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I don't have a volt meter, can I just get one at radio shack and do it? I don't know how to test volts so eh, I can learn. I replaced the brake light switch just now actually, and the same problem persists.
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Aug 6, 2011 22:57
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In the next few weeks I'll be getting rid of my dad's old 1999 saturn and buying a new car. I'm looking at the new 2012 golf, gas model (since I don't have the extra 4k for the TDI). I got a price quote from AAA and called a few dealers--and one of them offered me a new golf below invoice right off the bat. (2012 gas 4-door auto w/sunroof, convenience package, touch-screen satellite radio, etc. for 22,249; about $250 below invoice). Should I be worried? I'm going to check out the car on Monday and give it a test drive, but the other dealers I were talking to wouldn't go below 22.5 for the same model (and that was after some haggling). Can you think of anything I should look out for when I go look at the car, or any reason that they'd quote so low from the very beginning?
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Aug 7, 2011 02:11
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Gix posted:
Because it was damaged coming off the truck? On the lot? They have to disclose that. If not, who cares? It's a new car and its under warranty.
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Aug 7, 2011 03:11
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Not an Anthem posted:I don't have a volt meter, can I just get one at radio shack and do it? I don't know how to test volts so eh, I can learn. Go ahead and buy a cheap volt meter - they're really handy to have around the house. If you haven't had a look at the bulb sockets yet that's where I'd go next - it's easy and takes only a few minutes to check for arcing soot or corrosion.
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Aug 7, 2011 04:12
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Is there an online manual for how to take the rear brake light covers off or whatever, in the case of the third brake light I had googled a pictorial blog on how to do it, same with the running lights. Her manual in the car doesn't describe any sort of repairs. Thanks for the help, I'll look into a cheap but functional volt meter. edit- I guess another good question is if I do find crud everywhere, would a simple careful wash fix the problem? Not an Anthem fucked around with this message at 08:53 on Aug 7, 2011 |
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Aug 7, 2011 04:17
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Well this is just great. I just picked up a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TFSI and there is no key for the detachable towhitch (clarification - the towbar for puling my car trailer). How do I remove it? And how do I get a new key for it?
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Aug 7, 2011 17:02
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Acknot posted:Well this is just great. I just picked up a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TFSI and there is no key for the detachable towhitch (clarification - the towbar for puling my car trailer). Are you saying you have a lockable draw pin (so people can't steal the hitch)? If so, that's tho stock. If you find the manufacturer on it you could call them and see if their keys are universal, or if they can get you another. Or you can do the easy thing and just stop by a welding shop and slip somebody $10 to cut it off and then go get a new one.
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Aug 7, 2011 17:28
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There are good suggestions, but where do I cut in order to be able to replace it? Looke like the locking mechanism has a sliding piston. If I cut the hitch itself, how do I remove the stub that's left on the car?
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Aug 7, 2011 18:07
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Acknot posted:There are good suggestions, but where do I cut in order to be able to replace it? Looke like the locking mechanism has a sliding piston. If I cut the hitch itself, how do I remove the stub that's left on the car? Not sure what style you have....can you grab a picture of it? Most I've seen are just bent at one end, and have a notch for the lock to engage with on the other. If you cut either end off of those, it will just slide through. I can't imagine that there would be anything keeping it from sliding through inside on yours either, as putting any sort of mechanism through that pin is just going to serve to weaken it.
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Aug 7, 2011 19:04
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How dumb would I have to be to buy a 1990 Audi coupe quattro? Especially say, one with 200k miles, and mismatched panels? Asking price is 1200$, I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow regardless.
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Aug 8, 2011 03:14
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Frank Dillinger posted:How dumb would I have to be to buy a 1990 Audi coupe quattro? Especially say, one with 200k miles, and mismatched panels? Asking price is 1200$, I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow regardless. If you don't do your own work or aren't independently wealthy? Pretty stupid. On the other hand, if you have or are willing to acquire some tools, have a place to work, and are interested in learning it could be goddamn magical.
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Aug 8, 2011 03:21
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Frank Dillinger posted:How dumb would I have to be to buy a 1990 Audi coupe quattro? Especially say, one with 200k miles, and mismatched panels? Asking price is 1200$, I'm going to have a look at it tomorrow regardless. I loved mine, if it had more power, I'd still have it. That said, I owned one about 15 years ago and I'm sure age has not been kind. Hell, they were... problematic... back then. Check all the switches controlling electrical items. All of them. Window switches in particular were prone to failure. The window regulators in the doors were made with plastic pulleys that break, requiring regulator replacement. Most of the body parts are coupe-specific. The stock Speedline wheels were terrible when new (corrosion under the clearcoat getting to the point that they will leak air). Other than that, it's like a regular early-'90s Audi 80/90. But they are damned fun, especially in the snow. And the 10v/20v turbo motors are pretty straightfoward swaps, search for "ersatz S2" and you'll drool.
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Aug 8, 2011 20:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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Well, I have a heated garage to work in, and basic tools, I think I'm just looking for an excuse to buy more tools and such. I have a decent mechanical aptitude, but the only thing really giving me worry is that parts might be hard to find, especially electronics stuff, and even moreso coupe specific parts.
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Aug 8, 2011 20:51
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Not an Anthem posted:Is there an online manual for how to take the rear brake light covers off or whatever, in the case of the third brake light I had googled a pictorial blog on how to do it, same with the running lights. You mean the taillight lenses? Open the trunk and look for a circular access panel (1 per side obviously). Pry that out, and stick your hand in the resulting hole and spin off the big plastic star nut. Takes approximately 5000 turns and your hand will cramp up/fall asleep. Then the taillight housing will swing out as if the outside edge were the hinge (ie pull/pry from the center of the car). Usually it's stuck on pretty good with road grime so I always take a small flathead screwdriver and stick it in the seam where the fender meets the bumper and gently pry it up enough to get some fingers under it. But the axis the lens swings on is not the same as the seam; it's horizontal. gently caress this description is pretty confusing. Anyway, the first time you do it it takes 3 hours. The second time takes 30 seconds.
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Aug 8, 2011 21:10
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Frank Dillinger posted:Well, I have a heated garage to work in, and basic tools, I think I'm just looking for an excuse to buy more tools and such. I have a decent mechanical aptitude, but the only thing really giving me worry is that parts might be hard to find, especially electronics stuff, and even moreso coupe specific parts. That's just the way it works...sometimes it takes a while to get parts. Sometimes you pay way to much when you are impatient/desperate. With the attitude you have about looking for excuses to buy tools and if you have something else to drive, even if it's just a beater you'll be fine. Find the model specific forums for those things and get to know the guys who have parts cars. Figure out where you get parts you need new cheap (Pelican Parts will probably be on that list). Accept that it won't always be pretty, and won't always run, and that you might need to wait on parts for a while and drive something else. If you can do all of those things, as well as pay attention to details, sounds, and smells, you will likely be happy and never left waiting for a tow truck. I'm doing all of those things to daily drive a 25 year old sports car. I have better/newer/more expensive cars to choose from. But I consider them backups, because that's just what I want to be driving.
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Aug 8, 2011 21:52
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Bolkovr posted:You mean the taillight lenses? Open the trunk and look for a circular access panel (1 per side obviously). Pry that out, and stick your hand in the resulting hole and spin off the big plastic star nut. Takes approximately 5000 turns and your hand will cramp up/fall asleep. Then the taillight housing will swing out as if the outside edge were the hinge (ie pull/pry from the center of the car). Usually it's stuck on pretty good with road grime so I always take a small flathead screwdriver and stick it in the seam where the fender meets the bumper and gently pry it up enough to get some fingers under it. But the axis the lens swings on is not the same as the seam; it's horizontal. gently caress this description is pretty confusing. Anyway, the first time you do it it takes 3 hours. The second time takes 30 seconds. To add to this, each tail light lens has a little metal spring on the edge nearest to the trunk that helps keeep it secure.
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Aug 8, 2011 23:09
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So for a layman, what's the big separating factor between the GTI and the R? I read something about them not offering the DSG on the American R, so will it really offer anything different aside from increased amounts of go-fast? I ask because my dad traded in his early 2000s Acura RSX-S for a 2012 GTI, and while I'm mad jealous, I'm curious as to what he missed out on by not waiting for the R. He didn't want the DSG even if they offered it, anyway, so that wouldn't have been a big selling point for him.
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Aug 9, 2011 10:23
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Philip Rivers posted:So for a layman, what's the big separating factor between the GTI and the R? I read something about them not offering the DSG on the American R, so will it really offer anything different aside from increased amounts of go-fast? "fake" AWD, 50hp, a body kit on top of a loaded GTI. At launch you better expect dealerships to be gauging on this one. bowling 4 buttcoins fucked around with this message at 10:31 on Aug 9, 2011 |
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Aug 9, 2011 10:28
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Philip Rivers posted:So for a layman, what's the big separating factor between the GTI and the R? I read something about them not offering the DSG on the American R, so will it really offer anything different aside from increased amounts of go-fast? I've driven the Euro-spec Golf R and it's a far faster and better handling car than the current GTI - enough that I consider it worth the extra cash. Having said that, I haven't driven a US-spec R yet so the jury is still out.
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Aug 9, 2011 12:58
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Bolkovr posted:You mean the taillight lenses? Open the trunk and look for a circular access panel (1 per side obviously). Pry that out, and stick your hand in the resulting hole and spin off the big plastic star nut. Takes approximately 5000 turns and your hand will cramp up/fall asleep. Then the taillight housing will swing out as if the outside edge were the hinge (ie pull/pry from the center of the car). Usually it's stuck on pretty good with road grime so I always take a small flathead screwdriver and stick it in the seam where the fender meets the bumper and gently pry it up enough to get some fingers under it. But the axis the lens swings on is not the same as the seam; it's horizontal. gently caress this description is pretty confusing. Anyway, the first time you do it it takes 3 hours. The second time takes 30 seconds. my1999gsr posted:To add to this, each tail light lens has a little metal spring on the edge nearest to the trunk that helps keeep it secure. Thanks- I'll be getting a multimeter, what exactly do I clean for corrosion, or do I have to replace wiring?
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Aug 9, 2011 16:34
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Gix posted:In the next few weeks I'll be getting rid of my dad's old 1999 saturn and buying a new car. I'm looking at the new 2012 golf, gas model (since I don't have the extra 4k for the TDI). I got a price quote from AAA and called a few dealers--and one of them offered me a new golf below invoice right off the bat. (2012 gas 4-door auto w/sunroof, convenience package, touch-screen satellite radio, etc. for 22,249; about $250 below invoice). I got a 2011 TDI for 500 below invoice. Don't worry, sometimes it may be good for the dealer to sell a car below invoice. Also, without the sunroof, a TDI costs only 2.5K more. For the 2.5K you get bigger alloy wheels, an arm rest in between the front seats (take note of that when you go to the dealer), and of course the TDI engine.
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Aug 9, 2011 18:26
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Not an Anthem posted:Thanks- I'll be getting a multimeter, what exactly do I clean for corrosion, or do I have to replace wiring? Look for puffy greenish-white dust anywhere there's exposed metal involved in the wiring. You might also see some black scorch marks inside the sockets where the tail/brake light bulbs go too. We use a chemical cleaner for wiring corrosion but if you Google "removing green death" you should find some solutions for the DIY.
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Aug 9, 2011 19:58
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my1999gsr posted:Look for puffy greenish-white dust anywhere there's exposed metal involved in the wiring. You might also see some black scorch marks inside the sockets where the tail/brake light bulbs go too. We use a chemical cleaner for wiring corrosion but if you Google "removing green death" you should find some solutions for the DIY. Most say olive oil, goo gone or other acidic solutions I don't have. Thanks.
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Aug 9, 2011 20:15
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Not an Anthem posted:Most say olive oil, goo gone or other acidic solutions I don't have. Thanks. I always use this stuff from Radio Shack, with a little fine sandpaper to cut through the oxidation.
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Aug 9, 2011 21:44
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Is there anything in particular I should know about '09-10 Tiguans? I'm assuming that it's just a taller Golf.
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Aug 14, 2011 22:10
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I'm looking for a car very soon (I'm driving a rental ATM and I think my company can provide me a car for a short duration) and have been looking around for sports compacts, hatchbacks, something along those lines. Looking around, I've really seen the GTI as a decent choice, but I'd like to get some other opinions.
My main concern is that the GTI seems somewhat expensive (especially with some options tacked on) and I could probably get a much cheaper sedan that I probably wouldn't complain about. I looked at the TDI and Golf as well - is the GTI worth the premium over the Golf, at least? totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Aug 14, 2011 |
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Aug 14, 2011 22:43
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meatpimp posted:Is there anything in particular I should know about '09-10 Tiguans? I'm assuming that it's just a taller Golf. Overall they've been very solid much like the Golf they resemble.
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Aug 14, 2011 22:59
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totalnewbie posted:Prefer automatic because I've never driven a manual. I'm not adverse to learning to drive a manual but I'd rather it not be with this car. totalnewbie posted:Mostly city/suburban driving with occasional long-distance trips. totalnewbie posted:It will be snowy in the winter. totalnewbie posted:My main concern is that the GTI seems somewhat expensive (especially with some options tacked on) and I could probably get a much cheaper sedan that I probably wouldn't complain about. The only complaint I can think of is that I get a bit self-conscious of the suspension when I'm hauling people around on city streets. It's fine for when I'm alone in the car and doing whatever I want, but the stock suspension on the GTI does qualify as "firm".
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Aug 15, 2011 15:34
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totalnewbie posted:I'm looking for a car very soon (I'm driving a rental ATM and I think my company can provide me a car for a short duration) and have been looking around for sports compacts, hatchbacks, something along those lines. Looking around, I've really seen the GTI as a decent choice, but I'd like to get some other opinions. I just traded my 04.5 GLI in towards a golf TDI. There's actually more room for jamming poo poo in the car than in the larger sedan. I'm currently in a 07 jetta with the 2.0t and dsg, and my god is it a hungry pig. I -might- be getting 27mpg out of it. Definitely go with the manual option as the DSG is reaaaaaaly easy to gently caress up your gas mileage with as it likes to kick down relatively easy. The clutch in VWs works quite well in traffic. I drive 19 miles each way, with at least half of it in stop and go, and I'd never give up my clutch. As for snow, just get a good set of winter(studded if you get lots of snow) and you'll be fine. The traction control on these cars does what it's supposed to.
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Aug 15, 2011 21:31
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my1999gsr posted:Overall they've been very solid much like the Golf they resemble. Nice. I'm looking at a 35k mile '09. I haven't looked into the exact details, but I think it's due for a DSG fluid change? The DSG is the only thing I'm leery about. My brother has one in his GTI and my mom has one in her A3. The A3 needed a new mechatronic, under warranty of course, but drat, that's an expensive piece of hardware.
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Aug 15, 2011 21:41
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3 litre quattro TDI, with B&O sound system, Sat-Nav and bluetooth. But who cares, LED lights   and 
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Aug 15, 2011 21:46
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meatpimp posted:Nice. I'm looking at a 35k mile '09. I haven't looked into the exact details, but I think it's due for a DSG fluid change? The DSG is the only thing I'm leery about. My brother has one in his GTI and my mom has one in her A3. The A3 needed a new mechatronic, under warranty of course, but drat, that's an expensive piece of hardware. The DSG fluid change should be at 40k and it's going to be loving ridiculously expensive.
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Aug 15, 2011 21:49
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My 2.7T Tiptronic A6 had been having a rough time shifting. It would take a while to downshift, and when it did, it would be really rough. Trying to get going from a stop would be hard sometimes because the car would act as if it was in neutral and would take a second to get in gear. I figured it was a transmission fluid issue so I made an appointment with a local shop to get the fluid serviced. I was coming up my driveway the day before the appointment with the transmission in limp mode. It could barely make the incline and was making a high pitched grinding noise, when all of the sudden I heard a noise sort of like running over a glass bottle and the car turned off, pouring out smoke. I looked under the car and all of my transmission fluid was pouring onto the ground. The car starts but won't go into gear - duh, it doesn't have any transmission fluid. What does this sound like? I'm already in the process of pulling the engine with the tranny attached and have heard about the input shaft seal going out where the TC mates with the transmission. I've also heard it could be the ATF pump. Have you worked with anything like this in the past?
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Aug 15, 2011 22:48
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totalnewbie posted:My main concern is that the GTI seems somewhat expensive (especially with some options tacked on) and I could probably get a much cheaper sedan that I probably wouldn't complain about. Do you like to stomp on the accelerator and have a bit of extra fun because you can? That's very much what the GTI is about. If that's not you, you'd probably be better served by saving the money and going with the regular golf. If you don't want a manual, which you say you don't, then don't get one. The automatic on the regular golf is a regular automatic, but the DSG on the GTI is something special indeed. It's why I fell in love with the GTI, but it's very much something that either makes a huge difference to you (a fun automatic?) or an extra cost with no benefit.
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Aug 15, 2011 22:51
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Bovine Delight posted:The DSG fluid change should be at 40k and it's going to be loving ridiculously expensive. My dealer's price sheet says $350 USD. Could be worse I guess, but still kinda high for routine maintenance. That's on top of the $480 they charge for regular 40k stuff, yikes.
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Aug 16, 2011 00:40
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JHVH-1 posted:My dealer's price sheet says $350 USD. Could be worse I guess, but still kinda high for routine maintenance. That's on top of the $480 they charge for regular 40k stuff, yikes. Oh whats that, your 36k free maintenance just ended? Time to make it all back on the 40k service 
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Aug 16, 2011 01:45
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Aurium posted:Do you like to stomp on the accelerator and have a bit of extra fun because you can? That's very much what the GTI is about. If that's not you, you'd probably be better served by saving the money and going with the regular golf. Thanks a lot. That's exactly what I needed to hear. I foresee a Golf in my future.
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Aug 16, 2011 02:48
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Bovine Delight posted:Oh whats that, your 36k free maintenance just ended? Time to make it all back on the 40k service I was reading through the manual last night and at least the brake fluid flush is still free at 3 years if you are under 36k miles.
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Aug 16, 2011 16:00
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JHVH-1 posted:My dealer's price sheet says $350 USD. Could be worse I guess, but still kinda high for routine maintenance. That's on top of the $480 they charge for regular 40k stuff, yikes. Don't feel that bad; when the DSG first came out dealers were charing upwards of $800. I think I paid around $600 to have my DSG flush done in 2008.
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Aug 16, 2011 19:50
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I really wish the used market for VWs was more plentiful. It's impossible to find any used GTIs or Golfs around here with under 50,000 miles on them. I just want a VW Hatchback. 
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Aug 18, 2011 07:02
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