|
Hey gents, bit of a question, but how do you go about painting dark skin? Like West Indies. I generally know how to paint white/Caucasian but I'm a bit lost on how to do black skin.
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 17:04
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 13:07 |
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Hey gents, bit of a question, but how do you go about painting dark skin? Like West Indies. I generally know how to paint white/Caucasian but I'm a bit lost on how to do black skin. http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m820035a_Painting_Faces_Redux.pdf
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 17:17
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Hey gents, bit of a question, but how do you go about painting dark skin? Like West Indies. I generally know how to paint white/Caucasian but I'm a bit lost on how to do black skin. This is a quick rush job, the other one was done a few years ago.  Leather Brown (I think similar to Graveyard Earth), Highlight with Tallarn Flesh + Leather Brown. Final Highlight pure Tallarn.  Same as above but highlighted with small amounts of Sand Yellow (similar to bleached bone but slightly more yellowy) EDIT: vvvv Stippled Codex Grey + the base skin colour over the top of the head. richyp fucked around with this message at 17:26 on Aug 12, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 17:23
|
|
|
richyp posted:
And how did you do the buzz cut? ^^^: Thanks! Pierzak fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Aug 12, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 17:25
|
|
|
Nice one guys, that's a great help.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 17:44
|
|
|
richyp posted:Can't say enough good things about these. Friggin bad rear end, man.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 18:27
|
|
|
Spent the day building 4 of these guys and about an hour painting it. Really impressed with the quality of these models, a lot better than I was expecting.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 18:57
|
|
|
Torabi posted:To be honest, I have never had any form of artistic training. Last time I found myself painting something was probably in elementary school and I am 18 now. You have wasted your life. Fake Edit 1:  , etc.Fake Edit 2: By the time you get to my age, you'll be making golden daemon quality stuff if you continue to improve this quickly with each model.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 19:07
|
|
|
Gotta ask, coming up to finishing my first actual model, and is painting flesh always a pain?
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 19:50
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Gotta ask, coming up to finishing my first actual model, and is painting flesh always a pain? If you mean normal human flesh, then I find faces pretty easy but larger areas are hard, simply because getting it to look realistically human is hard. Painting ork flesh or zombies or fleshy beasts is easier because it's all poo poo that doesn't exist, so it doesn't have to look right to look right. We all know what human skin looks like though, so it being a little off takes away from the model.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 19:54
|
|
|
Flipswitch posted:Gotta ask, coming up to finishing my first actual model, and is painting flesh always a pain? Well yeah, they way they're suggesting it, I think. Flesh is always a pain to get right, and I think that, ultimately, what works best is to pick a dramatic undercoat (like pink or bronze), wash heavily with purple or blue, and then thinly apply the chosen skin tone until you get something reasonable. I don't really like to 'highlight' at all. I like to bring up the 'highlight' areas to the solid color of the skin, and let everything else shadow into the background. Then make sure you get the eyes, teeth, and (if they have it) tongue done right. Or not at all if you can get away with it. I mean, there's a guy around here who has a 'I have no mouth but I must scream' eyeless army, and they look great from a distance, too. But you've maybe seen the kill paint job guy who uses air brushing in multiple layers on the flesh *or* uses it on the rest of the mini, and paints the flesh with highlighting layers. It's an emphasis thing, and early on, I don't think a painter ever wants to emphasize flesh--he wants to emphasize the shiny armor and weapons which are more exciting, identifiable, and resilient to imperfect technique. IMO. Personally my flesh attempts were all over the map in terms of success. I had some faces on scouts that were done only with layers that I thought turned out well because my brush control was improving at the time, and a big bunch of cultists that were just basecoat + wash that I loved, because they looked consistent and bright with the blue robes and golden hat/masks (tzeentch). edit: if you go the manual highlight route, you definitely should think about sketching anatomy from art books a little bit to get an idea of how the shapes work. Highlight manually gets into this hazy double-duty of simulating direct light and emphasizing the contours of the model which are two distinct artistic endeavors, and can get confusing when you're trying to decide when to stop painting. TheCosmicMuffet fucked around with this message at 20:01 on Aug 12, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 19:58
|
|
|
Sole.Sushi posted:You have wasted your life. Heh, I guess time will tell. So far I am enjoying this a lot. Quite rare for me to enjoy something this much that isn't technology related. 
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 20:15
|
|
|
Dominion posted:If you mean normal human flesh, then I find faces pretty easy but larger areas are hard, simply because getting it to look realistically human is hard. Painting ork flesh or zombies or fleshy beasts is easier because it's all poo poo that doesn't exist, so it doesn't have to look right to look right. We all know what human skin looks like though, so it being a little off takes away from the model. TheCosmicMuffet posted:Well yeah, they way they're suggesting it, I think. Thanks for the advice guys, it's really helping this model come along. I'll post up a picture of it tomorrow when the sun might be out so you can see the colours clearly.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 20:30
|
|
|
Complete newbie who needs guidelines rather than specific directions. I paint from the bottle(Reaper Master) and I get good coverage, then my paint looks thick and muddy. I thin(5:1 paint:water) and my coverage is poo poo and shows black through 5 total coats of three shades of red that look sparse and barely applied.  I'm still practicing my brushing but I'm being as even and consistent as possible.Any good, simple tutorial videos on loading your brush and applying the right amount of paint?
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 21:06
|
|
|
Red paint just takes a lot of coats over black, man. You could start with a foundation paint like GW sells and Reaper's got a "HD" line that's similar stuff.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 21:09
|
|
|
Kasonic posted:Complete newbie who needs guidelines rather than specific directions. Yeah, red is just balls over black, dude. You aren't doing anything wrong. Your options are thin and it takes forever, or go buy a pot of GW Mechrite Red. Covers in 1, maybe 2 coats over black, even thinned, and then you can put whatever red you want over that.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 21:15
|
|
|
Dominion posted:Yeah, red is just balls over black, dude. You aren't doing anything wrong. Your options are thin and it takes forever, or go buy a pot of GW Mechrite Red. Covers in 1, maybe 2 coats over black, even thinned, and then you can put whatever red you want over that. It can also be worth trying one of the lighter colour opaque foundation paints. IIRC mechrite red is still transparent like most normal red paints? I have better luck with one of the stoney foundations then mechrite red/dark red.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 23:05
|
|
|
Yeah, the GW foundation paints are great for both red and yellow (Mecharite Red and Iyaden Darksun, respectively). Most people seems to agree that the GW foundation and metallic lines are worth getting. Also, don't paint straight from a bottle or a pot, using a pallet makes it MUCH easier to get a consistent viscosity.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 23:07
|
|
|
Foundations are awesome, but if you are like me and don't expect to paint so much of a color that you want the foundation for it, I strongly recommend building up to a shade. What I mean is, don't try to paint Blood Red over black because you will drive yourself crazy. Start with a darker shade, like Scab Red, over the primer, then build up to your high color.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 23:18
|
|
|
Dominion posted:Yeah, red is just balls over black, dude. You aren't doing anything wrong. Your options are thin and it takes forever, or go buy a pot of GW Mechrite Red. Covers in 1, maybe 2 coats over black, even thinned, and then you can put whatever red you want over that. Doing this with my Khador right now, and I have to say that it works pretty well. Only water added is from my wet palette. It's especially nice since it's a little darker than Scab Red (a little more purple), so if you want you can blend up from it.
|
|
#
?
Aug 12, 2011 23:52
|
|
|
First time basing. Stuff is made out of cork. Had to do it because I wanted to play with this model (already painted, gonna strip when I have the time) whose wings made it so the model couldn't stand upright without some height assistance. Followed some tutorial online to do this.  
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 00:44
|
|
|
INFINITY THREAD CROSSPOST! Painted my first Infinity dood. Only took like 3 hours! Teutonic Knight from Military Order. I don't know whether or not I like the white on white. White Knights and all that... Its my first attempt at painting white armor, and also my first attempt at painting a cross on fabric.    I might change the armor to navy blue, like the studio pattern. I could probably do that with some black wash, and some blue wash.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 01:00
|
|
|
Kasonic posted:Complete newbie who needs guidelines rather than specific directions. Like others have said use a foundation paint. Even then you will still need at least a couple of coats to get a decent coverage.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 08:07
|
|
|
Well after seeing the responses I ran out and grabbed some Reaper Master HD paints which are basically the same concept and they're amazing. Thanks guys. I also picked up the Citadel Baal Red Wash and I'm not seeing a big use for the bright washes. It seems like I'd prefer to go with a Badab Black, Devlan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia pretty much every time.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 08:40
|
|
|
Has anyone stripped paint from resin yet? Is there any reason I can't use the same thing I use for metal and just leave it a shorter amount of time?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 09:27
|
|
|
Anything that is good for metal but not good for plastic runs a chance of destroying the resin or at the very least ruining the details. Simple Green, LA's Totally Awesome and other things that are safe for plastic should be okay for resin.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 09:57
|
|
|
Kasonic posted:Well after seeing the responses I ran out and grabbed some Reaper Master HD paints which are basically the same concept and they're amazing. Thanks guys. You dont just need to use red washes over red areas - the coloured washes also can be used to give more interesting shading effects than just brown/black. I used blue and red to shade my orks and it gave the colours much more depth and blending than just a straight devlan would. What other colours are on your model?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 10:34
|
|
|
Agreed: if you want to give your red depth, hit it with a green wash (carefully). When the wash dries, it will pull your red down towards brownish color, giving you rich saturation which, in my opinion, always looks great for red.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 13:18
|
|
|
So I want to try highlighting for my fourth space marine. If I mix skull white with the ultramarine blue color and apply it to places like the shoulders. Won't it look immensely bad? This rough transition between the dark and bright. How do I make proper highlights?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 13:24
|
|
|
Torabi posted:So I want to try highlighting for my fourth space marine. Small transitions between colors is key. Also remember that it isn't going to look smoothly blended from close up unless your wet blending, which you definitely are not at this stage. Instead you're doing layers of successive shades, as many as you feel the insanity to do. It fools the eye into seeing highlights from a normal distance, like a Monet painting.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 14:05
|
|
|
Dominion posted:Small transitions between colors is key. Also remember that it isn't going to look smoothly blended from close up unless your wet blending, which you definitely are not at this stage. Instead you're doing layers of successive shades, as many as you feel the insanity to do. It fools the eye into seeing highlights from a normal distance, like a Monet painting. Highlighting blue with layering can be a bitch because the paint has very high opacity. You might find it more fun (at least I did) to learn thin edge highlighting first http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=400028&pIndex=1&aId=6500052a&multiPageMode=true&start=2 But otherwise the key is, the more gradual your transition between colours and the smaller the gaps between your layer changes the better it will look, but the trade of for this is more layers = more time. Blue is a difficult one, but when you finally get it it does look very good. In addition if you have any washes that can help with your highlighting - by shading the deeper parts of the marine you will end up with a better contrast/more colour transition up to your highlights than just your base blue colour. Since your zipping along learning to paint you might also like doing feathering; http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1273 I find this one quite easy and tend to get a better affect with blue than with layering. I'm trying to think of ways you can do something other than edge highlighting without sacrificing loads of paint... hmm... I hope this is useful but if I've got something screwed up someone just point it out. I'm currently high on antibiotics, codeine and nasal spray so who knows what kindof advice I'm really channeling.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 14:40
|
|
|
Deathjack shameless crossposts:
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 16:41
|
|
|
Just a WIP I mentioned last night as I finally got a photograph going. One of my first models and I think it's coming along nicely, I need to highlight it some more on the armour I feel, has anyone got any tips on where I can go from here too?
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 16:51
|
|
|
Thought I'd give this slow painting thing I keep hearing about a go. So I used pretty much nothing but wet blending and an absolute butt-load of layers on this guy and he's probably my favourite thing I've ever painted and I only started painting him because he was already stuck at the bottom of my abandoned models box pre-primed. EDIT: Better pic. richyp fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Aug 13, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 18:03
|
|
|
Lethemonster posted:You dont just need to use red washes over red areas - the coloured washes also can be used to give more interesting shading effects than just brown/black. I used blue and red to shade my orks and it gave the colours much more depth and blending than just a straight devlan would. What other colours are on your model? I don't use the colored washes for shading, I use them to blend my layers together. It works well for table top quality stuff since I can do less layers and it will still look smooth.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 18:40
|
|
|
richyp posted:Thought I'd give this slow painting thing I keep hearing about a go. You son of a bitch.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 18:58
|
|
|
I spent a few hours yesterday evening to do this lovely lady: EDIT: I know you cant see it because of the lovely phonepic/lighting, but the hair is a light grey highlighted with white.    
Turtle Dad 420 fucked around with this message at 23:04 on Aug 13, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 22:58
|
|
|
Turtle Dad 420 posted:I spent a few hours yesterday evening to do this lovely lady: looks really good, might want make the eyes a bit smaller though, they look pretty big at the moment. Any suggestions for paint stripping other than pinesol and simple green? Don't think I'm able to get those brands here in Denmark, right now I'm using acetone, it works pretty well, but there's still some pesky bits that won't really come off. Also was Smelly primer some kind of super paint? the undercoat seems especially hard to remove.
|
|
#
?
Aug 13, 2011 23:15
|
|
|
Combaticus posted:looks really good, might want make the eyes a bit smaller though, they look pretty big at the moment. I thought so, I've only been painting for about 2 months so when I got the eyes even I just left it. Went back over them just now:  EDIT: Also looking a the pics I see a purple highlight got onto one of the boots. FFFFF Turtle Dad 420 fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Aug 14, 2011 |
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2011 00:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 7, 2024 13:07 |
|
|
You've been painting for two months any you're already better than me. I've been painting for 5 years now, and I still can't highlight worth balls. God damnit
|
|
#
?
Aug 14, 2011 00:51
|
|
