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Kasonic posted:Edit: vvvvvvv could you detail what you mean by "Highlight back up to red"? I'm retarded and I'm not entirely sure how/what I'm supposed to be highlight on big, flat surfaces. 1: Brown wash on red will darken it a notch, so you can use the same color as the basic coat, at least for delicate highlights. 2. Shade the edges, convex surfaces (like the shield) and anything that stands out. Looks ridiculous, but works really well. Thin the paint more than for a normal coat so you can blend the edges of the highlight and give it a smooth transition.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:43
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Kasonic posted:Any and all criticism and tips would be amazingly awesome. Judging from the photos (which are, as you said, a little hard to pick out details), I'd say your paint is too thick. Not as in many layers, but rather the consistency of your paint. Thinning paint is a tricky thing to learn, but it is an absolutely essential skill. Jonny Nox posted:Part of the problem is that adding white turns red into pink which registers to my eye at least as a different color, and that red paint is generally pretty transparent. Kasonic, if you have orange paint laying about, add that to red to brighten it up without turning it pink.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:50
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Corbeau posted:I badly need some advice. Somehow my last batch of priming went horribly awry, and the primer is acting more like sticky, granular dirt than like primer. Might have been due to spraying from too far away, but I'm not sure. What are efficient ways of removing bad primer from a mini? (About ten minis, actually...) Anything, slow: Grab an empty mason jar or similar (pasta sauce jar, etc), dump a bottle of simple green into it, throw your minis in, close it up to keep the fumes down. Wait 24 hours. Remove minis from jar, rinse with hot water while scrubbing with a stiff brush. Make sure you have something in place to catch any small bits that separate because the simple green weakened your super glue bonds.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:54
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Jonny Nox posted:Part of the problem is that adding white turns red into pink which registers to my eye at least as a different color, and that red paint is generally pretty transparent. One very common art-newbie's error is thinking that shading involves adding black and white to the base colour to darken and lighten it. It can do, but that will tend to lead to a dull-looking image/model/whatever. Very little in real life is shaded in stark pure-white light - ambient light shining into shadows tends to move them towards the blue end of the spectrum, and direct natural light being yellowish tends to move highlights towards yellow or red. In short, highlighting your reds with orange or even yellow (in small doses) is almost certain to look better than highlighting with white/red mixes. It's also worth noting that, as with photos taken on a cheap camera, the human eye tends to expect things to be more vibrant than they actually are, so painting with more vibrant/saturated colours that might seem natural should look really good. RichyP's work is a great example of this. Varying your hues and saturations as well as brightness will make things really pop. NB: speaking as a digital artist with a view to starting minis, so pinch of salt territory, of course.
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Aug 5, 2011 22:56
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Red is extremely difficult to highlight. You either start dark and layer through using a darker red as your midtone and work through pure red then to a orange/white/red mix as your highlight, or you start with red as your midtone and shade down heavily and then edge highlight. Either way, if you start with red as your midtone and try to blend up to from there you will end up with pinkish orange. Red is all about shading, and very small highlights.
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Aug 5, 2011 23:33
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Sole.Sushi posted:
Sweet deal, I'm going to try that. I will admit to avoiding red as a main color since I had such hard time getting to look good. Adding yellow to green to highlight might also be an interesting experiment, I'm going to try that on a different model too this weekend. Trip report Monday.
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Aug 5, 2011 23:33
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Careful when you do this: a little bit will go a long way, and too much will turn your red into a salmon-colored mess.
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Aug 6, 2011 03:30
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This is the awesome box I received from Combaticus this week. Oh there was also some space marine bits inside the box as well.
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Aug 6, 2011 09:43
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I went to a Dollar Tree with a friend and discovered a huge amount of LA's Totally Awesome. That's the stuff that's even better than Simple Green for removing paint, right?
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Aug 6, 2011 12:10
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Yep.
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Aug 6, 2011 12:14
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Captain Invictus posted:I went to a Dollar Tree with a friend and discovered a huge amount of LA's Totally Awesome. That's the stuff that's even better than Simple Green for removing paint, right? It's pretty good. I'd put it about on par with Simple Green, though it will burn the poo poo outta you if you don't use gloves and doesn't smell as nice.
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Aug 6, 2011 18:12
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L.A.'s also eats through primer far more effectively than Simple Green does.
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Aug 6, 2011 18:27
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Meh, I've had pretty mixed results.
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Aug 6, 2011 18:30
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I wasn't super impressed with LA's, to be honest. Not enough to deal with something far less safe and environmentally friendly than Simple Green, at least.
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Aug 6, 2011 18:48
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Getting the armies together for a game of Epic yesterday, when I found that my friend had taken an extra Librarian, that I hadn't painted a model for yet. Fortunately I had one primed, and decided to quickly push it out before the game. I wanted to make it look good, so I decided to try actually mixing my paints for essentially the first time. (I'm not a particularly great painter :P ) The base was a little messed up, so I figured I'd try and make it part of the model, as opposed to just a flaw. Since I'm also a masochist, I decided this would be the best time to try OSL (One-Source Lighting? That's the name for it, right?) on this little guy. So, an hour and a half later, this is what I produced (just in time for the game) (apologies for lovely cell-phone camera; bad enough for 28mm, but on 6mm it's killer) Any advice?
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Aug 6, 2011 19:51
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Fyrbrand posted:I wasn't super impressed with LA's, to be honest. Not enough to deal with something far less safe and environmentally friendly than Simple Green, at least. Since we're discussing paint stripping, has anyone ever had any experience stripping the prepainted D&D minis line? It's going to be a priority as and when I start painting, because that's going to be what I'm using minis for - so I'd really like to know if I can safely strip them. I'm concerned that the normal plastic stripping solutions won't work, because the plastic is crappy bendy stuff, not hard like warhams. Suggestions of supplies available in the UK, if possible, thanks in advance.
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Aug 6, 2011 21:20
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thespaceinvader posted:Since we're discussing paint stripping, has anyone ever had any experience stripping the prepainted D&D minis line? It's going to be a priority as and when I start painting, because that's going to be what I'm using minis for - so I'd really like to know if I can safely strip them. I'm concerned that the normal plastic stripping solutions won't work, because the plastic is crappy bendy stuff, not hard like warhams. You dont necessarily need to strip them - You can probably just prime over them. The detail on D&D minis isn't so fine that a good spray primer would obscure them.
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Aug 6, 2011 21:35
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The detail is fine enough that thick goopy lovely paint jobs plus spray primer probably does though. I'll have to buy up some cheap ones I don't mind ruining and runs some tests at some point.
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Aug 6, 2011 22:03
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thespaceinvader posted:The detail is fine enough that thick goopy lovely paint jobs plus spray primer probably does though. I'll have to buy up some cheap ones I don't mind ruining and runs some tests at some point. Yeah, the quality (of both the sculpts and the painting) on those minis really went up considerably over time. The first couple of sets were atrociously done, and would look terrible next to anything GW makes. The more recent stuff would stand up much better I think.
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Aug 6, 2011 22:12
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I'm looking to get back into playing Warhammer Fantasy (Vampire Counts to be specific), could anyone suggest a good starter kit for painting? I think I've seen something like this posted before, as in what brushes to get, some decent paint and primer, all that stuff. I know that GW sells some bundles like that, are they worth it? Thanks!
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Aug 7, 2011 01:11
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Don't buy GW stuff, except for their paint pots. Get nice brushes at your local hobby store or online. Buy primer at a hardware store (make sure it's matte). I like to get acrylic white and black paint from an art store. Make sure it's decent stuff, though, not that apple barrel crap. Apart from that there's a few lines of acrylic paint you can get: GW, Vallejo, or Privateer Press. GW has nice foundation paints, washes, and metallics.
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Aug 7, 2011 06:23
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P3 paints, GW metallics and washes. This is the way to go.
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Aug 7, 2011 07:59
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Toussaint Louverture posted:P3 paints, GW metallics and washes. This is the way to go. Vallejo would like a word.
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Aug 7, 2011 08:06
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S.J. posted:Vallejo would like a word. I would like a word with them about their game color being almost too watery. trying to paint fewer than 30 coats for coverage over black primer, guys. Maybe give me some loving pigment.
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Aug 7, 2011 08:27
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S.J. posted:Vallejo would like a word. Real hurthling! posted:I would like a word with them about their game color being almost too watery. trying to paint fewer than 30 coats for coverage over black primer, guys. Maybe give me some loving pigment. I find Game Colour a bit too glossy, but I love the matte effects that Model Colour gives you just have to stir it on the palette otherwise it separates pretty quickly.
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Aug 7, 2011 09:37
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Real hurthling! posted:I would like a word with them about their game color being almost too watery. trying to paint fewer than 30 coats for coverage over black primer, guys. Paint white first where light colors go on black primer. Nothing should take more than four coats ever.
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Aug 7, 2011 11:57
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Real hurthling! posted:I would like a word with them about their game color being almost too watery. trying to paint fewer than 30 coats for coverage over black primer, guys. Maybe give me some loving pigment. You must've confused them with GW. Or have a bad batch. In my experience the VGC pigment is way better than the GW one, with which I had problems similar to yours.
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Aug 7, 2011 12:09
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I have got P3, Vallejo and GW paints. The GW paints aren't that bad really.
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Aug 7, 2011 15:03
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I'd love to see GW switch over to dropper bottles. P3 as well, for that matter. The only real, legitimate complaint I have for Vallejo is their distribution practices, but that's not even really an issue thanks to the internet.
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Aug 7, 2011 15:57
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Thanks for the advice so far! Could someone suggest some nice brushes? I don't even know what I'll be looking for. I think I've heard the name S7 batted around before, but honestly starting from scratch like this, I have no clue. I figure I need a regular brush and a drybrush at least, but hell I've never even used a palatte before.
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Aug 7, 2011 16:52
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Kinda digging these Reaper paints.
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Aug 7, 2011 16:54
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Darksaber posted:Thanks for the advice so far! Could someone suggest some nice brushes? I don't even know what I'll be looking for. I think I've heard the name S7 batted around before, but honestly starting from scratch like this, I have no clue. I figure I need a regular brush and a drybrush at least, but hell I've never even used a palatte before. Windsor & Newton Series 7. But basically anything with real sable hair is nice, brand doesn't really matter except that I have yet to have a happy experience with GW brushes. Just buy proper sable brushes from any art shop and you should be fine. Don't overthink it if you are a beginner, as you are likely to ruin brushes as you learn the hobby. Hell, I still ruin brushes all the time because I treat them like poo poo. Buy something that is not the cheapest crap, but is not so expensive that it will break your bank if you have to buy a new one. This of course means different things to different people, depending on your hobby budget. You want one detail brush and one bigger brush, and maybe an even bigger brush for drybrushing. Drybrushin is really tough on brushes and doesn't really require a good brush, so you can be a bit cheap on this one. Actual sizes for detail brushes and "standard" brush varies from person to person, I usually use 0 and 00 size brushes for pretty much everything but drybrushing. E: This just in: it is a bad idea to get so excited about a project that you sit down and start painting away wearing a brand new white shirt. Especially when you are doing sloppy coats of black Gesso. Bye bye new shirt. 
lilljonas fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Aug 7, 2011 |
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Aug 7, 2011 18:07
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Buy anything Kolinsky sable with a good point. I wouldn't buy online, you may pay a little more in a store but you'll be sure to get a nice point and you'll know what their sizes constitute. I use Raphael and Vallejo because the sizes are significantly different. A Raphael 0 is between a Vallejo 1 and 2. I paint I'd get a 00 a 0 and possibly a 1 if you're planning on painting large models. Just remember to be very careful about keeping the paint out of the ferrule (metal bit), since that's how you ruin a brush. It's easier to keep larger brushes nice than smaller ones. Buy some brush soap and use it religiously. If you plan on using a drybrush just get a nice poofie synthetic brush. Look for something that looks like a makeup brush. Having good brushes makes a huge difference. My painting didn't really improve until I switched from synthetic to sable.
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Aug 7, 2011 22:15
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So here's my first terrain commission:      I'm reasonably happy with how it came out. Here's hoping the LGS owner is too!
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Aug 7, 2011 23:27
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That looks really dope, dude.
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Aug 7, 2011 23:31
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Fyrbrand posted:So here's my first terrain commission: Looks great, but did you paint the inside? I have the same thing sitting on my shelf and I keep wanting to paint it but don't know if I should assemble it all first and just do the outside or prime each piece, paint each side and then glue it together.
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Aug 7, 2011 23:41
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Im sorry, I know this is asked pretty regularly, but what are some suggestions to highlight chaos black? Trying to decide on painting my purifiers black, or silver with a red hue.
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Aug 7, 2011 23:42
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1:1 Black & Codex Grey, then straight Codex, then a Badab wash. Or if you want something a bit more interesting, try P3 Coal Black.
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Aug 7, 2011 23:56
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Thanks Fix. CFH: hell no. Its extremely difficult to see the interior when it's assembled. Shame, because the bottom floor in particular looks really cool.
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Aug 8, 2011 00:14
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Drumstick posted:Im sorry, I know this is asked pretty regularly, but what are some suggestions to highlight chaos black? Trying to decide on painting my purifiers black, or silver with a red hue. I find painting with Charadon Granite (a really dark charcoal grey), highlighting with Codex Grey, and then washing Badab Black gives a pretty realistic black.
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Aug 8, 2011 00:17
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