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Lord Gaga posted:Oil pressure low but not non existent or possibly turbo making GBS threads itself? Loss of power due to oil turning into a solid slowly followed by oil starvation as the oil pump gets clogged. This takes a while though. Oil pickup tube?
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 17:04 |
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# ? May 17, 2024 13:56 |
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Also this is rather terrifying. I was thinking about doing a few power mods to my 02 with 105k now that my suspension is about done. Thinking no now.
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 17:12 |
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c355n4 posted:Stupid question; but, did you check the oil at any point during this? Oil was full at all times. Yes checked several times. Turbo was still hitting 17psi at 3100rpm in 5th gear. Doubt it's blown.
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 18:15 |
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Lord Gaga posted:Also this is rather terrifying. I was thinking about doing a few power mods to my 02 with 105k now that my suspension is about done. Thinking no now. Wrong. Do the power mods. Stage 2 upgrade was the best thing I ever did to my WRX. Wait til I see this "Stage 3" bit through before going further though
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 18:21 |
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I have a question about my 2011 impreza. The low fuel light seems to come on way too early. It always comes on when the fuel gauge is around where it is at in this stock photo. Do I need to take it in to the dealer and get it re calibrated or fixed?
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 19:50 |
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Mine comes on when the gauge reads like 1/8th of a tank (2011 wrx)
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 20:27 |
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Mine comes on in the '11 when it drat well feels like it. Same deal in my '02 as well. The low fuel light doesn't seem to be connected with reality in any way, shape, or form and never has.
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 21:30 |
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That actually seems like a good idea for it to come on that early to make sure you notice you need more gas instead of having to stop and be late on the way to work the next day or something.
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 21:52 |
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In my 98 the low fuel light doesn't come on until the needle is well below the E mark. Gotta pay attention to that light.
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 22:07 |
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2011 2.5i light comes on exactly when the needle is at 1/8th. I thought it was too early the first time I saw it.
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 23:12 |
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bull3964 posted:Hey, I'm ahead of the curve then by owning two! Well..... 06, 07, 04 STI and seriously looking at picking up a 93 WRX for a restore project as well as a MY12 STI to replace the 06 for road duties gently caress, kill me now. I'm collecting Subarus
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# ? Aug 11, 2011 23:46 |
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I'm suspecting the knock sensor on my Outback Sport is tightened with a little more than the factory spec of 17.4 ft lb as I can't remove it for poo poo. It's soaking in liquid wrench right now. I guess I might as well follow the factory manual and remove the airbox to get a bigger ratchet in there. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 02:34 on Aug 12, 2011 |
# ? Aug 12, 2011 00:11 |
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Txiuct posted:I have a question about my 2011 impreza. The low fuel light seems to come on way too early. It always comes on when the fuel gauge is around where it is at in this stock photo. Do I need to take it in to the dealer and get it re calibrated or fixed? That's what mine does too, from when it comes on I've done 50 miles averaging 23mpg. When the gauge drops below the last white mark I typically have around 8-10 more miles out of it.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 03:06 |
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So it looks like my 08 STI has got the infamous loss of compression in cylinder #4. This motor only has 10k miles on it since it was installed to replace the original motor with the spun rod bearings at 20k miles. I'm still waiting to hear what Subaru is going to do about it, here's hoping it's covered under warranty...again. My question is that last time they replaced the engine they asked me if I wanted to replace the clutch while they had everything apart saying it would be cheaper than getting it done on its own eventually. They said it would be around $800 and that it was "worn" but they couldn't say how worn. I opted not to do it since the car only had 20k miles on it and I don't launch hard or slip the clutch much and my 9-2x had plenty of clutch life left when I sold it at 65k miles. The STI now has around 30k miles on it and they're going to be pulling the engine apart again so I've got two questions: 1. Should I consider changing the clutch at this time? 2. If so, does anyone have any suggestions on what to get and where or should I just have them install another OEM unit? I'm familiar with some performance parts for Subarus but I have no clue what is good or bad or what I need regarding a clutch. I wasn't sure if the STI has some high performance clutch that wears out faster or something so I figured I'd ask. For reference, I've never had to replace a clutch in any of my cars before and one of them had 120k miles on it when I sold it with the original clutch so I'd say I'm generally pretty easy on them. I autocross the car sometimes but don't drag or track it so it probably has pretty normal wear. I'm supposed to hear tomorrow regarding what they're going to do so if I need to order something I should probably do that before the weekend.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 07:52 |
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You should be fine, but while it's apart they certainly could check to see how worn it is. I'm betting it's fine.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 13:28 |
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Lazor posted:So it looks like my 08 STI has got the infamous loss of compression in cylinder #4. This motor only has 10k miles on it since it was installed to replace the original motor with the spun rod bearings at 20k miles. I'm still waiting to hear what Subaru is going to do about it, here's hoping it's covered under warranty...again. Everything I've seen is that the sti clutch is better for life, but this is compared to the legacy GT whose clutch is notoriously soft.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 16:07 |
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nm posted:My (2005) warranty covered the clutch for 3yrs/36k mi. I'm not really worried about it being worn to the point of needing replacement. I'm wondering if it would be worn enough to justify spending the money now to replace it while they've got the engine apart rather than spending more down the road when it really needs it. They've already replaced my front brake pads under warranty and I'm hoping I can wear down the rears enough to be replaced before November when the warranty runs out.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 19:22 |
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Lazor posted:I'm not really worried about it being worn to the point of needing replacement. I'm wondering if it would be worn enough to justify spending the money now to replace it while they've got the engine apart rather than spending more down the road when it really needs it. They've already replaced my front brake pads under warranty and I'm hoping I can wear down the rears enough to be replaced before November when the warranty runs out.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 22:20 |
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Lazor posted:I'm not really worried about it being worn to the point of needing replacement. I'm wondering if it would be worn enough to justify spending the money now to replace it while they've got the engine apart rather than spending more down the road when it really needs it. They've already replaced my front brake pads under warranty and I'm hoping I can wear down the rears enough to be replaced before November when the warranty runs out. Clutches and brakes can be described as worn as soon as you've engaged them one time. It sounds like that dealership lives up to the stealership title. 20k on a clutch and they say it's worn to the point where they'd advise replacing it? And they'll only charge you $800 for the pleasure? I trust they at least offered the lube for free. tl;dr NO
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 22:42 |
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Amandyke posted:Clutches and brakes can be described as worn as soon as you've engaged them one time. It sounds like that dealership lives up to the stealership title. 20k on a clutch and they say it's worn to the point where they'd advise replacing it? And they'll only charge you $800 for the pleasure? I trust they at least offered the lube for free.
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# ? Aug 12, 2011 22:44 |
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Amandyke posted:Clutches and brakes can be described as worn as soon as you've engaged them one time. It sounds like that dealership lives up to the stealership title. 20k on a clutch and they say it's worn to the point where they'd advise replacing it? And they'll only charge you $800 for the pleasure? I trust they at least offered the lube for free. Maybe I worded it a little wrong, but they didn't advise me to change it last time they just said it was "worn" and when I asked how worn and worn enough to be replaced they pretty much said no. They said that it was their policy to stop and ask me if I wanted to change it at that point no matter what the condition since they already had the engine apart and they basically needed my ok to proceed. It sounded funny to me since it only had 20k miles on it but I guess they're supposed to ask regardless of condition which is why I opted not to change it. For some reason brake pads are covered under their warranty, that's why they replaced them for free.
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 05:25 |
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I have some casual/driving shoes size 45. Never worn too big for me. I have worn these same shoes all year in a smaller size and they are great. Not as narrow as Puma but not large by any means. Suede Sparco pit lane. These are now discontinued and the replacements (Esse) suck IMO. I'm offering $45 shipped (US) to the Subaru crew before I put these in the general sale. I liked these so much I have been trying to find a similar replacement for weeks. I tried the Piloti but feel they are too clunky. There is this new running shoe style called barefoot running. There are those foot glove shoes but some other more practical/less weird designs. The whole idea is super thin soles and lightweight materials. Awesome for driving and my preferred daily shoe. Most are very ergonomic and well made. I am trying a pair of Vivobarefoot shoes and they are great for pedal feedback and have super thin soles.
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 20:21 |
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I wish they made driving shoes that looked like normal shoes.
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 20:24 |
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These are what I'm wearing now. Vivobarefoot Aqua. This picture is super saturated. More subdued colors in person These Merrell Tough Gloves were a consideration and could pass in a lot of business situations and adhere to the super thin sole. for me the key is sole thickness. The foot is really a complicated extremity with many nerves. Much of them subconsciously give you information about the surface you are standing on. Many overly cushioned shoes actually promote incorrect walking and running because it absorbs impacts that would otherwise hurt you. I never felt comfortable with the super thick cushioned shoes. I am a drummer and like to drive three pedal cars. I always perform much better either totally barefoot or with my driving shoes. The Aquas have a removable insole reducing thickness from 5 to 3mm. Actual driving shoes today are quite limited and not great as far as I could find. Pumas are too narrow and stupid Sparco discontinued the only good ones. Race shoes are a different story but expensive and weird looking.
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# ? Aug 13, 2011 21:21 |
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Lowclock posted:I wish they made driving shoes that looked like normal shoes. Too bad puma driving shoes seem to be made of cardboard. They lasted like 6 months. My pilotis lasted 3 years and I think I wore them more.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 01:02 |
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I've been watching craigslist and an STi muffler finally popped up, they also happen to have an STi intercooler up for grabs as well. Is the intercooler worth it as part of going to stage 2 or not really worth it until other nebulous future-type things have been done. Edit: Any use for an STi stock BOV? I don't think so, but may as well ask. toplitzin fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Aug 14, 2011 |
# ? Aug 14, 2011 16:36 |
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You can grab the IC if it's $200 or less. It's not necessary until you go to a bigger turbo but who knows what the future holds:D
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 17:28 |
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$225 for the Intercooler, couplings and Y-Pipe. $250 if I want the BOV too.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 17:35 |
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Eh, that's a normal price. I'd skip until (if) you decide to go to a bigger turbo.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 18:24 |
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eBay intercoolers are bigger and cheaper than that.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 21:15 |
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I think I figured out why my car is throwing a knock sensor code! New one on order.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 21:30 |
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Lord Gaga posted:eBay intercoolers are bigger and cheaper than that. ebay intercoolers don't intercool for poo poo.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 21:59 |
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jamal posted:ebay intercoolers don't intercool for poo poo. Yeah. Also if you're gonna get an STi intercooler you'll need an STi splitter (modified for your stock scoop). So yeah I vote no.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 22:28 |
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jamal posted:ebay intercoolers don't intercool for poo poo. Really? Theyre huge by comparison I am surprised to hear that.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 22:31 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:
Unless you're hitting 50mph on course, I don't think changing swaybars will make a huge dynamic difference.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 22:32 |
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here's a Garrett intercooler core: Here's an e-bay core: So just from the picture you can see why the crappy core will hardly provide any cooling to the charge air. And here's an ETS Subaru top mount: jamal fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Aug 14, 2011 |
# ? Aug 14, 2011 22:37 |
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kimbo305 posted:Unless you're hitting 50mph on course, I don't think changing swaybars will make a huge dynamic difference.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 22:56 |
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Jamal, do you think it's worth upgrading the intercooler on a 3rd gen wrx? I've got reinforcements on the plastic endtanks of the stock IC now, and the car won't ever see more than 20 psi on the stock turbo. On the other hand, the stock IC sucks in the summer and Perrin top mounts are only $600.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 23:08 |
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Yeah, I doubt it. If I can hit 50mph in a gravel parking lot with this thing, I might have a future in the WRC. They make a huge difference in autocross on tarmac, so I figured if I could find a set of sways from someone's crashed JDM WRX, I'd be golden. I'll just save my profiting-from-disaster budget for things that matter more. I dont even run swaybars on the front for dirt. It's approx 2 secs a km faster.
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# ? Aug 14, 2011 23:38 |
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# ? May 17, 2024 13:56 |
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blargle posted:Jamal, do you think it's worth upgrading the intercooler on a 3rd gen wrx? I've got reinforcements on the plastic endtanks of the stock IC now, and the car won't ever see more than 20 psi on the stock turbo. On the other hand, the stock IC sucks in the summer and Perrin top mounts are only $600. The perrin ic is nice and will work with any of the stock location upgrades out there. Blouch LGT-480 for example.
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# ? Aug 15, 2011 00:43 |