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eddiewalker posted:I just shuttled through it without sound. Either way, it needs to be cleaned, even if just sprayed down from the outside. Mine gets almost stuccoed shut with mud and cotton. I agree with you there, washing the coil from outside in is something we recommend our clients do at least 3 times a year, then when we come out for our annual clean-up we spray from inside out and shop-vac the debris out from the inside. Another important thing for you go getters that pull the top off. Make sure before you put the top back on that the weep holes in the base of the unit are clear. They get plugged constantly from dirt, leaves, twigs and whatever else is in there making it so water can't flow out the way it should.
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Aug 11, 2011 00:42
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Jaweeeblop posted:That guy has zero idea what he is talking about, and only half an idea of what he is doing. You are not cleaning your compressor, that is a condenser. Those aren't cooling fins, that is a coil. If you choose to pop the top off, it is a good idea not to crimp the wires as he mentioned, but that doesn't mean just slam the fan blades/motor into the side of the unit. If you choose to go that route you should pull the motor and blades out and then turn the whole thing over so that it is resting on the grate. Bending your fan blades or the motor shaft is going to cause expensive problems. "You see the CRT is only a piece of the whole monitor unit, therefore you are wrong to call this a CRT." 
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Aug 11, 2011 02:50
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peepsalot posted:do you rage when someone refers to an old monitor as a CRT? No, I only rage against idiots that are trying to make informational videos while having absolutely no information and offering ideas that could potentially damage your equipment leading to costly repairs. Also those aren't cooling fins, so yes I have a problem with calling them something they aren't? Edit: Man, after re-reading my posts I need to stop posting after working 13 hours shifts. I'm getting needlessly annoyed and well... pedantic over what amounts to nothing. I stand by what I said, though, dude shouldn't make informational videos unless he knows what he's talking about. Jaweeeblop fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Aug 11, 2011 |
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Aug 11, 2011 03:34
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This is a public information video, for folks who don't know crap about A/C. For this audience, his basic technique is correct: remove the cover, spray from the inside out. This reminds me I have to check mine - installed it a year ago.
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Aug 11, 2011 14:42
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Not strictly related to hobbies, but there's some insanely loud (constant drilling and hammering) on the wall directly next to ours, during the day, and I was wondering...what kind of noise-canceling headphones are recommended, or earplugs, or whatever? What's good for this sort of thing?
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Aug 11, 2011 15:01
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Honestly noise-canceling headphones are just going to get rid of hums, drones, and other constant noises. Impulses like hammering and whatnot are something that gun-range muffs like these: http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=160677 Even so you'll still hear it, it will just trail off. Best bet is well-fitting ear plugs.
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Aug 11, 2011 15:11
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I have a plumbing question and this seems like it may be the best thread: I hope this isn't a stupid question, ha. This morning I went to take a shower. I turned off the shower knob (as my roommate leaves it on for whatever reason) and turned on the hot and cold knobs. I then turned the shower knob back on and instead of the shower starting I heard a kind of muddy whirring noise and all water shut off. No water from the bath spout and certainly none from the shower. When I turn the shower knob off, the bath turns back on. Any ideas what the problem could be? I'm fairly plumbing illiterate, so to speak, so any help would be appreciated.
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Aug 11, 2011 19:50
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Matt Cruea posted:I have a plumbing question and this seems like it may be the best thread: We do have a plumbing thread... You either have a clogged shower head, a problem with your shower diverter cartridge, or a clog in the shower head pipe. My bet would be the cartridge.
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Aug 11, 2011 20:40
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kid sinister posted:We do have a plumbing thread... Wow, I feel dumb. I'll post this there. Thanks. I'll also look into what you mentioned, though... I have no idea what a diverter cartridge is!
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Aug 11, 2011 21:04
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PainterofCrap posted:This is a public information video, for folks who don't know crap about A/C. For this audience, his basic technique is correct: remove the cover, spray from the inside out. Yesterday was a bad day, like I said I was mentally fried from work and shouldn't have been posting about work related stuff. I spend all day having people tell me they need more anti-freeze (freon) in their system, or the battery is bad (capacitor), or the furnace fan isn't spinning (condenser fan). I spend all day listening to people use wrong terminology and it doesn't faze me, for reasons I don't know that guy just really set me off. He has the right idea, just don't be as rough with the motor and fan blades as he was and you're good to go.
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Aug 12, 2011 00:34
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Jaweeeblop posted:anti-freeze (freon) Hmm I hate to even ask considering what you just posted but dont HVAC systems use refrigerants like r-134a nowadays? I know cars do, maybe household systems are different. Jaweeeblop posted:battery is bad (capacitor) Oh and to make matters worse, a capacitor can also be correctly (though somewhat archaically) referred to as a condenser (because they condense charge). Although in automotive ignition systems the capacitor is actually legitimately referred to as a condenser (ie points and condenser). And we all know condensers are a completely unrelated part of HVAC systems. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 01:05 on Aug 12, 2011 |
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Aug 12, 2011 01:01
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Cosmik Debris posted:Hmm I hate to even ask considering what you just posted but dont HVAC systems use refrigerants like r-134a nowadays? I know cars do, maybe household systems are different. The most common refrigerants I see are R-22 in older systems and R-410A in newer systems. R-22 is being phased out because it is pretty bad for the environment, so 410A will become more popular for awhile until the next big thing comes along. I don't think I've seen R-134A used anywhere outside of cars and cans of air duster. The gauges I use everyday for checking freon levels are capable of reading R-22, R-410A, and R-134A but I've honestly never had to do a 134A reading. Also don't let my anger from yesterday put you off from asking questions. You can use as many wrong words as you want, as long as I understand what you're getting at I'll try and answer anything I can that's HVAC related. I just really like making bad first impressions on new groups of people. How did I do last night? Jaweeeblop fucked around with this message at 01:53 on Aug 12, 2011 |
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Aug 12, 2011 01:21
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We have a square halogen light on the back of our house and I want to change the glass from clear to yellow so I don't attract bugs. I expected there to be ready made products for this but I couldn't find any so I'm heading over to the glass place tomorrow. If they don't have yellow glass, what else can I use that would withstand heat from the halogen bulb?
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Aug 12, 2011 09:30
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I have a white wooden door that my dad already painted and finished and whatnot (I think, looked pretty good). I used it as a beer pong table the other night, and now there's tons of greyish water stains and rings on the wood along with some blue highlighter on there as a result. Is there any way I could remove these stains without refinishing/repainting the door itself? Is Goof Off a good cleaner to use in this situation? I already tried rubbing it down with a moist lysol wipe or some poo poo and some pledge later on but to no avail. Yeah i'm clueless on how to clean this stuff. If a picture is needed, I can get one tonight. Cromlech fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Aug 13, 2011 |
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Aug 13, 2011 15:54
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I'm trying to figure out some cheap ways to get or make stained glass for a fountain I'm making. The glass will be cut into pieces and will be in contact with water for long periods of time, most likely on both sides. I don't need a huge variety of colors, but I predict needing green, blue, yellow, and maybe orange. So far, I've found this solution, but I want to know what any alternatives might be. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing?
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Aug 13, 2011 16:21
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neogeo0823 posted:I'm trying to figure out some cheap ways to get or make stained glass for a fountain I'm making. The glass will be cut into pieces and will be in contact with water for long periods of time, most likely on both sides. I don't need a huge variety of colors, but I predict needing green, blue, yellow, and maybe orange. So far, I've found this solution, but I want to know what any alternatives might be. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? Bingo, you got it. The best way to fake stained glass is use paint it. You need to use glass paint, regular paint won't stick as well to glass. They also make stick on vinyl for fake stained glass, but that would fade quickly outdoors and you're limited to finding a preexisting pattern you like.
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Aug 13, 2011 18:00
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Cromlech posted:I have a white wooden door that my dad already painted and finished and whatnot (I think, looked pretty good). I used it as a beer pong table the other night, and now there's tons of greyish water stains and rings on the wood along with some blue highlighter on there as a result. Is there any way I could remove these stains without refinishing/repainting the door itself? Is Goof Off a good cleaner to use in this situation? I already tried rubbing it down with a moist lysol wipe or some poo poo and some pledge later on but to no avail. Yeah i'm clueless on how to clean this stuff. Magic Erasers. They'll very lightly sand the stains out.
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Aug 13, 2011 21:03
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wormil posted:We have a square halogen light on the back of our house and I want to change the glass from clear to yellow so I don't attract bugs. I expected there to be ready made products for this but I couldn't find any so I'm heading over to the glass place tomorrow. If they don't have yellow glass, what else can I use that would withstand heat from the halogen bulb? A lighting Gel for stage lights maybe? It comes in sheets. stage lights get pretty hot so I think it could stand up to a household halogen.
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Aug 13, 2011 22:20
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Thumposaurus posted:A lighting Gel for stage lights maybe? This looks perfect and there is a distributor nearby, I'll call them on Monday.
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Aug 13, 2011 23:24
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kid sinister posted:Bingo, you got it. The best way to fake stained glass is use paint it. You need to use glass paint, regular paint won't stick as well to glass. They also make stick on vinyl for fake stained glass, but that would fade quickly outdoors and you're limited to finding a preexisting pattern you like. I'll paint it then. Also, I need to figure out the best way to attach the pieces of glass together. I wanted to have them loosely connected with wires or straps so that there's space between the pieces for water to drip. My current idea is to carefully drill small holes in the corners and tie them together with something. I just have to figure out a decent material to use that doesn't break down in water.
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Aug 14, 2011 18:07
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Does anyone make a resealable epoxy tube or reasonably-priced individual epoxy packets? I just need a little for a repair job but don't feel like buying a tube that will dry up / not be usable next time I need some.
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Aug 14, 2011 20:50
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Hed posted:Does anyone make a resealable epoxy tube or reasonably-priced individual epoxy packets? I just need a little for a repair job but don't feel like buying a tube that will dry up / not be usable next time I need some. There are small tubes of two part epoxy that are resealable. They look like this: 
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Aug 14, 2011 21:40
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neogeo0823 posted:I'll paint it then. Also, I need to figure out the best way to attach the pieces of glass together. I wanted to have them loosely connected with wires or straps so that there's space between the pieces for water to drip. My current idea is to carefully drill small holes in the corners and tie them together with something. I just have to figure out a decent material to use that doesn't break down in water. FYI, they make special bits for drilling glass. Try an art store. Also, I would drill your glass BEFORE you paint it since that will be when you will most likely break or crack the pieces. For a connecting material, just use some aluminum wire.
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Aug 14, 2011 22:53
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Just make proper stained glass. My aunt and friend did it, so I think a DIY minded person could pick it up without a problem.
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Aug 14, 2011 23:15
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sund posted:Just make proper stained glass. My aunt and friend did it, so I think a DIY minded person could pick it up without a problem. What's the recommended method for doing so? Would it be more water proof than painting it? I have a fairly low budget for this project, but I'd also like to get a nice, antique-ish look for it, so it's gonna come down to which is a better bang for the buck. EDIT: Never mind. Looked up the process of making stained glass. Don't have a kiln, oven's probably not a good place to try to fire glass, don't want to deal with lead dust and other fine particulates... yeah... neogeo0823 fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Aug 15, 2011 |
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Aug 15, 2011 00:17
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Holy beans, what? No, you went too far down the rabbit hole. Just buy colored glass (the stuff they sell for making stained glass projects) a glasscutting tool (tool is maybe $10) and glassworking solder. If you can't figure out where to buy the supplies, contact your local Girl Scouts.
Splizwarf fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Aug 15, 2011 |
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Aug 15, 2011 04:05
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Splizwarf posted:Holy beans, what? No, you went too far down the rabbit hole. Just buy colored glass (the stuff they sell for making stained glass projects) a glasscutting tool (tool is maybe $10) and glassworking solder. If you can't figure out where to buy the supplies, contact your local Girl Scouts. Yeah, went looking around and found a good looking place for supplies. I'll have to check them out when I get paid next.
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Aug 15, 2011 15:42
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Would a motor from a sewing machine be strong enough to power a small potter's wheel? I figured it'd be convenient because it'd already be wired for using a foot pedal.
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Aug 15, 2011 19:05
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hayden. posted:Would a motor from a sewing machine be strong enough to power a small potter's wheel? I figured it'd be convenient because it'd already be wired for using a foot pedal. I could see that working if you used a belt drive to slow it down some. Sewing machine motors turn really drat fast.
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Aug 15, 2011 21:13
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hayden. posted:Would a motor from a sewing machine be strong enough to power a small potter's wheel? I figured it'd be convenient because it'd already be wired for using a foot pedal. I highly doubt it. Sewing machines have almost no torque, it's all speed. When you drag your hands on the clay it would bog it down. If you have access to a sump pump motor they're about a 1/3 horsepower and should be plenty. That's about the biggest motor you can run off 120 volts. If you need to re-wire it use a modern dimmer switch. They use pulse-width modulation which is an efficient way to control the speed of a motor. And aren't most pottery wheels foot powered?
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Aug 16, 2011 00:17
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Cosmik Debris posted:a sump pump motor they're about a 1/3 horsepower and should be plenty. That's about the biggest motor you can run off 120 volts. That's not even close at all. You can get 120V garbage disposals up to 1 HP. BlendTec makes 120V blenders at 1.56kW, that's a little over 2 HP.
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Aug 16, 2011 19:24
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I've also been reading online that a dimmer switch doesn't really work with many types of motors and it's hard to find reliable info on what it would work with. A 1/3HP motor seems like it'd be overkill (all it has to do is turn a small round table with a few pounds of clay on it and minimal resistance). I'd rather it be smaller if it meant it was quieter. Many pottery wheels are foot powered but I wanted something small and easy to move that can be used indoors. hayden. fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Aug 16, 2011 |
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Aug 16, 2011 20:53
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kid sinister posted:That's not even close at all. You can get 120V garbage disposals up to 1 HP. BlendTec makes 120V blenders at 1.56kW, that's a little over 2 HP. 1/3 horsepower sump pump motors are about the biggest motor commonly running off 120 V (and by commonly I mean you can go to any hardware store and get one or that most people would have one). A horsepower is 745 Watts. 20 Amps x 120 V is 2400 W. 2400/745 is 3.2 horsepower. So 3.2 horsepower is the biggest you can theoretically run on a 20 Amp, 120 V circuit with nothing else on it. BUT they don't make a lot of 120 V electric motors that big because they want motors to be low current and high voltage because as you know current is what burns up your wires, so they can put smaller copper wires (read: make them more cheaply) by upping the voltage and lowering the current. I'm sure there are examples of 120 V motors that are specialized for use in the kitchen where you would have 120 V. But most 120 V large electric motors are going to be 1/3 horsepower, and you can get 1/2 horsepower but they're expensive. 1.56 KW is 13 amps. The vast majority of circuits in your house are going to be 20 Amps. So assuming your kitchen is on one circuit that blender leaves you just seven amps to run your refrigerator, lights, radio, television, toaster, etc, and that blender probably costs well over 100 dollars. I was being practical is all. Though you are techincally correct (the best kind of correct) http://www.mpja.com/prodinfo.asp?number=18327+TL here's a $25 speed controller that will work for a 1/3 horsepower sump pump motor. e: If you had more information about the motor you want to use it would help alot. I dont' really know what 'sewing machine motor' means. The type of sewing machine also matters. Industrial sewing machines have much larger motors to accommodate thick denim and leather. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Aug 16, 2011 |
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Aug 16, 2011 21:06
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Just look at commercial pottery wheels to see what size motor they use and that should give you an idea of what you need. (fake edit: 1/4 & 1/3 HP seem to be common) You could always try the sewing machine motor and if it burns up then you'll know it was too small. Used 1/2 HP washing machine motors are common and inexpensive. It would be overkill but cheap. Another source for cheap motors are HVAC repair companies who generally just recycle them. Pottery wheels seem like something that would lend themselves to DIY efforts considering that good ones are expensive.
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Aug 16, 2011 22:56
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Cosmik Debris posted:e: I don't really care about the motor, the quieter the better. Sumps cost like $50 on amazon and I could just buy one of those and take it apart for the motor. Or there's this: http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Centrifugal-Water-Pump-Garden/dp/B000CKFAZS/ref=sr_1_27?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1313538427&sr=1-27 but that may be one of those that require water for cooling
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Aug 17, 2011 00:50
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The flush valve in one of my toilets is leaking because the flapper doesn't quite cover the top of the valve, which results in an annoying gurgle as it constantly drains and refills at a slow rate. The flapper doesn't seem replaceable, and changing the whole valve would be overkill. Does anyone know any home remedies for closing the very narrow (less than 1mm) gap between the flapper and valve opening? My plumbing experience is limited to replacing a bathtub faucet.
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Aug 17, 2011 11:31
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Slap some waterproof epoxy on it, JB Weld makes one called Waterweld.
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Aug 17, 2011 11:42
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I am trying to strip apart the chrome and porcelain off an vintage stove to have it refinished. It was pretty easy to disassembly most of it, except for one thing. It is similar to this: http://retrorenovation.com/2009/08/13/stephanies-vintage-okeefe-and-merritt-stove/ The piece I am dealing with is that foldable stove cover. My model has two chrome knobs that pull in and out to lock the cover into different positions. It mounts through the frame into something springy on the inside. I can't figure out how to get the drat chrome bit off. They are looking a little bad so I wanted to add them to the things to get some more chrome. I've attached an image, but it's real hard to see what's going on. If anybody replies for some more information about something to help figure this out, then I'll try in earnest to get a picture that way. It doesn't appear to be screwed in--with screws or bolts at least. I can't seem to just twist it off, but it could be caked on. Generally I'm at a spot where all I can think of doing is muscling twisting it off, but I get reluctant there since I could break it. Edit: Guess I can't upload a file: Edit: Guess I can upload one file, but here's another image: Note that the second one shows it crooked. The apparatus inside now swings kind of feely after disconnecting it from the frame otherwise. Do not be alarmed... 
Rocko Bonaparte fucked around with this message at 14:47 on Aug 17, 2011 |
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Aug 17, 2011 14:40
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Trying to insulate around a wall heater in an old house. Backstory: remodeling a room where there is nothing between siding and studs. I will be reinstalling siding next year when I'll have the money. For now I'm putting half inch foam board inbetween studs, vapor barrior, then insulation. Although wall heater is hottest in front, I don't want foam behind it. I was told to use hardibacker but not sure how. Question: am I just putting a section of hardibacker in place of foam against siding and am I sealing it with something like caulk? I'm.assuming no vapor barrior either since plastic is just as bad as foam.
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Aug 17, 2011 15:19
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How can I tell if a wall is load bearing? I'm thinking about taking down a wall on the second floor, because the bedroom that it creates is pretty tiny. Removing this L-shaped wall would create 3 usable bedrooms, and upstairs den/rec room area. Here's a rough sketch of what the floor plan looks like: (Not to scale, a twin bed barely fits in the L-shaped room) I want to remove the wall marked in red. How do I tell if it is load bearing? This is on the second floor, below this is entirely open with no interior walls. The room on the first floor below this is 24'X20', and has no interior walls or columns. On the first floor, from the stairs forward is entirely open. I'd assume that because there aren't any walls below this on the first floor, that this wall is not load bearing, but I'm going to make certain before I do anything. House was built in 1900, and was remodeled at some point, all walls are drywall.
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Aug 17, 2011 15:56
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