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That said, the cracking is actually a really great texture if you're going for something like ancient chaos armor or battle damage.
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Aug 10, 2011 21:57
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I really wanted to having that cracking effect on my ceramic Eldar to make them look awesomely vintage, but I could never get it to come together consistently. Sometimes it didn't happen at all, sometimes it was all shiny as poo poo, sometimes it would just look like crap. For a single dude, fine, but no way was I going to wrestle that across an entire army. A pity, it would have looked baller. 
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Aug 10, 2011 22:20
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Ashcans posted:I really wanted to having that cracking effect on my ceramic Eldar to make them look awesomely vintage, but I could never get it to come together consistently. Sometimes it didn't happen at all, sometimes it was all shiny as poo poo, sometimes it would just look like crap. For a single dude, fine, but no way was I going to wrestle that across an entire army. I still want to try it again, but with some fancier stuff to see if it could work for some Chaos Marines.
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Aug 10, 2011 22:27
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Dominion posted:The old washes required watering down, and were not super magic one-shot shading like the current citadel ones are. Now, basically that means that yes, you could easily have made Badab Black in 1991 or whatever, but it was an extra step that most people didn't know how to do. Now it's literally open pot, slosh on model, and the stuff looks a million times better than it used to. At least they *could* be watered down, not like today when this poo poo is so thin you can't really use it the way you could the older ones. gently caress GW and their greed. Once I go through the pot I have (shouldn't take long) I'm switching to Vallejo. Gimme an old-style blue-cap Flesh Wash any day.
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Aug 10, 2011 23:08
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loving greedy gw producing vastly superior washes
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Aug 10, 2011 23:13
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Lethemonster posted:Why don't you guys just buy normal artists inks and washes? There's hundreds of those. I keep meaning to pick up some Dayler-Rowney white to try checkers on my orks. I do, now. But when you're just starting out, buying artist inks and mixing your own washes is not really realistic. The GW washes are amazing results with zero work. It's not that they made something possible that was formerly impossible, it's that they made something trivially easy that formerly took some amount of practice or knowledge to do. The kid in the GW store looking at the paints doesn't know how to make his own black wash and have it be better and orders of magnitude cheaper than buying them, he doesn't have a tub of matte medium or flow aid at home, he can barely paint inside the lines yet. But he can slather on some Badab and have his first model look great for it, and that will go a long way towards getting him into the hobby than making his first model.
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Aug 10, 2011 23:27
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Lethemonster posted:I'm dissapointed I couldn't get their pupils done though, they look like the five-blind-orks. I heard people use micron pens but I'm completely broke at the moment so all my future orks are gonna have some serious occular problems. On most boys I don't even put yellow in the eyes, it is so small an the colors are similar that it is hard to tell anyhow.
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Aug 10, 2011 23:50
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will blow your mind.
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WhiteOutMouse posted:Orks have red eyes with yellow pupils. Just to let you know before you get to far and figure this out. Same here. Screw doing anything more than a quick mechrite red for eyes on hundreds of boyz.
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Aug 11, 2011 00:15
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WhiteOutMouse posted:On most boys I don't even put yellow in the eyes, it is so small an the colors are similar that it is hard to tell anyhow. What I used to do was paint the eye yellow, then lay some Baal Red in there. Warbosses and sometimes Nobs would get the red painted on. Yes, that would result in massive pupils, but who knows how Ork biology works?
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Aug 11, 2011 01:04
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Cygnar image spam  eCaine:   Kara Sloan:  
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Aug 11, 2011 07:01
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I'm 28 and started playing when I was 12 or 13. I've still got some old hexagon GW paints and washes lying around, and came across my big box of miniatures from way back when my most advanced painting technique was drybrushing. That poo poo makes me shudder to look at it, I've come so far.
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Aug 11, 2011 07:51
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Need some advice off someone who understands colour theory or something.. Pretty much finished with a Furioso I've been painting for the last few weeks, but cant decide what colours to paint the  Dragonforge base its going on..Here's a slightly shoddy phone pic:   Suggestions?
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Aug 11, 2011 09:33
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Teal and off-white yin-yang. It should really set off that red, and if you find it to be too much, thankfully your base is ruins, so you can scuff/dirty it a bit to bring down the color. VVVV Out! Out of my head drat you! 
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Aug 11, 2011 09:39
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^^^ Get bent, you wormhole of ideas. Black/(off)White, Hawk Turquoise Dust the black with a really light brown that goes with the off-white. Fix fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 09:40
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Well I guess that's decided then! cheers, will have it finished and photo'd sometime next week I expect
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Aug 11, 2011 09:50
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Electric Pink
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Aug 11, 2011 10:01
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Fix posted:^^^ Get bent, you wormhole of ideas. I don't know if this is a complement, but I am literally flipping tables right now in PURE ANGER
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Aug 11, 2011 10:04
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FROOOOOOOOG posted:What I used to do was paint the eye yellow, then lay some Baal Red in there. Warbosses and sometimes Nobs would get the red painted on. Orks be tripping. Yeah if you're new making washes would be a bit daunting but some of you appear to have been painting for a couple of centuries  Anyone here used iridescent medium on there models? I picked up a tub randomly the other day and I'm trying to think of actual uses for it now. Gonna slather it everywhere in the name of investigation first! Skarsnik posted:Need some advice off someone who understands colour theory or something.. Tiny bits of moss around the cracks and maybe a little blue tinge to the colour of some of the stones would look awesome as well. Really deep coloured moss.
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Aug 11, 2011 10:10
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Lethemonster posted:Anyone here used iridescent medium on there models? I picked up a tub randomly the other day and I'm trying to think of actual uses for it now. Gonna slather it everywhere in the name of investigation first! Isn't iridescent medium for watercolour paint? I use lots of matte medium and bought a huge tub of that a couple of years ago, it's great for controlled translucent layering without having to slather the model in a wash. I did some experiments with metallics + paint + matte medium to get a similar effect to what you're looking at with iridescent medium. Another good combo is glaze medium + mithril + brown ink but that acts more like a traditional wash and is great for quick rust. Likewise glaze medium + turquoise for verdigris. I'm going to go and play with some more mediums now 
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Aug 11, 2011 10:17
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Playing with mediums is fun. Using a combo of matte medium, thinner, and glaze medium I messed about with this Badmoon Icon. Step 1 - Base  Just painted in Iyanden Darksun over black primer. Step 2 - Glaze medium + Thinner Combo aka cheapo wash  I mixed up something like 6 drops of glaze medium, 4 drops of thinner and a drop of salmon coloured paint (yellow+red+brown) and washed it over the model. It's really, really thin so I applied more in the deeper recesses like the teeth. Problem with it is that it dries a really horrid glossy tone, so before the next step I hit it with some matt varnish and dried it under a hairdryer. Step 3 - Matte Medium + Paint aka the lazy persons wet blending helper (me)  This looks sloppy but it was a 2 minute showcase. Using Matte Medium is a paint drying retarder is pretty much what I always do if I painting lots of larger areas. Here I mixed a couple of drops into some VMC Flat Yellow and repainted about 60% of the raised areas. While it's still wet I worked in pure VMC Sand Yellow quickly dragging it from the edge into the previous mix. then the same with my bone mix (white+yellow+brown something like 4:2:1). Who says bright yellow on black requires lots of coats, in fact it's too bright for the rest of my goblins so I'll probably wash it in a brown wash to tone it down anyway. EDIT: To avoid triple posting here's the finally completed Night Goblin Regiment. Now onto the next 20. 
richyp fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 11:19
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Fyrbrand posted:"Yes, yes, I am shooting guys in two directions at once again. This wouldn't be necessary if the rest of you troopers applied yourselves for once, but don't worry, it's what I've come to expect." (Seriously, the models look fantastic. Just something about eCaine's worldweary expression there...)
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Aug 11, 2011 13:57
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I have been selling all of my old 40k stuff on Ebay and although I'm sad to see it go I was quite surprised that even though it was built and painted people were happy to pay "as new" prices and they really liked the paint jobs. I'll miss my Chaos Marines but at least they've made some warham somewhere happy  Now all I have to remember them by is some old pics of them still WIP:  I'm now strictly WHFB! (or at least until they release the next 40K army I'm remotely interested in but am somehow compelled to buy it because of this hobby  )Right now it's all about the undead, waiting for my Terorgheist, new Wraiths, new Banshee and the garden of Morr to arrive. My banner that I'm super proud of because I hate free hand: 
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Aug 11, 2011 14:24
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richyp posted:Isn't iridescent medium for watercolour paint? Ive got Galleria matt and gloss mediums and they are great too, and a great price for how much you get vs how much you need to use. Picked up the iridescent to complete my set and because Im a magpie who cant resist spangly things. Im getting some really good worn/damage/rusty looks using it with non-silver metalics. Its got a really good texture to it as well that suits anything metal really well too. I would like some critique of my next lot of orks' current skin tones. They are on their second variation thus far, the first being this - which I found to much for my liking at the moment  So I washed it with asurmen blue and then highlighted and shaded it again (Washed)   (Highlighted and shaded)    I apologise for poor picture quality but I'm a vampire and can't hold a model in direct sunlight. I really like all three stages looking at them now, but I think what I've got now is the best... I'm not sure though. Was wondering what you guys thought and also how I could improve it in general. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 16:24
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Need opinions on this squig. Did I go too bright with the red highlights or does it look ok? The camera has made it look pretty much spot on to how it is in person but I can't decide if I like it or not.
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Aug 11, 2011 17:50
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I think it looks good, not to bright at all. Also I hate you for your speed, etc, the usual.
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Aug 11, 2011 18:07
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Are squigs canonically muddy? I always thought they were bright balloons of teeth, though that may just be because of the few my cousin gave me which were pink, yellow and baby blue.
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Aug 11, 2011 19:23
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Fyrbrand posted:Cygnar image spam You made him look so old.  You may not have done it on purpose though. One time I painted a Reaper ranger and he came out looking just like Ronald Reagan.
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Aug 11, 2011 19:58
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richyp posted:Need opinions on this squig. Did I go too bright with the red highlights or does it look ok? The camera has made it look pretty much spot on to how it is in person but I can't decide if I like it or not. Looks old and cantankerous, like some kind of bulldog. I like it.
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Aug 11, 2011 20:17
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GoodBee posted:You made him look so old. Yeah it's the highlights in the hair that really do it. So hard to properly highlight black, and about 10x more difficult when it's hair. Edit: I went to go hit him with Glosscote, and decided to wash the hair with badab one more time. Hopefully that will help a bit. Also tried to fix his wonky right eye with limited success. As far as I can tell, there's some little casting error in the eye itself meaning the eye takes paint oddly and looks extra weird. And I was proud of myself for doing them, too- usually just let a wash suffice instead of trying to paint eyes. Edit edit:  Highlights are difficult to see in the pic, but still visible in person. Fyrbrand fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 22:26
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Lethemonster posted:I would like some critique of my next lot of orks' current skin tones. They are on their second variation thus far, the first being this - which I found to much for my liking at the moment They look good to me. I love high contrast ork skin. Not a big fan of the dark green blended with darker green, but there are also great examples of that too. Do you have painting experience from somewhere else? didn't you recently post your first ever models, and now we see this? That is good and shows something I have never had. Patience. How can you stand painting things before you build them!
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Aug 12, 2011 10:17
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WhiteOutMouse posted:They look good to me. I love high contrast ork skin. Not a big fan of the dark green blended with darker green, but there are also great examples of that too. No, but I've taken up drawing and acrylics normally at the moment too because I have half a year off uni and nothing to do! Trying to take decent photos of the tiny buggers is the most annoying things in the world. But orks are quite easy I think, in comparison to other models. I have elves and sisters lying around that I painted a couple of bits on and then just went 'argh you're face is too small!' and cast them aside. I cant paint the models put together because I get too annoyed not being able to paint their armpits properly or whatever part doesn't matter  I quite like the high contrast now, I think I'll do my next batch like it. And for some useful information, I picked up some of the Winsor and Newton Galleria brushes a couple of weeks ago by accident for some reason thinking they were sable (I read good). They are actually really nice brushes. They hold paint really well, their point, have good snap, and haven't curled at all. Really good for doing fine work with metallics if you don't want to risk more expensive brushes. Far far nicer than any other synthetics, especially games workshop. Their red sable brushes, however, were a surprising let down. They came all nice and pointy with protectors on. Whipped them out, got some paint on them, watched them explode into a dandelion of bristles. Couldn't get a point on them to save my life. But very good for base coating larger areas because they do still hold paint nicely and surprisingly don't leave brush marks if your paint is thinned properly. Think they'll be very useful for tanks and they are less than £10 for 3. Lethemonster fucked around with this message at 11:15 on Aug 12, 2011 |
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Aug 12, 2011 11:08
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Made some progress on the Squig Boss guy. Not too happy with the green I think I went to subtle with the number of layers, compared to the rank and file guys might have to wash and relayer to make the contrast more obvious. Happy with the way the red came out in the end though. Here's the rank and file green which was surprisingly much easier and fewer layers than the above: 
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Aug 12, 2011 11:25
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I use Testors gray spray primer, and I've always noticed that it leaves a gritty texture. It's not outrageous, but noticeable. Is there a way around this? Do I have other priming options that will leave a smoother finish? I don't mind brushing on my primer, if that's what it'll take. I live in a dry, hot area, if that matters.
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Aug 12, 2011 12:34
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Finally finished my third Space Marine. First try at thinning my paints. When comparing to the other two the surface on his armor is significantly smoother. So I suppose I did it right to some degree. And here it is in comparison to the other two. Newest on the left, oldest on the right. 
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Aug 12, 2011 13:37
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^^^^^^ Huge improvement: the highlights and shading are visible on the model, and your lines are getting cleaner and cleaner with each model, which is very impressive. Lincoln posted:I use Testors gray spray primer, and I've always noticed that it leaves a gritty texture. It's not outrageous, but noticeable. Is there a way around this? Do I have other priming options that will leave a smoother finish? I don't mind brushing on my primer, if that's what it'll take. If I had to guess, it's one of two things: Testors primer has a lot of tooth to it (which is good for some things), or it's so hot where you are that it's causing the droplets to dry out before they even hit the model. If it's the first case, that's just how it is; if it's the second, try spraying a little closer to the model. In either case, you can just sand it down with some micro-fine sandpaper if it's really noticeable.
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Aug 12, 2011 13:44
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Sole.Sushi posted:^^^^^^ Thank you! I actually haven't done any shading yet. Unless the wash of badab black counts. I'll try and dry brush the shoulders a tiny bit perhaps.
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Aug 12, 2011 14:35
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Washing is most certainly a form of shading. People sometimes get down about "taking the wash shortcut" (most of the time, it's self-depreciating), but honestly washes are just another tool to use or not use, depending on personal preference. For highlighting, instead of drybrushing, try layering instead: basically, you just paint a brighter color over a darker mid-tone in a pattern that light would hit it. Layered highlighting is, in my opinion, a stronger highlighting technique to have, so starting earlier would give you just that much more practice. Also, a question for you: you've had artistic training before, haven't you. 
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Aug 12, 2011 15:06
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Gonna block Torabi so that I don't get depressed over how little my painting has progressed in the last ten years. Really nice progress man, it's impressive to see how quickly you're gaining ground. I look forward to getting some sweet painting tips from you in six months.
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Aug 12, 2011 15:10
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Hey miniatures goons some poo poo-bag stole some guys minis If you see them on Barter Town or at you FLGS let the owner know. http://stepphenthomson.blogspot.com/2011/04/items-stolen.html This occured in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.
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Aug 12, 2011 15:17
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Sole.Sushi posted:Washing is most certainly a form of shading. People sometimes get down about "taking the wash shortcut" (most of the time, it's self-depreciating), but honestly washes are just another tool to use or not use, depending on personal preference. To be honest, I have never had any form of artistic training. Last time I found myself painting something was probably in elementary school and I am 18 now. Ashcans posted:Gonna block Torabi so that I don't get depressed over how little my painting has progressed in the last ten years. Thank you. I am quite surprised myself to see that things are going so well for me.
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Aug 12, 2011 15:24
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