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Jared592 posted:If anyone wants a 97 Subaru Outback for $400 and you're in the Philly area let me know. It actually starts and runs fine, and hasn't been overheated. New timing belt! How do I reach you? I'm local!  (PM sent)
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Aug 2, 2011 20:16
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Hey subaru friends. I am one of the lucky that had a rod bearing go. Mine I was driving normally, have always kept up on oil changes etc, but this one time I went on a road trip and just didnt check the oil. Turns out it was down about a liter and that combined with hot temps and 5w30 spun me a bearing. I know that its basically new engine time or bust so my question really is two fold. 1. Anyone know of a decent site I can get a used engine or am I best to search locally (wreckers, etc). 2. How many hours is the labour so I can start finding a reputable shop for the swap. (There's literally no way I can do it myself or with a friend) Thanks and oh btw I wish I was dead. This is basically the first time I didn't check my oil before driving more than 100kms.
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Aug 3, 2011 16:49
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I have a 2004 WRX fwiw.
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Aug 3, 2011 17:10
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Youre best to look locally. Do an STi Swap. EDIT: It is worth your time to check out all the parting out posts of the various subaru classifieds online. There probably one near you if youre in a major city.
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Aug 3, 2011 20:00
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Lord Gaga posted:Youre best to look locally. Do an STi Swap. Doubling this. Especially if you can find a wrecked STI. Why do just an engine swap, when you can do everything else at the same time! yEEEAHHAAA!!
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Aug 4, 2011 09:18
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Really? Guy needs a longblock and you suggest he swap everything???logistik posted:(There's literally no way I can do it myself or with a friend) I think having to swap diffs/axles/all kinds of wiring/etc will make this a bit more expensive on the labor side... not to mention the price of the swap ($5K+)
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Aug 4, 2011 14:07
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Blaise posted:Really? Guy needs a longblock and you suggest he swap everything Automotive Practicality
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Aug 4, 2011 14:10
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Sounds like he only needs a new shortblock actually, I'd get a new one put in, make sure it runs, sell it and get a used 09.
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Aug 4, 2011 15:28
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You can buy an H brace subframe connector and both strut tower bars for $125 on eBay. Worth it? EDIT: I still cant believe both strut tower bars can be had for less than $60 shipped. I thought about making one because I am a machinist and figured I had all the stuff and could do it cheap, but for less than $30 jeeze its not even worth my time. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 19:27 on Aug 4, 2011 |
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Aug 4, 2011 19:00
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From an autocross perspective we haven't found a huge difference being made on the front strut bar. The rear strut bar (in a wagon, or with a ski passthrough in a sedan) does make a difference but then you might as well just buy an oswald x-brace. The H-shaped subframe brace will punt you out of most competitive classes so nobody I know who's serious about competition has tried one.
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Aug 4, 2011 20:15
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'03 WRX is throwing a CEL code that seems to indicate cylinder 1 is misfiring. I've checked it for spark and compression, and it idles really smooth and powers fine up through redline, injector is clean...this has to be an incorrect code, right? Basically it comes on and off intermittently, and the performance of the car does not seem to change whether it's on or off. Secondly, I'm starting to hear the faintest of little squeaks that seems to coincide with the turbo spooling up...car has 143k on it, are these the beginning death throes of the turbo, or do I just have a leak somewhere?
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Aug 4, 2011 23:48
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Seat Safety Switch posted:From an autocross perspective we haven't found a huge difference being made on the front strut bar. The rear strut bar (in a wagon, or with a ski passthrough in a sedan) does make a difference but then you might as well just buy an oswald x-brace. This is in an 02 sedan and this is a daily driver that I want to start auto crossing just for fun sometimes.
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Aug 4, 2011 23:51
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^^ I wouldn't bother with front or rear in that case. Maybe look at refreshing your struts, get stickier tires and get an alignment. Hey, how can you tell I have a mental illness?  Because I loving love Subarus.
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Aug 5, 2011 04:15
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RaoulDuke12 posted:'03 WRX is throwing a CEL code that seems to indicate cylinder 1 is misfiring. When were the spark plug wires last changed?
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Aug 5, 2011 04:18
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I already have a bunch of suspension/steering mods going on next week or the week after though my struts are stock. ALK, Front and rear sways, whiteline ball joints/tie rods, etc. The braces were so cheap I figured hey if there's any benefit it'd be worth it. What do people normally set their alignment settings to for daily driving and auto crossing? What is factory for the 02 WRX?
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Aug 5, 2011 04:20
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My alignment specifications on my WRX were "zero toe, all the caster and camber you can find." It's probably not the best, but the WRX only has a very limited amount of adjustment.
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Aug 5, 2011 04:23
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daslog posted:When were the spark plug wires last changed? Never. They don't look too beat up though and they're all sparking without arcing. I suppose that could be it though. You mean the whole coil pack I assume, right?
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Aug 5, 2011 04:24
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Seat Safety Switch posted:My alignment specifications on my WRX were "zero toe, all the caster and camber you can find." It's probably not the best, but the WRX only has a very limited amount of adjustment. yeah that. I have an ALK, the offset whiteline tops, and then went and took a grinder to slot my struts. -2.5 degrees of camber, hopefully close to +5° caster but it hasn't been measured. If only I had some high caster sti control arms.
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Aug 5, 2011 04:28
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This site says -1.5 degrees camber is factory so Ill assume that or more is what I want or more. http://www.oakos.com/wrx/specs.htm EDIT: Mis read, it says 1.5 degrees is the camber for the rear. 0.42 degrees is for the front. Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 5, 2011 04:40
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in the front it's between 0 and 1. 1.5 is where things start to get good. 2.5 might be a little excessive for the street but it depends on the suspension parts, tires, and driving style. if all you do is commute to work don't bother but if you go on fun drives, auto-x, track days etc, the right alignment will completely change how the car handles.
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Aug 5, 2011 04:42
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If by fun drives you mean, 25mph exit ramp suggestion means 75 is just fine then yes. Id like to start autocrossing, we'll see how that pans out. There are local events fairly regularly. How much faster will that much 1 degree extra camber wear out tires? I am currently getting less than 30k out of my sumitomos.
Lord Gaga fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 5, 2011 04:44
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I could be wrong, but I believe that toe affects tire wear much more than camber will. I haven't noticed an accelerated tire wear but for autocross you should be mindful of filling the tires up as much as possible (minus 5-10% to account for heating). Also make sure to rotate your tires front to back on a front-heavy, powerful car like a modern Subaru; I rotate every second event because otherwise my front tires will be demolished prematurely. I started autocrossing last summer; it's extremely intimidating the first time, especially if you run into some of the more serious competitors. The important thing is to stick with it and get ride-alongs from someone experienced who can be a sober second thought on what you're missing or doing wrong out of habit. Doing a proper alignment made my car a lot more fun on the street. You'll definitely notice it there. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 5, 2011 04:53
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Yeah, toe is the killer of tires. I've had my hankook v12s for close to a year and over 10k miles with this alignment. There's a slight bit more of wear generated on the inside front but it's not very much.
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Aug 5, 2011 05:11
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So just to be clear, after I get my balljoints/tie rods on and go to get it aligned, ask for factory in the back and no less than -1.5* in the front and 0 toe all around?
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Aug 5, 2011 05:25
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I've never been able to get more than -1.3 out of my '02 with stock suspension.
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Aug 5, 2011 05:34
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My boyfriend recently became the proud owner of a 1978 Subaru BRAT - we've fantasized about owning one ever since he bought his Impreza several years ago and it's pretty much our first "project car." It was purchased from the original owner and magically made it home the two hour drive on the freeway. We replaced the battery and starter and it's currently at our mechanic's home to get a once-over and some basic things fixed (horn, door latch, etc). I can't wait to get it back and tool around town in it and con friends into letting us put their kids in the Oh poo poo seats.  I couldn't go through X amount of pages in this thread but if anyone has any suggestions for places to find miscellaneous parts I'd appreciate it. And if you see me posting with spelling issues it's probably my boyfriend lurking with my account. 
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Aug 5, 2011 05:49
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^^^ That's awesome, sounds like a fun project car, no idea where to go for parts though sorry. Speaking of alignment, would you guys recommend top hats on a '11 STI? I've heard bad things about camber bolts failing under intense conditions. I'm also a little worried that only putting them on the front suspension will cause my rear to sag a good deal. Any advice? Debating just getting an aggressive alignment with stock components or waiting for the appropriate parts to be put on. (fairly aggressive back road diving with an occasional track day)
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Aug 5, 2011 07:03
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VolumeBroadcast posted:
I seriously hate aftermarket camber bolts and would go top hats - that being said do castor mods first, you get more bang for buck that way.
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Aug 5, 2011 08:26
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RaoulDuke12 posted:Never. They don't look too beat up though and they're all sparking without arcing. I tend to do these type of these part by part if I'm tight on funds.
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Aug 5, 2011 12:33
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How the gently caress can a strut snap internally??!?!I"ve never seen a suspension fail like what fell off the 06 today. Seriously contemplating an MY12 and retire the 06 to track duties - after a small refresh.
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Aug 5, 2011 14:28
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So I am looking at rebuilt wrx/sti with 100,000 km on it Body is from a 2004 2.5 TS wagon. Car has a rebuilt title, and I am in Ontario. My area has a number of subaru specialists, and the swap was performed by one of them so I believe that the swap was done right Here is a listing of what was put into the car during the rebuild, from the guy who rebuilt it: Both front air bags (Momo wheel), air bag control unit and front seat belts and front sensors were replaced Dash was changed out to WRX black with all door cards Front and rear WRX seats Gauge pod Complete ( all the way to rear of car ) wireing harness was swaped out to WRX GC8 aluminium lower control arms v7 inverted struts and springs all around 4 pot front, 2 pot rear brakes R 180 rear diff with big knuckles GC8 STi axles all around0 JDM v7 sti power train 2.0 L JDM factory down pipe with cat STi reat muffler WRX center pipe Engine ECU re-flashed to remove 180 KPH speed limiter 18" Spec B wheels and tires Extra waist spoiler on hatch ST1 side skirts STi fog covers and side bolsters STi hood scoop STi carbon fiber tie bar Adjustable blow off valve (this will be coming out if i do buy i I looked at the vehicle, it drives very well and is in excellent shape. Is going to need 8 tires and brake pads within the next year, IMO. For anyone who is knowledgeable, what should a vehicle like this sell for? How much hurt would I be in for if I were to buy this? I have some mechanical knowledge and want to learn more but would likely take it to local specialists for something complicated.
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Aug 5, 2011 18:28
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Tongsy posted:So I am looking at rebuilt wrx/sti with 100,000 km on it This is essentially what I am building (minus the drivetrain swap and external bits) for my 2002 Impreza wagon.  What's the price on it (if you don't mind me asking)? I know our prices for Subarus are inflated up here.
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Aug 5, 2011 18:51
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Cat Terrist posted:How the gently caress can a strut snap internally??!?!I"ve never seen a suspension fail like what fell off the 06 today. Pics?
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Aug 5, 2011 18:58
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Sockington posted:This is essentially what I am building (minus the drivetrain swap and external bits) for my 2002 Impreza wagon. The price is $13,500 CAD
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Aug 5, 2011 19:03
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Lord Gaga posted:If by fun drives you mean, 25mph exit ramp suggestion means 75 is just fine then yes. Id like to start autocrossing, we'll see how that pans out. There are local events fairly regularly. How much faster will that much 1 degree extra camber wear out tires? I am currently getting less than 30k out of my sumitomos. I know with 1.5 degrees (the max I can get) back when I AXed on my daily driver tires, they always wore out on the outside edge. Now with the same alignment on non-autocrossed streets, I get a touch more wear on the inside edge, but it isn't significant, my HTR Z-IIIs lasted 30k mi.
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Aug 5, 2011 19:03
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My outsides shredded pretty fast though I don't know what the alignment on my car is.
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Aug 5, 2011 19:05
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Is there any reason you Canadians don't buy your cars in the US? Given how weak the USD is right now, it makes even more than usual sense.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:54
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Wrar posted:Is there any reason you Canadians don't buy your cars in the US? Given how weak the USD is right now, it makes even more than usual sense. Additionally, we have to pay duty for a non-NAFTA car as well as sales tax on the car. Idiotically, Subaru Canada actually double-imports their cars (first to SIA to be finalized, then to Canada to be sold) so they pay NAFTA duty twice on every car you buy from a dealership. The import process is also a bit of a pain (you have to give the border 48h notice before you can begin the export/import process). Some cars also have to have things fitted (Federally mandated daytime running lights/immobilizer), and you have to take your car to Canadian Tire for the out-of-country inspection, which will probably mean that your car becomes horrendously damaged in the process by one of their subliterate air-tool aficionados. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Aug 5, 2011 |
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Aug 5, 2011 23:02
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Wrar posted:Is there any reason you Canadians don't buy your cars in the US? Given how weak the USD is right now, it makes even more than usual sense.  Customs makes it a bit of a pain. This was HUGE a couple years ago - buying pickups for about $10K less down south and bringing them up here. There's a few more forms to fill out now (unless the car is older than 15years).
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Aug 5, 2011 23:04
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Baby_Hippo posted:I couldn't go through X amount of pages in this thread but if anyone has any suggestions for places to find miscellaneous parts I'd appreciate it. And if you see me posting with spelling issues it's probably my boyfriend lurking with my account. Given how uncommon Brats are, it would make sense to check for parts interchangeability with a similar year GL/DL. Subaru doesn't (didn't?) like to use model specific parts.
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Aug 5, 2011 23:41
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