yellow Fists look anyway tbh. Yellow, white and black trim look so much better imo.
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Aug 3, 2011 10:04
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Lethemonster posted:Fairy power spray, dettol, simple green, oven cleaner, acetone, castrol super clean. L.A.'s Totally Awesome (found at Dollar Tree and select other places) is a drat good cleaner. Safe for plastic as well. If you want a breakdown on paints though, your best bet is to ask the respective companies for their MSDS. Most companies will already have these on their website, but other times you'll need to ask (and usually over the phone to get results).
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Aug 3, 2011 10:57
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No love for the Clanrat, have a Broodlord then. Pretty much since space hulk came out I've had this guy in various states of paintedness, I've just redone the head and am going to have to go over some of the highlights to tone them down a bit (Camera is great to expose bad highlighting). Other than that I just need to go over and highlight all the skulls and wash the metals..  I went for more of an orange/apricot flesh to tie with the highlights on the blood angels helmets rather than the standard pink colour, that and I never get to paint orange,
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Aug 3, 2011 12:45
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Dope as hell - the clanra and the genestealer. Loving the green tongue. And the Chaos Termie - the smaller picture is the best one. The work she's done on the coat is pretty great. I am real jealous that I still struggle to get highlights like that
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Aug 3, 2011 15:41
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richyp posted:No love for the Clanrat, have a Broodlord then. It's not that we don't love them, is that we are silently brooding in our jealous rage at how good you are, made all the more fury-inducing when compounded with your speed. Please,  
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Aug 3, 2011 17:20
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So guys I think I need some help. I've started in on my Khador Battlebox set and frankly I suck at this. I've read a ton of the guides around the web, I bought a few different brushes and the Khador paint set from P3. This is what I have so far but I just feel like this stuff looks so lovely. Help me painting thread:
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Aug 3, 2011 17:57
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smokmnky posted:So guys I think I need some help. I've started in on my Khador Battlebox set and frankly I suck at this. I've read a ton of the guides around the web, I bought a few different brushes and the Khador paint set from P3. This is what I have so far but I just feel like this stuff looks so lovely. Help me painting thread: Stick with it, basecoating is the worse part. When painting anything while doing the basecoating stage I often think of giving up because it doesn't look right/looks rough, then come the magic washes that make everything start to look good. With white primer as you are using its even more offputting at this stage as the white shows through everywhere if not perfectly covered, again washes will help with that stage. What I would do is, finish covering the model in any of the base colours you plan on using then drybrush the metal areas with boltgun/oily steel/whatever P3 version is. After all the base colours are on, hit the red with a wash of brown, the metals with a wash of black, let it dry and marvel at how cool it starts to look, then work on the edge highlighting with the lighter reds etc...
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Aug 3, 2011 18:07
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smokmnky posted:So guys I think I need some help. I've started in on my Khador Battlebox set and frankly I suck at this. I've read a ton of the guides around the web, I bought a few different brushes and the Khador paint set from P3. This is what I have so far but I just feel like this stuff looks so lovely. Help me painting thread: That's what I'd tell me at your stage. These don't look lovely, just unpainted. You'll be amazed how much a little washing/edge highlighting will do for these. They'll look A LOT better. efb~
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Aug 3, 2011 18:11
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smokmnky posted:So guys I think I need some help. I've started in on my Khador Battlebox set and frankly I suck at this. I've read a ton of the guides around the web, I bought a few different brushes and the Khador paint set from P3. This is what I have so far but I just feel like this stuff looks so lovely. Help me painting thread: Have you got any bigger pictures? I would suggest getting a silvery metallic paint. A P3 or GW one such as Boltgun metal would do, also a black wash such as Dabab Black. So your metal bits, give it a good covering from your metallic paint and then go over that with your wash. Depending on how far you want to go with it that should be enough, although getting a lighter metal and painting it on the very edges will really help. Use the flat of your brush for this and you cant go far wrong. For your red, mix in a bit of dark brown or black into your red and water it down quite a bit, you can then carefully paint that into the recesses of the armour. If you splodge a bit you can just paint over it with your original red colour. If you have a lighter red you can go around the plating with a 1-2mm line and then on the edges use an orange. As always, thin your paints!!!
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Aug 3, 2011 18:13
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Limp Wristed Limey posted:Have you got any bigger pictures? Here's a bigger pic (I just took these last night with my cell phone): 
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Aug 3, 2011 18:22
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Is using a separate brush for washes necessary?
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Aug 3, 2011 18:28
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smokmnky posted:Here's a bigger pic (I just took these last night with my cell phone): How are you doing your basecoat? Do you use a spray or do it by brush? Having said that you must use a spray because basing with white with a brush would drive you insane. Although there are purists out there who base with white I tend to go for a black base almost everytime, especially when I was starting out. Black is a lot more forgiving than white especially when you want to paint metals.
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Aug 3, 2011 18:32
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