|
I feel like this has probably already been asked someplace in this thread, but... Can anyone provide a recommendation for a torque wrench? I have a new Subaru and I read that most bolts top out around 100 lbf. There is a Husky brand one over at Lowes that is 20-100 lbf. Should I find something with a lower minimum limit? Any brand recommendations? (I know its a personal thing, but advice is nice).
|
# ? Jul 31, 2011 22:17 |
|
|
# ? May 15, 2024 03:27 |
|
THE BLACK NINJA posted:I feel like this has probably already been asked someplace in this thread, but... Someone in this thread tested a few brands against each other I think. Might be helpful info.
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 00:17 |
|
3/8 SnapOn impact, $50 used and it works fine
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 00:36 |
|
Breast Pussy posted:3/8 SnapOn impact, $50 used and it works fine Except it's not a torque wrench?
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 03:11 |
|
AlternateAccount posted:Except it's not a torque wrench?
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 03:17 |
|
Speaking of torque wrenches, anyone know a good place to get one recalibrated?
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 05:50 |
|
CornHolio posted:I used up my gift card at Harbor Freight yesterday and got one of their new Pittsburg Pro 3/8" ratchets. Its all good till it gets a little wear in, then it feels looser than a Cincinnati whore on a Friday night.
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 07:30 |
|
Breast Pussy posted:if I was talking about torque wrenches I would've quoted the dude who asked about them. I'm just gloating about a decent deal I got. That is a cool deal. Is 3/8" useful, or somewhat small for an impact? I don't think I've ever seen an impact socket that wasn't 1/2".
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 07:37 |
|
I use my 3/8 impact more than I do my air ratchet, and definitely more than my 1/2in impact. So I'd say it's definitely useful, but I'm not sure I would go buy one just for a home garage, and air ratchet can do most of what it does just a bit slower.
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 08:02 |
|
Is there such thing as a quieter air ratchet? I have a 3/8" craftsman one that works just fine, but it's kind of annoying to shove cigarette filters in my ears every time I used it.
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 08:51 |
|
Breast Pussy posted:if I was talking about torque wrenches I would've quoted the dude who asked about them. I'm just gloating about a decent deal I got. Ah, sorry. And yeah, I WAS kind of jealous :\
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 11:23 |
|
Alldata has a coupon code Enter Code REPAIR2011 that gets you one year for 10 bucks or 3 years for 23 bucks. I assume this is single car price. Enter it in the gift code box.
|
# ? Aug 1, 2011 15:13 |
|
So I've finally decided it's time for me to get off my lazy rear end and start learning to weld. From my research, it seems like the best thing to do is learn to TIG weld. My goals are to be able to repair non-vital motorcycle parts first, then learn to build subframes/fairing stays and exhausts, and then finally move up to mounts for engine swaps, with the last step being making my own frames. I have a reasonable amount of money to spend to start looking for equipment (~$1200, give or take a few hundred as needed, cheaper is better). I know that there are a number of good brands (Lincoln, Miller), but I'm not entirely sure on what I should be looking for for my particular application, nor what additional tools I should have. I'd love to spend hours at a time welding up bike parts, and I do have a 220v plug in the garage for the washer/dryer setup that I can snag. Basically, what should go in the novice welder's toolkit? What should I be looking for in a machine?
|
# ? Aug 2, 2011 01:11 |
|
Z3n posted:So I've finally decided it's time for me to get off my lazy rear end and start learning to weld. No particular goals in mind - just think LeMons/Chump car - being able to weld in a window net bracket, weld in some brackets for a motor mount or even cage.
|
# ? Aug 2, 2011 23:13 |
|
I went MIG and picked up a Hobart a year ago, and a 75/25 bottle. It's 220 Volts, and has performed wonderfully.
|
# ? Aug 2, 2011 23:53 |
|
CornHolio posted:I used up my gift card at Harbor Freight yesterday and got one of their new Pittsburg Pro 3/8" ratchets. When doing a casual comparison between that, the standard craftsman wrench, and the 80ish tooth Snap-on ratchets, the HF ratchet is 80% as nice as the snap-on, and seems to be able to take abuse OK. Snap-ons are still shaped better, thinner, have a better feel, and are probably stronger, but poo poo,
|
# ? Aug 3, 2011 02:08 |
|
daslog posted:I went MIG and picked up a Hobart a year ago, and a 75/25 bottle. It's 220 Volts, and has performed wonderfully. Your post does not help. A bit more details. Personally I would like a mig for 110 w/out a bottle now but able to add one on later. Links to products help too.
|
# ? Aug 3, 2011 05:31 |
|
Schatten posted:Your post does not help. A bit more details. Without gas it's just flux core. Look for a Lincoln Weld Pak on craigslist. The 125 or 140 will do 1/4"-5/16" thick, any more and you'd need 240v. You can buy a kit for ~$100 to add gas and convert to MIG. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/equipment/retail-products/Pages/product=K2514-1.aspx
|
# ? Aug 3, 2011 06:52 |
|
Anybody got any ideas on what to use this $50 snap on gift card I've had laying around on? I'm leaning towards some nice crimpers or a riveter, but I dont know if the quality justifies the price difference from HF.
|
# ? Aug 4, 2011 16:29 |
|
kmcormick9 posted:Anybody got any ideas on what to use this $50 snap on gift card I've had laying around on? I'm leaning towards some nice crimpers or a riveter, but I dont know if the quality justifies the price difference from HF.
|
# ? Aug 4, 2011 17:03 |
|
Id spend it on phillips, flat, hex and torx bits. The HF ratcheting crimpers are actually quite good. The HF terminals and wire suck. This crimper rocks: http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html
|
# ? Aug 4, 2011 17:06 |
|
Lord Gaga posted:Id spend it on phillips, flat, hex and torx bits. The HF ratcheting crimpers are actually quite good. The HF terminals and wire suck. Yeah, that crimper works great, especially for ~$12. Easily my favorite Harbor Freight purchase.
|
# ? Aug 4, 2011 18:43 |
|
Does anybody have experience with this riveter http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12777&group_ID=1783&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog or any other swivel head riveter for that matter? Is the action going to be harder than a regular straight on riveter?
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 16:48 |
|
kmcormick9 posted:Does anybody have experience with this riveter http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=12777&group_ID=1783&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog Buy a nice ratchet. Arrow brand rivet tools are pretty much all you will need. SharkyTM should be able to back me up on this (uses Arrow for his marine work).
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 17:11 |
|
Do you put in a ton of rivets, every day? If so, maybe spend the money for Snap-On. Otherwise, buy an Arrow. $10 at Home Depot (if you don't need more than 1/8 and 3/16 mandrels), and they last just as long as anything more expensive. I highly doubt the Snappy is anything other than a rebadged Arrow.
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 17:38 |
|
How do these air compressors look? http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/tls/2482114603.html http://santabarbara.craigslist.org/tls/2529928121.html I'd be using it for light air tool use, and seating tires.
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 19:47 |
|
That Craftsman. My dad has, I believe, that exact same compressor. It is a loud slow piece of poo poo. The only reason it's at all usable is because it has a decent sized tank. All the fittings and lines are poo poo, and it likes to just keep running sometimes until it blows the pop-off valve at like 160PSI and I come over and turn it off myself.
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 20:24 |
|
Avoid the Craftsman one. I had one, and sold it in perfect shape for $150. I was glad to be rid of it... I bought a 5HP C-H 80 gallon from Lowes.
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 21:37 |
|
I've got a horizontal tanked Craftsman similar to the one you linked. It's 15+ years old and works fine for me, never any problems, but I'd get the CH without a second thought.
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 22:17 |
|
Z3n posted:How do these air compressors look? Of the two I'd get the CH. That looks like a 3hp VT series pump, should do ~5cfm@90psi. Just make sure you hear it run.
|
# ? Aug 5, 2011 22:17 |
|
Thanks guys. I'll drop the CH guy a line.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 03:00 |
|
Recommend me a 12 VDC to 120VAC power converter rated for up to 8 amps I'm going camping with a friend in the middle of nowhere and we'd like to use a few power tools, except all of the tools we own are corded with only our vehicles as power sources. We only intend to use the tools for a few minutes at a time. I tried googling around, but everything I've found that seems to meet the power requirements looks like it'll burn down our cars.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 06:31 |
|
Brigdh posted:Recommend me a 12 VDC to 120VAC power converter rated for up to 8 amps Your search will be easier with the right terminology. Going DC>AC takes an "Inverter." You might look at some rough math first, though. Power (watts) = Voltage * Amps So to get 8amps at 120 volts you'll need an inverter rated above 960 watts. However, using the same formula, the alternator would have to supply 68 amps to get 960 watts at 14v while still providing the engine power to run. That also assumes that the inverter is 100% efficient, which is impossible. I don't know what you're driving, but the last alternator I replaced was only rated 80amp and that number is probably much lower with the engine at idle speed. There are some big inverters meant for mobile use, but most of them are sold in truck stops. eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Aug 6, 2011 |
# ? Aug 6, 2011 08:06 |
|
Brigdh posted:Recommend me a 12 VDC to 120VAC power converter rated for up to 8 amps Like what kind of power tools? There's a big power difference between a drill and something like a reciprocating saw.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 08:35 |
|
Alternatively, get battery powered versions. It's a lot easier to charge a tool battery off of a car than it is to run the tool directly.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 09:00 |
|
eddiewalker posted:Your search will be easier with the right terminology. Going DC>AC takes an "Inverter." You might look at some rough math first, though. Power (watts) = Voltage * Amps So to get 8amps at 120 volts you'll need an inverter rated above 960 watts. I'm aware the "correct" term is inverter. Wouldn't the vehicle battery make up for any deficit in the alternator? Lowclock posted:Like what kind of power tools? There's a big power difference between a drill and something like a reciprocating saw. drill, jigsaw, and belt sander. The drills are the ones rated at 8amps, the rest are ~4amps IOwnCalculus posted:Alternatively, get battery powered versions. It's a lot easier to charge a tool battery off of a car than it is to run the tool directly. Thats technically a last resort, although the best cordless drills I've seen around only put out half the power of my corded one
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 09:16 |
|
I think a cheap generator will serve you better.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 10:17 |
|
Brigdh posted:Recommend me a 12 VDC to 120VAC power converter rated for up to 8 amps Your options are cordless tools, a generator ($99 HF 1000W gen will run light tools) or do what campers have done for aeons: hand tools.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 13:16 |
|
Um. A 1000 watt rated inverter will do what you want. We run 2000 watt inverters off of just batteries all the time. So long ad the car is running, you'll just drain the battery. I'd suggest buying a deep cycle battery, and running the inverter off of that. You can hook the deep cycle to your existing battery with jumper cables to charge it, or get a battery charger and run that. That being said, use cordless or hand tools, or buy a small genset.
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 14:14 |
|
|
# ? May 15, 2024 03:27 |
|
Sounds like my friend and I have a few options, we'll just have to discuss pros/cons and come to a conclusion. Thanks
|
# ? Aug 6, 2011 23:26 |